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Help ! Citrus-Green-woody fragrance reccomandations

post #1 of 44
Thread Starter 
Hello everyone.
I' m here asking you for reccomandations about a fragrance. This fragrance could be my everyday signature fragrance:
I' m looking for an invigorating perfume, very involving and confortable, like an aerial bowl that sourrounds me, giving me confidence and positivity.
I' m thinking about fresh ans sparkling citrus top notes, aromatic and involving green middle notes, and a warm woody base note. I would like this combinatin this way :
-classy but not too formal or old fashioned
-more niche than disigner but nothing too abstract.
-Very aerial and breathy, fizzy citrus, gold sparkling
- Power invigorating and a little balsamic (green aromatic).
-Warm and confident confortable wood

I don' t want :
-Not at all aquatic
-Not at all fruity
-Not at all gourmand

Possible just a bit :
-Floral : as less as possible or nothing
-Smokiness : as less as possible or nothing
-Incense : very few
-Leather : just a little is possible
-Oriental or spice : just a little is possible

we can found inspiration and comparison in the classic colognes, and maybe in some fougeres from the '80s ( more woody than fougere is better) .

My main fragrance nowadays is Creed Original Vetiver. I love it. I find it very classy and elegant in a modern way. But I find it too clean and well mannered, and too soapy barber shop. It lacks some energy and wildness. The same I can say about Mugler Cologne. I' m looking for something more powerful, sexy, invigorating, wild, involving.

Guerlain Vetiver : a classic. I like the green note, the fresh opening and the warm base. But I hate that old feeling, maybe because of the tobacco or leather. I don' t like the new formula too. I can say the same about Tom Ford Grey Vetiver.

Givenchy Vetiver : too old fashion

MPG Route du Vetiver : too strong and rooty

Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire : nothing special

Lalique Encre Noir : very nice, but way too smoky and too much liquorice. Sycomore Chanel the same.

Terre d' Hermes : very involving but too strong and too earthy...I can' t breath !!! The same about Montale Red Vetiver

Comme des Garcons Cologne : Vettiveru : nice Cytrus , but too few green and weak woods.

Comme des garcons 2 Man : too much incense. The same about Gucci PH and Marte Battistoni, and Le Labo Vettyver too

Creed neroli savage : too much on the cytrus side

Annik Goutal, l' eau d' adrien ecc... : too much on the cytrus side

Annik Goutal Encense flaboyant : too much incense, too much pine

Chanel Allure, all the formulations : too ordinary, too casual, not sexy, too less green

Cartier Declaration : very nice and classy. Some sexy. Could be an option, but It was my signature scent in the '90s and I want something else.

Versace green jeans : nice and sexy ! but too much on the cheap side

Diesel fuel for life : nice and sexy ! but too much on the cheap side

Abercombie and Fitch Fierce : too ordinary

Escentic Molecules 1 : very very nice !!! But on my skin is weak and not sexy....!

Escentric 3 : ?



And now, let's take a look about those glory from the '80s....

Giorgio Armani pour homme : nice cytrus opening and nice woods, very classy and polite. Too polite...and too floral. It lacks sexy and green. Givenchy Monsieur the same

YSL Kourus : way too dirthy.

Pino Silvestre : invigorating and wild, but too on the cheap side. ordinary and rude.

Azzaro pour Homme : great woods, nice cytrus, but too much on the fougere side

Missoni pour Homme : discontinued. Wonderful woods, nice cytrus ( a little weak) and some little nice fougere and spice. Very involving . Great fragrance

Cacharel Pour homme : nice sweet woods, nice spice. Very involving

Dior Eau Savage : great fizzy, sunny, sparkling cytrus opening. It lacks some green and some wood.

So, I' m looking for a classy and at the same time sexy and involving fragrance : sparkling gold and breathy cytrus openig, aromatic involving and invigorating geen middle base, warm and confortable wood base.
In a classy but modern and sexy way.

