Molecule 01

It's either the combination of Iso E Super with something else that makes Terre D'Hermes and Encre Noir intolerable for you (and me, frankly), or, it's that something else entirely. I've been curious about that too, and I haven't been able to figure it out. There's something in Terre D'Hermes, Encre Noir, Azzaro Visit, Michael For Men and others that I can't stand. I have no idea what it is. I thought at first Iso E Super was what they all had in common, but I like Molecule 01, so clearly there must be something else.

Maybe it's the combination of Iso E Super WITH something else? Or maybe it's that something else entirely? I sure don't know... but I am curious.

I can't smell Molecule 01 within seconds of spraying it! am I the only one?

Nope. Not at all.

Nice frag. Enjoy bro!

I agree with everything you said. Its amazing. Its so smooth and natural feeling. The best cedar smell hands down with something else magical happening. The stuff lasts and lasts. I can put on my jacket and smell it from days prior. It puts a smile on my face to catch whiffs like that from things I've worn. I'll never be without a bottle. I'm tempted to even spray it around the apartment. I've even had compliments on it.

I really don't want to try Molecule 01...I feel it might ruin certain other fragrances for me.

Nope, I have the same problem. All I can smell is a bit of alcohol when I first spray it, then nothing at all. It's quite frustrating because I wish I could smell it.

Stealth scent for me. Doused myself in it, couldn't smell a thing. Tried again, same result. Gave up.

I like it. I've used it from a sample vial and I could smell it on me for maybe 2 hours. (after that ,I didn't ask if anyone smell anything on me) ,but during that time I got a nice compliment. It reminds me of Eau Divine by Divine ( also from a sample vial I had 2 years ago , which I really liked it)

I don't get it. In theory, couldn't one make themselves a large bottle of this for around $10?

Probably less and its a kinda lazy fragrance isn't it? None of the range do it for me.

This is a scent that you wear for others and not for yourself to enjoy since you won't be able to smell it.

I wore this yesterday and the day before. I still smell it on my coat. I love it! I got my bottle last year for half the price.

Luca once sent me some pure Iso-E. It's much deeper smelling when it's not diluted down, I feel that the dilution in alcohol helps it to 'blossom'.

That's what Geza Schoen said a few months ago here in London.

Not at all. Many folks have the same issue. I confess I must be relatively anosmic to it as well, as it is just faintly detectable to me throughout.

This is not uncommon reaction to Molecule 01 or iso E super. The fact is, that our noses are very delicate and strange devices, designed to perceive and do marvelous things. One thing our noses do is "turn off" our ability to perceive a scent after prolonged exposure to it. This is evidenced by spending time around a pig farm or chicken coup or any other "stinky" place. You can smell the wretched stank for a while but soon, its not bothering you anymore. Your sense of smell has become anosmic.

The scent molecule "Iso e super" is a larger molecule comparatively. For this reason it is primarily used as a base in fragrances. We all know that bases are bases because they outlast the other notes. IT's why citrus is often complained about for being short lived. Well, Iso E super is a larger molecule and it has a tendency to "bombard and overwhelm" the scent receptors in our brain. Often without us even knowing it! People who wear Molecule 01 will tell you that the scent is meant to be smelled on you by others, not smelled by you. They will also confirm that they will not smell it most of the day, however, from time to time, they will catch whiffs of the sweet woody, soapy, airy scent.

Most people want to smell the scent on themselves and this fragrance is NOT for that kind of wearer. It's especially good for situations like school, work, the bus, a meeting, where you are likely to be in close quarters with others. No one wants to be stuck around someone whose bathed in Grey Flannel this morning, and what you perceive as a good scent, others may not. Molecule 01 works excellently for this situation because the people are likely to smell it on you when you enter the room or pass by them...maybe even for a few moments when you first are near them, but just like it did for you, the scent will seemingly fade away to invisibility to them too. Making the perfect "close quarters scent".

