Code of Conduct
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 60 of 157
  1. #1

    Default A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    HI All, From this Saturday onwards, i will be wearing a classic scent as a tribute to the history of fragrance. Personally, i do not like where scent is going with many new releases being rehashes of former rehashes (just look at 212 and Cerruti etc.) Scents just can't seem to be innovative anymore. Well, while waiting for the situation to improve, i have gone back in time, to a more vibrant age in scent to explore the roots of contemporary scents. I will highlight and wear one classic fragrance a day for a week. Watch this space and join me in a celebration of tradition! ;D

  2. #2

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    28.02.04 (Saturday)
    SOTD: Monsieur Carven ( 1978 )

    Today, we travel back in time, to 1978. The birth of Monsieur Carven. Usually, in a scent, we get one dominant note that represents the theme of the scent, its heartbeat so to speak, the thread that joins the top to the base in a fluid transition. That note in Monsieur Carven is Jasmine.  ;D
    Many perfumers consider Jasmine to be one of the most important ingredient for perfumery. It is an intense floral that is rich and warm. Think sexyness. Some even find it fruity to an extent but in high dosages, it turns narcotic and seizes the senses with an iron grip. Certainly in the right hands, it becomes fuel for the imagination. It makes a good thread/theme in fragrance because it is a tenacious note that retains its warmth all the way to the basenotes. Don't take my word for it, Edmond Routnitska, the creator for classics like Eau Sauvage and Eau d'hermes, said "It is the natural product par excellence". Here's a list of just some of the scents that has jasmine in it. Notice how each has managed to claim a slice of fragrance history, fuelled by the intoxicating/mysterious jasmine note: :
    1. Havana (1994)
    2. Acqua di Gio (1996)
    3. Eternity (1989)
    4. CK One (1994)
    5. Cool Water (1988)
    6. Brut (1964)
    "Powerful as it is, jasmine refreshes rather than oppresses, possessing both antidepressant and aphrodisiacal properties." - Mandel Aftel. :-*
    In Monsieur Carven, the richness of the jasmine note is sweetened with carnation and spiced up with Cinnamon. It has a tinge of rose in it as well, but not to worry, the masculinity is guaranteed with the typical Pachouli+Vertiver combo of the 80s, Moss, leather and CIVET!!! All notes deserving of their own expose for sure but enough for me to say, the leather and moss provides earthiness and the civet contributes the animalic attraction necessary for a masculine scent. A great scent, deserving of the label "Classic" and like most good things in scent, it has been discontinued > and very rare in my part of the world.


  3. #3

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Hey milamber,
    I'm with you on a Tribute. Got some good classics too.

    28.02.04 (Saturday)
    Just woke up. Gonna wear Hermes Bel Ami (1986) as SOTD.
    My abs favourite leather scent. Bought it blind back then, it was a love from the first sniff!

    THE REVIEW (posted later)

    Gender marketed: male

    THE BASIS
    Concentration: Eau de Toilette
    Form/package: 100ml (3.3 fl.oz.) retail bottle
    Where purchased: retail shop
    Price paid: $37
    Personal experience: about 20ml worn

    THE SMELL
    The scent starts out with a dry and sharp spicy and woody accord. It has some slightly sourish quality to it (when smelled from a distance). Reminded me of how a fresh cut poplar or a poplar buds smell or of some strong highly-resinous and balsamic pine wood smell (strange but I can't decide between these two). This must be an elemi note. Smells quite powerful at a closer distance. It is quite interesting at an attentive sniffing - lots of woody and conifer resin undertones.
    The sharp start looks a bit pressing you down, but then some warmer woody tunes appear in the heart note accord on the background. It's so sophisticated that I can feel even some flowery note in there. The aforementioned balsamic-resinous note is a little bit more bright and dry.
    The scent warms up a little to its base note. It exposes deep leathery accord of leather and ambergris. There's some vetiver and patchouli undertones "playing spice" in there. The accord also has some "burnt wood" quality to it.
    The overall character of the scent is dry, woody-resinous and leathery. A monolithic scent. ;D It's quite hard to pick undertones out of it. Though it smells very natural.
    I must say it's nothing of a linear scent cause it changes (not that dramatically though) and sometimes several different layers at a time can be detected in there.
    NOTE: I managed to collect SIX (!) DIFFERENT (!!) versions of Bel Ami's ingredients description, including official by Hermes house (however, some of them share a few ingredients), so go figure.

    THE FEEL
    My overall feel of the scent is perfect, harmonious, manly, chic and sophisticated. And very magnetic (almost addicting), I just can't stop smelling my wrist. It adds some luxury and spectacular feel to my personality. Sometimes it gets me out of a bad mood and makes me to re-appraise some things in my life. Personally, it is also a keeper for me.

    THE USE
    Average duration: 14+ hrs
    It would fit colder fall and winter evenings the best, any summer heat is totally unwanted. It leans toward more casual and romantic occasions, though me thinks it could be worn anywhere anytime but requires some elegant style. I use it this way whenever I'm up to.
    Bel Ami is quite strong but sits close to the skin, a little scent trail it leaves is rather light but perceptible.
    Sometimes I feel tired of it but after a little break it starts to get my admiration again.

    THE MULTIGENDER CAPABILITY
    I think it can be worn by some brave women for, say, an occasional "change of pace". It's all due to the complex character of the scent. There's a lot of women's spicy-leathery scents as well. I know some women wear Bel Ami occasionally but never sniffed it on a woman's skin personally.

    THE VERDICT
    I just ADORE the scent from the very first time I had managed to sniff it! Scent-related compliments for a stranger are not that accepted here so I'm collecting looks. ;D Works pretty good! It is my top favourite leather scent. It's an *absolute* must-have, even if only thing that you like is that "unscented" oceanic-watermelon stuff (think you must have at least one leather thing in your clothes). Perfect, admirable and majestic fragrance! Will always be in my Top 5.

    ----- made with Comprehensive Fragrance Review Pattern -------------

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  4. #4

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Are you bestowing official permission for me to wear Yatagan every day next week?

  5. #5

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    As long as you don't come too close, why not?
    Lovesick the wind that carries it

  6. #6

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by The-odor
    Hey milamber,
    I'm with you on a Tribute. Got some good classics too.

    28.02.04 (Saturday)
    Just woke up. Gonna wear Hermes Bel Ami (1986) as SOTD.
    My abs favourite leather scent. Bought it blind back then, it was a love from the first sniff!

    Regards, Odor.
    Welcome aboard and that's a wonderful choice!!! Bel Ami indeed, my friend!
    Are you bestowing official permission for me to wear Yatagan every day next week?
    Yup! Yatagan it is for Mr Westie, now who's got dibs on Equipage?? ;D

  7. #7

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Chanel Egoiste SOTD

    Later suggestions: Chanel PM
    Paco Rabanne PH
    Monsieur de Givenchy
    BRUT (yes)
    Tabac
    YSL

  8. #8

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Well, I guess I'm on board too.
    Wearing Monsieur de Givenchy. 1959 is it?
    I like the classics too. I wonder who created this one?

    Regards, Eric

  9. #9

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Gendarme also uses Jasmine as a central note.

    Great post Milamber!

  10. #10

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    I am also doing a "back to the past trip", smelling the oldies while they are avail. here in Poland, each time with one new to compare. Tried YSL PH, Armany PH with Cologne TM. The YSL PH is the best out of the three, IMO, although Cologne is good, too, with it's soapy but fresh drydown. Armany came most boring.
    http://blogsorbeta.blox.pl: CdG Series 8 Energy
    (Oct. 3rd).

  11. #11

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by Indie_Guy
    Gendarme also uses Jasmine as a central note.

    Great post Milamber!
    Yes it does. Interestingly, so does Mojo by Austin Powers!!! Gendarme makes it too. Guess Austin's mojo is fuelled by Jasmine!   It is an aphrodisiac!  

    Just an update, i am trying out some scents for tomorrow's expose. I have Versus on right now and though i bought it at the store, it just doesn't sit right with me at the moment. I can't see what intrigued me so at the shop. It's a linear (one dimensional) lemony scent. Lemon and moss. Should have splashed on the Roma Uomo instead. I probably should pick The Dreamer instead! :-/

  12. #12

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Here's to classics again!

    Got a light hangover after yesterday's party so I'm not into stronger scents today.  
    My SOTD (for Sunday, Feb 29, 2004) is Monsieur de Givenchy (1959).

