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Chanel Les Exclusifs - uninspiring?

post #1 of 35
3/7/13 at 2:18am
Thread Starter 
No offence to anyone who really likes them, but I've been to Selfridges twice and smelled the entire Les Exclusifs range. I found them very synthetic and also.. well, boring. They're named to mean something, but they smell nothing like the name they're given. More importantly, they just smell rather dull. Maybe my nose is unsophisticated compared to many here, but what is it about this range that people like?
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post #2 of 35
3/7/13 at 2:31am
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I'm inclined to agree. I only ever liked Sycomore from that line but ended up selling it on - twice!

I am quite happy though with Egoiste (original, not Platinum). It's easily the most masculine Chanel out there.
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post #3 of 35
3/7/13 at 2:43am
I've not tested some of the more feminine Exclusifs on my skin (and others I've only tested once or twice) but I can speak to the quality of Coromandel, Cuir de Russie and my favourite Sycomore.

Cuir de Russie has a rather feminine vibe that keeps it from being a purchase for me, but I'd love to sample the parfum of it, as I think the leather would be richer and deeper than in the EDT. I like rich and strong leather notes.

The other two, however, are excellent.
I've never smelled anything like Coromandel (I wrote here earlier that I wouldn't compare it to LIDGE), it is strong and long-lasting, but at the same time I feel I could wear it just about anywhere and not feel out of place.
Although I understand the similarities between Sycomore and Encre Noire, the quality of the Chanel is so high that I view them as vastly different fragrances. Where EN is harsh, astringent and very autumnal, Sycomore is rich, smooth and much more versatile.

I still think the Dior Prive line is better as a whole, but that is due, at least in part, to the fact that Dior's whole range is unisex/masculine, where Chanel's is more unisex/feminine. I own both Sycomore and Leather Oud, and if I could only keep one, it'd be Sycomore in a very simple decision.
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post #4 of 35
3/7/13 at 3:18am
I find the line to be extremely well done and anything but boring (exception made for Beige and Gardenia). They all present very classic themes with a perfect execution and the typical Chanel iris touch. Top quality stuff all the way IMO.
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post #5 of 35
3/7/13 at 4:25am
I too find the line on the whole superlative (Beige and Jersey being my exceptions).
There's a certain cool, Parisian chic-ness which runs through most of the perfumes, mirroring well Chanel's famous aesthetic: unfussy and uncluttered.
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post #6 of 35
3/7/13 at 4:36am
I disagree with the original poster. Especially Sycomore and Eau de Cologne are favourites of mine and among the very best in their genres. About being synthetic; there is this common note in both of these that is hard to describe: slightly powdery comfortable white musk-like accord which I find brings depth to Eau de Cologne and softness to Sycomore. This note could be perceived as synthetic.

The greatest and most impressive trick with Sycomore is how it manages to be so unrelentingly smoky and harsh, yet very comfortable and wearable at the same time. It's easy to make a smoky vetiver, it's another thing to make it so balanced.
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post #7 of 35
3/7/13 at 4:43am
I suppose the line may come across a little understated or in your words 'uninspired' for those more accustomed to edgier or bolder styles. I couldn't have said it any better than Alfarom and gandhajala. Totally spot on.
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post #8 of 35
3/7/13 at 4:58am
Thread Starter 
Maybe I tried them at the end of the day when my nose was tired. However, I also sampled some of the Armani exclusives and really quite liked their incense fragrance, so my nose can't have been so tired.
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post #9 of 35
3/7/13 at 5:04am
I agree, they are not terribly special, too watery, sometimes fairly synthetic and mostly too sweet. The Exclusif Parfums are better, but ridiculously priced.
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post #10 of 35
3/7/13 at 7:32am
I find all of them to be extremely well done, and they will all always have a place in my collection.
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post #11 of 35
3/7/13 at 7:43am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post

I suppose the line may come across a little understated or in your words 'uninspired' for those more accustomed to edgier or bolder styles. I couldn't have said it any better than Alfarom and gandhajala. Totally spot on.

Yes, I must be a fragrance peasant! I only like frags that stink the house down.
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post #12 of 35
3/7/13 at 10:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rum View Post

I'm inclined to agree. I only ever liked Sycomore from that line but ended up selling it on - twice!

I am quite happy though with Egoiste (original, not Platinum). It's easily the most masculine Chanel out there.

+1 Totally agree. I actually don't like or rate Chanel very highly (fragrance wise).
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post #13 of 35
3/7/13 at 10:05am
I have and enjoy Coromandel. I dont love the rest of the line, but I haven't tried 1932 yet.
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post #14 of 35
3/7/13 at 11:05am
Some of them have a great deal more character than others. My own taste runs to Cuir de Russie and Bois des Isles. BdI is something I've worn for a long time, and I acknowledge that the current iteration in the Exclusifs is not as strong or complex as it was in the past. My only fix for that has been to acquire the extrait, which remains much as it was.

