Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

I would say that Guerlain Homme is not one of their best offerings but I still like it.

Hello, my friend, David -

I concur with your sentiments and realize that I will not like everything a house has to offer. It is like an argument in a relationship with someone you care so deeply about. Yet, in the end, you realize that you cannot change their mind...and they cannot change yours. So, sometimes, it is best to agree to disagree.

From an epic house like Guerlain, I am a purist and love the older/traditional/vintage bottlings the most. So, for me...Guerlain's closest associations for me will always be Vetiver, Habit Rouge, Heritage, and Eau de Cologne Imperiale (Shalimar, Mitsuoko, and L'Heure Bleue for women).

The recent releases by Guerlain, including Homme (and it various flankers) and even L'Instant don't feel "special" to me. While LIDGE is a competent fragrance, it doesn't capture any classicism for me - and it shouldn't. It is a contemporary scent of quality and very wearable - but it will never come before the hallmark scents.

Cheers.

ericrico

I personally think that L'Instant and it's eau de parfum merit mention in the same breath as the older more classic scents, (of which the absolute classic for me is Mouchoir de Monsieur). I don't think that's true of Guerlain Homme though. I've tried it a couple of times but I can't find anything to rate it above mediocre.

I like Homme, Homme Extreme, L'Eau Boisee and Habit Rouge Sport. These are not in the mould of the "usual" classic Guerlains but, IMO, departures from the perceived Guerlain path. I have learned the hard way not to approach frags with any expectation based on their (house) pedigree or provenance (except for quality, of course) but appreciate them on their own merit. The above frags smell good, IMO, but may disappoint some, not being olfactory homages to their classic forebears.

Haven't tried their female scents mentioned on this thread, but my opinion about Guerlain Homme would be somewhat like: OK, but they can do better.

Guerlain Homme is intended for the mass market. I am not sure it is even on display in the main Guerlain store in Paris (although I did not specifically look for it).

I share your sentiments, for the most part. Guerlain Homme is a rather generic smelling masculine intended to sell well. Jardins de Bagatelle is far too screechy and synthetic for me, although compared to Champs-Elysées it is not bad at all. Champs-Elysées is perhaps my least favorite Guerlain fragrance (I believe it was one of the first fragrances produced after the firm was purchased by LVMH). Idylle was Thierry Wasser's first fragrance for Guerlain; I never found it particularly compelling. It isn't terrible by any means, but it lacks that certain something that the classics share. The only fragrance that I think deserves another chance is La Petite Robe Noir. When I first tried it it didn't grab me, but I found myself revisiting it. A classic, sprawling, orchestral perfume it is not, but for a modern fruity-floral: not half bad!

I don't like any of those either. No worries, sometimes the 'new' Guerlain's just don't click with me.

That's okay since there are many 'new' Guerlains that I love (Shaghai, L' Heure de Nuit, etc...).

Agree with you that the classics are, or were pre-reformulation, on another planet. Special negative mention for the overexposed, synthetic Champs elysees. Luca Turin as usual hits the mark by suggesting that "it does well on the intended audience of trashy teens in Macau."

cacio

Hello martinijo -

Yes, I listed a few of the classics that I adore and MdM is also a wonderful classic. However, L'Instant and its EdP (while good) are of very solid construction, of which I strongly prefer the EdP (the EdT pales in comparison) - they cannot ever evoke similar emotions and the level of pure olfactory enjoyment that the classics offer.

To me, it shows the house is still competent in making new, more modern compositions that are of quality. They will, thankfully, continue to make profit - so the biggest "win" for me is that they will, hopefully, continue to make quality versions of the classics (as I happen to really adore the beauty in the latest bottle of Guerlain Vetiver - as it goes back to its 'roots' - pun intended).

Good stuff, yes. Not a full bottle purchase for me as of right now, but worthy. I would consider the EdP/Extreme bottling of L'Instant only. However, I respect your input and know that this is a very popular scent. Again, I like it and respect what the Guerlain house has put forth. I have comparative reviews of L'Instant (EdT) and the Extreme (EdP) bottling on Fragrantica, if you (or anyone) is curious about my perspective.

Cheers,

ericrico

Very fine! Thanks...

i agree with you on all of the above except La Petite Robe Noire...its quality fragrance, nicely done BUT the idea is not at all original, they stole it from Yohji pour homme!! its licquorice note in the opening and kept it as the centre of the composition! and i like it! its above average generic production! the Guerlain nose may be nice man but i find him as copy cat ....but he is smart about keeping his job there, making safe moves , noone will say Guerlain copies...will be the other way around! what he is doing is making bombastic , loud, sweet powdery scents everything is very sweet what he does

Don't agree with this - it strikes me as a sweeping generalisation. Have you worn all the releases created by Wasser since he joined Guerlain?

