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  1. #1

    Default The Tie - to tie or not to tie!?

    There is so much choice now as to the way you might wear a suit.

    The thread about evening shirts made me wonder how far one should go in re-interpreting the classic look.

    Here, at least there is now a trend to break down the old black tie regime by wearing a dinner jacket (tuxedo) with no tie at all! ie an open neck shirt perhaps in a deep burgundy. Or perhaps to wear a normal tie (necktie) with the tux - usually a slim black one.

    At the same time the business suit is becoming more formal with crisp white shirt, dark silk tie, expensive cuff links and very formal black shoes (even patent) all quite the norm.

    Where are the new benchmarks? What are the new protocols? Help!

    Trot :-/

  2. #2

    Default Re: The Tie - to tie or not to tie!?

    Hi, Trot . . . great thread! One of the big problems with 'transition' periods, is that no protocol or benchmarks, exist. It's come what may. I am a traditionalist, but not to the point of preferring 'bookish,' straight laced, looks. I still prefer the classic, butterfly bow tie, with a tuxedo. It's more festive than a necktie, with a tux. Our paragon of style, Tom Ford, wears a butterfly bow with his tux . . . about this, I agree with him. I could do without the gardenia in his lapel, but obviously he thinks it looks good. As for my 'rule' about a tie being darker than the shirt, that goes wayyy back to traditional, white shirts. More than any other color, I still think a white shirt makes a man look best. It lights up the face, and sets off a dark suit. If a darker shirt is worn, a light colored tie with it, might look great to those who choose to wear these combos; to me it's lower end gangster. No impolite criticism, intended. But a white tie with a black shirt, or even with a dark blue shirt, etc., is too flashy for my taste. I am not a big fan of the monochromatic scheme, either. Blue shirt, tie of same coloration, etc. I think that's boring, and verges on being a 'no brainer.' Also, the monochome look can be devoid of discernible dimension. A man can end up looking like a 'flat,' cardboard figure. If you mix textures, then the monochrome scheme works better. Trotsky, it's like every other trend: most of them, go in and out of fashion; classic prevails. What's worth waiting for, is to see which trends, become classic. The women's pantsuit, for example. It became classic at once, after YSL invented it, because the time was right. Neckties can be uncomfortable, especially in hot weather. Does that mean that men should give them up? Who knows . . . only time will tell. :-?

  3. #3

    Default Re: The Tie - to tie or not to tie!?

    I would not do anything different with a tux at all if it is formal. Whitest white shirt, black bowtie, black shoes, black french cuff links.

    For a night out, the typical long sleeve shirt open at the neck, no tie is ok.

    They key, IMO, is to have the hair match the style. If you are going to wear the open neck long sleeve shirt, or better yet a tight t-shirt with some irreverant design ("everythings bigger in texas" or whatever), then you go to have the crazy, spiky hair and casual (e.g. Diesel) shoes. Actually, w/ the long sleeve shirt, it would have to be the dress shoes.

    The elements have to match. Can't do the t shirt w/ dress shoes and formal hair, just like you couldn't go to a wedding w/ spiky hair and Diesel shoes.

    If it's a open neck long sleeve shirt, sloppily half tuck it in. Leave the cuffs unbuttoned. Wear a big Versace belt.

    Anyways, that's how I dress when I club in Chicago at the classy joints (Y Bar, Soundbar), but I don't do it in a tux. I either wear a suit with dress shoes, wild hair, and the half unbuttoned dress shirt, or a tight t with wild hair, diesel jeans and shoes and the big belt.

    Basically, if you are going w/ a tux or suit and doing anything unusual, I would say make it clear that you are intending to be outside th box...don't have people think that you just don't know that an unbuttoned burgandy shirt is inappropriate w/ a tux. Have your look say "damn straight, it's inappropriate...why else do you think I'm wearing the matching burgandy Chuck TAylors?"

  4. #4

    Default Re: The Tie - to tie or not to tie!?

    I have my personal opinion
    I like to have my tie on when i am in formals and that is almost everyday leaving Sundays.
    Only thing is that you should have a perfect Tie-Knot on your collars.
    Learn how to tie a tie:

  5. #5

    Default Re: The Tie - to tie or not to tie!?

    A Tux is timeless...

    I remember at the Oscars one year when everyone was wearing the "in" thing, which was no tie on a collarless shirt.

    it was the epitome of douchebaggery...

    THe world's closets are filled with "interpretations" and "re-inventions" of classic looks. They collect dust and never again see the light of day.

    If you have the cash and are so inclined, have at it, but keep in mind the most expensive clothes you own are the ones that don't get worn.

  6. #6

    Default Re: The Tie - to tie or not to tie!?

    i tend to avoid the tux as much as possible. to match a super-formal occasion, i'll typically go for a three peice black suit with tailed jacket, matching black vest (no satin in sight, blergh) and a black silk tie on a crisp white shirt.
    current favourites: guerlain vetiver, trumper eucris, adp colonia
    latest swag: cdg man2, lolita lempicka au masculin
    next buys: keiko mecheri oliban, michael by michael kors

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