For my friends who have never yet smelled Molecule 01... either because they have not had occasion to, or because they tried it and smelled nothing immediately after putting it on, allow me to make a recommendation to help.
--Take your bottle, or sample or atomizer of Molecule 01 and spray a couple sprays onto a hand towel clean t-shirt or pillow. Remember where you sprayed it and set it aside to dry for a few hours, or overnight. The next day, bury your nose into the spot where you had liberally sprayed the juice. NOW, do you smell that!??
Given the time to unwind and break down a little, the scent should be more easily detectable to your nose. To me it smells like someone took the washing machine filled it with clean white cotton t-shirts, water, old school detergent suds, some wood chips and the lightest bit of musk. It's really not loud at all. It is also really "safe", the scent is not overbearing in any department. It's just pleasant and simple the way the earth smells after a rainstorm. The smell is present, and detectable, but not way turned up.

I have a small surplus of Molecule 01, because I buy it whenever occasion permits. If anyone wants to try it, PM me and if you pay for the postage, I will send you a vial or two for free to try.


Others will have to comment on this, because I personally cannot pick out the "Iso E Super" in other scents. But, even the ones that are reported to have loads of ISO in them such as Encre Noire - Kenzo Air -- Fahrenheit -- Terre d'Hermes -- Poivre Samarkande -- Cartier Declaration I do not find a common thread in them personally. But, I have also heard that Iso can be adaptable and change based on the other ingredients it's playing with.

I bought a sample along with many others from Walkdogg a week ago. I catch a fleeting whiff then it's gone. What I like about it, is that it amplifies other fragrances. If I apply it, let it dry, then put on something like Penhaligon's that smells nice but sits close to the skin, it helps it project better. Alone it smells like alcohol and faint cedar. My thing is that it just goes to show that the fragrance world can put a $2 ingredient in a $1 bottle and sell it for $135. Capitalism at it's best!

It just takes someone with the brilliance / cynicism to do it !

Even factoring in the overhead, production, and research/development costs, much of perfumery boils down to hype. If you can hype your fragrance, you can sell your item that costs $4 to make for whatever the market will bear. There is a chap in the UK who is selling on EBAY 20% Super Iso E in alcohol in an attractive metal container for less than $9 even with shipping. Creed and Bond no. 9 are examples of two companies who do a great job of convincing us to shell out $200 for $4 worth of ingredients and a bottle (which almost always costs more than the juice to manufacture) I'm not saying it is wrong per se, but You must admit, there was little/no research and development behind dropping 10ml Super Iso E into 90mls of alcohol and charging $130!!!

2 questions:

1. @walkdog (or anyone else). Have you actually tried/compared molecule 01 to homemade ISO E Super diluted? I've heard mixed results but it sound like it should work the same.

2. More of a general question based one the first but is the molecule 01 bottle refillable or is it sealed? I actually like the bottle and wouldn't be adverse to rewarding them for coming up with the fragrance but in the long term I don't think bottle art would justify the huge markup (especially over time). Then again I completely understand if you cannot as an anti-fraud/reselling measure.

Sounds like I need to give it a go since my wife is the same way. SHe will certainly let me know when she does like what I'm wearing (which is most of the time), but it's hard to find something that we both agree on.

I get a headache from Terre too, but not Encre Noire, which I think has even more Iso e Super in it than does Terre.

But as a Perfumer, I can tell you that it is not the Iso E Super giving me the headaches... will be something else.
(Since I have the uncut stuff here to smell.) I've been testing out the newer improved molecule version of the Iso E Super...

And I have wiped a tiny bit on my shirt when handling the liquid. It has a nice fragrance when I smell it, but it's also not right on my face... It's such a large molecule, that for people who can't seem to smell Molecule 1, it might help to wear it farther from your face.

(Not having had Molecule 1 analyzed) I also wonder if there isn't a tiny bit of some other things in it to liven it up a tiny bit...

I'm unconvinced.

I believe some of us are truly anosmic to this molecule. Since when would a large molecule be only detectable when first wafted to the nose (only) OR after a period of time has elapsed? I am unaware of this phenomenon with any other large molecules, many of which are perfectly detectable whenever one takes a whiff of one. The size of a molecule plays some role in its diffusion, but does not make it magical. Why would this one molecule behave differently from every other scent molecule with which I have come in contact? It makes much more sense to me that some of us lack the specific receptors to pick up anything but the faintest trace of something, maybe. There are plenty of examples in the literature of chemicals which some people can detect and others cannot.

I'll have to try this since I love the Iso in Terre and I love cedar. Though I'd have to pass if it was just for others and I didn't detect it.

