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  1. #1
    Serpent
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    Default Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance House

    So I finally got my hands on Terre d'Hermès. Well, not a sample, because they claimed to be completely and entirely out, even though they've only had the scent for a microsecond. Uh huh. Yeah. But I put it on my skin. And all those rapturous claims that this was something truly special? Bullsh*t. Bull. Sh*t. Bullsh*t. This really should be called Un Jardin sur le Bullsh*t. That's right: It's another of the Jardins. The same lemon dishwashing detergent, just a different name and bottle.

    The nerve of Hermès! To sell the almost the exact same fragrance, three times over! At least Un Jardin en Méditerranée had the fig note, and Un Jardin sur le Nil had the acerbic green papaya and incense. Terre d'Hermès is the plainest, most boring yet. Seriously, does Jean-Claude Ellena have no ideas, or is he just mad and like foisting the same bad fragrance on customers over and over? It's citrus over bland, well, nothing. (Ellena crows about how there are so few ingredients in Terre d'Hermès; when the result is so poor, that may not be something to be proud of.) The citrus reminds me faintly of the citrus aldehydes of Comme des Garçons 2, the way they have a sort of metallic ring, but they're not nearly so bright or shiny (or "clever&quot. For a scent named for earth, this is full of Ellena's fake water. The bottom is the same vague dry woodiness of Un Jardin en Méditerranée, maybe a bit more bitter. But it's all so tired. After two Jardins, both so similar to each other, did we need a third? (I didn't even need the first.) Well, it doesn't matter asking, because we got it. Terre d'Hermès is a lazy, uninspired scent, and shame on the house of Équipage, Bel Ami, Calèche, and Doblis for releasing this mess. (Were it coming from an American designer, this scent would be pilloried on fragrance boards, which it should be.)

    If anyone questions the genius of the multi-faceted Eau des Merveilles, compare that wonderfully complex, shape-shifting fragrance against the new, flat, dull Terre d'Hermès. Eau des Merveilles, the last scent created before Hermès' great folly of hitching itself full-time to Ellena, outshines Terre d'Hermes in every way. I can't imagine there aren't people in the Hermès organization who aren't secretly dissatisfied with this creation, who see Ellena for what he is: their fragrance albatross. If Hermès has any sense, they'll release Ellena from his contract tout de suite.

    And if you're wondering what Ellena's first mainline women's launch for Hermès will smell like, let me spare you the suspense: It will smell almost exactly like Terre d'Hermès, which smelled almost exactly like Un Jardin sur le Nil, which smelled almost exactly like Un Jardin en Méditerranée.

    R.I.P. Hermès. You once were great.

  2. #2
    foetidus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    I figured as much from the absence of comments about it. Glad to hear from you again, Serpent.

  3. #3
    The-odor's Avatar
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Serpent,

    thanks for your review, saved me $65 (that's what they ask for a 50ml bottle here).

    I've been circling a bottle of TdH on the counter here in Moscow for a couple of weeks, sniffing it from time to time and thinking of purchasing it.

    From one point of view ..err smell it had "something" mineral of interest, from another - I really couldn't find anything about it that touched me. I expected a somewhat earthy scent - it's not the case. It's light and watery character drove me to conclusion I'm just too tough to appreciate such subtle ... khm, "nose pleasures".

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  4. #4

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    How unfortunate.
    I do love Hiris and Orange Vert from this house. I am actually craving these for the summer.
    I am not too impressed with the Un Jardins. Both have nothing to do with earth, so why calling the one one earth?
    Ayala Moriel, Perfumer
    Ayala Moriel Parfums http://www.ayalamoriel.com/
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  5. #5

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    DEATH OF A GREAT FRAGRANCE HOUSE??!!! OHH THE DRAMA OF IT ALL! LOL
    I happen to love Terre , I also own un jardin, and don't get what you are talking about......