    THE REVIEW (posted later)

    Gender marketed: male

    THE BASIS
    Concentration: Eau de Toilette
    Form/package: 50ml (1.7 fl.oz.) retail bottle
    Where purchased: retail shop
    Price paid: $20
    Personal experience: about 20 ml worn

    THE SMELL
    The scent starts out with rich but "matt" green-citrus accord (bergamot, lemon and maybe smth. else) and gains something flowery when developing.
    In the citrus-woody heart note accord, due to some spice added, its freshness gets kinda dense, like that of deep forest after the rain. A beautiful lavendery note rounds the scent perfectly. The accord also has some fougere-like quality to it. I can feel an orange note in there too.
    The base is charmingly deep and animal (due to civet note) with some mossy-woody and maybe even musty undertones to it. Though I'd call this accord a 'velvet' in character for its softness.
    The overall character of the scent is hesperide (citrus) of a subdued kind.
    It's somewhat hard to talk of linearity with citrus scents. Most of them change (from, of course, citrus to some woody/musky/spicy etc. notes), but quite a few change substantially. Monsieur de Givenchy does change meaning it doesn't smell the same all the way. The smell goes its way from green-citrus to mossy and animal notes, but the whole harmony remains.

    THE FEEL
    My overall feel of the scent is very calm and harmonious. It doesn't add much to the mood, just leaves me at being myself. A sudden whiff of the scent from myself during the day always brings some pleasant emotion.

    THE USE
    Average duration: 5-6 hrs
    Being a light citrus fragrance Monsieur de Givenchy would be better for warmer spring and summer seasons or year-round in some hot climates (but the latter also depends on humidity level, IMO).
    I wear it as a daytime fragrance. The scent is smooth and discreet (that "de"-sign of nobility in the name is quite righteous), and if you get its style it would suit any occasion except, probably, a workout and a beach-style. It would be a perfect everyday scent in your wardrobe.

    THE MULTIGENDER CAPABILITY
    I think a brave woman can wear this fragrance (not that easily but still) 'cause of its light, fresh and harmonious feel evoked by citrus (though, sharp at first) and lavender notes. It shouldn't be any problem at all if she likes Jicky (that is much heavier on civet), but if she doesn't the fragrance might take some getting used to. ;D

    THE VERDICT
    Its one of my most favourite classic scents. I love it for its unique harmony, it's a very well put together blend of notes and undertones. Though a good bunny for those who'd love beating a dead horse of "smelling like an old man". It is no doubt a scent with history. Not only means that its release date, but more of some aristocratic (but not that pretentious) character it has.

    ----- made with Comprehensive Fragrance Review Pattern -------------

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  13. #13

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    It's too bad so many of the classic designer fragrances simply do not agree with me.  Many of the heavy mossy fragrances even give me headaches.  My tastes are such that I have only six designer fragrances that predate 1987 that I've given four stars or more to, and here they are...

    4 stars...
    Tabac original 1959
    Calvin 1981
    Santos concentree 1982
    Obsession 1986
    Zino Davidoff 1986

    ...and the only five star designer fragrance pre-1987, BEL AMI.

    These would be the only classics I would wear.  I still have many classics in my wardrobe I consider to be 3,2 and 1 stars, but I never wear them and am in the process of finding new homes for them. If you're looking for some Boucheron, Gucci, Bijan, YSL, Capucci, or many others, I'm your man.  

    ~Clinton

  14. #14

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    29.02.04 (Sunday)
    SOTD: Sung Homme ( 1988 )

    Perhaps the ultimate spicy scent of the 80s. Sung Homme detracts from the generic vetiver+patchouli combo of its time. The majority of fragrances with that combo turn out to be dark, mysterious and brooding but Sung tempers the combo with bright citrus and spices that sharpens the note considerably. Perhaps the timing of its birth has something to do with the creative edge ie. towards the end of the 80s, people were probably crying out for something fresher than the usual vertiver+patchouli combo. In that sense, Sung heralds the coming of the fresh and clean 90s.
    It has Thyme, Sage, Pepper, Geranium, Vetiver and Oakmoss. The herbs work well to give a fresh and uplifting feel to the scent. It is herbaceously clean. To my nose, it smells like a person fresh after a shower. I use it in that context as well, with brilliant results. The wet hair, damp skin, cleanshaven-look, add a spritz of Sung and you're sexiness extreme.
    Personally, i've never been a fan of the fresh and clean that pervades the fragrance industry today, but the classic's take on that theme, based on herbs and spices is refreshingly retro. To me, it's taking an old forgotten scent, using it in a modern setting, to transform old and campy into new and innovative! Some of it is the way you carry the scent. Confident, charismatic, cool, it says you don't care what people think but this is the way ahead and you know it. The rest is the fragrance. This is one even the 20+ age group can carry off with confidence. If Sung was produced today, it would have been spoiled by too much sweetness; a scent carried too far so to speak. It would be cloying with too much vanille or tonka bean note, the sign of our time. Sometimes, the most brilliant perfumers must know when to stop fiddling and say this is IT. Indeed, Sung is IT with fresh, clean herbaceous spiciness, not a hint of vanille in this one.  

    Oh... on a side note, it lasts. What more can you ask for?  ;D

  15. #15

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    If predating 87 is required for classics, I was prepubescent during the classic era. This might explain why 0 of the fragrances I own predate 87, Cool Water(88) - first cologne - just misses by a year. I do have two vetivers on the way, but I don't know if they are classics, and I haven't really smelled them before. So, here's to learning about the classics from people more knowledgeable than myself in this regard. Cheers ;D

  16. #16

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by drewstyle
    If predating 87 is required for classics, I was prepubescent during the classic era.  
    Yeah, i suppose i better qualify my selections for classics. For me, i consider fragrances which have lasted more than 10 years. That is just arbitrary, based on the short lifespan of fragrances these days, a decade sounds about right. That means fragrances predating 1994.

  17. #17

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by milamber
    29.02.04 (Sunday)
    SOTD: Sung Homme ( 1988 )

    Perhaps the ultimate spicy scent of the 80s. Sung Homme detracts from the generic vetiver+patchouli combo of its time. The majority of fragrances with that combo turn out to be dark, mysterious and brooding but Sung tempers the combo with bright citrus and spices that sharpens the note considerably. Perhaps the timing of its birth has something to do with the creative edge ie. towards the end of the 80s, people were probably crying out for something fresher than the usual vertiver+patchouli combo. In that sense, Sung heralds the coming of the fresh and clean 90s.
    It has Thyme, Sage, Pepper, Geranium, Vetiver and Oakmoss. The herbs work well to give a fresh and uplifting feel to the scent. It is herbaceously clean. To my nose, it smells like a person fresh after a shower. I use it in that context as well, with brilliant results. The wet hair, damp skin, cleanshaven-look, add a spritz of Sung and you're sexiness extreme.
    Personally, i've never been a fan of the fresh and clean that pervades the fragrance industry today, but the classic's take on that theme, based on herbs and spices is refreshingly retro. To me, it's taking an old forgotten scent, using it in a modern setting, to transform old and campy into new and innovative! Some of it is the way you carry the scent. Confident, charismatic, cool, it says you don't care what people think but this is the way ahead and you know it. The rest is the fragrance. This is one even the 20+ age group can carry off with confidence. If Sung was produced today, it would have been spoiled by too much sweetness; a scent carried too far so to speak. It would be cloying with too much vanille or tonka bean note, the sign of our time. Sometimes, the most brilliant perfumers must know when to stop fiddling and say this is IT. Indeed, Sung is IT with fresh, clean herbaceous spiciness, not a hint of vanille in this one.  

    Oh... on a side note, it lasts. What more can you ask for?  ;D
    Weird, I just bought this one today.

    It was a good buy! I love the purple juice, and the fragrance puts me in the weirdest mood.

  18. #18

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    01.03.04 (Monday)
    SOTD: Chanel Pour Monsieur (1955)

    Well, it's been so much discussed here (along with comparing it to 1989 Concentree version), so I'll say just a few words.

    THE REVIEW (posted later)

    Gender marketed: male

    THE BASIS
    Concentration: Eau de Toilette
    Form/package: 50ml (1.7 fl.oz.) retail bottle
    Where purchased: retail shop
    Price paid: $50
    Personal experience: about 10 ml worn

    THE SMELL
    The scent starts out with sharp citrus accord of lemon and some other citrus notes. It has some light green and subdued character.
    In the heart note appear spicy accord (coriander, maybe ginger and smth else) with some deeper, almost woody, but "partly visible" sweetness on the background. It feels more smooth than the one in Concentree version.
    The base note is quite logical sweet woody and mossy accord. Quite a rich one.
    The overall character of the scent is chypre. Therefore, it changes perfectly from citrus to spice and then to sweet and mossy woods.

    THE FEEL
    My overall feel of the scent is perfectly gentlemanlike, calm, tailored, restrained and noble. I feel like I'm wearing a custom-built suit that fits me exactly, so I even hardly can feel it on. It's wonderful!

