Originally Posted by Jonty Coppersmith
The regulations or restrictions that y'all are complaining about are imposed from within the industry and have nothing to do with politicians. Please let's keep politics out of basenotes.
Actually, Jonty the IFRA bows to regulations from the EU - as I understand it the restrictions and banning recommendations are coming from a body set-up by the EU in much the same way as FDA works in the US. I think to deny that lobbyists for synthetic and chemical products do not influence the 'scientists' employed by the EU and some of the remarkably stupid decisions being made is maybe a bit naive - please don't take that personally and I certainly have no desire to get into politics here but this is a fact. The IFRA only now seems to have woken up to the fact that whereas in the beginning these restrictions made it easier for the IFRA members (the leading aromachemical companies like IFF, Givaudan, Symrise etc. who make over 60% of the perfumes we talk about here) to discard costly and irregular supplies of natural ingredients from farmers and growers all over the world for patented molecules that each member developed and controlled, the EU boffins clearly want to keep their jobs and are now saying stuff that is essential (both natural and synthetic) should be banned - hence the recent press about the demise of Chanel N0.5 and 'the end of perfumery'. It's a mix of political and monopolistic tendencies that is driving this mess.
As far as chypres are concerned I agree with most of the above and will add Vintage Acqua di Parma Profumo
if it hasn't already been mentioned but in terms of chypres from the last couple of years I don't think they are any because of the oak moss restrictions - maybe Diaghalev
The only perfume that has made an impression on me as being redolent of a a true chypre - executed with a sleight of hand that really is quite amazing - is Mon Parfum Cherie par Camille
from Annick Goutal. Despite the name it is a robust chypre style piece of work (using patchouli) that has a slightly bitter edge like Aromatics Elixir and I would recommend it to anyone looking for something in this genre. I prefer the EDT over the EDP, myself.