Code of Conduct
Page 1 of 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 184
  1. #1

    Default Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    This primer is provided in order to help those desiring to try their hand at the art of perfume-making.

    What is perfume?
    The word perfume is derived from the Latin perfume, meaning "through smoke." The art of perfumery was known to the ancient Chinese, Hindus, Egyptians, Israelites, Carthaginians, Arabs, Greeks, and Romans. References to perfumery materials and even perfume formulas are found in the Bible. The burning of incense in religious rites of ancient China, Palestine, and Egypt led gradually to the personal use of perfume known as attars, widespread in ancient Greece and Rome. During the Middle Ages Crusaders brought knowledge of perfumery to Europe from the East. After 1500 Paris was the major center of perfume-making.

    Perfume consists of fragrance oils diluted in a carrier agent. Pure natural oils are too concentrated for use directly on to the skin.

    -----

    WARNING: Why can I not use undiluted fragrance oils on the skin?
    Natural fragrance oils (absolute and essential) are quite powerful and should NEVER be used in undiluted form on the skin. At a minimum, they can be irritating; at a maximum they can cause serious health hazards.

    For safety, you should:
    - Keep oils out of the reach children.
    - Do not eat or use oils in foods or mix in food containers or with food utensils.
    - Maintain absolute hygiene, cleaning up spillages on you or any surface immediately
    - Remember that Perfumes contain materials that will damage plastic and furniture sufaces and cause irritation

    -----

    What are these "fragrance oils" that I'm supposed to use?
    Perfume uses three types of oils:
    1) Essential Oils - from natural plant materials such as distilled or extracted from flowers, leaves, woods or grasses. (eg. Lavender Oil, Jasmin Absolute)
    2) Aroma chemicals - (chemicals with smells) either seperated from essential oils or from chemical sources such as the crude oil industry (eg. pinene,benzene)
    3) Animal products - from animal secretions (only 4 used : the Civet cat, the Castoreum beaver, the Musk deer and Ambergris from the Sperm Whale)

    You can use both "essential" and "absolute" oils. Essential oils are highly volatile plant essences, produced primarily by steam distillation, or sometimes by cold pressing or by CO2 extraction (although CO2 oils are strictly considered a separate class of oil.) These oils contain the aromatic molecules of the plant. In contrast, the absolute oils are solvent extracted and may have traces of solvents left in them. Both of these oils are 100% natural.

    Generally, absolute oils are more "intense" with the aroma of the plant and are preferable for perfumes. However, both kinds of oils can be used.
    -----

    What should I use as a Carrier agent?
    Carrier agents are usually alcohol, sometimes mixed with distilled water, or a natural fragance-free oil. There are pros and cons to using alcohol as a carrier agent in contrast to a natural oil.

    Most perfumes use alcohol as the carrier agent. Alcohol, by nature of its evaporative properties, will "carry" the fragrance more quickly and powerfully away from the body. Because of its inherent disinfectant properties, it will also preserve much longer on the shelf than perfume that uses a natural oil as the carrier agent.

    On the other hand, a natural-oil carrier will be more sutble and actually has greater staying power on the skin as the fragrance oil is not as quickly being evaporated off the skin. However, perfumes that use natural oil as the carrier will eventually turn rancid. Neverthless, they are a good alternative for people that may be alcohol-sensitive.

    The most common natural oil used as a carrier agent in perfumes is probably Jojoba Oil. Fractionated coconut oil can also be used; both oils known for long life so that rancidity should not be a problem

    Alcohol, if used as the carrier agent, should be as pure as possible. Choices for alcohol in order of preference are:

    1) Perfumers alcohol (very expensive and difficult to come by)
    2) pure grain alcohol (i.e., "Everclear" pure grain alcohol which you can buy in most licquor stores)
    3) Vodka (the highest proof you can find)

    Note: do NOT use rubbing alcohol!

    -----

    Where can I buy my natural fragance oils?
    Almost all commercial perfumes use synthetic fragrance oils because they are much cheaper than natural oils and it is easer to guarantee a consistency of scent. On the other hand, no synthetic oil can match the beauty and aroma of a natural oils. (This helps explain why Creed is so expensive!)