  6. #6
    aubrgene's Avatar
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    I'll have to agree with the OP. The Terre fragrance is uninspired and completely forgettable. I was at the Hermes Boutique on Rodeo Drive yesterday . I did like Poive Samarande and it left a very unique and pleasant note on my skin. I think that will be my next Hermes fragrance.
    "A great perfume is a work of art, it can lift our days, haunt our nights and create the milestones of our memories. Fragrance is liquid emotion. And that never goes out of fashion. " MICHAEL EDWARDS

  7. #7

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    What a fabulous roundup of all that is incorrect and insipid about the Garden Twins and their newly budded offspring! Even in pre-release hype, I had no interest in Terre, all this due to an adventure, undertaken at the behest of a friend, to acquire a sample of Sur le Nil the day it was stocked. So locker-room cologne-ish was this to me (Jade East or Hai Karate or something liberally slapped about after a round of handball and a quick shower) that I was angry with it for making me drive for 120 miles of scented annoyance (well, the return trip anyway). The box trumped the scent, easily. The font trumped the scent. But then again, is he not the creator of the lye that is TDC Osmanthus? Why am I the only person who disliked that?

    Thank you for stripping bare the laundry, revealing it for the sullied pile it is.








  8. #8

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by foetidus
    I figured as much from the absence of comments about it. *Glad to hear from you again, Serpent. *
    it hadn't crossed my mind that the lack of significant reviews could be because of how poorly Terre is being received. especially considering how much excitement the launch seemed to be creating here on basenotes.

    i am a huge fan of Eau de Merveilles, and although not an Ellena creation, i was very intrigued and excited to read that Terre was being touted as the men's counterpart.

    Terre smelled barbershop/hair tonic to my nose. a friend of mine thought it smelled very "hetero". anyhow... i don't think that would keep it from becoming a huge seller! i probably wouldn't mind it on someone else, but it's def not for me.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by musclegod007
    DEATH OF A GREAT FRAGRANCE HOUSE??!!! OHH THE DRAMA OF IT ALL! LOL
    I happen to love Terre , I also own un jardin, and don't get what you are talking about......
    Exactly. No one said that EVERYONE should love this fragrance! I happen to like it.
    "Perfume is the dream that carries me."

    There is always the sky to look at

  10. #10

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    I really like the Jardins. Whilst most of the time I go for something with a big more kick, the subtlety and lightness (and this does not equate with fleeting and undefinable, at least imo) are two things I like in summer. Either you like Ellena's transparency and minimalist aesthetic, or you don't I guess.

    Funnily enough I was testing sure le Nil and en Mediterranee side by side yesterday. They're clearly cousins, but have a very different nasal impact.

    calm down Serpent, drop some diazepam, and spray on some rocabar.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Having to wait so long since Rocabar for the new men's scent, I'm surprised that it doesn't have the weight that the men's scents traditionally have. Guess it's a new type of guy they want to entice, even if it smells all too familiar.

    I don't think Parfums d'Hermes is necessarily dead yet, though.
    *********************



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  12. #12

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Hi Serpent, I didn't try TdH yet, but I'm disappointed with Elena too after trying FM Bigarade Concentre. I expected something new or different. After heavy and fresh citrusy opening notes (which I liked) disappeared, I smelled a relative of Declaration. The biggest difference between those two is just a price. Such a disappointment...

  13. #13

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    What a crock of shit! Attempting to taint the general opinion negatively before the people can experience the thing at issue is so lame. "Death... "! heh.. Get a life.

  14. #14
    Serpent
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Killer Vavoom
    What a crock of shit! Attempting to taint the general opinion negatively before the people can experience the thing at issue is so lame. "Death... "! heh.. Get a life.
    THAT'S RIGHT! *I'm secretly an agent of Chanel, and my post has many hidden subconscious messages to make you all go buy bottles of Allure instead of purchasing this wonderful new Hermès with its amazing new freshly-washed dishes accord!

    So what, I'm supposed to wait until everyone has smelled it until I post my opinion? *Or is that only what people who dislike something have to do? *And how shall we monitor this? *A poll perhaps? *By that measure, the people who didn't care for B*Men would get to have their opinions vetted just about now, I'd say.

    Why don't you follow some of your own advice and get a life of your own, because your logic is non-existent? *I'm just voicing my views, just like you're voicing yours, as cracked as they may be...

