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"Modern" versions of Yatagan, Polo, other old woody/smoky/leathery frags?

post #1 of 23
3/9/13 at 6:31pm
Thread Starter 
I love those old beasts like Yatagan and Polo green but I often run into people who remember those scents, sometimes not fondly, from their high school days or what have you. In the quest for a modern formulation of those old classics I've picked up Malle Bois d'Orage, Chanel Sycomore and Armani Bois d'Encens, which each have different notes of Yatagan/Polo but aren't really modern takes by themselves.

Anyone recommend any modern takes on those old sharp green/leather/pepper/smokey frags? Thanks!
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post #2 of 23
3/9/13 at 6:36pm
Tom Ford Italian Cypress

Amouage Interlude

Amouage Epic

Esencia Loewe
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post #3 of 23
3/9/13 at 6:40pm
I think this has been said about Mr. Blass but I haven't tried that one. I prefer to just stick to the vintage ones rather than see if anyone has recently "reinvented the wheel."
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post #4 of 23
3/9/13 at 7:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post

I think this has been said about Mr. Blass but I haven't tried that one. I prefer to just stick to the vintage ones rather than see if anyone has recently "reinvented the wheel."

I agree about Mr. Blass. I have a bottle and it definitely has that vibe but it doesnt last very long, and its not done nearly as well as the aforementioned frags. Eloge du Traitre by ELDO has a very Yataganish vibe and smells very similar. Bel Ami is another classic although not very "modern" that fits into that genre.
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post #5 of 23
3/9/13 at 8:07pm
+1 for Eloge du Traitre.
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post #6 of 23
3/9/13 at 8:35pm
Funny how most people complain that the old classics have been lightened. In any case, I agree that Bois d'orage would be a great one - unfortunately I am hypersensitive to some molecule there (a woody amber?) which pretty much takes over the composition for me.

I second ELDO. Eloge for green (though it's much lighter and less animalic than Yatagan), and, without green but with more leather and woods, Je suis un homme.

cacio
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post #7 of 23
3/9/13 at 8:45pm
Another for Bois D'Orage.
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post #8 of 23
3/9/13 at 10:38pm
Also:

MPG Parfum d'Habit
Amouage Memoir Man
Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia
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post #9 of 23
3/10/13 at 1:56am
+1 for Memoir Man
DKNY Black Cashmere
Black Tourmaline
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post #10 of 23
3/10/13 at 3:19am
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post #11 of 23
3/10/13 at 3:41am
The modern version of Yatagan is no longer the beast it once was. It is much safer, far less complex and more linear. If you haven't smelled it, you should.
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post #12 of 23
3/10/13 at 3:54am
Tom Ford Extreeme.
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post #13 of 23
3/10/13 at 4:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by usedtowork View Post

I love those old beasts like Yatagan and Polo green but I often run into people who remember those scents, sometimes not fondly, from their high school days or what have you. In the quest for a modern formulation of those old classics I've picked up Malle Bois d'Orage, Chanel Sycomore and Armani Bois d'Encens, which each have different notes of Yatagan/Polo but aren't really modern takes by themselves.

Anyone recommend any modern takes on those old sharp green/leather/pepper/smokey frags? Thanks!

I love Polo Green also, and was in Sophoras yesterday, so I spritzed it "for old time sake" The top notes seem reformulated from when I owned it in 1983. It smells different until dry-down, then it smells just like the vintage. Did they alter it?
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post #14 of 23
3/10/13 at 4:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chasing the Dragon View Post

+1 for Eloge du Traitre.

+2,3,4 and 5!
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post #15 of 23
3/10/13 at 6:59am
N/A
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post #16 of 23
3/10/13 at 7:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diogenes65 View Post

I love Polo Green also, and was in Sophoras yesterday, so I spritzed it "for old time sake" The top notes seem reformulated from when I owned it in 1983. It smells different until dry-down, then it smells just like the vintage. Did they alter it?

Definitely reformulated. Not only is scent different (though not bad), but longevity is a joke now.
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post #17 of 23
4/7/13 at 11:56pm
Not only

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trauerkraut View Post


but also

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post #18 of 23
4/8/13 at 2:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post

The modern version of Yatagan is no longer the beast it once was. It is much safer, far less complex and more linear. If you haven't smelled it, you should.

David,
Do you have an idea what specifically has changed? And when? My bottle is about 7-8 years old and doesn't seem a beast (other than some castoreum)
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post #19 of 23
4/8/13 at 8:31am
Up to certain extents:

TDH Parfum
Creed OV
Knize Forest
Most EDPs by Boucheron (including, to a certain extent, pour Homme)
Fahrenheit Absolue and, also by Dior, Eau Sauvage EDP
Caractere by Daniel Hechter
Opus 1870 by Penhaligons
Guuerlain Homme Eau Boisee
YSL Rive Gauche Intense
Gucci Nobile
Chevignon Brand for Men
Spazio Krizia by Krizia
Boss Elements
YSL Opium pour Homme EDP


However, my recommendations are very approximate and marginal ones, but this was the closest I could get to more modern, more fashionable interpretations of classic scents which have either at least one of the woody, smoky and/or leathery element, if not most or all of them.

Additional cautiousness recommended because: apart from being, in most of the cases, "mandatory testing scents" (buying most of them blind could easily turn to hit-and-miss), also, while some remain modern while still being "down and dirty" (in terms of leathery, smoky notes), others on my list may be a shock first, due to their almost soapy cleanliness, even if they successfully retain one or more woody, smoky, leathery feature.
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post #20 of 23
4/8/13 at 8:45am
Leather and Tobacco, paired with a fruity opening and spicy heartnotes. Varvatos Vintage.
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post #21 of 23
4/8/13 at 9:23am
Chanel Sycomore
Puredistance M
Histoires de Parfums 1740

For the most part many of the vintage fragrances are gourmet food, and anything attempting to resemble them now is just another variety of fast food.
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post #22 of 23
4/8/13 at 10:11am
Nasomatto Duro!
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post #23 of 23
4/12/13 at 1:44am
At the bargain of those classics... i would take them. Designer pearls are rare nowadays.
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