    Unless you're planing to create perfume in mass bulk for worldwide marketing, I suggest you use natural oils. Your perfume will be much higher quality.

    The quality of your perfume is proportional to the quality of the fragrance oils you use. Cheap oil = cheap perfume.

    There are several excellent on-line sources online that ship all over the world. Do an internet search for "perfume absolute oils". Most reputable aromatherapy shops sell good quality fragrance oils

    I would order a couple of test orders from a new source, before buying in bulk, to determine quality. Oils should also be shipped in dark bottles (never transparent) with restrictor caps. Never buy oils from a source that stores (or ships!) oils with rubber dropper caps - the rubber will contaminate the oils.

    In the U.S., Bath & Body works has started selling pure absolute oils this year From what I've seen, the oil quality is good and the prices are reasonable. This is as good a place to start building an oil collection as any.

    -----

    How much do the oils cost?
    Some oils, like lemon and cedarwood are relatively inexpensive. Other oils, like sandalwood and Jasmine can be very expensive. In general, the harder it is to extract the oil, the more expensive it is.

    -----

    Where can I get my carrier agents?
    You can sometimes buy carrier agent oils from the same sources you get your oils from. (Bath & Body Works sells it ready-to-use for perfume.)

    Alcohol is another story. Shipping alcohol is difficult. Your best bet is probably a licquor store for either the 'Everclear" pure grain alcohol or Vodka.

    -----

    What are the different strengths of perfume?
    Fragrances are classified by the percent of pure oils.
    - "Eau de Cologne" is the least concentrated form of a fragrance and generally contains 2 - 5% perfume oils dissolved in water and alcohol.
    - "Eau de Toilette" commonly contains 5 ÷ 10% pure oils.
    - "Eau de Parfum" usually has 10 - 20% pure oils.
    - "Parfum" (the most concentrated, rarest and most expensive) has 20 - 40% pure oils.

    -----

    How do I make solid perfume?
    For a solid perfume, use unscented beeswax to thicken the oil base. Melt together one part beeswax and three to four parts jojoba or fractionated coconut oil until the beeswax is melted. Then let cool slightly until the mixture just starts to thicken, at which point you should blend in your prepared fragrance oil blend. Pour into small containers, and let settle.

    -----

    Why does my perfume only last a short time?
    You need to mix the fragrance oils the way a musical chord is composed, with high,middle and low notes that compliment each other.

    The depth or weight of a specific fragrance oil's aroma is based on the oil's volatility - i.e., how fast it disappears, relative to other oils. A quick way to experience this for yourself is to take some blotting paper (coffee filters, papertowels, absorbent paper, etc.) and drop two or three drops of the fragrance Oil on each blotter. Try a range of oils, one or two citrus oils, a "wood" oil like cedarwood, rosewood, or, best of all, Patchouli or Vetiver; and something in the middle, perhaps lavender or geranium. Wait a few hours and then smell them. The citrus oils will have almost disappeared, while the deeper base notes should be unchanged. Smell it again after 24 hours, 48 hours, etc. This will give you a foundational understanding of the weight of each oil.

    -----

    What is "Relative Impact" or "Relative Strength" of an oil?
    "Relative impact or "relative strength" is the measure of the strength of an oil relative to other oils. In other words, some oils are overpowering to the extent that even a small quantity will overpower larger quantities of other oils. For example, lemon oil has a higher relative impact than Jasmine oil. Mix the same quantity of lemon aand Jasmine and you will smell nothing but lemon.

    Once you start mixing, you will quickly see that some oils have very high relative impact and others have a low relative impact - meaning you will want to use small quantities so as not to comandeer the scent you are trying to develop.

    -----

    What is "odor life"?
    As the name implies, this is length of time the odor of a particular fragrance oil remains after application. You can use paper test strips to test the odor life of each of your oils.

    Amyl Acetate, the fruity pear drops chemical, only lasts a few minutes (0.15Hrs). Sandalwood oil lasts upwards of 6 months (4,500Hrs).

    -----

    How do I create a "mix"?
    Always blend the fragrance oils without diluting to create the mix that pleases you. Dilution comes later. The simplest explanation of the terms "top", "middle" and "base" notes is how tenaciously each aroma lingers. Blending a small amount of a middle note will make a top note last longer. Rounding the blend off with just a single drop or so of a base note anchors it still more. Generally speaking, the lower notes will dominate a blend, if used in equal amounts. Thus, for a rough start, try blending three drops of your chosen top note, two drops of a middle note, and a single drop of a base note.