  15. #15

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    [quote author=Killer Vavoom link=1142730394/0#12 date=1142774755]What a crock of shit! Attempting to taint the general opinion negatively before the people can experience the thing at issue is so lame. "Death... "! heh.. Get a life.
    THAT'S RIGHT! I'm secretly an agent of Chanel, and my post has many hidden subconscious messages to make you all go buy bottles of Allure instead of purchasing this wonderful new Hermès with its amazing new freshly-washed dishes accord!

    So what, I'm supposed to wait until everyone has smelled it until I post my opinion? Or is that only what people who dislike something have to do? And how shall we monitor this? A poll perhaps? By that measure, the people who didn't care for B*Men would get to have their opinions vetted just about now, I'd say.

    Why don't you follow some of your own advice and get a life of your own, because your logic is non-existent? I'm just voicing my views, just like you're voicing yours, as cracked as they may be...[/quote]
    I suppose that the difference between a normal opinion and your rant is distinction. You obviously dislike the citrussy Jardin-range, but what on earth made you have to strike out so fiercely over the fact that Hermes is releasing yet another 'lemon dishwashing detergent'? How dare they, fire this pathetic Ellena!

    You may not have any commercial benefit of taking down Hermes, but it can't be that hard to just keep your voice down to a 'I don't like it', instead of creating this unnecessary atmosphere. Even if you hate it so badly.
    "Perfume is the dream that carries me."

    There is always the sky to look at

  16. #16
    Serpent
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by BrothaG
    I suppose that the difference between a normal opinion and your rant is distinction. You obviously dislike the citrussy Jardin-range, but what on earth made you have to strike out so fiercely over the fact that Hermes is releasing yet another 'lemon dishwashing detergent'? How dare they, fire this pathetic Ellena!

    You may not have any commercial benefit of taking down Hermes, but it can't be that hard to just keep your voice down to a 'I don't like it', instead of creating this unnecessary atmosphere. Even if you hate it so badly.
    Wow, you really just don't get it, do you? *Did you miss the whole point of my post? *I'll write what I want. *Hermès has married themselves to a perfumer dead-set on cranking out the same shoddy, simplistic fragrance over and over and over. *Unless you want to pay almost $200 for a bottle of Hermessence, good luck on getting something good from them now. *Yeah, Hermès has officially gone down the drain as far as I'm concerned. *I just posted it AGAIN!

    So when the opinion goes against yours, I need to "keep [my] voice down"? *That's not how it works, teacher. *This is an open forum. *My post didn't violate any of the rules. *If you don't like the "unnecessary atmosphere" of my threads, don't click on them. *I'm fairly notorious by now, so you should just know to avoid me. *Easy as that. *Sorry if I hurt your feelings by insulting your perfume, but hey, suck it up. *If you love Terre d'Hermès, great. *Go buy eight bottles. *Spend your $720. *Be happy. *Me, I think it sucks. *I've been a huge Hermès fan, and I'm more insulted by their terrible new releases than anything anyone can say about a fragrance.

  17. #17
    paintrman's Avatar
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Serpent...

    I say keep up the good work. I find people with strong opinions refreshing! Believe me, there is no confusion on where you stand.

    Come on guys, he spent a lot of money on a fragrance and feels totally ripped off. I think he deserves to gripe. I am strong enough not to be swayed and will probably test this when I get back to the States later in the year. However, I have seen an alarming trend with the new Elena's over the past few years. Yes, I have to admit I was a sucker and bought a full bottle of Malle's Bigarade Concentree' blind (so short lived that it's just cheaper to wear the bottle around your neck and smell it every now and then) and have seen a trend up through Declaration and the Jardins. I do think Elena is an artist but when it comes to my money...I think I will buy something with more silage and that lasts longer than an hour (or in the case of Bigarade Concentree', about 20 minutes).

    Kelley

  18. #18
    Serpent
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Oh, no, no, no! *I didn't buy it. *But, as samples were unavailable (or the sales associates were just being tight-fisted with the plebs not carrying Birkins that morning), I doused myself in the stuff. *Damn, I felt like I had dishpan body all day long! Moreover, Hermès is a house very dear to my heart, the house that makes three of the two of the four scents I love most, Équipage and Eau d'Hermès. (I'm also wild about Eau des Merveilles, I insist on wearing Rocabar when it rains, and I've given Bel Ami as a gift several times, and it always became that guy's signature scent.) Hermès is my house, so to see it slide like this wounds me.