    THE USE
    Average duration: 6-8 hrs
    After some 20 mins it sits VERY close to skin. The fragrance is not heavy and has not that good staying power, so it's better be worn during warmer seasons. I think this scent will suit good any occasion that pretends to be of some style: whatever formal or casual. Its smooth and restrained character makes it better for daytime wear.
    And DO NOT try to sniff this fragrance from any paper strips! It smells just a BIG citrus there and does not expose the essence. For better sniff use your skin only!

    THE MULTIGENDER CAPABILITY
    I think it's quite wearable by women, especially those who love various chypres. Hope starting citrus would feel mellowed on woman's skin.

    THE VERDICT
    It is a PERFECT classic chypre scent! I came to it from the Concentree side. I love Pour Monsieur very much and would never be tired it. Also lasting power on me is good enough. A must try, just to see what that real pure "chypre" is.

    ----- made with Comprehensive Fragrance Review Pattern -------------

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  19. #19

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    01.03.04 (Monday)
    SOTD: Trussardi L'Uomo (1995)

    What's the unique ingredient in this one? Well, it's tomato leaves. Imagine the fruity sweet tomato mixed with Mandarin oranges and Bergamot. That's the essence of Trussardi L'Uomo. This scent is one that mixes well with my skin chemistry(nice way of saying BO ;D). It starts off very bright and citric, and ends off being musky lemony. Let me quote someone who has had an interesting experience with this scent:
    "I did a blind test once, giving 6 scents for 9 people in the room - L'UOMO, DARK BLUE, A'MEN, P Givenchy, L'EAU PAR and CHROME. The result was - 7 out of 9 chose L'UOMO as the scent they liked the most. Another guy liked CROME, and another one - A'MEN. All the girls liked Trussardi better. True story."
    by Ruslan , Russia , 2002/12/13.
    Well, you can't get a better endorsement than that!!! Certainly a very unique citrus that lasts. Oh... it's also discontinued!!! No surprises eh? Grab any bottle you can find. ;D

  20. #20

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    02.03.04 (Tuesday)
    SOTD: Romeo Gigli (1991)

    I was at my fav scent shop yesterday, sampling a lot of classics. Then i saw it, a dark green liquid housed in a champagne-like bottle. This one's topnotes will hit you square in the jaw. A knockout scent for sure. The topnotes include: Bergamot, Petitgrain, Neroli, Bitter Orange, Verbena, Rosewood, Sagebrush, Rosemary, Tarragon, Clary. Yeah, all that citrus and spice and everything nice in the top. In the middle, you get: Rose, Bourbon Geranium, Clove, Spices. But in the base: Oak, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Spruce Basalm, Blonde Tobacco, AMBERGRIS and CIVET!!! Woah!!! What a powerful drydown and as expected, the fragrance delivers. The citrus topnotes quickly dissipates into a full-bodied heart that is projected by the ambergris and civet notes. A fresh start, gets complicated and ends on a dirty sexy animalic note. Gigli is a citrus scent that becomes aromatic very quickly. This refined scent is not for boys though. It exudes manly sophistication. This is what Baldessarini wanted to be. It has the two missing ingredients ambergris and civet that Baldessarini tried to replace with tobacco. Nope, no cigars. Gigli has blonde tobacco to boot. It is so far in advance of its time. This is the precursor to scents like Cristobal and Le Male. And so much better in fact. It is twilight and passion in a bottle. Don't take my word for it. Here's the original review by a basenoter of excellent repute:
    "I had a small bottle of Gigli some years ago. Very good scent but hard to describe. It's very Italian - full bodied with spice, citrus and wood. I would say there is a strong note of patchouli - probably in the base. A little goes a long way. I am sorry I can't be more specific but it is well made scent. It is probably a fragrance that would not be suitable for someone very young - too sophisticated. Definitely not in the current fresh, clean and oceanic mode!"
    by Rob Machon , 2000/11/14.
    I am so happy i found this one. It is the scent Andre Agassi should have been advertising instead of the white noise Aramis Life. It is the scent to attract a Claudia Schiffer or Cindy Crawford. If you're eyeing Britney Spears, stick to Mugler's Cologne. This is one for Kylie Minogue. Separate the men from the boys.

  21. #21

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    02.03.04 (Tuesday)
    SOTD: Gucci Nobile,1988.

    THE REVIEW (posted later)

    Gender marketed: male

    THE BASIS
    Concentration: Eau de Toilette
    Form/package: 60ml (2 fl.oz.) retail bottle
    Where purchased: retail shop
    Price paid: $33
    Personal experience: approx. 20ml worn

    THE SMELL
    The scent starts out with a cold, very clean and subtle accord. It has a light-green smell and contains notes of lavender and rosemary with some citrus added (that is out of what I feel some 'cologney' smell there!).
    More green and flowery-spicy accord comes out in the heart note. I can feel jasmine and geranium there along with some 'rubbed green leaves'-note. Later appear some sweetness and some bitter undertone, these get the accord some light soapy feel.
    Then the scent develops into some dark-green deep forest woody and mossy tunes, and later into deeper and earthy base note accord on the very drydown.
    The overall character of the scent is fresh aromatic fougere scent with a green-earthy character. It is quite linear and uniform smelling.

    THE FEEL
    My overall feel of the scent is clean, subdued green, neat and restrained. It's quite subtle, comfortable and even mind-refreshing a little.

    THE USE
    Average duration: 12 hrs
    I highly recommend it for spring and summer office wear (and wear it myself this way). The scent sits close and doesn't leave much of a trail. It would probably not get you as much compliments as, say, Hanae Mori, but everyone you communicate with through the day would know you smell clean and good. Will suit a casual wear too but, as you can see, it's not that merry or playful.

    THE MULTIGENDER CAPABILITY
    Though it doesn't have any unequivocally masculine heavy notes, I think it is that obvious "cologney" masculine character that would prevent women from wearing it. Though Demi Moore in "Soldier Jane" have been probably wearing this one. ;D

    THE VERDICT
    I think it's a good thing of its time. I love this fragrance for its natural and clean feel.
    The fragrance looks so very classic and way too un-Gucci considering latest brand's image and marketing, Tom Ford's G-spot and all that. ;D
    There's not much to savour with this fragrance, so I just grab it and spray when I want to smell clean and classy. If you like modern green and clean smelling stuff like, say, Cologne, Bvlgari pour Homme, Good Life, Paco Rabanne EAU or new Vetiver Lanvin, you might like some of its classic background, the Gucci Nobile.

    ----- made with Comprehensive Fragrance Review Pattern -------------

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  22. #22

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    03.03.04 (Wednesday)
    SOTD: Signoricci 2 (Nina Ricci), 1976

    It's a classic and classy hesperide(citrus)-aromatic cologne.
    Very natural, sunny and bright lemon & Co. in the top note.
    It gains what they call "aromatic" with time. It is a gentemanly woody character with some smokey-powdery undertone.
    Great bottle by Lalique.

    According to Basenotes, after original Signoricci was discontinued, Signoricci 2 now has it's "2" dropped and is now marketed as just "Signoricci" so the scent itself is not discontinued.
    The most close to it, I think, is Goutal's Eau de Monsieur.

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  23. #23

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    03.03.04 (Wednesday)
    SOTD: Fahrenheit ( 1988 )

    A legend. That's what this fragrance has become, in more ways than one. It is so popular even today, that you'd never think it was a classic, but a classic it is. 16 years old classic. I would have to say that despite the age, it is still modern. This has been labelled a woody-floral scent, but to my nose it is more citric. I get a dominant bitter lime note all the way through. Some people have detected a petrochemical note in the topnotes and i have smelled this too. Not so clear when i first bought the scent, but more noticeable now, a year later. Don't worry, it melts into the scent and qualifies for the leather note in the base. Yeah, synthetic stuff!!! This is the house that Luca Turin loves to bash afterall. I wear this when i want to get compliments. It never fails. I will always keep a bottle of this in my collection but it will not get regular rotation. The synthetic pungency of this one is too much to take regularly. It is the weakest of the classics i've reviewed here, but then again, it is designed to linger unobtrusively, to caress the skin and impart a soft aura on the wearer.

  24. #24

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    The very first time I ever smelled Farenheit I recoiled in disgust, petrochemical you ask? I daresay anyone who has ever stretched fence wire could tell you exactly what you are smelling, namely, good old fashioned creosote. Take a walk along a railroad track on a hot day and see if you don't catch a whiff of Farenhite drifting up as the wooden cossties heat up. Yup, good old pitch-pine based creosote wood treatment. It has always smelled like hard work to me but I've yet to meet the woman who didn't think it was fantastic. Go figure, or then again, if you can't be a cowboy you can at least smell like one after he's spent the day putting up barbed wire....

  25. #25

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Hey Milamber, just popping up on this thread to thank you for your interesting reviews on these fragrances! Informative and interesting, I'm getting a kick out of it. However long you want to keep doing this is groovy with me.
    (I like Fahrenheit too....)