    Don't forget to write down your mix formulas! Virtually every perfumer has created at least one scent they could not exactly duplicate because they forgot to write the formula down.

    -----


    How long should I let a mix sit?
    At least a few days! The oils will change after mixing.
    While you are almost certinaly not going to be able to wait, you should let a new undiluted mix sit a at least a few days in order to get an idea of what the scent will really be.

    After diluting, you need to let it sit for 4-6 weeks. Otherwise, all you will smell is alcohol if you're using that as the carrier agent

    -----
    How do I know how oils are classified?
    Oils are classified as "base", "middle" and "top" notes in a fragrance. (See the excellent Fragrance Terminolgy thread in this discussion for a definition of each.) While there is general consensus on what classification a specific oil falls under, some oils are classified on multiple levels. Use the oil classification guide at the end of this primer to determine what oils you should be using for each level (i.e., "note") of the fragrance.

    -----

    How many drops per ml?
    This varies by the oil...a thick oil like patchouli or vetiver is going to come up in big thick drops (like molasses, the vetiver) while a citrus oil is going to give you more drops per ml. The "average"...ie industry standard is:

    600 drops 1 oz
    300 drops 1/2 oz 15 ml
    100 drops 5 ml one teaspoon
    20 drops per ml.

    If you are using the same droppers each time you'll get 'consistent' ratios. If you are putting together formulas in mass quantities, once you've fixed your mix (ie 5 parts this oil, 3 parts that one, and 2 of that one, etc.) then you can use a scale that measures in grams and weigh them, instead of counting drops.

    -----

    I'm lost - can you give me some sample formulas?
    Try these formulas:

    Tender Mercies:
    lavender Oil - 2 drops
    carnation Oil - 4 drops
    juniper Oil - 3 drops
    jasmine Oil - 2 drops
    ylang-ylang - 3 drops

    Sultans Pleasure:
    patchouli - 2 drops
    lavender - 2 drops
    ylang-ylang - 3 drops
    jasmine - 1 drop

    Bocquet:
    Bois de Rose - 10 drops
    Palmarosa - 7 drops
    Rose Geranium - 5 drops
    Ylang Ylang - 5 drops
    Patchouli - 1 drop
    Labdanum - 1 drop
    Frankincense - 1 drop

    Warrior:
    Nutmeg - 2 drops
    Litsea Cubeba - 1 drop
    Jasmine - 4 drops
    Clary Sage - 10 drops
    Sandalwood - 4 drops
    Frankincense - 4 drops


    -----

    Oil Classification Guide:
    BASE NOTES:
    Balsam, Bay, Benzoin, Beeswax, Cassia, Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Clove, Frankincense, Geranium, Ginger, Macrorrhizum, Guaiacwood, Heliotrope, Jasmine, Labdanum, Melliot, Moss, Myrrh, Neroli, Oakmoss, Olibanum, Opoponax, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Styrax, Rose, Tonkabean, Valerian, Vanilla, Vanilla Bourbon, Vetiver

    BASE TO MIDDLE NOTES:
    Bay, Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Frankincense, Myrrh, Orange Blossom, Patchouli, Pimento berry, Sandalwood, Styrax, Vetiver, Ylang Ylang

    MIDDLE NOTES:
    Angelica, Anise, Artemisia, Balm, Basil, Bay, Caraway, Cardamom, Carnation, Cassia, Cassie, Carrot, Chamomile, Clary-sage, Clove, Coriander, Cumin, Cypress, Fennel, Galbanum, Geranium, Ginger, Ho Leaf, Ho Wood, Hyacinth, Hyssop, Jasmine, Jonquil, Juniper, Lavender, Lemongrass, Linden, Lotus (Blue), Mandarin, Marjoram, Mimosa, Myrtle, Narcissus, Neroli, Nutmeg, Orchid, Oregano, Oriental rose, Orris root, Osmanthus, Palma Roas, Pepper (black), Peppermint, Pettigraine, Pahna rosa, Pimento berry, Pine, Pine needle, Rose, Rosa Alba, Rosa cendfolia, Rosemary, Rosewood, Sage, Spikenard, Tarragon, Tobacco leaf, Thyme, Toberose, Violet flower, Yarrow, Ylang-ylang.

