Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

There are LOADS of open source demo formula's available from the big 5, all very easily searchable here:
http://www.perfumersearch.com/index....id=12&Itemid=9

Hi Jeroen,

Sharing is always good!

The thing I personally like about those demo formulas is that they offer a free way to really learn how to formulate like pro's do. And many materials can be substituted freely, thus giving space to experimenting. Like using the FO's you mention on your blog. Those are nice tools if you want to simplify such a demo.

An example

Accord N° 207808 ROSE (Firmenich)
Application: Alcoholic solution: 5.00% ; Cream: 0.30% ; Detergent powder: 0.15% ; Shampoo: 0.50%
The effectiveness of small amounts of DAMASCONE ALPHA is wonderfully demonstrated by this simple rose accord. It adds a completeness associated with natural rose, increases diffusion, richness, and gives a soft petal-like character.
For Fragrance Only
\t10.00\tALDEHYDE C11 UNDECYLENIC 10%
\t20.00\tALDEHYDE C12 LAURIC 10%
\t50.00\tAMYL PHENYLACETATE
\t480.00\tCITRONELLOL
\t20.00\tEUGENOL
\t50.00\tGERANIOL
\t120.00\tLINALOL
\t10.00\tNEROL
\t200.00\tPHENYLETHYL ALCOHOL
\t10.00\tROSE OXIDE
\t30.00\tDAMASCONE ALPHA (Firmenich) 10%
\t1000.00\tTotal

AMYL PHENYLACETATE can be for example replaced by upping the geraniol and rose oxide or adding a bit of aurantiol, same with DAMASCONE ALPHA (Firmenich) or adding a bit of rose otto or rose absolute. Or even one of those Rose FO's

Just my opinion though!

Happy formulating!

The good scents company also has sample formulas for each ingredient if you look in the green band where it says flavour/fragrance formulas.

Here is a link for raspberry dicarboxylate for instance.

Accord N° 208902 WOODY ORIENTAL (Firmenich)
This woody, oriental men's fragrance gains a sparkling topnote and added diffusion / complexity with the addition of FRUCTALATE�. The aromatic notes are enhanced to give depth and complexity to the fragrance.

10.00\tCETALOX® (Firmenich)
\t100.00\tCEDRENOL
\t20.00\tCOUMARIN
\t10.00\tDAMASCONE ALPHA (Firmenich) 10%
\t130.00\tDIHYDROMYRCENOL
\t100.00\tHABANOLIDE® (Firmenich)
\t160.00\tHEDIONE® (Firmenich)
\t30.00\tHELVETOLIDE® (Firmenich)
\t200.00\tISO E SUPER® (IFF)
\t10.00\tLAVANDIN OIL
\t50.00\tLEMON OIL
\t50.00\tLINALYL ACETATE
\t40.00\tMAYOL® (Firmenich)
\t10.00\tMUSCENONE™ (Firmenich)
\t10.00\tVANILLIN
\t50.00\tNORLIMBANOL™ 10% MIP (Firmenich)
\t20.00\tFRUCTALATE™ (Firmenich)
\t1000.00\tTotal

Just oodles there. I think the chap/lady who invented that site needs a perfumers medal.

PS nice thread. Good idea.

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For something more simple. There are some easier beginner recipes here.

All stuff can be subbed. Just look up the chemical and see what it smells like and use the nearest you have to it. Smell the result then adapt your own.

Take the 0's off for drop sized recipes and dilute further when smaller than a drop is needed. So if 1 drop is in a 10% solution, then 0.5 of a drop can be 5 drops of a 0.1% dilution = 0.5 of one drop. Easy peasy pudding. Just go for it and make a smelly mess and have fun.

OK so here is one of mine, its not a personal perfume but designed for use in a reed diffuser. I made a small batch and sold / gave them away one Christmas:

Base notes (total 233)
Benzoin Liquid Oil\t 30\t
Hedione\t10\t
Olibanum\t140\t
Vetiver\t50\t
Ethyl vanillin\t3\t

Middle notes (total 173)\t\t
Calone (10%)\t12\t
Floralozone\t2\t
Galbanum couer\t2\t
Orange Power (2%)\t7\t
Petitgrain\t150\t

Top Notes (total 594)\t\t
Bergamot\t300\t
Grapefruit\t186\t
Lime\t70\t
Orange\t38\t

Total concentrate:\t1000

Notes
If I was doing it again I'd use less base notes (though it's arguable whether olibanum EO or Hedione are base notes rather than middle notes), the benzoin was bought from a soap making supplier and is probably the resinoid at around 20% in DPG - not the sort of thing I use these days - now I'd skip that add a bit more hedione and use some vanillin instead.