I don't believe that certain individuals lack a specific receptor no more than a person lacks a gene for green hair. In the case of hair, the gene is simply not turned on. In the case of the receptor, I feel it is there but perhaps another phenomenon is at play. Ever wonder why a smoker can't recognize their own bad breath or how that smell stinks until they quit? Perhaps the receptors are being bombarded by more robust, daily chemicals that diminish the sensitivity of the receptor to chemicals of certain size. There is also the issue of nasogastric construction and sinus/allergy scenarios. It could be that active cytokine mediation has chronically inflamed portions in key regions of the olfactory canal. Olfaception can be altered depending on physiology and environment, among other possible sources.

I own this, and like it quite a bit.

First, scent molecules are complex. They bind to multiple olfactory receptors with differing affinity, ie. there is no "Vanilla" receptor, or "Rose" receptor, but the combination of binding to multiple receptors causes a cascade of electrical signals to go to the brain where it is 'interpreted' There are about 900 olfactory related genes identified in humans, dogs and other canines have many more and can detect smells 10,000 weaker than humans! I don't know much about some people not being able to smell certain things, but I do know it is scientifically proven that certain scents are "invisible" to certain people. Couple that with things like smoking, or living in a polluted environment full of other smells, and something as subtle but pervasive as Iso E Super may go undetected. It is in fact very strong in "whiffs and waves" to me, even at light application, but it dances and hides, coming out at unexpected times. It smells like pepper and sort of like Black Tourmaline's "ground stone" smell to me.

Thanks. I've tried spraying on a card and then smelling it now and again over several hours or even days, and still nothing. And I've tried it on my skin several times, nothing.


They do it all the time. In fact, you're probably overstating at $2. Here was one interesting read, which I've posted before: http://boisdejasmin.com/2012/02/the-...perfume-1.html.

We are all familiar with the concept of olfactory fatigue in which with constant exposure to a smell, one stops noticing it. This is not the case here. The people who can not smell it, can not smell it when first exposed to it, after a period of time, or when re-exposed to it later on. So clearly it is not an issue of fatigue such as smoker breath.

I really can't think of an example of a situation where i don't seem to be smelling anything in particular, and I stick my nose right up to a chemical and take multiple whiffs of it, and I can't smell it, unless the chemical has no smell for me. Robust, daily chemicals that block the receptors? Continuously? Well, if a receptor is continuously blocked all the time, it really wouldn't matter if I had the receptor, since I will never be able to use it, and therefore will not be able to smell the molecules that might land there. Essentially, it is the same as saying I don't have the receptor, since a continuously blocked receptor is no receptor at all. Olfaction can be affected by nasal inflammation, physiology, and environment, but my question is why a group of people who can smell most all other everyday chemicals, cannot smell this one. I have no other evident symptoms of inflammation or nasal allergies, but I can not smell this molecule except for possibly in the faintest way, ever.

I do NOT believe we have a specific unique receptor for each and every different scent molecule. I do believe that the scientific evidence has shown that we have many different receptors and not every person has the exact same set of receptors. For us to smell something, it has to fit one of the many receptors we have. If someone has no receptors that are able to bind a molecule, they can not smell it. If they have a receptor or two that can bind only part of a chemical or only weakly, they may not be able to smell it well, while someone who has receptors that can bind more of the "scent-active" parts of a chemical may smell it robustly.

I've read similar articles...and believe that if they spend only $3 on ingredients, they could spend another 50 cents and make it a bit more projective, or last a wee bit longer. It is no excuse to pay $400 for something that won't last 4 hours. For all the complaining we (myself included) do about Bond no. 9, they give you a powerhouse for your $3 juice!

I feel that a receptor, is just that....a receptor. The body is made of many diverse types that have different associations from pain, which lets us detect danger or illness, to cardiac rate control. We are inherently born with these basic receptors and its safe to say that we all possess them. I have to disagree that there is one, very specific type of receptor that can only detect Iso E super and that there are genetic anomalies out there born without it, which would have to be the case. If there were many receptors that could and is capable of detecting Iso E Super, it would make your scenario even more unlikely. Think about it.

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Also, the fact that they can smell it initially means they have receptors that detect it and work just fine. Desensitization or some other explanations is more likely, me thinks. Hey man, just my thought.

