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How important is the qualiy of fragrance oils?

post #1 of 9
1/21/13 at 6:45am
Thread Starter 
I am a beginner.
I ordered a few fragrance oils to experiment with (Vetiver, Patchouli, Lavender, Iris, Neroli and Chocholate) I had a few notes in my head, but no matter how I combine them they smell utterly wrong. Even if I go back to 2 base notes they smell like a toilet cleaner.

I am hooked on everything with Patchouli for a while, like I'm kind of loosing my head every time I smell something with Patchouli in it. On the other hand I feel absolutely nothing when I try this fragrance oil...

So I don't know if it is me, maybe the the quality of the fragrance oils or something else?
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post #2 of 9
1/21/13 at 8:29am
The quality of oils varies greatly.

Floracopeia.com has a very high standard.
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post #3 of 9
1/21/13 at 9:06am
The quality of all oils varies a great deal, but 'Fragrance Oils' that imitate expensive naturals like neroli and complex materials like patchouli are rarely any good unless you are buying one of the industry standard bases. The reason for this is that they have been put together by a perfumer, usually to a tight budget and with access only to common materials - while the industry standard bases are generally worked on by several very highly qualified perfumers, with access to a vast array of materials often including 'captives' of the house they work for. Because the base will be sold in huge quantities (often tonnes) a year and for many, many years a lot of effort and expense can go into making it. By contrast fragrance oils from a small house are often put together by one perfumer in a rush and will only ever sell a few litres a year.

So I would start again using real naturals and good quality bases - Iris and Chocolate you won't be able to get as naturals - have a look at the bases on Perfumers Apprentice - they are all available to buy but with some, you also get the full formula so that you can make it yourself when and if you are at the stage you want to do that - I've linked to the formula for their Chocolate base.

Hope that helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pamparag View Post

I am a beginner.
I ordered a few fragrance oils to experiment with (Vetiver, Patchouli, Lavender, Iris, Neroli and Chocholate) I had a few notes in my head, but no matter how I combine them they smell utterly wrong. Even if I go back to 2 base notes they smell like a toilet cleaner.

I am hooked on everything with Patchouli for a while, like I'm kind of loosing my head every time I smell something with Patchouli in it. On the other hand I feel absolutely nothing when I try this fragrance oil...

So I don't know if it is me, maybe the the quality of the fragrance oils or something else?
Reply
Reply
post #4 of 9
1/21/13 at 10:30am
So, Congrats on your first post...

But I must ask what you define as "Fragrance Oils"? I ask because they do have a specific meaning, and are separate and distinct from Essential oils, aromachemicals, Absolutes, professional basesetc.

I would define a fragrance oil as just as Chris said, "they have been put together by a perfumer, usually to a tight budget and with access only to common materials". These are often pretty cheap, and are good for novices and soapmakers/lotionmaker type folks. They pale in comparison in complexity to both the Professional bases, and the real essential oils, and the real source item. Fragrance oils come close with inexpensive materials.

So, what elements are you really thinking and talking about?
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post #5 of 9
1/21/13 at 11:21am
Thread Starter 
Thank you so much for your quick reply!

To some extent I am kind of aware of the differences between Essential oils, Fragrance oils, and absolutes. Basically I was comparing the choice and the prices of some retailers, and just ordered a couple of samples.
After reading through a few articles on DIY perfumes I decided to buy fragrance oils, because I thought that they are less irritating (in the final product and during preparation) than essential oils, they are cheaper, and I had the impression that they are more consistent.
I had the silly idea that with synthetic fragrance oils there is one specific formula for each smell, and no matter where they come from, they will be basically the same...
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post #6 of 9
1/21/13 at 11:48am
This is very interesting!

I think the quality of the oil is the most important choice in making parfum.
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post #7 of 9
1/21/13 at 12:51pm
Well vetiver, lavender and patchouli are inexpensive to buy as essential oils even if you go for a great quality so you may as well buy the naturals of those. Haitian vetiver is often touted as being the nicest smelling (although I've not yet tried it), I prefer Bulgarian lavender because it smells clearer, more floral and less herbal than the others I've tried but I like my patchouli dark and dirty so I buy the commonly available version of that.
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post #8 of 9
1/22/13 at 2:29am
The choice for me would be influenced greatly by the repeatable availability with a constant quality from the supplier. There are some very beautiful oils and abs, but unless one can obtain them again to the same degree, it renders them useless for a perfume design because it becomes a one off. Fine for such.

I recently used up all my unrepeatable oils/abs in candle blends as Christmas presents. The candles were supreme even though I say so myself, but unique forever because they contained such rare and wonderful ingredients. Lovely presents, but not very useful commercially. No good keeping such ingredients except a drop for reference, because inevitably one uses them in a trial blend for their beauty.

I would always go with the very, very best ingredients one could afford unless chasing a certain smell. Saying that, I did buy some fearfully cheap and very ancient patchouli recently. It is filthily magnificent, but of course runs into unrepeatable again.
It will have to be for a private blend only or just to sniff and re-visit Carnaby Street in my mind. I shall have to send you some.
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post #9 of 9
1/23/13 at 4:31pm
Thread Starter 
Thank you for all. I will try the natural ones and see how they work together...
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