Quote:
Originally Posted by
Skelly 
You're welcome to use and abuse this formula I'm working on, but bear in mind that I've only been doing this for a few weeks so it needs a lot of work
It also uses more EO's than you've specified.
Musk T 10 (The only musk I have atm)
ISO E 30 (I'm going to drop that to 15 or lower next time)
Sandalwood blend (5g generic hippy shop EO plus 10 drops Firmenich Sandalwood 184025H) 50% 11
Coumarin 10% 2
Cedramber 1
Geranium (China) EO 3
Clary Sage EO 4
Hedione 20
Brazillian Berry (schinus terebenthifolius) CO2 extract 10% 4
Jasmine ABS 10% 15
Coriander EO 10% 9
Lemon EO 3 (Perhaps you could use citral or citronellol here?)
Please post any modifications you make - I'm interested - it needs 'em. Anyone else is more than welcome to weigh in with suggestions.
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Jeroen Sparla (from here) has some interesting formula.
https://sites.google.com/site/perfumerecipes/home
Your formula looks like a good basis. I would look at adding at least one, preferably two or extra musks. If you have no ambitions to sell then Musk Ketone would be lovely with the Jasmine and a trace of Ambrettolide would enhance it a lot too. If you do want to sell I'd replace the Musk Ketone with either Exaltolide or Muscone all of which work well with Ethylene brassylate (Musk T).
I think you could really do with an ambergris replacer in there, but if you don't have any try increasing the cedramber by quite a lot, possibly dropping down the sandalwood a bit so that it doesn't go too woody: it's quite good for increasing diffusion.
Another thing you might try is adding a little petitgrain to help marry the top and base notes. Speaking of top notes, it's a bit light on them and phenyl ethyl alcohol and geranyl acetate might help brighten it, as would a little floralozone.
With the lemon, you could replace (or more likely add to) with citral, which would last better but be harsher. If you don't have citral then Lemongrass or May Chang (Litsea cubeba) are both mostly citral and would work too. Citronellol however isn't citrusy, despite the name, it's more rose so isn't a potential replacement.