Molecule 01 is such an interesting fragrance. Yeah, we all know it's just Iso E Super, diluted. And most know that Iso E Super is a large molecule some people have trouble smelling. I think that is what lead to the silliness surrounding this scent.

One incorrect assumption about Molecule 01: Since you won't be able to smell it, Molecule 01 is a scent you wear for others, not yourself. That's only true if you can't smell it. I have no trouble smelling it, and I'm sure that's true for many (if not most) who own it. Why would anyone buy a scent they can't smell, right? I sometimes get bored of it after a while though since it doesn't evolve.

Another false assumption: It doesn't last, comes and goes, has poor longevity, no projection, etc etc etc. Molecule 01 lasts a long time on skin, and it lasts ages on clothing. I assume that since some can't smell it, they mistakenly believe it doesn't last.

Also not true: Women will follow you around to find out what you're wearing because this stuff is almost magical. That's just silly, but some believe it. Like any other fragrance, Molecule 01 is just a smell. It's a synthetic smell that was created in a lab. Some will love it, some will be indifferent, and some will dislike it. Personally, I enjoy it, but I wore it quite a bit in the fall and had mixed results. One woman went crazy over it, another didn't like it at all. A friend couldn't smell it, and others seemed somewhat indifferent. Molecule 01 is good stuff, but it's no magic bullet.

One more false assumption: It's impossible to over-apply Molecule 01. Again, that's incorrect. It's a fragrance, and like any fragrance, it's not hard to overdo it, especially if your body heats up. The day I got my sample of Molecule 01, I put it on around 6PM. I woke up in the middle of the night and felt like I was drowning in the stuff. I'm a hot sleeper. As my body heated up, the stuff started projecting like crazy, and I'm pretty sure I was woken up by the smell. It was like a giant cloud.

I think many people are going to get tricked into the silly mythology developing around this scent, and many fools will be parted from their money only to regret buying into the hype. But there will also be people wise enough to base their purchases on whether they enjoy the smell of the stuff, and I think fans of woody scents not to mention simple or minimal scents might become big fans of Molecule 01. I'm somewhere in between like and love. The less I wear it, the more I enjoy it, since it's easy to get tired of this one due to the simplicity of it. Sure, Iso E Super is a complex molecule, but it's nowhere near as complex as fragrances made up of many notes that evolve in various stages.

Would I recommend it? For people who love woods: yes. For people looking for the next bandwagon to hop on: no. For people who enjoy minimalism. Definitely maybe (grin). Molecule 01 has such a specific scent that you really have to try before you buy.

Bottom line:
- Don't buy into the hype.
- Smell it for yourself and let your nose decide. Your nose knows.

I can't say about Molecule 1, but I bought that aforementioned bottle of dilluted Iso E Super from that seller in the UK, just to identlify what it smelled like. Well, I can say loudly that I HATE it. To me, it's the epitome of the synthetic, plasticy smell that I don't want to encounter in any perfume.

Off topic (kind of...)
I've slowly discovered something...Many people read the first few posts in a thread, then jump to the end and post their own thoughts without reading anything in the middle. I chuckle when I see virtually word for word a long dissertation that someone else wrote 10 posts up posted at the end of a thread. If they actually read it, they would have just put "reply with quote" and typed "I agree!" I'm NOT picking on any one person here, I guess I've done it too.

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Wow, that frightens me abit, I was going to try it b/c I do enjoy Iso E Super in Molecule 01...I wonder if I should now...

I think it's the same smell as in Molecule 1 more or less.

I have a sample of Molecule 01 and some Iso E Super which I've diluted to wear rather than buy Molecule 01. To my nose, they smell the same, so I doubt anything has been added other than what they dilute with. I could be wrong, of course.

One thing I find weird is that most of my favorite perfumes are loaded with iso E super (according to basenoters) but I'm still not sure what this "ISO E SUPER" thing smells like!!!

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I looked through my samples and found a sample of Escentric 01 which is supposed to be even more concentrated than Molecule 01. I tried it and was able to actually smell something... I smelled citrus and pepper and "maybe" a hint of musk, it does share something with terre d'hermes but it was still a skin scent and didn't project at all.