  26. #26
    Maximillian
    Guest

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    I like the older scents. Wearing Antaeus(1982 or 81?) today.

    Mando

  27. #27

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by Coleman
    Hey Milamber, just popping up on this thread to thank you for your interesting reviews on these fragrances!  Informative and interesting, I'm getting a kick out of it.  However long you want to keep doing this is groovy with me.  
    (I like Fahrenheit too....)
    I can't keep it up much longer though. I have enough for this weekend when it is supposed to end. 9 days of classics and this followed 7 days of niche. No wonder i've been getting A LOT of attention from my lady colleagues recently. Certainly, i've been noticing the traffic flow past my desk has increased dramatically this past few weeks. :-*

    A big thanks and kudos to The-Odor for sticking with me on this thus far. I know it hasn't been easy! I'm usually shy by nature and all this attention is getting to be very uncomfortable for me. :-[

  28. #28

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by milamber

    A big thanks and kudos to The-Odor for sticking with me on this thus far.
    That was rude of me to not have thanked The-Odor as well. I was just kind of rushed when I made my post thanking Milamber. Apologies, The-Odor! Gracias!
    It seems most of the in-depth reviews on this board are for niche stuff which I'll probably never smell, so it's nice to come across some articulate cats describing some of the more down to earth (price-wise heh) stuff! Thank you both.


  29. #29

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Coleman, it's NOT the end. ;D

    Hey milamber,

    Thank YOU for the great thread. Sure I'm taking take the baton of paying a tribute to classics from you. Have some more scents for the next week It's all due to I don't have niche at all (except a couple of CdG's and one Gobin-Daude - Nuit au Desert).

    BTW Fahrenheit is DOOMED to be great all time classics in Russia 'cause it's one of the few scents that were the first to flood the country while the Iron Curtain has been falling. Bogart's One Man Show (the one I'm also gonna make a review of) had found its way into USSR "market" before that.

    NOW WHAT? Here's for today:
    04.03.04, Thursday
    SOTD: Paco Rabanne pour Homme (1973)

    1975 FiFi Award winner.
    It is aromatic fougere with a herbal-spicy character.
    Starts out with rather powerful accord of green citrus and herbal notes.
    After not a long time it gets much softer into a cool soapy scent with prominent laurel note and some sweet spice. The base note turns out to be more dry and has a touch of honey. Taking into account all that previous notes, this smells like imaginary salted "marine" honey (collected by marine bees with white and dark blue striped abdomens).

    When wearing this to work, I apply it a bit in advance to prevent surrounginds' contacts with mighty top note. It settles and gets softer on 5 to 10 minutes and I'm set.

    I love the scent so much. Always have it in my top5 fall-winter scents.
    It smells quite formal, but it certainly has some romantic feel deep inside as well. Never had a spoken compliment with this one, but noticed lots of ones expressed in involuntary gestures (ladies drawing themselves up, slightly adjusting their hair-dress etc.).

    Great all time classics. BTW I can see accords like these are rarely used in modern compositions, but at the same time when smelled, it would surely evoke some memories (whatever good) to those who remember 70s and 80s. I'm inexpressibly glad Paco Rabanne didn't turn the screws on it and launched new "eau de" for the modern crowd.

    Regards, Odor.

    P.S. I'm going to support this thread as long as I have some more classic colognes and have some interest in it. A "classics period" for me really! ;D
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  30. #30

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by The-odor
    P.S. I'm going to support this thread as long as I have some more classic colognes and have some interest in it. A "classics period" for me really! ;D
    Woah, how many classics do you have? Any contemporary fragrances in your wardrobe? I think you may have to carry this thread into next week coz i'm running out. Don't make me review Old Spice and Brut!!! Well, it's in good hands no doubt. And judging from the viewership, it's been a thrilling ride and great exposure for the classics. The aim has been achieved. ;D

  31. #31

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by milamber
    Woah, how many classics do you have? Any contemporary fragrances in your wardrobe? I think you may have to carry this thread into next week coz i'm running out.
    Well, not as much as I want to. If it would be possible to count Opium PH (1995) and Havana for Men (1994) which are in fact "classics" (yeah, modern though ) I would have covered a next two weeks from this weekend on. If I didn't happened to finish some bottles of classics in recent half a year (which I did) it would be three weeks.  ;D
    Got some contemporary stuff too (from 90s and earlier 2000s).

    Best regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  32. #32

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    04.03.04 (Thursday)
    SOTD: Xeryus ( 1986 )

    A peculiar fragrance. It has a musty note that seems overly mossy. For some time, i have had a problem wearing this. Hard to get past the mustiness of this scent. The solution is surprising though. Spray a lot!!! I sprayed over 10 spritzes of this and the musty note mellowed out nicely. This is not a subtle scent. It was not designed to be reserved or understated. Xeryus has to be bold and powerful, in the style of the 80s. The berriness of this scent is unmistakable, but it is not a fresh clean fruity note. It is berries in the wild, complementing the woody accord of the scent. Nicely balanced. Xeryus Rouge is overly sweet but still wearable. Both long lasting scents but you'd expect that of a classic. ;D

  33. #33

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by milamber
    04.03.04 (Thursday)
    SOTD: Xeryus ( 1986 )

    A peculiar fragrance. It has a musty note that seems overly mossy... long lasting scents but you'd expect that of a classic.  ;D
    It doesn't strike me as musty or mossy. I get lavender instead from that strong top finish. Thinking of spike oil, which was used as essential oil for paint thinning by Leonardo. Resiny like turpentine but softer, more fragrant and luminous.

    Xeryus is a permanant member of my collection going way back.

    j

  34. #34

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Xeryus is the scent i dislike most, next to Pour Monsieur Concentree.
    Classic, yes. Strong, yes. Musty, yes.
    I think this one is tolerable after it dries down for 8 hours or so.

    Cheers milamber, to your tribute to the classics!
    Keep it going.....

  35. #35

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    05.03.04 (Friday)
    SOTD: Obsession (1986)

    The topnotes of this scent is very wierd in a funky sort of way. The advertisement for this tries to sell Obsession as a sex juice. The ads are black and white to symbolise a universal quality that trancends race and culture. Is obsession the sex juice of the 80s then? You wouldn't think so based on the topnotes. In my opinion, the topnotes is more of the midnotes rearranging themselves. Many artisinal fragrances do this eg. Piper Nigrum, Virgilio, Yerbamate etc. I don't mind it but it takes some getting used to. Try the original Burberry(1981) to get a stronger feel of Obsession's topnotes.

    The midnotes is what i want to focus on. This is where the magic happens. You get a mellowing of the topnotes into something very sexy. It is the appearance of the first gourmand notes that take my breath away. Chocolatey creamy but not so much rich as sharp and aromatic because the gourmand accord is made with woody notes of Rosewood and Pine needle mixed with oriental notes of vanilla and amber. Very nice, it is a movement and combination to produce the gourmand note. Not like say, Amen where you get the chocolates straight away... albeit after the tar ;D. Obsessions' gourmand note needs/has to be constructed. It slowly emerges from the chaos of the topnotes. Most interestingly, this gourmand note has added pungency through the addition of a red berries note. This sweetens the gourmand so you don't get dark chocolates, just a sweet milky coco-like effect. The most interesting accord in the fragrance IMO. Chanel took this accord to make Allure (not a statement of fact, just to give a rough idea of the accord i'm talking about.) This is the accord that makes obsession so obsessive and a classic. But what takes it away from the mold of Amen or Body Kouros is the persistent greeness (pine needles) that is in the background. Makes for a highly original scent though.

    If you do not like Obsession it is probably because you find the greeness a little too discordant with the gourmand or simply cannot stand the chaotic topnotes. For me, i find that those qualities are precisely what makes Obsession a unique scent and cements its place in the hallowed halls of true classics.  

  36. #36

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Another excellent review, thanks Milamber!
    ;D

  37. #37

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Gentleman,

    Thanks to both of you for what is easily the most entertaining, informative, and purchase-inspiring thread of the year!

    Cheers,
    Jim

  38. #38

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by jim2154mn
    Gentleman,

    Thanks to both of you for what is easily the most entertaining, informative, and purchase-inspiring thread of the year!

    Cheers,
    Jim
    LOL! Exactly, "purchase-inspiring"! Too true.


  39. #39

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    05.03.04, Friday
    SOTD: Azzaro pour Homme (1978)

    Fresh and vigorous aromatic fougere with a woody-ambery character.
    All-time European classics. Can't see too much (at least 2 or 3) fans of it here in Russia. Drakkar Noir seems to be much more popular (and I can see their fresh-fougere similarity ).

