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  1. #181

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Great thread!

    I've skimmed through all of it and found answers to most of my questions. But I still have two left.

    What would cause my jajoba based cologne to have less staying power than my Everclear (190 proof) based cologne?

    Background: My 1st experiments were with Everclear, 20% EO / 80% alcohol. My 2nd set were with jajoba, 25% EO / 75% jajoba.

    My jajoba based colognes have almost NO staying power. My commute is about 20 minutes. Almost no scent by the time I get to work.

    My alcohol based colognes seem to last at least a few hours.

    Generally, my formula has been about 25% top, 25% middle, 50% base.


    Or is it not a given that an oil based cologne will last longer? Or might I have better luck with fractionated coconut oil.


    Also, anyone ever incorporate tobacco absolute into a blend? If so, were you happy with the results? And what other EOs/absolutes did you use?

    When my fiance and I started making our own products, we didn't start with many "masculine" EOs, so I've been adding more of these lately. I saw tobacco absolute listed somewhere and became curious. I'm just having a tough time imagining it in my blends.

  2. #182

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    I would use fractionated coconut oil rather than jojoba, as you are already thinking.

    Using FCO, you should not have less longevity than with alcohol.

  3. #183

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    When I first looked into extending the life of my colognes, I came across both jojoba & FCO as options, and I already had jojoba. I will try FCO before thinking about alcohol again, though I did like the spray bottle more than the roll-on. Thanks BR.

    Another question too:

    The 1st "colognes" I ever wore were those scented oils, most made to smell like commercial colognes/perfumes. My favorite scents were Baby Powder & Kush. Anyone familiar with those scents have an idea of how to somewhat duplicate them with EOs?

    I experimented with bergamot, clary sage, cedarwood & sandalwood. Unintentional & surprising at the time, the blend had somewhat of a powdery scent. But I had no idea what adjustments to make.

    After receiving benzoin & peru balsam recently, I get the idea I could come close to Kush, but I'm not sure where to go from there. Frankincense, myrrh...?

  4. #184

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Luckily for myself Perfumers alcohol(got some arriving end of week) is obtainable in the UK on ebay!...though only 2 sellers in the entire of UK....Still its obtainable just abouts!

  5. #185

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Could any of these formulas translate to solid cologne?

    Substitute the formula for alcohol with beeswax and carrier oil?

    I'm just starting out and thinking about mass production is plaguing and confusing my brain.
    I'm experimenting with EOs at the moment and also thinking about using fragrances in the mix as well.

    I've been told to start looking at using weights instead of drops and to look into measuring them out in full, I just have no idea where to even begin with the base, mids and tops weight/drops/ml wise as well as the beeswax and carrier oil.

    I currently use 2.5ml beeswax, 2.5 ml shea butter and 5ml carrier oil for my tests.
    So would that be a 10ml base? How much fragrance would I need to add?

    Then how would that translate to weight/ml for mass production?

    Let's say I need 20 15ml tins obviously I need to make a 300ml right?
    Where do I even begin? haha

  6. #186

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Okay, I am creating a fragrance that uses Armagnac as a note, and the total number of drops of essential oils that I am shooting for is around 120. I want the final blend to be at around 20% concentration, so that would mean 600 drops. Now, I am using perfumer's alcohol as my carrier and it's very easy to get if you buy a small amount. The thing is, if I counted 600 drops of alcohol using a pipette, it would be nowhere near 1 oz. So with that in mind, should I count the drops of alcohol I add, or should I go by weight?

  7. #187
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    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Weight is always the *best answer... ;-)

    PK
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  8. #188
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    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Definitely go by weight. I go by drops when I'm making small tests and samples and even then the oils are usually pre-diluted to give me an even more consistent measurement. (Since some oils make bigger drops than others, diluting in alcohol first makes it much more consistent.)

  9. #189

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Hi, im a totally newbye trying to learn to make beatifull parfums.

    I've bought some essential oils and some essences. There're too strong!! Someone told me that the best way to go is to dilute at 10% every essential oil and then procced to blend from that dilutions.
    So my doubt is if the essential oils is previously diluted at 10% ... the rest 90% is the carrier, it sounds for me like it will result in a perfum with a very low concentration, isn't it?

    When you talk about 10 drops is undiluted, isnt it?
    Currently wearing: Encre Noire by Lalique

  10. #190
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    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Quote Originally Posted by NazguL2 View Post
    Hi, im a totally newbye trying to learn to make beatifull parfums.

    I've bought some essential oils and some essences. There're too strong!! Someone told me that the best way to go is to dilute at 10% every essential oil and then procced to blend from that dilutions.
    So my doubt is if the essential oils is previously diluted at 10% ... the rest 90% is the carrier, it sounds for me like it will result in a perfum with a very low concentration, isn't it?

    When you talk about 10 drops is undiluted, isnt it?
    Yes and no. There are some oils that you don't want more concentrated than just 10%. Some could even work at 1%. When I'm making just quick rough "sketches" I might not use diluted oils for most ingredients, such as lavender or bergamot, but an ingredient like vanillin is so strong that 10% vanillin is still easily as strong as 100% vanilla bean oil.

    As for whether drops are diluted or undiluted, I actually suggest using those numbers of DILUTED drops because undiluted oils all have different viscosity. Try adding just one drop of real myrrh, for example. You won't get the right amount. 10% is weaker than parfum strength but it's plenty strong enough to make sketches and it's not so strong that it burns out your nose, which is important!