    MIDDLE TO TOP NOTES:
    Angelica, Basil, Bay, Bergamot, Caraway, Cassis, Clary-sage, Coriander, Fennel, Hyacinth, Hyssop, Lavender, Lemongrass, Linden Blossom , Marjoram, Melissa, Mimosa, Neroli, Nutmeg, Oregano, Orange Blossom, Palmarosa, Pepper (black), Pimento berry, Rosemary, Rosewood, Tarragon, Tea Tree, Thyme.

    TOP NOTES:
    Angelica, Anise, Armoise, Artemisia, Basil, Bergamot, Cajuput, Cardamom, Cedar leaf, Chamomile, Cinnamon, Coriander, Cumin, Davana, Estragon, Eucalyptus, Galbanum, Grapefruit, Juniper, Lavender, Lemon, Lemon Orange, Lime, Linden Blossom, Lotus (Blue), Mandarin, Marigold, Niaouli, Neroli, Orange, Orange Blossom, Peppermint, Pettigraine, Ravensara, Rose Otto, Sage, Spearmint, Tagetes, Tangerine, Verbena, Violet Odorata
    Last edited by Grant; 23rd September 2012 at 11:30 AM. Reason: fixed formatting

  2. #2

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (in progress)

    Feel free to give me your comments on the layout. 8)

  3. #3

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume; comments on lay

    That is fascinating stuff, ItalianStallion! Makes me want to experiment at home! Good goin'! 8)

  4. #4

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume; comments on lay

    This is excellent stuff - I recommend you have some fun with the layout - click on the yellow HELP up in the toolbar and then click on Posting on the left side of that page to learn how to add color, etc...this is how I created the Fragrance Terminology thread...

    I recommend highlighting the questions in one color and making them bold, and the answers in another color...Also, terms like Carrier Agent may be foreign to some users so maybe you can say "What ingredients should I use?"

    also...you stated that both oil and alcohol as carriers are longer-lasting - do you mean one has a longer shelf-life and one lasts longer on the skin?

    Thx so much for this great work! I think this will be a great permanent addition to our board! Keep up the good work!

    marlen
    japan/usa

  5. #5

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume; comments on lay

    Thanks - excellent feedback. I will incorporate your comments.

    Quote Originally Posted by scenteur7
    This is excellent stuff - I recommend you have some fun with the layout - click on the yellow HELP up in the toolbar and then click on Posting on the left side of that page to learn how to add color, etc...this is how I created the Fragrance Terminology thread...

    I recommend highlighting the questions in one color and making them bold, and the answers in another color...Also, terms like Carrier Agent may be foreign to some users so maybe you can say "What ingredients should I use?"

    also...you stated that both oil and alcohol as carriers are longer-lasting - do you mean one has a longer shelf-life and one lasts longer on the skin?

    Thx so much for this great work! I think this will be a great permanent addition to our board! Keep up the good work!

    marlen
    japan/usa

  6. #6

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Version 1 of the primer is done. Comments and feedback are welcome.

    Enjoy! ;D

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    2,755

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Great stuff!

    Do you keep a log of what a scent smells like or a chart of how many drops you used in each scent?

    Can you add materials other than oils to create a scent? I read someplace that you could create a cologne using oils and the peels of fruits or broken up spices to an alcohol base, let it sit for a couple weeks and then strain what is left through a coffee filter.

    Also any recommendations on where to get good glass sprayers? I've only been able to find cheap plastic ones which probably affect the scent.

    I really like the idea of creating a solid perfume; that sounds very convenient... where could I get the beeswax, and will the beeswax affect the scent? I think you listed beeswax as a basenote.

    Another question : what is the expected life of an oil once you purchase it, and what is the expected life of a scent once you create it?

    I'm full of questions today. Great primer!
    In rotation: Greenbriar (new), Silver Mountain Water, Dunhill for Men (1934), Acqua di Parma Colonia, Habit Rouge EDC, Ho Hang, B*Men, Agua Brava

  8. #8

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Do you keep a log of what a scent smells like or a chart of how many drops you used in each scent?
    Absolutely.