I do agree that some of the Exclusifs are rather uninspiring. Or they would be more inspiring if they weren't so darn weak! La Pausa, for instance, and Bel Respiro - I would have bought these long ago except that I could not smell them at all upon returning home from the Chanel boutique where I spritzed them on.
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post #15 of 35
3/7/13 at 11:32am
Lines like the Chanel Exclusifs end up suffering from their expansiveness. I was completely overwhelmed by the Les Exclusifs collection when I first came across it (same thing with the Lutens line, Guerlain, Caron, Montale, etc.). It's difficult to know where to start; I ended up trying everything at once and was only really moved by the two that stood out most (Coromandel and Cuir de Russie). A better approach would have been to spend a few days on each fragrance. Everything in the collection (with the exception of Beige and Gardénia) is absolutely beautiful and stunning. These aren't fragrances that reveal themselves immediately, either. They each need time and attention in order to be fully understood and appreciated.

Another hurdle may be a lack of information. I have read that a lot of niche lines have difficulties selling fragrances with abstract names because they just don't have the resources to reach out to consumers. For example, Mona di Orio's first line tanked and was replaced by Les Nombres d'Or, a line in which each fragrance is named after the starring ingredient—the result: an increase in sales. To that end, I think that anyone approaching Chanel's Les Exclusifs for the first time may find themselves in the same predicament—that is, it's difficult to get a grasp on what's what in the Les Exclusifs line. Obviously, Chanel does not face the same hurdles as a niche house (not even close), but the limited distribution and the intentionally manufactured exclusivity end up creating a similar situation for the average consumer.
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post #16 of 35
3/7/13 at 11:42am
I don't think any are crying out to me to buy a bottle, and I've tried at least a half dozen.

I love Chanel's Eau de Cologne, but I don't think it's technically part of the Exclusifs line. I intend to buy a big 6.8 bottle of that one some day.

The rest . . . not bad, but nothing I can't live without.
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post #17 of 35
3/7/13 at 12:10pm
Tried all of them:

Love - Sycomore, Coromandel, Eau de Cologne

Like - Bel Respiro, Bois des Isles

Indifferent - the rest


I think it's a great line even if I don't love them all, at the end of the day it's more quality juice on this planet, and that's got to be a good thing..
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post #18 of 35
3/7/13 at 12:15pm
I only have Coromandel, Sycomore, Bois des Iles, and 31 Rue Cambon. They are probably uninspiring but I love them all.
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post #19 of 35
3/7/13 at 12:31pm
Uninspiring? I can see how you would label them that way, since they are not really edgy or command attention. But I find Sycomore and Eau de Cologne among the best and most perfectly blended fragrances I have ever smelled. If you are looking for something more brash and bold, however, you would certainly be better off looking elsewhere.
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post #20 of 35
3/7/13 at 2:04pm
As others said, you might approached the line expecting something else instead of what they actually are.
Most of them are a must try, not powerhouses, big hitters, panty droppers or anything like that, just perfumery art.
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post #21 of 35
3/7/13 at 4:23pm
Excellent quality from the Chanel Les Exclusifs, i have a few of them and really enjoy it.

would recommend you give Chanel Les Exclusifs a few more go before making your judgement.
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post #22 of 35
3/7/13 at 4:26pm
I love Sycomore. The rest did not really do much for me, with the notable exception of Eau de Cologne that also smells great if all too brief...
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post #23 of 35
3/7/13 at 4:29pm
They are all overpriced and over rated, Diors private collection is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better.
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post #24 of 35
3/7/13 at 5:37pm
Eau de Cologne is the only one I like. EDC is FBW and borders on magical. I'm still trying to like some of the others (I find the 57th Street store to be very gracious about samples - if you actually buy stuff from them). At this point, the rest of the line doesn't do anything for me.

I really wanted to like them so I could line up 3-4 bottles on a shelf and illuminate them, just for the visual. That will not come to pass, it appears, unless, let's say, I get struck by lightning, survive it, and my sense of smell changes.
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post #25 of 35
3/7/13 at 11:11pm
I find them to be perfectly executed, with great ingredients and distinctly Chanel! Only own the Bois des Iles EdT right now, but I am looking to expand my collection with a couple more Les Exclusifs.
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post #26 of 35
3/7/13 at 11:22pm
Chanel's Eau de Cologne from their Les Exclusifs line definitely "inspires" me. My favorite EdC of all of them, including Lorenzo Villoresi and Guerlain.
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post #27 of 35
3/8/13 at 1:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinramani09 View Post

They are all overpriced and over rated, Diors private collection is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better.

