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Do you have a favourite all time perfumer ? If so, who and why ?

post #1 of 24
2/22/13 at 5:20pm
Thread Starter 
Any and all respondents most welcome. Love to hear your thoughts.

I am referring to an individual person, not a perfume house.
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post #2 of 24
2/22/13 at 5:23pm
Marc de La Morandiere's creation: Gengis Khan. Just superb IMO.
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post #3 of 24
2/22/13 at 5:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hednic View Post

Gengis Khan. Just superb IMO.

Few people know that along with being a fearless Mongolian warrior, Khan also found the time to compose many beautiful parfums.

Haha jk Hednic!

Mine is probably Bertrand Duchaufour.
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post #4 of 24
2/22/13 at 5:32pm
Thread Starter 
Hednic,

thanks for that.

I was not very clear - I actually meant an individual person, not a perfume or perfume house.
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post #5 of 24
2/22/13 at 5:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JiveHippo View Post

Few people know that along with being a fearless Mongolian warrior, Khan also composed many beautiful parfums.

Sorry for the misread. I meant to say Marc de La Morandiere
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post #6 of 24
2/22/13 at 5:35pm
My vote goes to Vlad The Impaler. Absolutely fantastic nose.
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post #7 of 24
2/22/13 at 5:36pm
Roudnitska.
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post #8 of 24
2/22/13 at 5:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hednic View Post

Sorry for the misread. I meant to say Marc de La Morandiere

Sorry for having a bit of fun with it, couldn't resist.
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post #9 of 24
2/22/13 at 5:55pm
How can you really have just one?

Bertrand Dutchafour
Jean-Paul Guerlain
Jacques Guerlain
Jean-Claude Ellena
Jacques Polge
Mark Buxton
Francis Kurkdjian
Jean-Louis Sieuzac
Thierry Wasser
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post #10 of 24
2/22/13 at 6:08pm
I have a few absolute favorites:

Dominique Ropion
Jean Kerleo
Angelo Orazio Pregoni
Jean-Claude Ellena
Geza Schoen

If pressed to only name one, it would have to be Ropion, as he is responsible for Portrait of a Lady... That is enough for me...
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post #11 of 24
2/22/13 at 6:36pm
I don't have a favourite perfumer but it seems like everything I buy these days are created by Olivia Giacobetti.
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post #12 of 24
2/22/13 at 6:44pm
No one in particular.
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post #13 of 24
2/22/13 at 7:08pm
Andy Tauer. He seems like such a great person, and his background before he began making perfumes isn't what I expected at all, though it makes perfect sense. He was a chemist and is a self-taught perfumer. Gotta love that. L'Air du Desert Marocain is a frigging work of art. Lonestar Memories is too, though that one's not as easy to wear.
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post #14 of 24
2/22/13 at 7:15pm
Roja Dove
Jean Paul Guerlain
Jacques Guerlain
Dominique Ropion
Francis Kurkdjian
Bertrand Dutchafour
Andy Tauer
Christopher Sheldrake
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post #15 of 24
2/22/13 at 7:53pm
Hard to choose one, but if needed, I'd go with Germaine Cellier, who did my favorite Bandit, Vent Vert, Jolie Madame, and, though this is not my very favorite, Fracas. Cravache too, just to add to the set.

cacio
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post #16 of 24
2/22/13 at 8:20pm
HISTORIC
• Edmond Roudnitska (for Diorella, Rochas Femme, Diorissimo, and Eau Sauvage)
• Jacques Guerlain (for nearly every truly great Guerlain perfume—specifically feminine perfumes)
• Aimé Guerlain (Jicky)
• Jean-Paul Guerlain (Vetiver, Derby, Habit Rouge—most of the great Guerlain fragrances for men)
• Bernard Chant (for creating that wonderful signature found in Cabochard, Aramis, Azurée and Aromatics Elixir)
• Vincent Roubert (for Iris Gris and Knize Ten)
• François Coty (for basically inventing modern perfumery / for creating Chypre and Knize Ten)
• Guy Roubert (for the Hermès classics, Amouage Gold, Dioressence and Madame & Monsieur Rochas)
• Henri Robert (for Cristalle, Nº19)
• Ernest Beaux (for Nº5, Cuir de Russie, Bois des Iles, Gardénia and Nº22)
• Ernest Daltroff (for the house of Caron)
• Jean Laporte (for founding L'Artisan Parfumeur, the first niche perfume house, and then founding Maître Parfumeur et Gantier)
• Germaine Cellier (for Vent Vert, Bandit, Fracas and for just being awesome)
• Jean-Louis Sieuzac (for Bel Ami, Dune, Opium, Oscar, and Fahrenheit)

CONTEMPORARY
• Annick Menardo (for creating little oddities in the vast sea of sameness)
• Aurelien Guichard (for breathing new life into Piguet and for consistently producing interesting fragrances)
• Andy Tauer (for making fantastic niche fragrances and redefining "indie perfumer")
• Jacques Polge (for creating Antaeus, Bois Noir, Égoïste, Coco, Tiffany for Men, the Chanel Exclusifs, etc.)
• Bernard Chant (for creating a prolific number of superb and interestign fragrances and working as the in-house perfumer of L'Artisan)
• Maurice Roucel (for a great many things, not the least of which is composing Iris Silver Mist)
• Christopher Sheldrake (for 99% of the Lutens line and a hefty portion of the Chanel Exclusifs)
• Mathilde Laurent (her brief stint at Guerlain and Les Heures de Cartier)
• Patricia de Nicolaï (Parfums de Nicolaï and running the Osmotheque)
• Mona di Orio (for crafting heart-achingly beautiful perfumes - RIP)
• Pierre Bourdon (Cool Water, the creation of the Féminité du Bois structure—see Dolce Vita, Green Irish Tweed, and MANY other creations)


These were all that I could think of (I'm sure I missed a few). Impossible to pick one so I tried to list all of the perfumers that I truly admire.
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post #17 of 24
2/22/13 at 8:40pm
Jacques Guerlain. No other perfumer can claim as many towering masterpieces - none even comes close.

i can't even understand how this can be a point of discussion, to be honest.
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post #18 of 24
2/22/13 at 8:49pm
Great list and summary, Andregooren. It's impossible to name one unless you have a holy grail signature fragrance. I'd like to add Calice Becker to the list for her work at By Kilian and Dominic Dubrana for his artistry at La via del Profumo.