    It starts out with fresh note of lavender, anise and some cold peppery spice added. Long ago, when I have tried this for the first time it looked like had some medicinal smell, or something like well aged toothpaste. ;D Now I love the scent, and this note serves well as initial burst of freshness for the day. It smells clean and confident.
    The heart note gains a lot of presence out of it spicy-woody accord (i can smell patchouli and woods there). Has some 'stained wood' undertone.
    Base is deep musky-ambery in a softer way.

    The scent has rather good staying power but there's also EDT Intense version for those who "can't get no satisfaction". I think it could be worn any season but preferably in cooler weather, has some springtime feel to it. Its quite formal but I successfully wear it casual as well. Sits quite close and doesn't leave much of a trail. I'd say it also requires some kind of restraint from the wearer, jacket would be the best addition too.

    A must-try scent. Enjoy it.

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  40. #40

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Oh WOW! The-Odor, are you a mindreader? I just bought Azzaro Pour Homme today!!! I had planned to review it later but you've obviously done a fine job of it already. You nailed that one! ;D I will have to see if there's an angle i can take on Azzaro pour homme. Anyway, I can't wait for your expose on Bogart's One Man Show. Seen it many times but never got around to sampling it.

    LOL!!! Hehehheee You can bet i bought more classics today! ;D One very good thing about classics is that they're generally cheap and coming from the 80s, very strong in general. You get a lot of value from them, plus the extra satisfaction of owning something that is discontinued, really makes you feel like an antique collector. ;D

  41. #41

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    milamber,
    LOL! I was going to wear Acteur but some arranged meeting later on that day made it for me to be Azzaro PH. I think it's all OK when we post different reviews on the same scent, 'cause we live in different countries, have different skin chemistry, different noses, different weather outside and to the honor of Azzaro PH I can say it's nothing of one-dimensional scent. Congrats, great choice! Sure you'll find some new facets in there.
    And I'll do One Man Show review after this weekend (which seem to bring out some special occasions).

    Here the Tribute goes on.
    06.03.04 (Saturday)
    SOTD: Zino Davidoff, 1986

    The scent starts out with sharp mix of flowery, spicy and maybe even citrus notes. It gets attention immediately. The top accord itself is quite unusual, so that I can't think of what it's like.
    ---Lyrical digression:
    Yes, another good thing about classics is that you can't remember (or don't know) what it reminds you of. And even if you do, it's another classic cologne for sure. ;D
    ---End of lyrical digression
    The heart note appears to be softer but not at all less in power. Though I find it weird, its one of my fav accords. It's kinda rich and strange-creamy with prominent aura of jasmine and maybe lily of the valley, decorated with clear-cut geranium ornament. Metaphorically, it looks like a light bulb placed into a sphere of a box with lots of small openings in some smokey evnironment. You see sharp rays coming out and keep in mind that there's some beautiful shine in there.
    Base note is even more smooth. I think, woody-ambery with hints of patchouly and spice (like powdery tonka beans).

    I find the whole composition quite even, without any dramatic changes on the way. It has very good gentlemanly character. I wear it with a suit or at least jacket, more as an evening scent for colder season events (mind that I live around 56 degrees of northern longitude). I know there maybe some discrepancy in periods of time, but when I bought my first bottle of it and took a couple of spritzes it reminded me of Donnie Brasco movie. For me personally it's not an everyday type of scent. Seen it on somebody a couple of times.
    It's the only Davidoff scent I like (didn't have a chance to sample Davidoff original, the first one of the brand). BTW they make some good cigars and pipe tobacco as well. I think Zino fragrance is much overlooked even by the "well-aged" crowd. So the tribute couldn't just pass by.

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  42. #42

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    06.03.04 (Saturday)
    SOTD: Caron 3rd Man (1985)
             
    Today's tribute is not really for a particular perfume, but rather, a particular accord. The 80s' super accord known as the vetiver+patchouli combo. Many would instantly recognise this accord. It can be noxious, cloying and a general health hazard when overdosed. Problem is, it most often is. It has typified the 80s as a loud, confident era, nothing subtle about it. How does one wear it today then, in an age of plastic and styrofoam, when the most revered scent is non-scent?(nonsense? ;D)

    When you wear Caron 3rd Man, you are putting out a statement. You are a confident man, comfortable in the most stressful situations, not bothered by the dominant fashion style of the day, a man of tradition. The fragrance itself is caramel smooth. A brilliant take on the 80s' super accord. It is extremely aromatic. This one was designed with sillage in mind. When you leave the room, people will definitely know you've been there a few seconds ago.

    I wear 3rd Man on the skin. I like it close. It goes on my chest, under a shirt. Trust me, the effect is fabulous. This allows the scent to mix with your natural chemistry and pumps out through the pores of the fabric. The effect is one of sexy indulgence and warmth. It should have a place in any gentleman's wardrobe. (Even a gentleman gets horny once in a while.) So who IS the 3rd Man? I'm no Luca Turin, but i believe, there is your physical being, your spiritual being and the scent which becomes an extension of yourself. The aura personified!!!

    Wear this on a date, in the evening. Open air atmosphere is preferable though not a prerequisite.  

  43. #43

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    How to wear a classic fragrance. (07.03.04)
    **************************

    Although i am describing the classics, these techniques can be used for scents in general. The first method is the most well-known and recommended by fragrance connoisseurs. That is to spray on the pulse points ie. the neck, wrists, crook of the elbow, back of the knee etc. This will cause a pumping action with your pulse. Works well theoretically, but i suspect may just be another myth of fragrance. There are other factors to consider like humidity and weather and temperature. Anyway, this may not be the best way to wear a classic. Classics are strong scents and they for the most part still use a lot of natural ingredients, things like civet and ambergris as well as flowers like Jasmine and Lily of the valley. There were no synthetic substitutes for these earlier. That's why the classics which contained these ingredients are mostly discontinued. Too expensive to make, eroding of profit margin and other corporate considerations. These scents require no extra help from our pulse points to make their presence known, unlike the non-scents of today. In fact, because of the non-scents of today, it is perhaps better to wear the classics in a more subtle manner, to keep up with the times.

    The second method is the walk-through method. This is used generally for strong scents, of which constitutes the classics. Spray a mist from an arm's length away and walk through the fine cloud of mist. Done. Simple and effective. This has several effects. The scent becomes more diffused over a wider area and so the smell is not so intense. This method transforms the classics into something quite new. Certainly, not the the effect the perfumers intended, but appropriate for our purposes in this day and age. A nice way of modernising your classic. The topnotes do not linger as much and the heartnotes become more prominent not in the sense of strength, but you can tell the notes apart better.

    The third method is a variation of the first. Just spray a concentrated spritz at a pulse point. This works for scents that seem confusing at first. Scents whose topnotes take some time to arrange themselves. I use this technique for Xeryus. Just spray close to the skin, 10-15cm and a lot. Layer it if necessary, do not let it become too wet but concentrated. Some scents seem to require concentration or else, they don't know how to behave.

    The last method is the one i love the most. It works best with animalistic and sexy fragrances like the power 80s' accord of vertiver+patchouli. Fragrances like Caron's 3rd Man for example and also those that contain civet or ambergris benefit the most. The technique is simple. Just spray to your chest and wear light clothing over it. Something porous like cotton works best. You can also use the walk-through technique with this. The scent is trapped/held close to your body longer and this allows for it to mix well with your natural chemistry, far better than on open skin where the open atmosphere and wind etc, will lessen the effect. You get a sexy cocktail of scent + natural pheromes and your scent lasts longer as it feeds off your chemistry. I am often powerbombed when i take off my shirt after a long day at work. It's like a cloud of animalistic scent puffs out at you. During work, the scent wafts out invitingly.  Of course, it doesn't work in winter.  ;D

    Well, do try these techniques, you will discover new facets from all your scents, be it classics, contemporary or artisinal.

  44. #44

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    07.03.04 (Sunday)
    SOTD: Byblos (1993)

    This is a very unique scent, any serious collector should not be without. It has a fruity fresh topnote. A lemony blackcurrent accord. The fruits soon give way to an even fresher soap-like accord, undoubtly fuelled by the patchouli and moss in the base. The midnotes are herbaceous clean. Not as sharp as Sung Homme i reviewed previously, but definitely in the same fresh and clean category. This is another one that would fit the bill as an after-shower scent. Except, where Sung was a sharply clean scent, Byblos is more determined to be smooth soapy clean. It has the ability to alternate between the smooth soapy accord and the fruity grape accord. A fun scent to wear. Infinitely comfortable and delicious at the same time. I have been spraying and respraying after awhile, to get back the citrus blackcurrent topnotes after the scent moves on to the fresh and clean midnotes, trying to nail the evolution but it is so seamless, i can hardly detect it's playful movement from one accord to the next. I have come to the conclusion that this scent is toying with me!!! While the grape notes hold my attention, the herbs start shifting gears almost imperceptibly and when i move on to the herbs, the woods appear!! I am being led on a merry-go-round. I return to the grape and it has become creamy sweet. I have given up trying, i'll just sit here and enjoy the whole scent for awhile.