  11. #191

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    This is a great stuff. A guide to all basics. Impeccable write up.

    I have a small doubt. I have an Orange Patchouli oil of 10 ml e gl. oz. 1/3, I wanted to make a perfume spray out of it. How do I make it.

    I am planning to add the vodka first as the base carrier and add the essential oil by drops. Is this the right way? Should I have to add anything else apart from this? Please advice.

  12. #192
    OttomanEmpire
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    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    I'm today test try 200 ml. Results :Incredibly beautiful a Parfüme high Concentrated %25- top notes = mango & sweet orange & iris
    Middle notes =basil & osmanthus
    Base notes = vanilla & musk & oudh
    But Must wait in colored glass now (1 month)...
    I try Odor first opening. almost paco rabanne one million and terre de hermes mix as. But middle and base notes a little Complex Vaguely! Because now very early Must sit in wait time
    Odor. One mouth after Permanent & sillage and middle and base notes Distinctive features revealed

  13. #193
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    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Thank you so much for the quality information. Definitely bummed that I have to wait 4-6 weeks after diluting in order to wear a fragrance, cest la vie. Still, I will DIY when I figure out what scents I enjoy.
    Currently wearing: Back to Black by By Kilian

  14. #194

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Quote Originally Posted by EF44 View Post
    Thank you so much for the quality information. Definitely bummed that I have to wait 4-6 weeks after diluting in order to wear a fragrance, cest la vie. Still, I will DIY when I figure out what scents I enjoy.
    Don't be too upset - I believe some fragrances such as L'Air du Temps require twelve months of resting before being ready. I am sure such fragrances as Ma Griffe required equally long times for the aldehydes in combination with citronella oil to meld properly too.
    Currently wearing: 1000 by Jean Patou

  15. #195

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Hi I'm new, and I'd appreciate some advice.

    My work colleagues and I are assisting the STEM group at a local girls’ charity and are leading a perfume project: the girls are middle school aged and have been divided into teams, with the goal that each team will develop a unique fragrance. I work in a science-based industry, but we don’t make perfume. So I’m struggling with some of the nuts and bolts, although this primer is very helpful, so thank you for that!

    The teams have already experimented with making essential oil blends – every team formulated about 5 different blends which are very small scale – there’s about 10 drops total in each. The oils were not pre-diluted. They have team lab notebooks and took meticulous notes during the formulation process, so scale up should not be difficult from that perspective.

    We have both roll on applicators and spray bottles for the teams to use, and they’ll have the option to use either. So we plan to purchase both fractionated coconut oil for the roll on applicators, and perfumer’s alcohol for the spray bottles (carrying fifths of Everclear into a room of middle school girls is somewhat frowned upon!).

    But I’m not sure what proportions to have the girls use? Should it be 10% oil blend /90% carrier for both the roll on and the spray? Do I need to have them add distilled water to the spray or is the perfumer’s alcohol sufficient? If water should be added, in what proportion?

    Also, in terms of our “manufacture” process, does this make sense?
    • Select the favorite blend.
    • Formulate a larger quantity in the same proportions.
    • Add required amount of oil blend to applicators (10%).
    • Top off with carrier(s) (90%).
    • Vortex (we have access to vortexing equipment, so they will be well mixed) each filled applicator.

    Will this work, or is there something I’m overlooking? Or would it be better to formulate in a different container (beaker, mason jar, bowl?) and then pour in to the applictors?

    I appreciate any and all advice!

  16. #196

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Hi to all and congratulations for your forum, its amazing and really helpful...

    After reading a lot of threads i decided to make some perfumes using fragrance oils...

    I use 90ml ethanol (95%) and i dillute on it 10ml of a fragrance oil and the result seems good!!!

    After the first spray there is a strong odour of alcohol but it comes away after 5-8 seconds... I think that it also stay with the perfume a little bit as i smell it and the time passes...

    No "milky" vision as other members wrote but the fragrance doesnt stay on skin much time...
    What else could i use to make them stay longer on skin?
    Last edited by tatalx08; 12th March 2016 at 08:56 PM.

  17. #197
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    Post Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    "I'd recommend buying an unscented aftershave and or purchasing some witch hazel and using it. I have made my own aftershave with witch hazel using Mint Extract (the kind you buy for cooking) and adding that to witch hazel. You don't need to add much mint extract to the witch hazel to notice the mint."

    This was a question I actually had. As I've read more and more, I've learned a whole lot about do's and don't's (and I must say that it's like a rabbit-hole... just when I think I've nailed down something, I learn something else that throws everything out of whack - and I love it) But my question is about using extracts in small quantities. I purchased coffee extract (for a recipe for some bread I was making) and as I've started making perfume, I've been paying more and more attention to ingredients. I noticed that the extract is just the coffee, water and alcohol. Would this be usable in a perfume. I'm sure I can find reasonably priced coffee fragrance oil, but wondered about it. Mostly because of the water, but was wondering if anyone had any ideas.

    ***PS I did a quick search on BN for some information about this but couldn't seem to find what I was looking for. Sorry, if I am repeating a question that has already been answered.

    Thanks in advance!
    Currently wearing: Princess by Vera Wang

  18. #198

    Default Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    Never use anything with any water in it in a Fragrance. The vast majority of Perfumery ingredients are not water soluble. Using Flavours (which will be water soluble) is not the right way to go about making Perfumes.

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