    Can you add materials other than oils to create a scent? I read someplace that you could create a cologne using oils and the peels of fruits or broken up spices to an alcohol base, let it sit for a couple weeks and then strain what is left through a coffee filter.
    Oils are more powerful and are used in the best perfumes. ╩And not all plants produce oils. ╩i.e., there is no such thing a Gardenia absolute or essential oil. ╩Any freagrance tha has Gardenia is using a synthetic. ╩While experimenting with other things may be occasionally fun, I'd stick with the oils.

    [i[Also any recommendations on where to get good glass sprayers? I've only been able to find cheap plastic ones which probably affect the scent.[/i]
    I too had a hard time finding quality sprayers. ╩However, for the classic perfume bottle,it's hard to beat a Roger Gandelman original handblown bottle. ╩i.e., check these out:http://www.njmgallery.com/pages/gandelman.html

    I really like the idea of creating a solid perfume; that sounds very convenient... where could I get the beeswax, and will the beeswax affect the scent? ╩I think you listed beeswax as a basenote.
    Many of the online sources for oils will also offer beeswax.

    [i]Another question : what is the expected life of an oil once you purchase it, and what is the expected life of a scent once you create it?[/]
    Same as perfume. ╩At least 18 months and them will begin to degrade. ╩Which brings up a good point - store your oils in cool, dark place as you would good perfume.

    Quote Originally Posted by MisterK
    Great stuff!

    Do you keep a log of what a scent smells like or a chart of how many drops you used in each scent?

    Can you add materials other than oils to create a scent? I read someplace that you could create a cologne using oils and the peels of fruits or broken up spices to an alcohol base, let it sit for a couple weeks and then strain what is left through a coffee filter.

    Also any recommendations on where to get good glass sprayers? I've only been able to find cheap plastic ones which probably affect the scent.

    I really like the idea of creating a solid perfume; that sounds very convenient... where could I get the beeswax, and will the beeswax affect the scent? ╩I think you listed beeswax as a basenote.

    Another question : what is the expected life of an oil once you purchase it, and what is the expected life of a scent once you create it?

    I'm full of questions today. Great primer!

  9. #9

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Quote Originally Posted by ItalianStallion
    [i]I too had a hard time finding quality sprayers. ╩However, for the classic perfume bottle,it's hard to beat a Roger Gandelman original handblown bottle. ╩i.e., check these out:http://www.njmgallery.com/pages/gandelman.html

    wow, what beautiful bottles. ╩There is a link on the page to still more fab bottles by other artists. ╩If you can't afford these beauties, though, here is another link that seems to have quite an assorment of sprayers.

    https://www.alicealiya.com/atomizersking/index.html

    If you are looking ofr even less expensive, say, to decant a drop or two for a Buddy. . .er, friend ╩;D ╩, this is a good spot:

    https://bestbottles.com/home.html

    This site also has accessories. . .funnels, droppers, ect. . . they seem to very inexpensive, for the most part, with a large selection

    And still more, with bulk quantities for those of you who are successful at this. . .

    http://store.yahoo.com/casadeperfumes/noname.html

  10. #10

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Brilliant piece-thanks for the time and effort you put in!!!!It seems a relatively simple process to make your own scent but as we all appreciate bloody difficult to make a passable attempt not withstanding a masterpiece!!Thanks again

  11. #11

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Very Nice work Stallion,
    Iźve saved the info for future experiments.

    Regards
    Matt

  12. #12

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    I made Warrior. Niiice. Had doubts about all that Clary, but it worked fine. Did you formulate it?
    Will try the others in your primer. If you've got more good recipes please post them.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    I still have extra bottles of diluent for sale or swap if anyone is interested.

    http://www.basenotes.net/cgi-bin/for...num=1089179261

  14. #14
    Banned
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    536

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    ive read that most perfumers first combine the elements of the base, middle and top notes seperatley, then wait before putting them together for the final mixture

    does anyone know if this is indeed fact and what purpose it serves if it is ?