    However, do not mistake this for a kiddie plaything!!! It's a classic and deservedly so because it retains its charming aura of refinement over the playful fruity notes. The pathouli, woods, moss and musk ensures this. The image is one of a gentleman relaxing after a shower, engaging in a little game of chess perhaps.  Over time, the woods take over. You get a vertiver-like effect in the end, it is the patchouli and woods (Cedar and Sandalwood) taking effect. A beautiful transformation as you move from the freshly showered look to the casual evening look. It's like the scent transforms with you. Talk about evolution of notes, just smell the miraculous transformations this scent undergoes, so many facets reveal themselves over a short span of time. I have to stop typing every few minutes to smell the scent again. The grape/blackcurrent note melts so effortlessly into the base, it smoothes itself out nicely, almost effortlessly.

    The bottle itself is refined sophistication. Have a look at the basenotes database. It is purple, the color of grapes, sleek like Bel Ami and curvaceous like Havana. Feels good in the hands and the sprayer is gold in color. The cap has the sun symbol of Byblos. This has to be one of the most overlooked scent of the 90s. Oh... yes, before i forget, guys, its discontinued!!!! Snag that puppy if you see it!!!

    (In the course of this review, i had toyed with the idea of comparing this to another fragrance which is said to have a strong grape gum accord - the new Versace Man. However, that endeavour has been shelved because Byblos just simply blows Versace Man out of the water. If it was a boxing match, Byblos would be Ali and rope a doping all over Donatella. She won't know what hit her!!! It wouldn't be fair especially to the legions of Versace Man lovers out there.)  ;D

  45. #45

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    milamber,
    Great post on "how to wear classics", really! You just took words out from my tongue ;D I was thinking about it since I was going to wear HR today. Hope your post will get classic colognes some more connoisseurs and addicts. Cheers!

    The following is the second one of my special occasion classics this weekend. I think it can even make you a special occasion when you don't have an arranged one. ;D

    07.03.04 (Sunday)
    SOTD: Habit Rouge (original), 1965.

    It has so much fans all over the world, so I'd be terse on this one.
    It's already has "newly bottled only" substitute product on the market, but the original can still be found available in lots of fragrance somewheres.
    I applied a very small bit of it in the morning for a good mood. Will re-apply it later in the evening.

    Here's some notes that my humble nose could perceive in this majestic and sophisticated Guerlain house creation.
    The scent starts out with luxuriant and flickering-shine top note of citruses. Right next to it there is some spicy sweetness in hiding.
    The heart note develops as a rich oriental accord of woods and spice with glowing flowery (a bit soapy) undertones. The sweetness "inside" looks more dense with its saturated and swarthy red shine.
    Vanilla-ambery base note sprawled itself on some leather couch bathing in ruby and gold colours.

    I'm exhausted. Can't speak. Want to sniff, sniff, sniff... I have no more words to say how beatifully it waves when your pulse beats get more rapid! Sure it would be great to have something of deep red colour on when wearing HR. I usually wear 1 or 2 spritzes of the scent for evening special occasion purposes during colder season, esp. in winter.
    The old good friend with some sage eyeshine. 8)

    I don't raise a point like that one muste be kinda "The Sophisticate" to wear HR. But sure I see HR as one of the most complex scents ever (gave it "best oriental" award personally, in that recent thread). I seriously think it is better to be friends with it, rather than just to wear it as a "good classic cologne".
    Thank you, maestro Jean-Paul Guerlain!

    Regards, Odor.

    P.S. Hey, look! Carolina had named something as "Chic". After all just smelled and aforesaid, I'd add "HAHAHA!" but HR told me not to misbehave. ;D
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  46. #46

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    08.03.04 (Monday)
    In my country it is the celebration of Women's Day.
    ---Lyrical digression
    Women of Ancient Rome have had a Women's day. Matrons received lots of gifts and had love, care and atention lavished upon them by their husbands. Bondwomen (slaves) also received gifts and had this day off.
    In the 19th century women started to fight for their rights. In 1857 the 8th of March was the day of their first political mass-meeting in New York. In 1910 at the International socialist women's conference in Kopenhagen Klara Tsetkin was the first to propose the idea of celebration of women's struggle for their rights. In 1911 it was first celebrated in Germany, Austria, Denmark and Switzerland.
    After some period from 1917's October Revoluton it became one of the celebration dates in Soviet Russia. In 1977 UN organisation declared 8th of March as International Women's Day.
    Nowadays it's officially celebrated (and is a non-working day) in Russia and some CIS countries.
    The USSR experienced dissolution, the former ideology faded and got 'underground', so that now we have a celebration dedicated to some wonderful things of this world: Woman, Spring, Beauty and Love.
    ---End of lyrical digression

    SOTD: TENERE by Paco Rabanne, 1988
    I decided to wear this unique and sensual fragrance and I dedicate it to all women of the world.

    The scent starts out with fresh (slightly green) and calm herbal note of dried flowers and herbs. Wandering around some desert you felt that the oasis is somewhere not far from you, whispered prompt from the wind.
    Then comes heart note - subtle and shimmering melody of light spice and flowers with delicate honey note. There are lots of 'dancing' ingredients so I think everyone would get something beautiful on the skin. I can smell honey, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley and maybe anise & carnation (not sure). The interesting thing is that others around me feel some undertones (in my case, flowery) that I can smell on a blotter only. This note leaves a perfect trace.
    The base note is complicated too. Cedar (like that in Rocabar) and prominent but light leather note with a touch of earthy vetiver and patchouli.

    The note description (the only one, found at scentdirect.com):
    TOP NOTE: Bergamot, Cassia, Grapefruit, Green Note, Lavender, Lemon, Rosemary
    HEART NOTE: Anise, Artemisia, Carnation, Cinnamon, Honey, Jasmin, Lily of the Valley, Orris, Rose, Tarragon
    BASE NOTE: Amber, Cedar, Leather, Musk, Patchouli, Vetiver

    It is a very unique scent of some dried flowers, subtle spice, hay, honey, woods and leather.
    The whole scent is glowing and pulsating from the very top til the time it disappears from the skin. I had to be patient with it 'cause at first sniff I found it ...hehe, kinda stale.
    It smells 'faded' but is so beautifully breathtaking. Heard it was not so much of a big commercial success. Once sniffed this, one can easily see that it was out-of-mainstream from its very start in 1988. Although it's year-round, I wear it daytime in colder season and as an evening scent in summer. Could be a good point of any niche fragrance line.
    Got some interesing and surprised looks while wearing it.

    As for similarities, top and middle accords are somewhat similar to women's Montana (by Claude Montana) and the dried herbs and hay look like those of RL Polo Crest (without any pine needles though). I must say all similarities are not straightforward. There's nothing like Tenere on the market. Hope 'classics' chains like Marionnaud still carry it.
    BTW as far as Tenere is some region of Sahara desert, I can say Nuit au Desert by Gobin-Daude (a bit feminine to my palate) is completely different take on the desert theme. Both Tenere and NaD are unique and wonderful must-have scents.

    Regards, Odor.

    P.S. Hey gang, why don't you take some part in the "classics club"? I see some interesting stuff over there in SOTD threads. BTW, noirwest, could you please place some review of Ebene by Balmain here?
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  47. #47

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    The Tribute goes on!

    09.03.04 (Tuesday)
    SOTD: Blend 30 by Alfred Dunhill, 1978

    This is one of the *FEW* Dunhill's scents that deserve to wear the name of Alfred Dunhill, IMO (just forget about those "blue x-centric desires&quot. This scent corresponds good with a good Dunhill pipe with Dunhill pipe tobacco and the style of a gentleman.

    Starts out with fresh note of lavender and spice with some astringent quality. Typical citrus notes are not that prominent. This announces very cold character of the fragrance.
    The heart note is restrained - geranium and carnation on some woody background (more of a sandal note). Quite strong and sound dry spicy note.
    The base note is warmer (maybe due to ambery notes) but the main accord is a very dry leather decorated with some interesting freshness (of hay?) and sweetness (tonka?).

    The whole composition feel is very Victorian English (as I imagine it) . A smart-looking army officer of that time in his late 40s. Returned back to Britain from India a couple of years ago and retired. Very proud and devoted warrior. Has austere style and severe temper.

    It is one of the most formal scents I ever smelled. Couldn't find any similar fragrances (by accords). Nothing comes to mind. The whole character (not the scent) is somewhat similar to Guerlain's Derby.
    I use this at some very important moments at work, to strengthen "the core". Only Comme des Garcons EDP has the same effect on me, but compared to Blend30, it has more casual feel.