In here waiting for your kind reccomandations.

Thank you,
Marco

Ciao !!!
post #2 of 44
The first fragrance that came to mind is Rochas Moustache, although it does not meet all of your qualifications (you have several, so I don't know that any one fragrance would).
post #3 of 44
Malle's French Lover (a.k.a. Bois D'orage) (maybe not enough citrus)

or Creed Bois du Portugal (maybe not modern enough)
post #4 of 44
Dear friend, I think that you are looking for Xerjoff Casamorati Fiero.
post #5 of 44
I have a number of this type of frag in my wardrobe. Check these out for sure.

Jo Malone Amber & Lavender -- don't let the name fool you, not much amber here
Boss Sport
Byblos Uomo
Eau de Guerlain
Eau de Rochas Homme
Eau des 4 Voleurs
(hard to find)
Envy for Men
Esencia Loewe
Z-14
(pre-2011)
Laura Tonatto Iss
Lomani pH
M Generation
Men Pure-formance
Monsieur Leonard
Photo
(I only have vintage, not sure how reformulated is)
Selection Verte
Sud Est
Trefle Pur
Tsar
Vendetta pH
Zino Davidoff
post #6 of 44
Nu Green by Honore Des Pres
post #7 of 44
I would love to know as well. I've been wanting to sample bois d'orage.
post #8 of 44
This is what you really need:

Esencia Loewe
post #9 of 44
Chanel Pour Monsieur
Homme de Gres
post #10 of 44
No one's mentioned Derby? Get Derby.

(Guerlain)
post #11 of 44
Thread Starter 
Great suggestions, guys...! Thank you !

I would like to punctualize : this fragrance I'm looking for has to be not barber-shop like or "victorian" ( as many Creeds or Floris), but has to be masculine and sexy in a sunny and mediterranean way. Something like a "classy macho". Not a old fashioned inoffensive gentlemen...
Wild seductive, without being rude or cheap ordinary.
In this way, I find Guerlein Vetiver original version vintage to be a good exaple of what I mean, but it's tobacco-leather note makes this fragrance too Grandfather-like.
Escentric 1 could be a modern example, but on my skin it becomes floral, and I dont like this shift. ( When I smell Escentric 1 on other people skin, I get crazy ...!!! And I adore it !! On my skin it doesn't work )...It would be my dream perfume, if it could work that way on my skin...

It has to be the allure of a 30-40 y.o. seductive man, classy, sporty, indipendent and masculine in a straight way. Not victorian dandism at all or an old gentleman.
Reminding golf courts in a sunny mediterranean country, white immaculate shirt ( not polo) and classy loafers shoes .
Gin tonic at the golf clubhouse at a summer golden sunset.
And a warm tanned skin, expanding in the air a sparkling golden cytrus ( breathy) , involving aromatic green ( invigorating) , confident and seductive warm and sweet wood magic fragrance.
post #12 of 44
Perhaps you could try some of the newer Guerlain Homme line.
post #13 of 44
Ormonde Man
post #14 of 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by marco1 View Post

I would like to punctualize : this fragrance I'm looking for has to be not barber-shop like or "victorian" ( as many Creeds or Floris), but has to be masculine and sexy in a sunny and mediterranean way. Something like a "classy macho". Not a old fashioned inoffensive gentlemen...
Wild seductive, without being rude or cheap ordinary.
In this way, I find Guerlein Vetiver original version vintage to be a good exaple of what I mean, but it's tobacco-leather note makes this fragrance too Grandfather-like.
Escentric 1 could be a modern example, but on my skin it becomes floral, and I dont like this shift. ( When I smell Escentric 1 on other people skin, I get crazy ...!!! And I adore it !! On my skin it doesn't work )...It would be my dream perfume, if it could work that way on my skin...