There are the more commercial releases that you can buy everywhere, the 'Guerlinade tributes' which could arguably be called sweet and powdery I suppose but that is the nature of that part of the house catalogue, and then there are the ones which do not reference anything in particular and each have quite a distinct personality. It's quite a varied portfolio for just a few years work. I don't like them all individually but I can see the intention and the particular demographic for each one and I don't see any one single perfumer who can match the versatility and the creativity required to encompass so much variation in such a relatively short space of time over the last five years or so.

How would you describe L'Abeille 2010, Songe d'un Bois d'Ete, Myrhhe et Delires, Encens Mythique d'Orient?

Guerlain Homme isn't bad, smells better than most, but I don't want to own it. LVMH restrained them for a long time, but they realize they have to give Guerlain more freedom. As Bertrand Duchaufour said, "....they need to get back to their roots". And as Thierry Wasser said, doing that is difficult with the current IFRA regulations the way they are.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete is excellent, though, and there will be many more.

I agree with you. Nothing wrong with your impressions.

I agree as well. I expected more out of GH as well.

I'm not fond of any of the fragrances you mention either with the exception of La Petite Robe Noire which while definitely not being my cup of tea, it's a terrific example of how it's still possible to release a mainstremish and youthful composition avoiding dullness...

Thanks Ericrico, I will have a look at your reviews.
My main point really was the difference in quality between Lidge (and Lidg for me) and Guerlain Homme. One being a high quality contemporary frag and the other not, in keeping with the thread title.

Guerlain Homme I'd see as the attempt to reach into the pockets of the modern, young man, perhaps to sell him some more classic Guerlains later on. It's not bad but if my small bottle ever was empty I'm not sure if I'd bother to replace it.

Guerlain Homme - for several reason, I think this fragrance would be nice if labelled as more mainstream label. its a good daily fragrance, or even introduction fragrance, for it smells better than most of other designer or celebrity brands if we talk about quality. We might expect Guerlain to be classic, but they give something that far apart from their tradition. Feels like Bentley suddenly marketing a hatchback that very much resemble a VW Polo, even if it using luxury materials like other Betley had, I guess nobody will like it anyway

Champs~Elysees
Idylle

to be honest, I just so-so with these two, but no problem really

LIDGE case, I beg to differ. its weird fragrance that keep changing on me, one time it smells just anised orange, next times its tea (but never cacao, sigh...) will it be the receiver of Legion d'Honneur of fragrance world? quality wise, yes. scent wise, probably no

Champs Élysées is truly hideous. Smells the way a beaten dog looks.

First, you must like the guerlinade accord found in most Guerlain Fragrances, if you don't, than Guerlain as a house may not agree with you...

Paul Kiler

mr reasonable:-) be reasonable, for 12 500 eur i buy a car not a perfume , especially from a nose who made so many terribly boring sweet scents:-)

Lol, what i have said i based on what i have tried from him, i gave it chance 10 times then i loose interest and it never moved me at all, i could not understand how he got his position there, honestly:-) , shalimar initial is such a copycat too:-) he merged insolence and shalimar together , and got extremely sweet powdery scent that is much nicer then hypnose! But i cant wear it, makes me sick:-) , he is so predictable in a way :-) ,that saying i dont think shalimar initial is bad per se its good done ! But is copycat:-)
,
Just my opinion that did not come over night, i don't have to generalise:-) nor you have to feel bad because you have your view on that:-)

Oh and i like guerlain homme too!

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I dont find that accord in Mitsouko:-) , nor in cologne Imperiale hehe, nor in Apres L Ondee, Shalimar doesnt have it in EDT concentration as well, its woody base.....eau de guerlain hm is sweetish, habit rouge? Shares something with Shalimar base, and L heure bleue with shalimar and apres l ondee.....btw using the same accord for so many perfumes is also pointing that they dont take time to develope completely new and original accords:-) .......i dont believe it anyway....but a new nose must be able to create something that is his own:-) his own style, if he goes copying old Guerlain what art is that? I look at perfumes that way

While i dont like Homme that much i do like Homme Intense a lot.
And i own homme and not homme intense, go figure!