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  48. #48

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Hi The-Odor. Good to see you carrying on the fight. I always wait with great expectation for your next choice of fragrance. Today was a cool rainy day and this doesn't happen often in Singapore, so i took the opportunity to grab my Habit Rouge!!! 2 spritz on my chest, put on my shirt and decided, what the heck and sprayed one more in there for good measure. Also spritz 2 on my wrists. It felt good and made me feel special. A great scent. Now, in the evening, i am deciding what to wear!!! Byblos again? Or Trussardi L'Uomo? Well, as i was spraying some Monsieur Carven into a sample vial for Connoisseur, a few spritz got on my wrist, so that's my SOTE.

    I am scent dead for the moment, from too much classics. The-Odor will have to carry on. I will join you perhaps at the end of the week. Let's see if we can hit 1000+ views for this thread! Now that's what i call making an impact!!! I thought it was slowing down on Sunday, hardly hitting 700. Now, we are at 770 views!!! Wow! What a ride. ;D Hope you guys have been sampling the classics yourselves and had as much fun as we have.

  49. #49

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Hi milamber,
    I've been wearing more special or kinda 'evening' scents past weekend. Now it's time for some formal 'i-mean-business' stuff. Started yesterday with Blend 30. Worked good for me.

    Back to the Tribute.
    10.03.04 (Wednesday)
    SOTD: One Man Show, Jacques Bogart, 1980

    Starts out with fresh and manly flowery-green accord of galbanum (prominent) and ylang-ylang (like that of Cacharel PH, another good classic cologne). Bergamot adds some sparkling quality to it. It has kinda same power as the top note of Paco Rabanne pour Homme. I also can smell a fresh-spicy note of basil around there, it gets quite prominent in 5 or 10 minutes.
    In the heart note the starting power fades to some tempered level, and the scent gets more warm. The middle accord comes out spicy with some woods (cedar-like) on the background. Then appears a hint of incense that brings out some interesting light insipid or "stale" undertone. The spices dominate but I can't detect what it is.
    Some animal-leathery notes appear in the base note to that spices. But the oddity is they are even more calm and quiet. With every next note the scent gets closer to the skin.
    The whole scent is woody-aromatic which in this case can be detailed as "aromatic on the woody background". I see it's quite strong compared to what we have these days out on the market. Maybe Rochas Lui would argue. ;D

    I like it. My overall feel of the scent is manly but not shouting, calm and even having some sensual twist. It won't divert you from the business (except me to writing this review ;D), but sure helps to stay collected and to be in a good mood.

    I see it is good for both office and casual, but hardly can imagine this with sports, workout or in a nightclub (it gets along good with smokey environment though).
    I'd say it is more suitable for colder autumn-winter season or maybe some spring-summer days when it rains heavily. Should fit well a weekend countryside travel or a barbecue party outside. If you afraid that powerful top note would injure someone, just wait for 10-15 minutes for it to settle down before you go out.

    Sidenote:
    Many younger ladies in Russia consider this scent *WAY* too outmoded (compared to, say, Bvlgari pour Homme, Platinum Egoiste or even Cerruti 1881) as it was one of the few colognes that penetrated through the Iron Curtain into USSR (along with women's Climat by Lancome) in 1980s. Their fathers used to bathe themselves in the stuff at that time. The memory remains! I don't care who consider what an outmoded stuff, but still I wear it not that often - once in a month or so. It is still popular here among mature gentlemen in their 50s.

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  50. #50

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Consider me a cheat but I couldn't resist to add to this thread one very good review of One Man Show fragrance. It's been made by Scentimus (cheers Paul!) a couple of years ago. I digged it up from old good Yahoo! Basenotes group archives (cheers Grant!) back then. All rights and alrights reserved. ;D

    ***********************************************
    Message 17852 of 18053    
    From:  scentimus@a...
    Date:  Thu Sep 12, 2002  10:31 pm
    Subject:  One Man Show by Bogart (arrives)

    Today my tester of One Man Show arrived and yes I totally agree that this is European classic.

    The scent was originally launched in 1980 by the house of Jacques Bogart.
    The name One Man Show was taken from the new man emerging in he 80's with
    focus, direction, presence. Such fragrance for this new man were powerful
    and made to leave there mark such as the likes of Antaeus, Korous, Macassar.

    The scent leans itself into the Chypre Cuir family. The bottle I obtained
    was a tester with a sticker of the notes which are as follows:

    Head Notes
    Flowery: Ylang, Jasmine, Rose
    Hesperides: Grapefruit, Italian Bergamot, Brazilian Rose Wood emerige
    Aromatics: Galbanum, Basil

    Heart Notes:
    Woody: Patchouli, Sandalwood, Cedar of Lebanon
    Spicy: Nutmeg, Frankincense, Cascarilla*

    Bottom Notes:
    Amber: Cysteine, Castoreum

    I found the scent to be most unusual in the combination of Basil, Incense,
    Leather. The basil gives it a freshness that is sharp with a bite yet is
    smoothed out with the deep leather notes. A color of very very dark green
    comes to mind with this scent not light but dark almost black. This could be
    a perfect scent for causal fall times much lighter than other contenders of
    that season such as Korous or Polo Green.

    It a classic for it very wearable for any situation.

    Paul::.
    ***********************************************

    *Cascarilla - a bitter, aromatic bark of a West Indian shrub, Croton eluteria, of the spurge family, used as a tonic. (from Random House Webster's)

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  51. #51

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    I always anxious for read your post,Milamber and The-odor,are fantastic. Two cuestions is for yours a KNIZE TEN a classic Scent? Please yours opinion from this perfume. And second question, which is best perfume of the family of leather(cuir) ?and why?
    thanks,

    I learn every day of you
    #TOP 5#: Antico Caruso, Penhaligons Racquets,Creed BayRhum Vetiver,Domenico Caraceni,Castle Forbes 1445

  52. #52

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Thanks Dry_Martini,

    I never sniffed Knize Ten personally. As for leather, it is going to be my note of next month (or at least two weeks) after the Tribute.
    Started a separate thread to collect suggestions. We'll see what's best.

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  53. #53

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Woah, hats off to The-Odor. I could never wear leather for a week, let alone a month!!! :-X Maybe i'll do one for gourmand or the vanille note? That should balance out your leathers nicely. ;D

    Dry_Martini, you should see the new thread The-Odor has started on the leather note. Many good choices there. For me, i pick Pierre Cardin Centaure Diamant Noir. and Madini Shadows but i'm not really a leather fan. My weather doesn't permit it generally.

  54. #54

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    11.03.04 (Thursday)
    SOTD: Polo, Ralph Lauren, 1978
    As I've learned from the Basenotes board, this is a legendary classic cologne that almost everyone knows and  remembers of, but almost no one seems to speak much about. Since it's THAT famous, I won't be verbose on Polo, just a couple of thoughts.

    It starts out with strong pine accord. Simple, clean and a tittle bit cold, it has some resinous and green undertones. Manly, very manly. Some flowery undertone is lurking around there as well.
    Then the scent gets woody and warm. A smokey note comes out in the heart. It turns woody-aromatic due to some spices. There are lots of undertones but I can't detect them separately 'cause they "sound" as a whole.
    The base note is full of patchouli and leather (horse saddle?). Strong accord, has some animal quality to it. I also can feel some woody and incense-like undertones.

    Overall feel is simple and somewhat rude to me. It looks like a very straightforward fragrance without much nuances. It is remarkable and original but kinda lacks sophistication to my palate, that is well compensated with strength. On the other side one sure can start a hobby out of sniffing its undertones 'cause there's a lot of ingredients used. But in situations of regular communication (at some conventional distance) it does sound simple. BTW there's a lot of Carlos Benaim's art in the scent for it's a very even-tempered scent made out of lots of different stuff. I like the scent but never could wear it often.

    I can see some farm in a forest region, somewhere, say, in Maine, USA or more likely in Canada. Great rancho, nice woman in the house, good guys at the bar, great kids, good job, nice car, everything's alright... 'cause the man wears Polo. ;D

    Me thinks it suits colder climates in their colder temps and rainy weather good. I also like Polo on a frosty day (pine freshness smells wonderful). But most of the time I wear this it later fall, as a weekend casual scent. I'd call this a countryside fragrance. I think it mignt be good to wear this from time to time in the city as well, just for some occasional "change of pace".
    Polo has a great "wearing history" in some countries, this fact shouldn't be underestimated. If you don't give an empty bottle spray button to what peolpe used to wear at what times, then go for it. Just try to aviod communicating with "no-more-Polo" ladies. ;D

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  55. #55

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    More threads like this please!

    Thanks guys.

  56. #56

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike_C
    More threads like this please!