  15. #15

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Quote Originally Posted by czesc
    ive read that most perfumers first combine the elements of the base, middle and top notes seperatley, then wait before putting them together for the final mixture

    does anyone know if this is indeed fact and what purpose it serves if it is ?
    I'm sure a lot of people have different reasons. I think one is that so you can adjust each portion of the blend.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Wow ItalianStallion! Thanks for the primer. I'm printing it out right now. One thing though. You're using the term "fragrance oils" but to me "fragrance oil" means a synthetic oil and "essential oil" means...uh...the natural or somewhat natural product from the plant.

    But I've been wrong before.

    Thanks again for the wonderful primer!

  17. #17

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Wow! Excellent post, I must get myself some oils.... I have all the other equipment necesary for mixing. Congrats! ;D

  18. #18

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Thanks for that , it sounds like a great hobby and interesting thing to do
    I looked on ebay for the oils etc and i bought this.

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...e=STRK:MEWN:IT

    I was wondering if anyone could help me on what to do with this , i am still a bit confused with the main post , but i should get my head around it.!? :-[

  19. #19

    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    2,755

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Quote Originally Posted by abro100
    Thanks for that , it sounds like a great hobby and interesting thing to do ╩
    I looked on ebay for the oils etc and i bought this.

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...e=STRK:MEWN:IT

    I was wondering if anyone could help me on what to do with this , i am still a bit confused with the main post , but i should get my head around it.!? :-[
    These are knock-off oils. I have used some from different companies. They can often approximate the real thing, but usually a couple notes are missing. Now and then they get it dead-on.

    I believe what you have purchased are essential oils blended to approximate a scent, and mixed with Jojoba oil for application to your skin. You should be able to apply the oil you purchased directly to your skin, or you can dilute it in grain alcohol if you want to spray it on your skin. Sometimes you get blobs of oil if you dilute it incorrectly, however, so I would recommend just applying it to your skin.

    If you want to create your own fragrance, you might start off with a few essential oils or fragrance oils, but make sure they are not cut with jojoba or other oils. If anyone is going to cut the fragrance with jojoba or grain alcohol (or any other diluent), it should be you.
    K

    In rotation: Greenbriar (new), Silver Mountain Water, Dunhill for Men (1934), Acqua di Parma Colonia, Habit Rouge EDC, Ho Hang, B*Men, Agua Brava

  20. #20

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    thanks alot k . yeah i think thety are what you are saying , i emailed the person about it and they said it comes with a roller abll.
    I have read the feedback though and near enough everyone says it smells the exact same , the mostpopular feedback was the armani which i chose , if it is good ill probably try a few more , the L'Issey Miyake (SP :P) one is also rated as excellent they have aload of scents though.

    Oh yeash , would this be ok after shaving or should i apply moisuriser , which i need to buy an unscented one.

  21. #21

    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    2,755

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Quote Originally Posted by abro100
    thanks alot k . yeah i think thety are what you are saying , i emailed the person about it and they said it comes with a roller abll.
    I have read the feedback though and near enough everyone says it smells the exact same , the mostpopular feedback was the armani which i chose , if it is good ill probably try a few more , the L'Issey Miyake (SP :P) one is also rated as excellent they have aload of scents though.

    Oh yeash , would this be ok after shaving or should i apply moisuriser , which i need to buy an unscented one.
    Roller ball should be OK. Not as easy to use as a spray, IMHO, but pretty good for a few quid. I got started on the fragrance obsession with the oils and moved on to the real thing after a while.

    I would definitely not use the oils as aftershaves! I think they would seriously burn your skin. You haven't experienced pain until you apply something which has some spice in it. I made the mistake of spraying some Habit Rouge oil I mixed with alcohol close to my neck, where I shaved. The pain was rather unpleasant.

    I'd recommend buying an unscented aftershave and or purchasing some witch hazel and using it. I have made my own aftershave with witch hazel using Mint Extract (the kind you buy for cooking) and adding that to witch hazel. You don't need to add much mint extract to the witch hazel to notice the mint.

    Witch Hazel is an astringent and contracts the capillaries which helps restrict bleeding and tighens up the face. A number of commercial aftershaves (i.e. Anthony Logistics) use Witch Hazel as a prime ingredient in aftershave.
    In rotation: Greenbriar (new), Silver Mountain Water, Dunhill for Men (1934), Acqua di Parma Colonia, Habit Rouge EDC, Ho Hang, B*Men, Agua Brava

  22. #22

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    i got it today.