    I agree with you, paintrman - Where is the genius who made First? *Bring back that Ellena! *He has these obsessions, it seems, like he's the hermit perfumer who wants to just make the same scent over and over, changing just... *one... * note... *Ugh! *He's dangerously close to becoming the Philip Glass of perfumery, with his five-note scents that sort of drone atonally on to nowhere. *Someone at Hermès has to see this as the emperor's new clothes. *I can't imagine sales for this will be through the roof - I really can't - and Hermès is putting some money (for them) behind promotion on this, too. *They seem to want a hit.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Serpent:

    I totally support your right to write what you feel as long as it does not violate the rules of the forum -- your post did no such thing!

    Whatever happened to free speech!
    "You can ignore reality, but you can't ignore the consequences of ignoring reality." - Ayn Rand

    "I hold it that a little rebellion now and then is a good thing, and as necessary in the political world as storms in the physical...It is a medicine necessary for the sound health of government." - Thomas Jefferson

  20. #20

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    If you don't like the "unnecessary atmosphere" of my threads, don't click on them.
    I love that "unnecessary atmosphere" *;D. Even more so, I love the substance in your posts.

    ...I need to "keep [my] voice down"?
    No. Please don´t!

    As for Hermes...I am far from familiar with the whole range. I love and adore Hiris! And, yes I am very fond of Jardin sur le Nil. (the mango-floral-incense body really charmed me, and I am generally quite bored with citrus). I have not tried Rouge and Caleche yet..they are on my mini-to-get list.

    Ellena..well I´ll forgive him for anything since the moment I smelled Bois D´Iris!



  21. #21

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Vinterdroppe
    [quote author=Serpent link=1142730394/15#15 date=1142783592]If you don't like the "unnecessary atmosphere" of my threads, don't click on them.
    I love that "unnecessary atmosphere" ;D. Even more so, I love the substance in your posts.

    ...I need to "keep [my] voice down"?
    No. Please don´t![/quote]

    Hear hear! I really enjoyed Serpent's post. Stimulating, interesting and colorful. Exactly the sort of thing that makes Basenotes so much fun. Keep on posting, Serpent!




  22. #22
    Serpent
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Vinterdroppe
    As for Hermes...I am far from familiar with the whole range. I love and adore Hiris!
    I also love Hiris... and I mourn we won't see the likes of it again as it was an Olivia Giacobetti scent. Hermès' fragrance overseers seem to feel their line lacked cohesion, but all their scents had a common thread of elegance and sobriety, no matter who their nose was. Meanwhile at Chanel, even while Jacques Polge was their steady hand, the scents have been spinning wildly away from the house aesthetic - just smell the grotesqueries coming out of that company lately. A house nose is not necessarily a good idea.

    And, yes I am very fond of Jardin sur le Nil. (the mango-floral-incense body really charmed me, and I am generally quite bored with citrus).
    Even if one loves the Jardins, does one need it three times over? I love Kingdom, but I don't need to have three ever-so-slightly different versions. One is good, then give me something completely unique.

    I have not tried Rouge and Caleche yet..they are on my mini-to-get list.
    These scents are rich, lush, unbelievably elegant - completely the opposite of what Ellena's producing, practically photo negatives of his current output (as is his first major creation, Van Cleef & Arpels' First).

    Ellena..well I´ll forgive him for anything since the moment I smelled Bois D´Iris!
    But this feeds another major beef I have with Ellena's current scents: To get anything worthwhile from him, one must pay through the nose. He only wants to put any effort into his creations, it seems, if the retail's going to be superexpensive. Only his scents for The Different Company and the Hermessences have much elaboration, and even then, not as much as your average Versace. His Malles, while pleasant, are the slightest and most spare of the line and have the poorest longevity. Not only does he strike me as lazy, but he also seems hyperélitist. In that respect, Ellena's beginning to make Olivier Creed look like a red-shirted Marxist...

