OK, back to the samples. And back to moi! Schilling notes:
Jujy, Are you sure that you were sniffing the new L'Interdit? I thought the new one was one of the cleanest and least aldehydic in the whole bunch, completely unrelated to the vintage L'Interdit? I'm pretty spineless when it comes to the dirty animalics and I thought that the vintage vial had some major funk, so much that I wondered if it had gone off.
Yes, indeed, there are two L'interdit
samples, vintage and 2003, and, yes, it was the vintage I sampled, and yes, it is the soapy/dirty/floral-meets-animal civet-laden aldehydic experience I crave. Is this truly past recapturing? Is it a change in ingredients, in tastes, or both?
I plan to get into bed with the Chanels this weekend and see what kind of a history lesson that will prove to be.
fwiw, I think the picture of the kid is photo-chopped beyond recognition, almost to the Uncanny Valley.- - - Updated - - -
All right then, here's the N° 5
Well, quelle f'n surprise, I loved the vintage 1950s extrait and found the others, while charming, not nearly as distinguishable form one another as they were as a group from the grand dame I favor.
March 9th, just after midnight: I dived in at the start with the two extraits, 1950s and the newer, albeit undated. To my left was the vintage, to my right, the newer, in each case I daubed onto wrist forearm and crook of arm. This from my written notes:
"Both are iconic and hard to subdivide into notes. 1950s has that dirt I crave. Current version is soapier with more sandalwood. Vintage has heliotropin.
...a few minutes later:
I reapply more lavishliy. Current version has something lilac-ish on 1st sniff and more muguet than vintage. Vintage has civet, heliotrope, anisic aldehydes and, yes, civet."
(redundancy as written, not without reason!)
So, this is Chanel. It is like Mozart; who doesn't love Mozart, recognize his work as singular, and yet I leave the house for Mahler, but not necessarily poor little Wolfgang A (fwiw, Mahler's last word was purported to be "Mozart.") I like my aldehydes even dirtier than vintage Chanel, and this the L'Interdit is still my favorite in the sample, an equal to Infini, Miss Dior, and Arpège, the last of which I consider closest to N° 5.
Later that afternoon: I decide to sniff all 6 on cotton balls in Ziploc® bags and write quick, spontaneous impressions. Here they are on the order sampled:
Eau PremierePepper and rose*
*later note: pepper ➡
spring ➡ printemps ➡
EDTanimal 1st/aldehyde 2nd in intensity
EDPsame as EDT but louder
Eau Sensuellepowdery animalic
current extraitmore of the EDP vibe
vintage extraitaldehydes are HUGE! Classic "perfumy" smell, ketonic
Later that evening:
I blind sniff the cotton balls that I carefully Ziploc®-ed away, setting them aside in order to identify later.
Here's what happened, posted in the order sniffed:
1. Refreshing and rosythat was Eau Premiere
2. slight chill in opening, rosy and animalcurrent extrait
3. good balance of chill beginning followed by animalic warmthEDP
4. classic. depth. cumin favorite
1950s Of. Course!
5. Grren, peppery. "Silk scarf" Eau Sensuelle
6. slightly rotten rose/jasmine, 2nd favoriteEDT
So, there you have it. My Chanel N° 5 experience. This is the mother of those bad girls I so love. Don't feel the need to add this to my wardrobe, if that's not too heretical. My advice is, go vintage or go home.