    It is actually very good , at first it smells a bit diffrent but after say 5 minuits it smells exactly like armani he .
    I have had it on for about 4 hours now and the smell is still pretty strong so people can smell it.

    i think i might just buy some unscented lotion and apply that and then use this at first.

    Thanks very much for the advice though , i have copied them to notebook for future refrence , so when i do start to get a better sense of what smells i like etc i will be able to do it ;D

  23. #23

    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    3,441

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    I found this link by random web surfing

    http://www.perfumersworld.com/index.html


    this sounds very interesting!
    anyone here want to be a professional perfumer?
    Oriscent, AgarAura Pure Ouds, Creed, LIDGE, Patou Pour Homme, tons of niche and rare stuff for sale!
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/253...er-100-items!!

  24. #24
    Yvan
    Guest

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    So, has anyone been trying to make any fragrance here? How have your experiments gone?

    I'd like to try making a cologne using a pure grain alcohol like Everclear, but I hear that even if you let it sit for 4 to 6 weeks, it'll still end up smelling kind of like alcohol. Has anyone found that to be true?

  25. #25
    Yvan
    Guest

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    After formulating some mixes of essential oils and letting them blend and settle for 2 days, I've added Everclear to the bottles and will now wait 4 to 6 weeks 'till they mature. ╩I thought I'd add a few of my notes.

    MIXING
    Since the average given earlier in the thread is 600 drops for one ounce, if you're making one ounce of an eau de toilette (10% oil, though EDT strength can vary depending on who you talk to), that means 60 drops of essential oils and the other 90% (540 drops) is your alcohol solution. ╩Since it's my first time and I want to save my oils for larger batches once I know my test mixes are okay, I went with 1/2 ounce to start. ╩That means 30 drops of essential oils and 270 drops of alcohol.

    I didn't want to have to tediously measure out the 270 drops with an eye-dropper, so what I did was use a ruler and make a mark at the halfway point of each 1-ounce bottle...since the essential oil mixture was already in the bottle, all I had to do was fill Everclear up to the line at the halfway mark. ╩Maybe it's a few drops of alcohol more or less, but I'm less concerned with that than the essential oil ratios. ╩I added some alcohol, swirled the bottle to combine it, and kept adding it until it reached the mark.

    SIZE OF DROPS
    That was a good point about how drops can be different sizes depending on the thickness of the oil...I found benzoin was on the thick side, so instead of the 4 drops of benzoin I had planned to add, I added 3 drops.

    TOOLS
    One good tip I can give is, when pinching and depressing the rubber top of the glass eye-dropper when you're drawing up oil or alcohol into it and then transfering it into the bottle, take your time...I found if you depress the rubber top too quickly, the oil or alcohol can quickly suck up inside the eye-dropper, it could go all the way up to the rubber top and dribble down to the tip...you don't want a rubber note in your scent, so avoid that possible contamination by going slowly. ╩

    Also, I found all the tools I needed for my humble beginner's kit were the bottles to mix the essential oils (and later the alcohol) in, glass eye-droppers to transfer the oil and alcohol, a glass bowl with alcohol to cleanse the eye-dropper in between each oil transfer, a shot glass with alcohol to hold the eye-dropper uncontaminated so you can occasionally free up your hands...and later, when you add the alcohol to the oils, you can pour the alcohol from its bottle into the glass bowl and use the eye-dropper to transfer it from there into the bottles containing the oils. ╩So, I found I didn't need a glass stirrer...just swirling the bottles in a circular motion combined the oils perfectly. ╩Mind you, if all you're mixing are thick essential oils, you may need a stirrer, but usually, over half the essential oils you add will be of thin consistency, so it will be easy to mix them by swirling the bottle. ╩You might look and see if in fact it's all smooth liquid in there or if there are clumps on the bottom. ╩

    After combining the oils and alcohol, while you're waiting for it to mature, visit your mixture periodically and swirl the bottle several times. ╩Depending on what oils you combined, you might find some milky oil residue that has settled in the bottom of the bottle. ╩Swirl it to mix it all together.