  23. #23

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    I love strong opinions - the world needs more of them, IMO...and less diplomatic tolerance of mediocrity as well. I enjoy reading posts like this as it reminds me that this is a board built around a shared passion, and for a passion to have any substance or meaning, it must be built upon strong feelings and the right to express them.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    I was really hoping this fragrance was going to be a good summertime scent. And it's not that I hated Un Jardin en Méditerranée or Un Jardin sur le Nil, I just thought they were WAY too feminine for my taste. They both seem SO much better suited for a woman.

    Regardless, I'll still sample it when I get the chance ... though I'm not getting my hopes up. Hermes still has a good place in my wardrobe ... with D'Orange Verte Concentre being in my top 5 day/casual scents, and Bel Ami being in my top 5 night/formal scents.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    Ugh! He's dangerously close to becoming the Philip Glass of perfumery, with his five-note scents that sort of drone atonally on to nowhere.
    This line was just excellent!

    Still haven't tried Terre d'Hermès and I still really really want too. Loved the original post as well btw.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Serpent, I haven't tried Terre, but going from the Jardin releases, I'd bet you've accurately summed it up. Hermes needs some new life in their men's line - I was thinking, they need something daring, a new leather, something with a warm spice, maybe a merchant loup-like nut accord, and rich resinous woods :


  27. #27

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    I still have to sample this and I wouldn't mind if this scent was indeed not daring or whatever.Sometimes a boring scent is ok with me. (not every scent has to contain food, leather, or nasty whalevomit to be interesting for me),but I agree with Serpent , after the two Jardins and the two citrus Frederick Malles , a bit more "balls" would have been great. I still had hoped for something like Declaration,with the smoky, earthy notes. But again, i still have to sample this.

  28. #28
    Serpent
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Ric
    Serpent, I haven't tried Terre, but going from the Jardin releases, I'd bet you've accurately summed it up. Hermes needs some new life in their men's line - I was thinking, they need something daring, a new leather, something with a warm spice, maybe a merchant loup-like nut accord, and rich resinous woods *:
    A new leather would be fantastic. Men haven't had a really sensational leather scent in a long time. Had Hermès released Cuiron instead of Helmut Lang, it would have been an instant classic, I suspect; after all, Hermès is renowned for their leather goods. A lighter, fresh chypre would be awesome, too, like Rocabar but not so heavy, or Coriolan but not so stiff. Or - and I'm just thinking out loud here - maybe they need a new perfumer?

    This is the first mainline, gendered (i.e., non-unisex) release since Ellena took the reigns. While there is certainly more character to the Hermessence line, the scents all still have that same sketchy quality, with three of the five - Vétiver Tonka, Rose Ikebana, and Osmanthe Yunnan - having Ellena's overfetishized wateriness to some degree (small in the vetiver scent) or another (huge in the two florals). Apparently a women's mainline scent is next up, and I imagine it will be like Un Jardin en Méditerranée with a hit of jasmine to it. Water with some flowers. The next Hermès.

    But what's sad is, Hermès' scents once had weight. It's all missing now. They wanted a signature house style, but all their new stuff clashes so badly with their classics. In trying to create a unity, they've instead bred terrible disharmony in their library. Both Olivia Giacobetti's Hiris and Ralf Schweiger's (with Nathalie Feisthauer) Eau des Merveilles are modern scents that work with the Hermès style - past and present - much better than Ellena's. Either would have been a better selection as their house perfumer than would have Ellena, I think.

    Hermès' men's scents used to have this aura of effortless luxury - it all seemed just so natural. Now, they're just trying too hard. And failing. The beauty of Hermès is, one doesn't go to them for something new and daring. One turns to them for timeless elegance. Now, we're getting trendy slapdash niche scents with poor quality and high price tags. It's as if Chanel started peddling Keiko Mecheri scents, which, with the hiring of Christopher Seldrake... yikes.

    I'm scared. I'm very scared.

