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From a little to much to much to little...

post #1 of 4
2/12/13 at 12:01pm
Thread Starter 
Hi all,

most of the posts regarding quantities of aroma chemicals or oils used, are about the tiny amounts one should use. Examples come to mind as Indole, Galbanum, Civet, et cetera, often diluted to workable quantities as 1% or even 0.1%. But now for the other, less often heard, way around: the stuff one can hardly over-do.

The main reason for this question is for building a significant 'body structure' for a perfume, on which to 'attach' the aroma chemicals in more subtle quantities while still getting enough pre-diluted fragrance base for an EDP or EDT strength scent.

What comes first to mind are the usual suspects like Hedione, Galaxolide and Methyl Ionone (i think the basic skeleton for a lot of woman's perfumes nowadays, which combined often use up as much as 80% of the ingredient weight). I tuned this to an accord i often use and named it MAGISH, after the ingredients (here it is).

Can we make up a list of such ingredients which can hardly overpower a composition (apart from the ones intentionally done so or as single molecule ones like Molecule 01 with Iso E Super)?

IMHO such a list could start with:

Hedione
Geraniol
Limonene
Lilial
Vertofix
Benzyl -alcohol, -acetate, -benzoate, -salicylate
Linalol
Dihydromyrcenol
Citronellol
Bergamot
ISO E Super
Ethyl linalool
Galaxolide

Any other candidates?
Looking forward!
Happy perfuming!

Jeroen.
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post #2 of 4
2/12/13 at 6:38pm
Benzoin
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post #3 of 4
2/12/13 at 10:18pm
Interesting topic, Jeroen

I'd add linalyl acetate and phenethyl alcohol to the list.
But I would remove the rose alcohols, geraniol and citronellol and probably lilial as well - these can get 'scratchy' if not dosed with at least some care IMHO
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post #4 of 4
2/14/13 at 6:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark View Post

Interesting topic, Jeroen

I'd add linalyl acetate and phenethyl alcohol to the list.
But I would remove the rose alcohols, geraniol and citronellol and probably lilial as well - these can get 'scratchy' if not dosed with at least some care IMHO

I agree with those but I'd also delete benzyl alcohol and benzoate (because of the IFRA restrictions, though I agree they belong from a purely olfactory viewpoint) and limonene (for the same reason and also because it will eventually dominate).

Ones I'd add include Dimetol, Ethyl linalyl acetate and several other musks such as Exaltolide, Romandolide, Tonalid and so on. You could perhaps add Geranyl acetate as well, I think that's pretty hard to overdose. You might also consider things like Hercolyn D, which is very low odour but that can suffer from the same problem as Benzoin: at about 2% and above you start to get a flattening effect on the top-notes that is problematic.

Good topic!

- - - Updated - - -

Thinking about this a bit more you could possibly add cedramber and ambergris (cost permitting) to the 'difficult to overdose' list. Ambergris replacers in the Ambroxan/Ambrox/Ambrofix range too, and of course sandalwood: after all if you put enough of that in you can leave out the alcohol and call it an Attar! The same is less true of the sandalwood synthetics however some of which (such as Javanol for example) are much too strong and need a reduced dose.
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