It has to be the allure of a 30-40 y.o. seductive man, classy, sporty, indipendent and masculine in a straight way. Not victorian dandism at all or an old gentleman.
Reminding golf courts in a sunny mediterranean country, white immaculate shirt ( not polo) and classy loafers shoes .
Gin tonic at the golf clubhouse at a summer golden sunset.
And a warm tanned skin, expanding in the air a sparkling golden cytrus ( breathy) , involving aromatic green ( invigorating) , confident and seductive warm and sweet wood magic fragrance.

This is why I did not recommend Derby or Chanel pM, for example. They are kind of grandfatherly to me.
post #15 of 44
To me Derby is not grandfatherly, at least not the new formultation. Even though it is a chypre, I do think it is all that Green. Maybe a little
post #16 of 44
Welcome. Perhaps you could try Etat Libre d'Orange Eloge d'un traitre. It's more green than citrusy, and has been described as a modern, tamed Yatagan.

The current Aramis Tuscany per uomo has a nice aromatic breeziness, but again, perhaps not too much citrus up top.

You could also repurpose a green chypre for the occasion. Green chypres have citrus, green, and a mossy drydown. Perhaps Cristalle eau verte? (the regular has a sharp galbanum that perhaps is not what you are looking for). And the most relaxed, citrusy green chypre of them all, Ormonde Jayne Tiare. Regrettably available only in London.

cacio
post #17 of 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foustie View Post

Dear friend, I think that you are looking for Xerjoff Casamorati Fiero.

This is more of the green chypre that you are seeking.
post #18 of 44
Try Polo (original), too.
post #19 of 44
Try Azuree.
post #20 of 44
+1 Trefle Pur, which I'm wearing as I type. I think it navigates your criteria rather well, without being an overt citrus. Maybe also Eau Sauvage edp.
post #21 of 44
Maybe also Versace l'Homme
post #22 of 44
You have described a pressing need for a bottle of Tom Ford Italian Cypress, and jolly good it is too.


Bois du Portugal would be my alternative suggestion.
post #23 of 44
I don't know if you will find what you are looking for in these, but I would sniff:

Le Labo Bergamote 22
Monsieur de Givenchy
Chanel Sycomore
L'Artisan Timbuktu
Hermes Jardin line - there are 4 of them
post #24 of 44
I would try Villoresi's Uomo, Eau d'Ikar by Sisley and Balafre by Lancome.
post #25 of 44
YSL pour Homme
Cartier Pasha
de Nicolai Baladin
post #26 of 44
Granville (Dior)

This has quite a classic feel - a sort of convergence of the briskness of vintage Eau Sauvage and the pine of Pino Sylvestre reworked in a modern way and given some 'legs'. It also has a slightly 'garrigue' quality - windblown shrubs and wild plants sorta thing.

It does not contain any of the shitty musks or cheap 'cedar/woods' you find in so many so called 'modern masculines'. It currently has oak moss listed, as well, which beautifully rounds out the green aspects with some 'earth' but this may change if IFRA/EU regulations get worse.

In other words, it's a below the radar modern classic just waiting to get f***** up by the EU - if you like it get the 500ml
post #27 of 44
I second both Malle French Lover and Chanel Sycomore - both fantastic!
post #28 of 44
I recommend that you try Citrus & Wood by Yardley!

http://www.basenotes.net/ID26132240.html
post #29 of 44
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SillageMonger View Post

I recommend that you try Citrus & Wood by Yardley!

http://www.basenotes.net/ID26132240.html

I don' t like Terre D' Hermes...

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:
Originally Posted by treeman5823 View Post

Try Polo (original), too.

Polo...the green bottle...
pros : masculine, green, warm, involving
cons : some old, not breathing, maybe too much leather

It would be nice a much brighter version

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post

Granville (Dior)

This has quite a classic feel - a sort of convergence of the briskness of vintage Eau Sauvage and the pine of Pino Sylvestre reworked in a modern way and given some 'legs'. It also has a slightly 'garrigue' quality - windblown shrubs and wild plants sorta thing.