  29. #29
    Why So Serious?
    HackerX's Avatar
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    I have never tried the two Jardins so i could not compare the Terre with them. *I went to the boutique without knowing much about the line, and i was never a big fan of Ellena, i was disappointed in Declaration and Bigarade. *But Terre was a pleasant surprise. *I wasn't moved with the top notes at all, that strong burst of grapefruit actually turned me off, and Serpent is right, it did remind me of dish washing detergent. *Then it evolved into something that was totally amazing, the grapefruit has calmed but still apparent, the spciness of pepper rushed out of the gate in desparation, but the rush remained a mere half an hour. *At this point it really revealed its true character, i could smell the wood, the warmth of rocks, and there was something floral about it, it was as if the dessert had grown flowers out of a miracle, and the wind blew by carrying the dust and the smell of lillies, at that stage the grapefruit still lingered vividly in the background, giving the overall dryness some life. *Eventually the fragrance became softer, dryer and a skin-like warmth and sweetness that i have never experienced. *The magic of this fragrance lies in its evolution, it has a simple composition, yet it seems like a thousand elements are evolving at once and trying to dominate one another, the end result is supernova. *I've really come to appreciate this piece of art, it has done well on my skin, something in it reminds me of Passage d'Enfer, except this time we are well above ground.
    Current top 5:
    1. Puredistance M
    2. Naomi Goodsir Bois d'Ascese
    3. Amouage Fate Man
    4. Creed Spice & Wood
    5. Bond 9 Harrods Oud

  30. #30

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Well, Serpent, I read your thread as it was my first time in Basenotes!

    I`m with you - and have some propositions...

    1) Well, Hermes was all about elegance and sobriety. Yes, it is right now.
    How it comes? You should just take into consideration that perfume world has changed - all those light, watery, non-offensive, nothing-to-say-about, fresh, cool fragrances flood it all over!!!!
    And the fact classicist and elitist House of Hermes put their hand on this theme is - The very good sign!!!!
    For me it means that watery airy scents are going to Letha! Watery-floral are going to past, to let us have The Brighter Stronger (Leathery) Future!
    At least I hope so...

    2) I`m not the fan of Jean-Claude Ellena - but I LOVE three of his non-Hermes creations. Namely Bois d`Iris TDC, Angeliques sur la Pluie and Eau d`Hiver by Editions de Parfums FM. I think it`s enough to respect him as talented perfumer.
    You know - it`s like in painting. When you are not very interested by Nikolai Ge (his pictures in Russian textbooks were horrible for schoolboys!) but only one his picture of Crucifixion in Musee d`Orsay gives you powerful Insight!
    So I`m not with you - to fire JC Ellena from Hermes.

    3) One thought about tendence revealed by Hermes and some other Mainstream Houses (Armani, Kenzo, Dior Homme, Prada, Guerlain).
    As we all know - they make a line of lux fragrances to sell worldwide in 1000s of doors - and 1 serie of elite-lux fragrances to sell in headquarter stores and boutiques - for super-extra-money.
    Yes, the quality is very different.
    Usual lux has mainstream character of fashionable perfumes - and elitist has something near niche quality (not always, but still).

    And now is the belief.
    I believe that those Houses DEFINITELY AND WITH PURPOSE trying to broaden the gap between Lux and Elite-Lux.
    My opinion is all those Big Houses has lost their respectable image when sell their perfumes in malls and supermarkets (amongst spagetti, t-shirts, butter, bread, boots and detergents). They has lost their LUX quality in a race for bigger distribution and for big bucks.
    Now they are trying to fly high again.

    And making usual range a bit more boring by TDH and Jardins boredom - Hermes also makes Hermessences shining brighter!

    I`m very serious, but my English still not native, sorry for that. Hope you get my points.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  31. #31

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Oh, and I forget one more thing to help JC Ellena being the in-house perfumer instead of Serpent furious comments! ;D

    It is very common thing in any House.
    PERFUME BRIEF.

    No perfumer makes perfumes from the blank sheet of paper. They get the brief from brand-managers, where all the qualities of future perfumes described.
    So - bad perfumes comes from bad briefs...
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  32. #32

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Ric
    Serpent, I haven't tried Terre, but going from the Jardin releases, I'd bet you've accurately summed it up. Hermes needs some new life in their men's line - I was thinking, they need something daring, a new leather, something with a warm spice, maybe a merchant loup-like nut accord, and rich resinous woods :
    If you think about it, it really is a breath of new life to the bold stuffy and stodgy visage of Hermes for men. They've definitely changed the target demographic to the twenty-something to early thirty-something crowd rather than the middle aged magnate. Their prices have kept the same though, just to keep the exclusivity beyond the affordable. I don't know what the rant is about picking up an Hermessance when someone is gladly willing to pick up a Creed for the same price. After all, Hermes was the saddler for royalty, and anything they make seemed to be out of reach for me, I never thought ANY towel was worth $200. But what can you do, their line wasn't intended for the average bloke. Be happy that a post retail bottle of thier older scents can be found on eBay for cheap. I've decided that I can wait a year so I can find a bottle at a discount website rather than spend $85.