Pray tell us how you could have judged this objectively. More often than not it comes down to personal tastes.

And I agree with an earlier poster, you NEED time with each fragrance in order to appreciate them. Sampling the entire line in 2 visits is imho a ridiculous way to make an informed judgment on a line. I used to think Beige is dull but it does bear the Chanel graceful aesthetics, only with greater subtlety. To call a line boasting the likes of Cuir de Russie, Bois des Iles, No. 22, Sycomore, and 31 rue Cambon 'uninspired' is like describing a Picasso piece as wall scribbles. No offense but I'd like to know what the OP's idea of an inspired line is.
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post #28 of 35
3/8/13 at 1:59am
One thing I'd add is that, in conceiving the Exclusifs line, certain of the perfumes that were already in production were reformulated seemingly to fit a new vision. Cuir de Russie was altered drastically from a real butch birchtar + older No.5 combo to a soft, floral leather. Bois des Iles meanwhile, lost much of its gingerbreadiness. I do feel this effort to lend coherence to the collection resulted in a certain homogenisation.
The extraits (being available for those perfumes originally composed by Beaux) remain more individuated.
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post #29 of 35
3/8/13 at 2:56am
To me, the Exclusifs line is more like a lesson in perfume history and a tribute to the legend of Coco Chanel than it is trying to create this new, earth-shattering exclusives line like, say, Tom Ford.
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post #30 of 35
3/8/13 at 3:11am
I own a few, and I like the Cuir & Bois des Iles in Extrait, too. Also own a couple of the Diors. It's not a competition - nice to have choice. I can't get comfortable with either of their Colognes, though - I much prefer the Guerlains, Eau de G, du Coq, Imperiale & Parfumeur.

Jersey & 1932 are both a bit chic for me but I can see the appeal, understated and sophisticated stuff - haven't checked out the new Dior yet.
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post #31 of 35
3/8/13 at 8:03am
I'm not a fan of the vetiver note, but I love Sycomore.

I also love Bois des Iles on my gf. It's a lighter and smoother version of one of my faves, Egoiste.

Coromandel is also a great winter scent and also one of the best patchouli based fragrances.
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post #32 of 35
3/8/13 at 8:43am
So is Chanel the Patek Philippe of the parfum line?
This thread really reminds me of discussions about The Calatrava I've seen on watch forums. Some love the understated luxury, some cannot believe they charge $20,000 for a simple watch which doesn't even hack.
I know it's slightly off topic, but more and more I am thinking I have to buy L'Egoiste.
The scent is calling me, despite only having worn it once.
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post #33 of 35
3/8/13 at 8:53am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHaarlem View Post

I also love Bois des Iles on my gf. It's a lighter and smoother version of one of my faves, Egoiste.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Traditionalist View Post

I know it's slightly off topic, but more and more I am thinking I have to buy L'Egoiste.
The scent is calling me, despite only having worn it once.

I think Egoiste is clearly the best of Chanel line. If you are thinking of buying for it and have already sampled a fresh bottle of it, go for it!! I find it addictive in these cool months.
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post #34 of 35
3/8/13 at 9:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Traditionalist View Post

but more and more I am thinking I have to buy L'Egoiste.
The scent is calling me, despite only having worn it once.

Go for it! Perhaps my all time favorite, and a true Polge pearl!
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post #35 of 35
3/8/13 at 10:04am
Uninspiring is the complete wrong word to use here. I'm not going to stroke off the Exclusifs too much, but some of them are really well made scents. Cuir de Russie is a near magical pull between the masculine and feminine. Bois des Iles is a sweeter and more fluid (if that makes sense) version of Egoiste. Sycomore has an amazing smoke quality that I appreciate even if I don't care for it. Coromandel is my favorite scent amongst the balmies. Smelling them once won't do much for you. These have to be sampled and worn a few times to really get a feel for what they do.

If you walk into the Chanel Exclusifs looking to be blown away at first sniff in the way of Tobacco Vanille and Aventus, you're going to be sorely disappointed.

- - - Updated - - -

Uninspiring is the complete wrong word to use here. I'm not going to stroke off the Exclusifs too much, but some of them are really well made scents. Cuir de Russie is a near magical pull between the masculine and feminine. Bois des Iles is a sweeter and more fluid (if that makes sense) version of Egoiste. Sycomore has an amazing smoke quality that I appreciate even if I don't care for it. Coromandel is my favorite scent amongst the balmies. Smelling them once won't do much for you. These have to be sampled and worn a few times to really get a feel for what they do.

If you walk into the Chanel Exclusifs looking to be blown away at first sniff in the way of Tobacco Vanille and Aventus, you're going to be sorely disappointed.
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