It does not contain any of the shitty musks or cheap 'cedar/woods' you find in so many so called 'modern masculines'. It currently has oak moss listed, as well, which beautifully rounds out the green aspects with some 'earth' but this may change if IFRA/EU regulations get worse.

In other words, it's a below the radar modern classic just waiting to get f***** up by the EU - if you like it get the 500ml

Very very very interesting...
post #30 of 44
Loewe Essencia
Armani Eau PH
post #31 of 44
I'd recommend you try amazingreen by CdG. Maybe it is what you look for
post #32 of 44
Lancome Miracle L'Aquatonic.
post #33 of 44
If you can't find the perfect blend you're looking for, take advantage of the fact that there are a ton of good simple citrus and a ton of good green/woody frags out there, and simply layer the ones you like. I put a squirt of Polo and a few squirts of Pamplemousse Rose together the other day and it smelled great to me; pine and leather on the bottom with grapefruit and just a hint of floral rose on top.
post #34 of 44
Lorenzo Villoresi Uomo is really good but I believe your search would end with Xerjoff Fiero. Seriously.
post #35 of 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post

Granville (Dior)

This has quite a classic feel - a sort of convergence of the briskness of vintage Eau Sauvage and the pine of Pino Sylvestre reworked in a modern way and given some 'legs'. It also has a slightly 'garrigue' quality - windblown shrubs and wild plants sorta thing.

It does not contain any of the shitty musks or cheap 'cedar/woods' you find in so many so called 'modern masculines'. It currently has oak moss listed, as well, which beautifully rounds out the green aspects with some 'earth' but this may change if IFRA/EU regulations get worse.

In other words, it's a below the radar modern classic just waiting to get f***** up by the EU - if you like it get the 500ml

+1 Beat me to it. This is wonderful as it is now.
Xerjoff's Fiero is lovely also but a bit greener than Granville.
post #36 of 44
Paul Smith Story
Paradox Green
Paco Rabanne pour Homme
Prada Infusion de Vetiver
+1 for Esencia Loewe
post #37 of 44
Thread Starter 
Comme des garcons amazigreen : I don't like it.

- - - Updated - - -

I dont' like it

- - - Updated - - -

LV uomo is a great composition, but i find it too formal

- - - Updated - - -

Wow, I'm very happy to receive all your kind reply, that's great ! Thank you !

From what you are suggesting me, I guess my attention will be at Xerjoff Fiero, Dior Granville , Esencia Loewe, Dior Eau Savage extreme, Tom Ford Italian Cypress.

How do these fragrances relate to Escentric Molecules 1 ?

- - - Updated - - -

And what about Trophee Lancome ?

- - - Updated - - -

And what about Trophee Lancome ?
post #38 of 44
Thread Starter 
I tested yesterday Vettiveru by Commes des Garcons...GREAT !
Is it !!!
post #39 of 44
TDC Tokyo Bloom
Hermes Sur le Toit
Voyage d' Hermes
Eau d' Ikar
Scent One Hinoki
Scent One Laurel
L' Occitane pour Homme
L'Occitane Vetiver
Bois d' Orage
Bang
post #40 of 44
Creed Royal Oud. Citrus? Light on it. Green? I get a very prominent green note in the middle. Woody base? Check!
post #41 of 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by marco1 View Post

Comme des Garcons Cologne : Vettiveru : nice Cytrus , but too few green and weak woods.

Quote:
Originally Posted by marco1 View Post

I tested yesterday Vettiveru by Commes des Garcons...GREAT !
Is it !!!

...
post #42 of 44
eau d'orange verte
mugler cologne
post #43 of 44
Thread Starter 
@Luca
...sorry, in the first post about vettiveru, I was intended to speak about Mugler Cologne. I use almost everyday MC , very nice and easy, and I wanted to find a more earthy and woody version....I found this in Vettiveru, as it was in my "waiting to test" list....
post #44 of 44

I third Eau d'Ikar

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