I'd also like to propose a toast the 'lesser known' noses who have done fantastic work under talented creative directors at Histoires de Parfums and Amouage.

But I suppose for the 'all time' greats, it's hard to beat Jacques Guerlain esp. if you're a fan of Guerlain style.
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post #19 of 24
2/22/13 at 9:11pm
Jean Claude Ellena as perfumer of my ever loving fragrances Declaration and TDH.
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post #20 of 24
2/22/13 at 11:56pm
Maybe a bit too basic but nonetheless true. I like perfumes not perfumers. Because for each nice perfume I like from a certain perfumer, there are two other creations that I didn't like.

I don't focus on perfumers, music bands, fashion houses and so on (well maybe except Bottega, they have yet to blunder). I focus on the end product.
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post #21 of 24
2/23/13 at 12:08am
No surprises: Ernest Beaux gets my vote.
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post #22 of 24
2/23/13 at 5:23am
Jacques Polge. For his incredible string of great scents over a long and remarkable career. One or two fragrances the calibre of Tiffany For Men, Egoiste/Platinum, or Allure Homme/Sport, would have put him in the pantheon. And there have been dozens. Quintessentially French, Polge’s flair for combining masculinity and class rarely fails.
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post #23 of 24
2/23/13 at 5:25am
Without a doubt Bertrand Dutchafour, for so many of his creations

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:
Originally Posted by andregooren View Post

HISTORIC
• Edmond Roudnitska (for Diorella, Rochas Femme, Diorissimo, and Eau Sauvage)
• Jacques Guerlain (for nearly every truly great Guerlain perfume—specifically feminine perfumes)
• Aimé Guerlain (Jicky)
• Jean-Paul Guerlain (Vetiver, Derby, Habit Rouge—most of the great Guerlain fragrances for men)
• Bernard Chant (for creating that wonderful signature found in Cabochard, Aramis, Azurée and Aromatics Elixir)
• Vincent Roubert (for Iris Gris and Knize Ten)
• François Coty (for basically inventing modern perfumery / for creating Chypre and Knize Ten)
• Guy Roubert (for the Hermès classics, Amouage Gold, Dioressence and Madame & Monsieur Rochas)
• Henri Robert (for Cristalle, Nº19)
• Ernest Beaux (for Nº5, Cuir de Russie, Bois des Iles, Gardénia and Nº22)
• Ernest Daltroff (for the house of Caron)
• Jean Laporte (for founding L'Artisan Parfumeur, the first niche perfume house, and then founding Maître Parfumeur et Gantier)
• Germaine Cellier (for Vent Vert, Bandit, Fracas and for just being awesome)
• Jean-Louis Sieuzac (for Bel Ami, Dune, Opium, Oscar, and Fahrenheit)

CONTEMPORARY
• Annick Menardo (for creating little oddities in the vast sea of sameness)
• Aurelien Guichard (for breathing new life into Piguet and for consistently producing interesting fragrances)
• Andy Tauer (for making fantastic niche fragrances and redefining "indie perfumer")
• Jacques Polge (for creating Antaeus, Bois Noir, Égoïste, Coco, Tiffany for Men, the Chanel Exclusifs, etc.)
• Bernard Chant (for creating a prolific number of superb and interestign fragrances and working as the in-house perfumer of L'Artisan)
• Maurice Roucel (for a great many things, not the least of which is composing Iris Silver Mist)
• Christopher Sheldrake (for 99% of the Lutens line and a hefty portion of the Chanel Exclusifs)
• Mathilde Laurent (her brief stint at Guerlain and Les Heures de Cartier)
• Patricia de Nicolaï (Parfums de Nicolaï and running the Osmotheque)
• Mona di Orio (for crafting heart-achingly beautiful perfumes - RIP)
• Pierre Bourdon (Cool Water, the creation of the Féminité du Bois structure—see Dolce Vita, Green Irish Tweed, and MANY other creations)


These were all that I could think of (I'm sure I missed a few). Impossible to pick one so I tried to list all of the perfumers that I truly admire.

Great info!
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post #24 of 24
2/23/13 at 5:36am
I personally don't care much about the "nose" behind the fragrance, but if I were to pick one:

Oliver Creed

Why? My 2 favorite fragrances:
Aventus
Spice & Wood

And these:
Bois du Portugal
Virgin Island Water
Windsor
Original Cologne
Original Santal
Original Vetiver
Erolfa
Green Irish Tweed
Himalaya
Imperial Millesime (personally not by cup of tea, but quite popular)
Jardin d'Amalfi
Neroli Sauvage
Royal Oud
Silver Mountain Water


And other good ones.

I would bet over 70% of Basenoters would have at least one of these in their top 10. Many would have more than one of these in their list.
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Basenotes › Basenotes Forums › Fragrance Discussion › Male Fragrance Discussion › Do you have a favourite all time perfumer ? If so, who and why ?