    Thanks guys.
    Your wish is my command.
    Ok, i'm back after a brief hiatus. I had 2 days off from the classics to rejuvenate/recuperate/restore my sense of balance and olfactory sense. Too much of a good thing is reeling. Nevertheless, in those 2 days, i couldn't really stave off the need for a classic. So much so, that i selected scents which, though modern and contemporary, are on their way to becoming classics themselves. They were By and Jaipur. Excellent fragrances in their own right. By has that dirty animalic note that classics effortlessly pull off, albeit By's note is more synthetic in quality and a cleaner dirt so to speak, while Jaipur is the oriental extraodinaire par excellence! I wore the EDT. I find the EDP version is too strongly vanille that it clouds the citrus notes beneath it. The EDT is more balanced and lasting enough.

    11.03.04 (Thursday)
    SOTD: Derby (1985)

    This scent starts out a tad smoky but then smoothens itself out nicely. I have both the deodorant atomizer and EDT versions. I just got the EDT version yesterday, a small 30ml bottle, the last one in the shop. Some American guy had come the day before and swiped off the 20 bottles in stock. This scent is discontinued so there will be no restocking. :'(

    The deodorant is overly chypre in construction with the moss dominating the scent. It's alright i suppose, but the EDT is far better. 2 ingredients in the midnotes fuel this scent - rose and jasmine. While the leather and Sandal in the base smoothens the aromatics out. This is Habit Rouge without the Rouge. Stripped of the red colour, it is a darker, dirtier scent but refined as well. It is not gothic like 3rd Man, more of a powersuit scent. Having said that, i can wear Derby comfortably with a few spritzes and walk-through, in the evening. It is an inviting scent, in minute amounts, it's a snuggle-me type of fragrance. More and it becomes a don't-mess-with-me type fragrance. I like the versatility of Derby, where one spritz of 3rd Man says Gothic and 6 spritzes still says Gothic only in a louder way, Derby has a quiet charm about it. The regal air of nobility.

    Heritage (1992) is IMO Guerlain's replacement for Derby. Similar in construction, it lacks the punch of Derby. Heritage is cleaner and more wearable to the younger age group. I will purchase Heritage soon, and give a fuller account of it here but initial impressions of it are not outstanding. If you've never tried Derby, Heritage would be a great scent. After Derby, you get much disappointment instead.

  57. #57

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Thanks, Mike! We'll keep on.

    12.03.04 (Friday)
    SOTD: Phileas, Nina Ricci, 1984

    The scent opens with a sharp accord of celery, moss (reminds me of Rochas Lui) and some fresh coniferous note (cypress or juniper-like). Rich and full-bodied spicy scent. Some fresh but mellow citrus is somewhere around there.
    The heart note appears salty, revealing vetiver and woods with some bitter spicy undertones (that maybe basil, marigold and/or wormwood, not sure though). Little less in power, its again extremely aromatic. The base note is again mossy and woody, when sniffed attentively it reveals some hints of ambergris and leather in the "underground".
    The whole scent very regular, without dramatic note-to-note transitions. It is the sharpest aromatic chypre I ever smelled. It is aromatic at all its appearance, being aromatic of all aromatics itself. ;D

    Hope you know all who Phileas Fogg is. If you do not, go read Jules Verne's novel - "Around the World in Eighty Days" (you must have done that in your juvenile years!) and have fun.
    And in some correlation with that, I heard some story behind this scent from a Russian lifestyle expert (cheers Nacht!). That is, the perfumer (don't know the man) arranged together a variety of ingredients from different continents to obtain kinda round-the-world voyage out of it.
    Here they go:
    from Europe - cypress, cistus, celery from Provence, Balkan oakmoss, Italian lemon;
    from Africa - Reunion vetiver, basil from Comoros, Moroccan wormwood, Kenyan marigold, jasmine from Egypt;
    from Asia - Chinese cinnamon tree leaves, Indian sandalwood, patchouli from Indonesia;
    from America - curly mint, Caribbean limette, Virginia cedarwood.

    The only ingredients list found on the net (from scentdirect.com) is, as we now see, not that accurate:
    TOP NOTE: Aldehyde, Basil, Bergamot, Green Note, Juniperberry, Lemon
    HEART NOTE: Carnation, Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Jasmin, Patchouli, Pine Needle, Thyme, Vetiver
    BASE NOTE: Amber, Labdanum, Leather, Moss, Musk, Olibanum

    Overall feel of the scent is "complicated and strong" and no doubt manly. Some enegry boost at first, then confidence and dignity. "I got the power" kind of scent. But it's just a top of the iceberg, the real power is inside.
    I don't get a round-the-world trip image out of it but in some aspect it looks like "world in a bottle" (sure THAT, 19th century world). ;D Maybe if sampled continuously for several hours (with some refreshings) in deep meditation, it would show you deserts, oceans, forests, fields, savannas, rivers and mountains all-in-one. Well, I'm just learning...

    Although it sits quite close, it makes some atmosphere around the wearer.
    Being really hard to find, it comes in splash only. I poured mine in an atomiser after the case I applied splash and it made some unbearable, almost killing atmosphere around me at work (happily I was alone in a room when a friendly co-worker noticed that). And even after that I use it with walk through method only. Used discretion is advised. The staying power is very good.
    It works best in on cold rainy days of fall or some days of drowsy spring like I have today.
    It rips any smoke off hands down, so I like to wear it along with a good Virginia blend smouldering in my pipe. 8)

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  58. #58

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    This is the greatest, most entertaining/informative thread EVER on Basenotes!!!
    Okay, I've only been here a couple of months! But I like it! Milamber and The-Odor, you cats rawk the mike and when you rawk the mike, you rawk the mike riiiiight!

    (This thread might be 2nd most entertaining though -- the winner might be whenever Mando and Pieter start hosing each other down with venom, that's always funny! Should I have not said that...? Hope I didn't offend!)

  59. #59

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    12.03.04 (Friday)
    SOTD: DK Fuel Special Edition (1994 discontinued)

    Ok, as Coleman puts it, time to rawk!!!

    Welcome to the darkside! DK Fuel is Darth Vader personified in scent. This is one powerful scent and i don't mean the projection or loudness, though it does have that too, but power per se. Power as an idea, a concept, made into scent becomes DK Fuel. The notes don't just evolve, they combust!!! It is aromatic and spicy sweet. Again, this one reminds me of Caron's Third Man, but with more fizz and pizazz. This is what an energised 3rd Man would smell like. Where 3rd man is more creamy and smooth, refined, DK Fuel doesn't even bother. Where 3rd Man is Gothic, DK Fuel is symbiotic. It feeds off the wearer's natural body chemistry and effortlessly adds it to its palatte, imbuing the wearer with an aura of power that is partly from within and mostly from the scent itself. Some scents get discontinued because it's time ran out, some gets canned because the ingredients are no longer viable. DK Men's growth was stifled because it is a scent out of time. A modern balance on the knife edge, it speaks of the new millenium. It takes the creamy smoothness of the 80s, cleans it somewhat with the filter of the 90s to give an edgy, sharp scent that's poised to strike, like a coiled viper. It's definitely a fast paced scent for a fast paced world.

    What do i get from the scent? Definitely the patchouli+vertiver combo, but also leather and spice, probably anise as well as moss. There is a heavy wood at the base, like cedarwood or sandalwood. I also smell almonds, dark roasted almonds. Forget the topnotes, it's gone in less than sixty seconds. Focus on the middle notes and drydown. A spicy sweet middle note layered upon a strongly wooded base. This scent scream's ACDC's Back in Black, which is the song i have playing in the background as i review this scent. Very appropriate.

    In a sentence, how do i sum up this scent? Well,
    IT'S A PREDATOR'S SCENT! if you know what i mean! 8)

  60. #60

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    12.03.04 (Friday)
    SOTE: Heritage (1992)

    A bonus scent for today. I said i would look into Heritage and look into it i certainly did. This is another great scent brought to us by the house of Guerlain. This is a scent for the mature man. Very dry, desert dry in fact. Enchanting and captivating at the same time. I like its woody dryness and spicy midnotes. Only the topnotes remind me of Derby though. No comparison, two very different fragrances. A sexy evening scent and one i enjoy wearing. ;D

Similar Threads

  1. Best Sandalwood
    By Vibrant_Violet in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 237
    Last Post: 21st June 2014, 04:03 PM
  2. Vetiver Redux-Update (five new scents added!)
    By wicozani in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 71
    Last Post: 3rd May 2012, 09:14 PM
  3. My recent Manhattan scent experiences (long)
    By wicozani in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 3rd April 2007, 03:26 AM
  4. Petit Guerlain - The weirdest scent I own
    By PigeonMurderer in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 17th November 2006, 07:57 PM
  5. The Perception of Scent
    By milamber in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 5th July 2005, 12:51 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •