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  1. #1

    Default A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    HI All, From this Saturday onwards, i will be wearing a classic scent as a tribute to the history of fragrance. Personally, i do not like where scent is going with many new releases being rehashes of former rehashes (just look at 212 and Cerruti etc.) Scents just can't seem to be innovative anymore. Well, while waiting for the situation to improve, i have gone back in time, to a more vibrant age in scent to explore the roots of contemporary scents. I will highlight and wear one classic fragrance a day for a week. Watch this space and join me in a celebration of tradition! ;D

  2. #2

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    28.02.04 (Saturday)
    SOTD: Monsieur Carven ( 1978 )

    Today, we travel back in time, to 1978. The birth of Monsieur Carven. Usually, in a scent, we get one dominant note that represents the theme of the scent, its heartbeat so to speak, the thread that joins the top to the base in a fluid transition. That note in Monsieur Carven is Jasmine.  ;D
    Many perfumers consider Jasmine to be one of the most important ingredient for perfumery. It is an intense floral that is rich and warm. Think sexyness. Some even find it fruity to an extent but in high dosages, it turns narcotic and seizes the senses with an iron grip. Certainly in the right hands, it becomes fuel for the imagination. It makes a good thread/theme in fragrance because it is a tenacious note that retains its warmth all the way to the basenotes. Don't take my word for it, Edmond Routnitska, the creator for classics like Eau Sauvage and Eau d'hermes, said "It is the natural product par excellence". Here's a list of just some of the scents that has jasmine in it. Notice how each has managed to claim a slice of fragrance history, fuelled by the intoxicating/mysterious jasmine note: :
    1. Havana (1994)
    2. Acqua di Gio (1996)
    3. Eternity (1989)
    4. CK One (1994)
    5. Cool Water (1988)
    6. Brut (1964)
    "Powerful as it is, jasmine refreshes rather than oppresses, possessing both antidepressant and aphrodisiacal properties." - Mandel Aftel. :-*
    In Monsieur Carven, the richness of the jasmine note is sweetened with carnation and spiced up with Cinnamon. It has a tinge of rose in it as well, but not to worry, the masculinity is guaranteed with the typical Pachouli+Vertiver combo of the 80s, Moss, leather and CIVET!!! All notes deserving of their own expose for sure but enough for me to say, the leather and moss provides earthiness and the civet contributes the animalic attraction necessary for a masculine scent. A great scent, deserving of the label "Classic" and like most good things in scent, it has been discontinued > and very rare in my part of the world.


  3. #3

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Hey milamber,
    I'm with you on a Tribute. Got some good classics too.

    28.02.04 (Saturday)
    Just woke up. Gonna wear Hermes Bel Ami (1986) as SOTD.
    My abs favourite leather scent. Bought it blind back then, it was a love from the first sniff!

    THE REVIEW (posted later)

    Gender marketed: male

    THE BASIS
    Concentration: Eau de Toilette
    Form/package: 100ml (3.3 fl.oz.) retail bottle
    Where purchased: retail shop
    Price paid: $37
    Personal experience: about 20ml worn

    THE SMELL
    The scent starts out with a dry and sharp spicy and woody accord. It has some slightly sourish quality to it (when smelled from a distance). Reminded me of how a fresh cut poplar or a poplar buds smell or of some strong highly-resinous and balsamic pine wood smell (strange but I can't decide between these two). This must be an elemi note. Smells quite powerful at a closer distance. It is quite interesting at an attentive sniffing - lots of woody and conifer resin undertones.
    The sharp start looks a bit pressing you down, but then some warmer woody tunes appear in the heart note accord on the background. It's so sophisticated that I can feel even some flowery note in there. The aforementioned balsamic-resinous note is a little bit more bright and dry.
    The scent warms up a little to its base note. It exposes deep leathery accord of leather and ambergris. There's some vetiver and patchouli undertones "playing spice" in there. The accord also has some "burnt wood" quality to it.
    The overall character of the scent is dry, woody-resinous and leathery. A monolithic scent. ;D It's quite hard to pick undertones out of it. Though it smells very natural.
    I must say it's nothing of a linear scent cause it changes (not that dramatically though) and sometimes several different layers at a time can be detected in there.
    NOTE: I managed to collect SIX (!) DIFFERENT (!!) versions of Bel Ami's ingredients description, including official by Hermes house (however, some of them share a few ingredients), so go figure.

    THE FEEL
    My overall feel of the scent is perfect, harmonious, manly, chic and sophisticated. And very magnetic (almost addicting), I just can't stop smelling my wrist. It adds some luxury and spectacular feel to my personality. Sometimes it gets me out of a bad mood and makes me to re-appraise some things in my life. Personally, it is also a keeper for me.

    THE USE
    Average duration: 14+ hrs
    It would fit colder fall and winter evenings the best, any summer heat is totally unwanted. It leans toward more casual and romantic occasions, though me thinks it could be worn anywhere anytime but requires some elegant style. I use it this way whenever I'm up to.
    Bel Ami is quite strong but sits close to the skin, a little scent trail it leaves is rather light but perceptible.
    Sometimes I feel tired of it but after a little break it starts to get my admiration again.

    THE MULTIGENDER CAPABILITY
    I think it can be worn by some brave women for, say, an occasional "change of pace". It's all due to the complex character of the scent. There's a lot of women's spicy-leathery scents as well. I know some women wear Bel Ami occasionally but never sniffed it on a woman's skin personally.

    THE VERDICT
    I just ADORE the scent from the very first time I had managed to sniff it! Scent-related compliments for a stranger are not that accepted here so I'm collecting looks. ;D Works pretty good! It is my top favourite leather scent. It's an *absolute* must-have, even if only thing that you like is that "unscented" oceanic-watermelon stuff (think you must have at least one leather thing in your clothes). Perfect, admirable and majestic fragrance! Will always be in my Top 5.

    ----- made with Comprehensive Fragrance Review Pattern -------------

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  4. #4
    noirwest's Avatar
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    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Are you bestowing official permission for me to wear Yatagan every day next week?

  5. #5

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    As long as you don't come too close, why not?
    Lovesick the wind that carries it

  6. #6

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by The-odor
    Hey milamber,
    I'm with you on a Tribute. Got some good classics too.

    28.02.04 (Saturday)
    Just woke up. Gonna wear Hermes Bel Ami (1986) as SOTD.
    My abs favourite leather scent. Bought it blind back then, it was a love from the first sniff!

    Regards, Odor.
    Welcome aboard and that's a wonderful choice!!! Bel Ami indeed, my friend!
    Are you bestowing official permission for me to wear Yatagan every day next week?
    Yup! Yatagan it is for Mr Westie, now who's got dibs on Equipage?? ;D

  7. #7

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Chanel Egoiste SOTD

    Later suggestions: Chanel PM
    Paco Rabanne PH
    Monsieur de Givenchy
    BRUT (yes)
    Tabac
    YSL

  8. #8
    evogel's Avatar
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    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Well, I guess I'm on board too.
    Wearing Monsieur de Givenchy. 1959 is it?
    I like the classics too. I wonder who created this one?

    Regards, Eric

  9. #9

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Gendarme also uses Jasmine as a central note.

    Great post Milamber!

  10. #10

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    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    I am also doing a "back to the past trip", smelling the oldies while they are avail. here in Poland, each time with one new to compare. Tried YSL PH, Armany PH with Cologne TM. The YSL PH is the best out of the three, IMO, although Cologne is good, too, with it's soapy but fresh drydown. Armany came most boring.
    http://blogsorbeta.blox.pl: CdG Series 8 Energy
    (Oct. 3rd).

  11. #11

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by Indie_Guy
    Gendarme also uses Jasmine as a central note.

    Great post Milamber!
    Yes it does. Interestingly, so does Mojo by Austin Powers!!! Gendarme makes it too. Guess Austin's mojo is fuelled by Jasmine!   It is an aphrodisiac!  

    Just an update, i am trying out some scents for tomorrow's expose. I have Versus on right now and though i bought it at the store, it just doesn't sit right with me at the moment. I can't see what intrigued me so at the shop. It's a linear (one dimensional) lemony scent. Lemon and moss. Should have splashed on the Roma Uomo instead. I probably should pick The Dreamer instead! :-/

  12. #12

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Here's to classics again!

    Got a light hangover after yesterday's party so I'm not into stronger scents today.  
    My SOTD (for Sunday, Feb 29, 2004) is Monsieur de Givenchy (1959).

    THE REVIEW (posted later)

    Gender marketed: male

    THE BASIS
    Concentration: Eau de Toilette
    Form/package: 50ml (1.7 fl.oz.) retail bottle
    Where purchased: retail shop
    Price paid: $20
    Personal experience: about 20 ml worn

    THE SMELL
    The scent starts out with rich but "matt" green-citrus accord (bergamot, lemon and maybe smth. else) and gains something flowery when developing.
    In the citrus-woody heart note accord, due to some spice added, its freshness gets kinda dense, like that of deep forest after the rain. A beautiful lavendery note rounds the scent perfectly. The accord also has some fougere-like quality to it. I can feel an orange note in there too.
    The base is charmingly deep and animal (due to civet note) with some mossy-woody and maybe even musty undertones to it. Though I'd call this accord a 'velvet' in character for its softness.
    The overall character of the scent is hesperide (citrus) of a subdued kind.
    It's somewhat hard to talk of linearity with citrus scents. Most of them change (from, of course, citrus to some woody/musky/spicy etc. notes), but quite a few change substantially. Monsieur de Givenchy does change meaning it doesn't smell the same all the way. The smell goes its way from green-citrus to mossy and animal notes, but the whole harmony remains.

    THE FEEL
    My overall feel of the scent is very calm and harmonious. It doesn't add much to the mood, just leaves me at being myself. A sudden whiff of the scent from myself during the day always brings some pleasant emotion.

    THE USE
    Average duration: 5-6 hrs
    Being a light citrus fragrance Monsieur de Givenchy would be better for warmer spring and summer seasons or year-round in some hot climates (but the latter also depends on humidity level, IMO).
    I wear it as a daytime fragrance. The scent is smooth and discreet (that "de"-sign of nobility in the name is quite righteous), and if you get its style it would suit any occasion except, probably, a workout and a beach-style. It would be a perfect everyday scent in your wardrobe.

    THE MULTIGENDER CAPABILITY
    I think a brave woman can wear this fragrance (not that easily but still) 'cause of its light, fresh and harmonious feel evoked by citrus (though, sharp at first) and lavender notes. It shouldn't be any problem at all if she likes Jicky (that is much heavier on civet), but if she doesn't the fragrance might take some getting used to. ;D

    THE VERDICT
    Its one of my most favourite classic scents. I love it for its unique harmony, it's a very well put together blend of notes and undertones. Though a good bunny for those who'd love beating a dead horse of "smelling like an old man". It is no doubt a scent with history. Not only means that its release date, but more of some aristocratic (but not that pretentious) character it has.

    ----- made with Comprehensive Fragrance Review Pattern -------------

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  13. #13

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    It's too bad so many of the classic designer fragrances simply do not agree with me.  Many of the heavy mossy fragrances even give me headaches.  My tastes are such that I have only six designer fragrances that predate 1987 that I've given four stars or more to, and here they are...

    4 stars...
    Tabac original 1959
    Calvin 1981
    Santos concentree 1982
    Obsession 1986
    Zino Davidoff 1986

    ...and the only five star designer fragrance pre-1987, BEL AMI.

    These would be the only classics I would wear.  I still have many classics in my wardrobe I consider to be 3,2 and 1 stars, but I never wear them and am in the process of finding new homes for them. If you're looking for some Boucheron, Gucci, Bijan, YSL, Capucci, or many others, I'm your man.  

    ~Clinton

  14. #14

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    29.02.04 (Sunday)
    SOTD: Sung Homme ( 1988 )

    Perhaps the ultimate spicy scent of the 80s. Sung Homme detracts from the generic vetiver+patchouli combo of its time. The majority of fragrances with that combo turn out to be dark, mysterious and brooding but Sung tempers the combo with bright citrus and spices that sharpens the note considerably. Perhaps the timing of its birth has something to do with the creative edge ie. towards the end of the 80s, people were probably crying out for something fresher than the usual vertiver+patchouli combo. In that sense, Sung heralds the coming of the fresh and clean 90s.
    It has Thyme, Sage, Pepper, Geranium, Vetiver and Oakmoss. The herbs work well to give a fresh and uplifting feel to the scent. It is herbaceously clean. To my nose, it smells like a person fresh after a shower. I use it in that context as well, with brilliant results. The wet hair, damp skin, cleanshaven-look, add a spritz of Sung and you're sexiness extreme.
    Personally, i've never been a fan of the fresh and clean that pervades the fragrance industry today, but the classic's take on that theme, based on herbs and spices is refreshingly retro. To me, it's taking an old forgotten scent, using it in a modern setting, to transform old and campy into new and innovative! Some of it is the way you carry the scent. Confident, charismatic, cool, it says you don't care what people think but this is the way ahead and you know it. The rest is the fragrance. This is one even the 20+ age group can carry off with confidence. If Sung was produced today, it would have been spoiled by too much sweetness; a scent carried too far so to speak. It would be cloying with too much vanille or tonka bean note, the sign of our time. Sometimes, the most brilliant perfumers must know when to stop fiddling and say this is IT. Indeed, Sung is IT with fresh, clean herbaceous spiciness, not a hint of vanille in this one.  

    Oh... on a side note, it lasts. What more can you ask for?  ;D

  15. #15

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    If predating 87 is required for classics, I was prepubescent during the classic era. This might explain why 0 of the fragrances I own predate 87, Cool Water(88) - first cologne - just misses by a year. I do have two vetivers on the way, but I don't know if they are classics, and I haven't really smelled them before. So, here's to learning about the classics from people more knowledgeable than myself in this regard. Cheers ;D

  16. #16

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by drewstyle
    If predating 87 is required for classics, I was prepubescent during the classic era.  
    Yeah, i suppose i better qualify my selections for classics. For me, i consider fragrances which have lasted more than 10 years. That is just arbitrary, based on the short lifespan of fragrances these days, a decade sounds about right. That means fragrances predating 1994.

  17. #17

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by milamber
    29.02.04 (Sunday)
    SOTD: Sung Homme ( 1988 )

    Perhaps the ultimate spicy scent of the 80s. Sung Homme detracts from the generic vetiver+patchouli combo of its time. The majority of fragrances with that combo turn out to be dark, mysterious and brooding but Sung tempers the combo with bright citrus and spices that sharpens the note considerably. Perhaps the timing of its birth has something to do with the creative edge ie. towards the end of the 80s, people were probably crying out for something fresher than the usual vertiver+patchouli combo. In that sense, Sung heralds the coming of the fresh and clean 90s.
    It has Thyme, Sage, Pepper, Geranium, Vetiver and Oakmoss. The herbs work well to give a fresh and uplifting feel to the scent. It is herbaceously clean. To my nose, it smells like a person fresh after a shower. I use it in that context as well, with brilliant results. The wet hair, damp skin, cleanshaven-look, add a spritz of Sung and you're sexiness extreme.
    Personally, i've never been a fan of the fresh and clean that pervades the fragrance industry today, but the classic's take on that theme, based on herbs and spices is refreshingly retro. To me, it's taking an old forgotten scent, using it in a modern setting, to transform old and campy into new and innovative! Some of it is the way you carry the scent. Confident, charismatic, cool, it says you don't care what people think but this is the way ahead and you know it. The rest is the fragrance. This is one even the 20+ age group can carry off with confidence. If Sung was produced today, it would have been spoiled by too much sweetness; a scent carried too far so to speak. It would be cloying with too much vanille or tonka bean note, the sign of our time. Sometimes, the most brilliant perfumers must know when to stop fiddling and say this is IT. Indeed, Sung is IT with fresh, clean herbaceous spiciness, not a hint of vanille in this one.  

    Oh... on a side note, it lasts. What more can you ask for?  ;D
    Weird, I just bought this one today.

    It was a good buy! I love the purple juice, and the fragrance puts me in the weirdest mood.

  18. #18

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    01.03.04 (Monday)
    SOTD: Chanel Pour Monsieur (1955)

    Well, it's been so much discussed here (along with comparing it to 1989 Concentree version), so I'll say just a few words.

    THE REVIEW (posted later)

    Gender marketed: male

    THE BASIS
    Concentration: Eau de Toilette
    Form/package: 50ml (1.7 fl.oz.) retail bottle
    Where purchased: retail shop
    Price paid: $50
    Personal experience: about 10 ml worn

    THE SMELL
    The scent starts out with sharp citrus accord of lemon and some other citrus notes. It has some light green and subdued character.
    In the heart note appear spicy accord (coriander, maybe ginger and smth else) with some deeper, almost woody, but "partly visible" sweetness on the background. It feels more smooth than the one in Concentree version.
    The base note is quite logical sweet woody and mossy accord. Quite a rich one.
    The overall character of the scent is chypre. Therefore, it changes perfectly from citrus to spice and then to sweet and mossy woods.

    THE FEEL
    My overall feel of the scent is perfectly gentlemanlike, calm, tailored, restrained and noble. I feel like I'm wearing a custom-built suit that fits me exactly, so I even hardly can feel it on. It's wonderful!

    THE USE
    Average duration: 6-8 hrs
    After some 20 mins it sits VERY close to skin. The fragrance is not heavy and has not that good staying power, so it's better be worn during warmer seasons. I think this scent will suit good any occasion that pretends to be of some style: whatever formal or casual. Its smooth and restrained character makes it better for daytime wear.
    And DO NOT try to sniff this fragrance from any paper strips! It smells just a BIG citrus there and does not expose the essence. For better sniff use your skin only!

    THE MULTIGENDER CAPABILITY
    I think it's quite wearable by women, especially those who love various chypres. Hope starting citrus would feel mellowed on woman's skin.

    THE VERDICT
    It is a PERFECT classic chypre scent! I came to it from the Concentree side. I love Pour Monsieur very much and would never be tired it. Also lasting power on me is good enough. A must try, just to see what that real pure "chypre" is.

    ----- made with Comprehensive Fragrance Review Pattern -------------

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  19. #19

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    01.03.04 (Monday)
    SOTD: Trussardi L'Uomo (1995)

    What's the unique ingredient in this one? Well, it's tomato leaves. Imagine the fruity sweet tomato mixed with Mandarin oranges and Bergamot. That's the essence of Trussardi L'Uomo. This scent is one that mixes well with my skin chemistry(nice way of saying BO ;D). It starts off very bright and citric, and ends off being musky lemony. Let me quote someone who has had an interesting experience with this scent:
    "I did a blind test once, giving 6 scents for 9 people in the room - L'UOMO, DARK BLUE, A'MEN, P Givenchy, L'EAU PAR and CHROME. The result was - 7 out of 9 chose L'UOMO as the scent they liked the most. Another guy liked CROME, and another one - A'MEN. All the girls liked Trussardi better. True story."
    by Ruslan , Russia , 2002/12/13.
    Well, you can't get a better endorsement than that!!! Certainly a very unique citrus that lasts. Oh... it's also discontinued!!! No surprises eh? Grab any bottle you can find. ;D

  20. #20

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    02.03.04 (Tuesday)
    SOTD: Romeo Gigli (1991)

    I was at my fav scent shop yesterday, sampling a lot of classics. Then i saw it, a dark green liquid housed in a champagne-like bottle. This one's topnotes will hit you square in the jaw. A knockout scent for sure. The topnotes include: Bergamot, Petitgrain, Neroli, Bitter Orange, Verbena, Rosewood, Sagebrush, Rosemary, Tarragon, Clary. Yeah, all that citrus and spice and everything nice in the top. In the middle, you get: Rose, Bourbon Geranium, Clove, Spices. But in the base: Oak, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Spruce Basalm, Blonde Tobacco, AMBERGRIS and CIVET!!! Woah!!! What a powerful drydown and as expected, the fragrance delivers. The citrus topnotes quickly dissipates into a full-bodied heart that is projected by the ambergris and civet notes. A fresh start, gets complicated and ends on a dirty sexy animalic note. Gigli is a citrus scent that becomes aromatic very quickly. This refined scent is not for boys though. It exudes manly sophistication. This is what Baldessarini wanted to be. It has the two missing ingredients ambergris and civet that Baldessarini tried to replace with tobacco. Nope, no cigars. Gigli has blonde tobacco to boot. It is so far in advance of its time. This is the precursor to scents like Cristobal and Le Male. And so much better in fact. It is twilight and passion in a bottle. Don't take my word for it. Here's the original review by a basenoter of excellent repute:
    "I had a small bottle of Gigli some years ago. Very good scent but hard to describe. It's very Italian - full bodied with spice, citrus and wood. I would say there is a strong note of patchouli - probably in the base. A little goes a long way. I am sorry I can't be more specific but it is well made scent. It is probably a fragrance that would not be suitable for someone very young - too sophisticated. Definitely not in the current fresh, clean and oceanic mode!"
    by Rob Machon , 2000/11/14.
    I am so happy i found this one. It is the scent Andre Agassi should have been advertising instead of the white noise Aramis Life. It is the scent to attract a Claudia Schiffer or Cindy Crawford. If you're eyeing Britney Spears, stick to Mugler's Cologne. This is one for Kylie Minogue. Separate the men from the boys.

  21. #21

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    02.03.04 (Tuesday)
    SOTD: Gucci Nobile,1988.

    THE REVIEW (posted later)

    Gender marketed: male

    THE BASIS
    Concentration: Eau de Toilette
    Form/package: 60ml (2 fl.oz.) retail bottle
    Where purchased: retail shop
    Price paid: $33
    Personal experience: approx. 20ml worn

    THE SMELL
    The scent starts out with a cold, very clean and subtle accord. It has a light-green smell and contains notes of lavender and rosemary with some citrus added (that is out of what I feel some 'cologney' smell there!).
    More green and flowery-spicy accord comes out in the heart note. I can feel jasmine and geranium there along with some 'rubbed green leaves'-note. Later appear some sweetness and some bitter undertone, these get the accord some light soapy feel.
    Then the scent develops into some dark-green deep forest woody and mossy tunes, and later into deeper and earthy base note accord on the very drydown.
    The overall character of the scent is fresh aromatic fougere scent with a green-earthy character. It is quite linear and uniform smelling.

    THE FEEL
    My overall feel of the scent is clean, subdued green, neat and restrained. It's quite subtle, comfortable and even mind-refreshing a little.

    THE USE
    Average duration: 12 hrs
    I highly recommend it for spring and summer office wear (and wear it myself this way). The scent sits close and doesn't leave much of a trail. It would probably not get you as much compliments as, say, Hanae Mori, but everyone you communicate with through the day would know you smell clean and good. Will suit a casual wear too but, as you can see, it's not that merry or playful.

    THE MULTIGENDER CAPABILITY
    Though it doesn't have any unequivocally masculine heavy notes, I think it is that obvious "cologney" masculine character that would prevent women from wearing it. Though Demi Moore in "Soldier Jane" have been probably wearing this one. ;D

    THE VERDICT
    I think it's a good thing of its time. I love this fragrance for its natural and clean feel.
    The fragrance looks so very classic and way too un-Gucci considering latest brand's image and marketing, Tom Ford's G-spot and all that. ;D
    There's not much to savour with this fragrance, so I just grab it and spray when I want to smell clean and classy. If you like modern green and clean smelling stuff like, say, Cologne, Bvlgari pour Homme, Good Life, Paco Rabanne EAU or new Vetiver Lanvin, you might like some of its classic background, the Gucci Nobile.

    ----- made with Comprehensive Fragrance Review Pattern -------------

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  22. #22

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    03.03.04 (Wednesday)
    SOTD: Signoricci 2 (Nina Ricci), 1976

    It's a classic and classy hesperide(citrus)-aromatic cologne.
    Very natural, sunny and bright lemon & Co. in the top note.
    It gains what they call "aromatic" with time. It is a gentemanly woody character with some smokey-powdery undertone.
    Great bottle by Lalique.

    According to Basenotes, after original Signoricci was discontinued, Signoricci 2 now has it's "2" dropped and is now marketed as just "Signoricci" so the scent itself is not discontinued.
    The most close to it, I think, is Goutal's Eau de Monsieur.

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  23. #23

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    03.03.04 (Wednesday)
    SOTD: Fahrenheit ( 1988 )

    A legend. That's what this fragrance has become, in more ways than one. It is so popular even today, that you'd never think it was a classic, but a classic it is. 16 years old classic. I would have to say that despite the age, it is still modern. This has been labelled a woody-floral scent, but to my nose it is more citric. I get a dominant bitter lime note all the way through. Some people have detected a petrochemical note in the topnotes and i have smelled this too. Not so clear when i first bought the scent, but more noticeable now, a year later. Don't worry, it melts into the scent and qualifies for the leather note in the base. Yeah, synthetic stuff!!! This is the house that Luca Turin loves to bash afterall. I wear this when i want to get compliments. It never fails. I will always keep a bottle of this in my collection but it will not get regular rotation. The synthetic pungency of this one is too much to take regularly. It is the weakest of the classics i've reviewed here, but then again, it is designed to linger unobtrusively, to caress the skin and impart a soft aura on the wearer.

  24. #24
    noirwest's Avatar
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    804

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    The very first time I ever smelled Farenheit I recoiled in disgust, petrochemical you ask? I daresay anyone who has ever stretched fence wire could tell you exactly what you are smelling, namely, good old fashioned creosote. Take a walk along a railroad track on a hot day and see if you don't catch a whiff of Farenhite drifting up as the wooden cossties heat up. Yup, good old pitch-pine based creosote wood treatment. It has always smelled like hard work to me but I've yet to meet the woman who didn't think it was fantastic. Go figure, or then again, if you can't be a cowboy you can at least smell like one after he's spent the day putting up barbed wire....

  25. #25

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Hey Milamber, just popping up on this thread to thank you for your interesting reviews on these fragrances! Informative and interesting, I'm getting a kick out of it. However long you want to keep doing this is groovy with me.
    (I like Fahrenheit too....)

  26. #26
    Maximillian
    Guest

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    I like the older scents. Wearing Antaeus(1982 or 81?) today.

    Mando

  27. #27

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by Coleman
    Hey Milamber, just popping up on this thread to thank you for your interesting reviews on these fragrances!  Informative and interesting, I'm getting a kick out of it.  However long you want to keep doing this is groovy with me.  
    (I like Fahrenheit too....)
    I can't keep it up much longer though. I have enough for this weekend when it is supposed to end. 9 days of classics and this followed 7 days of niche. No wonder i've been getting A LOT of attention from my lady colleagues recently. Certainly, i've been noticing the traffic flow past my desk has increased dramatically this past few weeks. :-*

    A big thanks and kudos to The-Odor for sticking with me on this thus far. I know it hasn't been easy! I'm usually shy by nature and all this attention is getting to be very uncomfortable for me. :-[

  28. #28

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by milamber

    A big thanks and kudos to The-Odor for sticking with me on this thus far.
    That was rude of me to not have thanked The-Odor as well. I was just kind of rushed when I made my post thanking Milamber. Apologies, The-Odor! Gracias!
    It seems most of the in-depth reviews on this board are for niche stuff which I'll probably never smell, so it's nice to come across some articulate cats describing some of the more down to earth (price-wise heh) stuff! Thank you both.


  29. #29

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Coleman, it's NOT the end. ;D

    Hey milamber,

    Thank YOU for the great thread. Sure I'm taking take the baton of paying a tribute to classics from you. Have some more scents for the next week It's all due to I don't have niche at all (except a couple of CdG's and one Gobin-Daude - Nuit au Desert).

    BTW Fahrenheit is DOOMED to be great all time classics in Russia 'cause it's one of the few scents that were the first to flood the country while the Iron Curtain has been falling. Bogart's One Man Show (the one I'm also gonna make a review of) had found its way into USSR "market" before that.

    NOW WHAT? Here's for today:
    04.03.04, Thursday
    SOTD: Paco Rabanne pour Homme (1973)

    1975 FiFi Award winner.
    It is aromatic fougere with a herbal-spicy character.
    Starts out with rather powerful accord of green citrus and herbal notes.
    After not a long time it gets much softer into a cool soapy scent with prominent laurel note and some sweet spice. The base note turns out to be more dry and has a touch of honey. Taking into account all that previous notes, this smells like imaginary salted "marine" honey (collected by marine bees with white and dark blue striped abdomens).

    When wearing this to work, I apply it a bit in advance to prevent surrounginds' contacts with mighty top note. It settles and gets softer on 5 to 10 minutes and I'm set.

    I love the scent so much. Always have it in my top5 fall-winter scents.
    It smells quite formal, but it certainly has some romantic feel deep inside as well. Never had a spoken compliment with this one, but noticed lots of ones expressed in involuntary gestures (ladies drawing themselves up, slightly adjusting their hair-dress etc.).

    Great all time classics. BTW I can see accords like these are rarely used in modern compositions, but at the same time when smelled, it would surely evoke some memories (whatever good) to those who remember 70s and 80s. I'm inexpressibly glad Paco Rabanne didn't turn the screws on it and launched new "eau de" for the modern crowd.

    Regards, Odor.

    P.S. I'm going to support this thread as long as I have some more classic colognes and have some interest in it. A "classics period" for me really! ;D
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  30. #30

    Default Re: A Tribute to the Classics of Scent

    Quote Originally Posted by The-odor
    P.S. I'm going to support this thread as long as I have some more classic colognes and have some interest in it. A "classics period" for me really! ;D
    Woah, how many classics do you have? Any contemporary fragrances in your wardrobe? I think you may have to carry this thread into next week coz i'm running out. Don't make me review Old Spice and Brut!!! Well, it's in good hands no doubt. And judging from the viewership, it's been a thrilling ride and great exposure for the classics. The aim has been achieved. ;D

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