Originally Posted by Trebor
So, SoS, are you saying it's an orris prominent fragrance?
I'm giving Amouage this year to redeem themselves, after which I'll ignore this house just like all the others that went downhill after tasting some high-profile success...
An orris leather, predominantly, with a slight bitter green woody quality behind it, along with subdued fruits (I'll explain where I think they are coming from, below). Overall, if I had to put it into a two word category, I'd say floral leather.
The opening is just incredible. The grapefruit and elemi are noticeable but thanks to the already prominent orris and leather/suede note, they are incredibly round; the rendering of these notes is unlike anything I can think of at the moment. They only have the complete spotlight for a minute or two, but it is a grand introduction. A friend/fellow DIY perfumer once sent me the most incredible iris absolute; this was the stuff of legend. It had the clarity of Dior Homme's iris, the sweetness of the iris in Guerlinade, and some of the body and rootiness of the iris found in Iris Bleu Gris. Along with being ethereal and slightly powdery, it had a soft but noticeable raspberry note to it. The iris I smell in Beloved Man is the closest I've ever smelled to that legendary sample I had. And yes, there is a hint of raspberry in the first hour or so of Beloved Man. It's deftly integrated though, standing out far less than similar notes in other scents, and I believe most will probably not think 'oh yeah, raspberry!' unless they are looking for it, namely because it's an airy, almost transparent rendition of the note. Later on, the fruity aspects of jasmine absolute combine with some other notes and continue a red fruit impression. I'll elaborate more on that in the future as I'm still trying to figure out exactly what the note is/where it's coming from.
Regarding the opening, It's interesting how it is only after
the brief but luminescent opening of yellow and gold that the orange note moves to the fore. As I said before, it then moves into an orange/orris/leather phase, and the peridot green base slowly makes itself more known as time goes on. I get hints of tobacco (I think this is the saffron note at work), a bit of jasmine green tea, dried grass. This sits under the lightly powdered leather/orange/orris accord, and the juxtaposition of the two calls to mind Nasomatto's China White (and in some ways, probably thanks to the grapefruit/green combination, Invasion Barbare). There is even some overlap with China White in basic scent profile, but (and I just compared them both on paper earlier today to make sure) Beloved feels much more natural, round, and lively. If you ever wanted to describe to a non-scent oriented person what three dimensionality in a fragrance smells like, Beloved is the scent you'd want to show them.
If anything, Trebor, it's really unlike any other Amouage scent. It's got a bit of Caron DNA, and definitely some Guerlain DNA. Some Dior, perhaps, too? It's definitely a classical men's scent done in a modern way. The late base does have a faint resemblance to Tribute attar (not too surprising I suppose when you look at the note overlap) but it's much softer. Smoother. The whole scent is smooth. Very smooth. They did a good job of capturing the romantic element, while managing to avoid making it overtly sexy
. In that sense, it's character is something like a cross between Dior Homme (confident, slightly feminine, romantic and sexy) and Invasion Barbare (confident, masculine, not overtly sexy but almost seems to condense masculinity as a whole down into a fragrance, much the way Old Spice and Brut do).
So Trebor, I don't know that you'll like it, but I have no doubt that you will find it quite different than anything else by the house. I think you and I could both ID a new Amouage scent as being from Amouage if it continued along the trajectory of the mainline. I don't think most would immediately think Amouage if smelling Beloved blindly. I'm guessing many would think it's a new Guerlain from one of their exclusive lines.