Actually, Molecule 01 is Iso E Super, diluted to be wearable. Escentric 01 is a fragrance based on Iso E Super but containing other notes as well, so it technically has less Iso E Super since it has other things too. If you can't smell Iso E Super, then in Escentric 01, you're smelling mostly the other stuff. Think of it like a cup of coffee versus a cup of Irish Coffee. Let's say they're both 5 oz, but the Irish coffee also has whiskey. They're both coffee drinks, but one has just coffee, the other has coffee, whiskey, cream, sugar and maybe some spices. 02 and 03 work the same way. Molecule 02 is ambroxan. Escentric 02 is ambroxan with other notes to make a more complex fragrance.

Do you like Escentric 01? I haven't had the chance to smell that one yet. I think it'd be neat to get an opinion of Escentric 01 from someone who can't smell Iso E Super. It'd be a completely different scent. Escentric 01 and 02 are scents I need to get samples of sometime!

Escentric 01 has the highest concentration of iso e super of any perfume ever created, doesn't matter if it has other notes.

Really? Wow. I didn't know that. I wonder why it has more Iso E Super than Molecule 01. That's very odd.

Now i'm not so sure. This is what it says on luckyscent: "Second only to its sister scent Molecule 01, Escentric 01 boasts the highest concentration of the aroma chemical Iso E Super ever to be used in perfumery (65%)."

Here is a table of Top Ten Fragrances with Regard to Their Content in Iso E Super
No., Fragrance Name (Company, launch year), Iso E Super
[NB. the percentage is in regards to compound, not diluted ready to use product]

1 Molecule 01 (escentric molecules, 2005) 100%
2 Perles de Lalique (Lalique, 2007) 80%
3 Poivre Samarcande (Herme`s, 2004) 71%
4 Escentric 01 (escentric molecules, 2005) 65%
5 Terre d'Hermes (Hermes, 2006) 55%
6 Incense Kyoto (comme des garcons, 2002) 55%
7 Incense Jaisalmer (comme des garcons, 2002) 51%
8 Fierce for Men (Abercrombie & Fitch, 2002) 48%
9 Kenzo Air (Kenzo, 2003) 48%
10 Encre noire (Lalique, 2006) 45%

Ref for table: Schon G. 2008. 'Escentric' molecules. Chemistry & Biodiversity. 5 (6) :1154-8. In June 2008. Verlag Helvetica Chimica Acta AG,Zurich

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Yes, I think a few around here have done just that. I've got mine at about 20% of solution.

I don't think it's anything that special on its own and understand how some view it as having an annoying, suffocating characteristic when really ramped-up in a composition.

Second means Molecule 01 has the most and Escentric 01 has the second-most (in other words, slightly less, probably offset by the volume of the other ingredients before dilution).

65% means that 65% of Escentric 01 is Iso E Super before dilution. Molecule 01 would be 100% Iso E Super before dilution. The whole "before dilution" thing is where it always gets confusing. People often say a fragrance is 20% Iso E Super (for example) but that really means 20% of the undiluted solution is Iso E Super. Nobody sells undiluted perfume. That'd be strong to the point where it wouldn't be wearable and potentially dangerous too. I think Terre D'Hermes is something like 20% Iso E Super, but really, it'd be 20% of the entire fragrance before being diluted down to either EdT or EdP strength, depending on which you buy.

[EDIT] Terre is 55% Iso E Super?! WOW! Thanks for that list DuNezDeBuzier. Great stuff!

Ah I see now. Thanks for clearing that up LBI.

Not sure if I like it or not since it's very weak but I can say that if you like pepper, cedar, citrus, woody or sharp musky notes then you'll probably find Escentric01 interesting. I know that's not very helpful but it's very hard describing something you can't smell properly! I wouldn't buy any of these since I wear fragrance mostly for myself to enjoy.

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and congrats to the original poster for getting epic sillage from molecule 01 ... I say if you and people around you like it then go for it man!

Me too! I have the homemade version (bought some Iso E Super and added it to 98% alcohol according to a recipe found on BN) and I cannot smell anything - only a bit of alcohol. One thing I can say, is that it DOES amplify any other scent that I am wearing. It is very annoying not being able to smell it. Sometimes I wonder whether people are just kidding me, that they cannot really smell it either but love to wind me up

And Amouage, and Frederic Malle, and Serge Lutens, and Durbano, and (probably the worst offender) By Kilian, and basically every house out there. It's not just Creed and Bond.