David, my friend -

You are truly welcome. Wonderful point you mention and interesting approach in not listing L'Instant EdT for the fact that the EdP is so good. When doing the side-by-side comparison...I, too, was taken back by both the depth, quality and richness in the EdP version, but also how poorly the EdT version performed directly next to it. It was sheer disappointment. Personally, I think Guerlain made a big mistake here and should've actually marketing LIDGE as an entirely different scent. I concur with your statements entirely. The house is still very capable (still a pinnacle of excellence) and I applaud them for maintaining the quality of the classics and also open new doors of olfactory pleasure with LIDGE.

Very well said - LIDGE, to me, if full-bottle worthy after further test wearings...no doubt. I will have to become willing to put some more EdT on and look for that furniture wax note. It might pair nicely on a day when I am waxing my furniture...and I want a harmonious wearing of fragrance. ;-)

Cheers - great thread. Thought-provoking as it made me step back and realize, perhaps once again, just how important the classic Guerlain bottlings were (and still are)...we'll see what Thierry Wasser contributes since becoming the in-house perfumer at 68 Champs Elysse in 2008. Beatrice Piquet was the nose behind L'Instant (both EdT and EdP) in 2004 and 2005, respectively. Her only other male scents of notice were the Original Trussardi Uomo way back in 1983 (over two decades earlier and a leather fist across the nose...a remarkable powerhouse scent) and a few mainstream releases for the David Beckham line in the 2005-2009 time frame. Rather remarkable that she even had the opportunity to shape LIDGE, let alone pour the beautiful creation into the bottle for the Guerlain house!

Cheers,

ericrico

I'm also a LIDGE admirer ericrico. Good info also on Beatrice Piquet it's an interesting case because prior to LIDGE as a nose her resume is quite unremarkable. She passed away in 2010 so it's fitting that LIDGE will be known as her master work. Maybe she knew subconsciously her end was near and she poured all her creative energies into the project. Have you sampled any of her contributions to the Beckham line?

I bought the Homme Intense and had to send it back. The mojito was just too sweet for me and something I could not enjoy.

I'll just stay with LIDGE.

Guerlain Homme is my favorite Guerlain, other than Guerlain Homme L'Eau. It feels modern, clean, and different from typical mainstream fragrances of the same vein. I thoroughly enjoy the Mojito note and feel the quality is very good. I think some will unfairly criticize its "quality" when in fact it's just a style of fragrance they don't like personally. It's a way to try to sound more credible than simply saying "I don't like it," which is all that's really necessary in the first place. I've owned Heritage and Homme. I've worn both many times and and can not say that the quality of one is better than the other.

Hi alexwagner -

You bring a very interesting, thought-provoking and heartfelt addition to the thread. It also brings my point even more forward. May she Rest In Peace. She was so young - only 46. Truly sad.

Yes, I actually have two of the David Beckham releases...as I thought they were both competent and very wearable. I found a nice, competent scent in David Beckham Instinct - the first masculine offering in 2005 (same year as LIDGE, ironically). Not great longevity...but the price point is low and one should apply a liberal amount (and refresh to layer). I always spray on my shirt as well - a must! I like how the notes blend in that bottle, actually. A 3-4 hour wear in all. Surprisingly good though and I always judge a fragrance on 'scent' first...more for the mainstream, but one with a good nose can appreciate this work by Beatrice Piquet.

It actually got several compliments and, while not a loud scent - it puts out a nice aroma on a warm day. It actually convinced me to buy Signature Story for Him. Yes, while in a wearing of Instinct on a warm Spring day (summer temperature) - I tossed in a last minute bid and got it for a low price as well. It is a light-to-moderate scent that, while fair, isn't as attractive to me as Instinct. A bit watered-down and a bit sweet, but not too much of anything. A light-to-moderate wear. I got this for a low price, so I cannot complain...

These are two scents I find myself wearing on casual warm days/afternoons in the Spring & Summer when wearing a fragrance & smelling good for a few hours is the goal. But, would I go out of my way to pursue them - no. And, the key here is also price. Don't spend even close to retail on these. We all have and need scents like these. I also share these with my boys, who wear scent on a daily basis...so, both will get used.

A compelling statement and one that I will concur - LIDGE is definitely Piquet's master work and a scent that actually helped Guerlain as a house, not just for the next generation...but even for us who adore the classics. A saying is that, "We, as human beings, are most alive when we realize life is finite." We don't take our next breath without a pause for reflection. It establishes a moment of clarity and we accept that one day, we will not be here. So, Carpe Diem! Merci, Madame Piquet. Bravo.

Well said, alexwagner...cheers,

ericrico