You could reduce the cost by replacing some of the olibanum with lemongrass, but the scent will have less depth and sophistication.

The preponderance of top notes reflects the intended use in a reed diffuser: it would certainly not make a compliant fragrance for personal use, but stayed lovely and fresh to the last in use, which was the idea.

If you're not familiar with the Givaudan product Orange Power it's worth investigating: as you can see I used only a tiny amount here and at that level it gives a very good, lasting orange note in combination with the real citrus. Use too much and it can smell very synthetic and even vomit-like so it needs careful dosing.

Very cool idea jsparla, and thks for the additional info Chris and Mumsy...
I have been looking for resources from which to begin mixing work, and I started out using the Givaudin formulas (the first I chose, the Amber Musk, I have to say was a big disappointment, but the second, Green Leaf Accord, was amazing.) In the latter case, I has already learned from my previous overzealousness and was more cautious about adding some ingredients that seemed suspiciously strong to me.

What's interesting about any formulas is that they're a great place to begin and then reduce/add/change from their - this has been the way I've been learning through practice, so formulas are huge.

Thanks!
J

OK here are two of my very early attempts. Both contain 'Fragrant Oils', which I no longer use, except in these two blends because I can't come up with suitable replacements from my synthetics that I've acquired since. If anyone can tell me how to make a 'Black Musk', 'Honey' or 'Rainforest' from synthetics I'd be forever in your debt!

MARRAKESH
Bergamot (Calabrian) Essential Oil 39
Rosewood Essential Oil 10
Tangerine Essential Oil 10
Jasmine Fragrant Oil 8
Rose Garden Fragrant Oil 19
Rose Geranium Essential Oil 10
Benzoin Siam Macerated Oil (50%) 58
Black Musk 19
Honey Fragrant Oil 19
Labdanum Absolute (50%) 31
Oak Moss Absolute (25%) 16
Patchouli Essential Oil 10
Sandalwood (2x distilled) Essential Oil 19
Vanilla 10 fold Oleoresin (50%) 23
Ylang Ylang Essential Oil 10
Total: 300

CALABRIA
Bergamot (Calabrian) Essential Oil 13
Lemon Cold Pressed Essential Oil 15
Petitgrain Essential Oil 6
Sweet Orange Essential Oil 15
Tangerine Essential Oil 6
Geranium Essential Oil 21
Honeysuckle Fragrant Oil 11
Michelia Alba Essential Oil 8
Neroli Fragrant Oil 32
Benzoin Siam Macerated Oil (50%) 67
Black Musk 8
Jasmine Fragrant Oil 11
Labdanum Absolute (50%) 34
Oak Moss Absolute (25%) 17
Rainforest Fragrant Oil 21
Vanilla 10 fold Oleoresin (50%) 8
Vetiver Essential Oil (25%) 8
Total: 300

Both of these blends benefit enormously from allowing to stand for several weeks/months. All the floral fragrant oils are from New Directions. The other fragrant oils are from various, often dubious(!) sources. Now that I'm far more 'knowledgable', I've tried substituting the real things, like rose and jasmine absolutes, neroli EO, mixtures of synthetic musks to replace the 'Black Musk FO' but cannot replicate these original formulae. So I'm letting them stand as they are, reluctantly. Experiment, adjust and enjoy!

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Hi Chris, and thanks for your contribution (this could be a great thread!). Just curious about "Orange Power" by Givaudan. Could I substitute Oranger Crystals or Aurantiol? If so, could you suggest proportions?

I feel sure I've seen that layout somewhere before . . .

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On the Black Musk, have you tried Tonquitone? I'm assuming that it's fairly animalic. . . If you don't have that, try adding some civet, para-croesol phenyl acetate and indole to your musks blend (traces in all three cases).

Both oranger crystals and aurantiol are orange-flower substitutes, while Orange Power is more like orange oil (though vastly stronger) so I don't think either would be a replacement. Octanal would be an alternative that is widely available and also very strong, though much more waxy than Orange Power.

This is my new man scent MAmber, because "man likes amber."
I'm planning to sell this one at the markets; just trying to extend the longevity. I want to add a little Myrr too, but alas I do not have it in my collection yet! If it had that and a rum note, I imagine it would smell similar to Rocawear Evolution.

Jeroen, just go to the supermarket or bin-inn and get a small handful of fresh roasted coffee beans. Tincture them at 50% in alcohol, they will be done(ish) in a week! Same with the All Spice! Cacao is definitely optional in this I got mine as a free sample from eden botanicals when I bought some absolutes from them - smells just like dark chocolate.