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Your favourite varieties of vetiver?

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
So, what are your favourite varieties of vetiver and why?

At the moment, mine are:

Bourbon - creamy woody-green bliss
Javanese - smoky, masculine and a real compliment-getter
Rhus Khas (Indian) - unique in its olfactory tone and with an amazing dark green hue
Sri Lankan - very woody but somewhat redolent of the Bourbon variety
post #2 of 9
Nice group!

Haitian Vetiver from White Lotus Aromatics has been my favourite so far, but I am still on the lookout for a more refined, suave vetiver, without the earthy, musty top-notes. The late drydown in this one is beautiful - it reminds me of Givenchy's Vetiver, or maybe even a little bit like Serge Lutens' Vetiver Oriental. It has a good complexity. I mentioned in another thread that it's similar to the Vetiveryl Acetate sold at Perfumer's Apprentice. And I think it's relatively cheap too - maybe worth putting a bottle away to age?

I also have two different Ruh Khus's and they are very interesting, sometimes I love them, but sometimes they can feel a bit medicinal or harsh. The colour is even more beautiful when you dilute those in alcohol. Apparently it's from the copper stills.

I recently got some Bourbon Vetiver too from Hermitage which is really nice, quite similar to the Haitian, but I would say not as good.

The very first vetiver oil I got nearly put me off the note for good. It was from Java, very strong, somehow sugary (like whiskey I suppose), dirty and earthy.

Next I want to get some of the root itself to see how it smells. I just recently read that it used to be tinctured in alcohol. Might be worth trying...
post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
Welcome, Renegade!

Yes, Haitian vetiver is one of the easiest to like because it’s not as earthy or smoky as most of the other varieties. Unfortunately, it doesn’t agree with my skin (it goes sour or off after a short while).

I won’t say anything about Vetiveryl Acetate as I haven’t tried this aroma chemical and have no wish to. These vetiver substitutes are far from being as complex as the real thing.

It’s really funny but the first thing that came into my head, when trying to image vetiver essential oil several years ago, was the colour of Ruh Khus. I have no idea why that occurred. Maybe a near long-forgotten memory dwelling in my sub-consciousness? The best one I’ve tried is from Ajmal but this type can sometimes be difficult to obtain. But, yes, copper stills is the cause of the (dis)colouration of the oil.

As for Hermitage, I know nothing about this company. I’m assuming you bought both the Bourbon and Javanese from them? If so, I think you should try another seller just to be absolutely sure that it wasn’t a case of poor quality oils. The best I’ve tried of these two varieties were from Aqua Oleum. I highly recommend this company!

I know you didn’t like the Javanese variety but I have to confess that I didn’t start appreciating its qualities until I had worn almost 5ml of the stuff on and off. Now, I just can’t get enough of it! Even if such an exercise fails to cause a u-turn, I think it would be very important to get used to the smoky variety, if only for educational purposes.

Reading your post, I think you should give Sri Lankan vetiver a try – very little smokiness, slightly green but very smooth.
post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 
Renegade,

I’ve recently been purchasing some oils from Hermitage and have had a good experience on both occasions. Although I’ve never tried their vetiver EOs, I have tried other oils that are also obtainable from Aqua Oleum (which I also obtained around the same time).

After comparing the two sets of oils, I can certainly vouch for the quality of Hermitage. However, overall, the oils from Aqua Oleum have a significant edge over the ones from Hermitage. From both companies, I’ve tried their Bulgarian Lavender, Lavender Absolute and Atlas Cedar, and I much prefer the Aqua Oleum offerings.

So, in saying that, I would recommend that you try the Aqua Oleum vetiver EOs as well.
post #5 of 9
How interesting. Thanks Trebor, I'll have to give Aqua Oleum a try sometime. I see they have the Bourbon back in stock.
post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 
No worries, Renegade.

Let me know your impressions when you get them.
post #7 of 9
Great theme for a group! I'm no expert but have just added my takes on haitian vetiver oil I picked up on a recent trip there, and on Indian "Khus oil" which I think is the same as Ruh or ruhul khus (ruh just means soul or essence in arabic and hindi, and by extension, I think, oil).

Of the two I have to go for the Haitian as will be evident by my "review". It's wonderfully complex stuff.

I'm new to basenotes and while my perfume knowledge is slowly broadening, I came to it pretty much exclusively through vetiver. I would love to find a perfume that came close to Haitian vetiver eo. There are a lot of wonderful vetiver fragrances out there but, perhaps quite rightly, none of them quite get the intangible depth of the dry-down or the dark, earthiness of the opening.
post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 
Hi, AlHamr. Welcome to Basenotes!

I really wished Haitian vetiver worked on my skin but it tends to go weird after a little while. However, most of the varieties of vetiver tried so far are a lot more rich and complex than most of vetiver fragrances available.

How you tried Vetiver Front by LesNez? I think you'd really like this one. Unfortunately, it was a limited edition and may be difficult to acquire now but it may be on the sales board. If you'd like to sample, try The Perfumed Court.
post #9 of 9
Trebor, yes, I do have a bottle of Vetiver Front, just joined by one of Back too - lucky me! I agree it (Front) is about the closest thing to vetiver oil that comes with a sprayer attached. The treatment seems to me to play up the natural richness of the vetiver - I think the coconut and amber notes are mainly responsible for this - to the point that it becomes a little fruity, almost boozy. The contrasting rougher elements of the eo, particularly the iodine and woody notes (here I'm particularly thinking of my Haitian sample) are toned down accordingly. While I really like Front, I do miss these contrasts a little as I think they're a major part of the character of the EO - all gold and no grit.

Back, by the way, seems very similar to me - I think I'd have to try them side by side to mark the differences - all for the sake of science, of course!.
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