    Before mixing the oils or mixing alcohol into the oils, make sure all your tools are clean, so nothing contaminates the mixture. ╩Wash them well with soap...let them air dry rather than drying with a towel...or after rinsing with hot water, shake excess water out really well and rinse again with alcohol to purify. ╩Some people suggest boiling the bottles etc. in hot water, but my bottles had labels with glue on the outside, and I figured if I boiled them, bits of the label and glue could end up in the bottle, and I didn't want that, so I just hand-washed them.

    CARRIER SOLUTION
    Some web pages say the alcohol solution you add to the essential oils should be 90% alcohol and 10% distilled water. ╩The distilled water apparently helps to soften a fragrance and slow its evaporation rate. ╩One web page says to first blend some glycerin with the water to prevent bubbles. ╩I just added straight Everclear...I'll tell you how it turns out! ╩Vodka already contains some water, so if you use that, you wouldn't have to add water. ╩If you do add a bit of water, it should be distilled, because you don't want organic matter in, let's say, tap water, mucking up the scent.

    And if for any reason you notice globules of undissolved oil floating around in the mixture, once it's reached maturity after 4 to 6 weeks, you could use a coffee filter (in a glass funnel) to strain the liquid. ╩Then again, it probably won't hurt anything to leave it in there.

    I have to add...I encourage anyone who has the urge to make their own frags to try it at least once. ╩I've found it really satisfying to get all the elements together and try my hand at the magic of fragrance alchemy.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    I just added straight Everclear...I'll tell you how it turns out!
    One thing to note is that the strength of Everclear varies according to where you buy it. In California the strongest you can get is 151 proof (75% alcohol), in other states (Nevada, I think) you can get stronger stuff, perhaps as high as 180-190 proof (90-95% alcohol).
    All these moments will be lost in time, like tears in rain.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Some very good information posted here!
    I would like to add that when using an alcohol base for fragrance, a fixative should be added so the scent will last longer on the skin. Glycerine is a good one...use at 2-3%
    Good luck!
    Last edited by Cat; 31st July 2008 at 02:37 AM. Reason: edit

  28. #28
    Yvan
    Guest

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Hi Cat...it's nice to see your "recipes." I plan to post mine, whether they turn out good or bad, as soon as the batches are finished maturing...2 weeks to go.

    As far as using a fixative goes, I used essential oils that are fixatives, like benzoin and vanilla. Not sure if that would eliminate the need for glycerin or not. Maybe fixatives for the oils are different from fixatives between the oils and the alcohol, though I know the fixative oils do help prolong the scent and some help "bind" the different oils together. Good to have your formula on hand in case I find I need to adjust things.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Glad to help, Yvan!
    The purpose of a fixative is to slow down the evaporation rate of the other oils and in this case, the base as well.
    Essential oils that are good fixatives are the slower-evaporating ones like sandalwood, benzoin, vetiver, frankincense, balsam peru, labdanum, oakmoss, etc. They also add depth and richness to the blend.
    Unfortunately, many of these oils are strongly-scented, and can "take over" a blend unless used with care.
    A good rule of the thumb when using these is to limit them to no more than 10 to 15 percent of a perfume formula, especially if the top and middle notes are comprised of more delicate, ethereal scents.
    The addition of glycerine, which is an odorless, syrupy by-product of soapmaking, adds a humectant quality to the blend, helping to offset the drying effects of the alcohol and helps the scent last longer once it's applied.
    Hope this helps...I would be interested in seeing your recipes when they are ready!
    Cat

  30. #30

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Thank you ItalianStallion for great article; Yvan, Cat and K for really helpful advice.

    ItalianStallion mentioned quality of ingredients. Problem: Tincture of Ambergris is 75.00 Euros for 16 ml. Do I want to substitute ambreina?

    Problem: I want to make Old Spice and Old Spice Lime(the Shulton version - not the current Proctor and Gamble product). Basenotes lists the ingredients to the Old Spice formula, all 18 of them. But what are the proportions? I have unopened vintage OS and OS Lime cologne - but I am not a perfumer. Or a chemist. Or a cook. Too expensive to have analyzed and copied.

    Looking forward to reading yvan recipes.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000