    On the other hand, I too was wanting something bold, elegant, and different, but hey, I guess the person that wants to spend $5000+ on a bag wants to be doused with vegetable juice fortified with minerals!
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  33. #33
    cedriceccentric's Avatar
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    The thing is that both Jardins were very successfull. The even more successfull (and somewhat bolder) Eau des Merveilles (Edit: Yes, Serpent I know it's not from Jean Claude Ellena!) is imho also an "eau fraiche" type of fragrance.
    The perfume division of Hermès has long been a bit of a "Sleeping Beauty". With the words of CHANDLER BURR: "Jean-Louis Dumas Hermès, the chairman of the company wanted to fix a delicate problem: Hermès had an elegant perfume collection that included classic scents like Calèche and 24, Faubourg, yet they sold only modestly. Chanel, one of Hermès’s chief rivals, made ten times as much money on perfume."
    Now that Hermès found a niche in the perfume offer for people who like fresh and discreet fragrances, sales have been rising. So unless they have a flop, they are not going to change strategies for a while.




  34. #34

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by cedriceccentric
    The thing is that both Jardins were very successfull. The even more successfull (and somewhat bolder) Eau des Merveilles is imho also an "eau fraiche" type of fragrance.
    The perfume division of Hermès has long been a bit of a "Sleeping Beauty". With the words of CHANDLER BURR: "Jean-Louis Dumas Hermès, the chairman of the company wanted to fix a delicate problem: Hermès had an elegant perfume collection that included classic scents like Calèche and 24, Faubourg, yet they sold only modestly. Chanel, one of Hermès’s chief rivals, made ten times as much money on perfume."
    Now that Hermès found a niche in the perfume offer for people who like fresh and discreet fragrances, sales have been rising. So unless they have a flop, they are not going to change strategies for a while.


    Ditto! I wouldn't have found better words, Cedric!
    I only like to add that they had already bolder scents in their shelves like Bel Ami, Rocabar, Rue du Fabourg 24, and Rouge, So they needed a bit to complete the line with something fresher...

  35. #35
    Serpent
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by cedriceccentric
    The thing is that both Jardins were very successfull. The even more successfull (and somewhat bolder) Eau des Merveilles is imho also an "eau fraiche" type of fragrance.
    The perfume division of Hermès has long been a bit of a "Sleeping Beauty". With the words of CHANDLER BURR: "Jean-Louis Dumas Hermès, the chairman of the company wanted to fix a delicate problem: Hermès had an elegant perfume collection that included classic scents like Calèche and 24, Faubourg, yet they sold only modestly. Chanel, one of Hermès’s chief rivals, made ten times as much money on perfume."
    Now that Hermès found a niche in the perfume offer for people who like fresh and discreet fragrances, sales have been rising. So unless they have a flop, they are not going to change strategies for a while.
    Eau des Merveilles should not be categorized with Ellena's output because - besides being far, far superior to his Jardins and Terre d'Hermès - it's not one of his creations. *What Hermès has done with Ellena is yes, drawn some attention to their scents with some fresh output, but what one should consider is, are these scents lasting fragrances? *Does one see Terre d'Hermès being a scent that sells well twenty years from now as Équipage and Bel Ami do? *I doubt it. *I see it lingering around in the back, a relic like Amazone, very much of-its-day. *This is not a scent of the ages. *It's not Hermès doing what it does best - being timeless - but trying to chase trends. *The house has been accused of doing the same with their bags in this year's collections, much to the chagrin of the fashion press. *It seems that Hermès, for all their talk of being above houses like Louis Vuitton and such, is ripping off pages from their marketing books, but they're not doing it very well.

    Hermès may have a temporary bump in sales, but they're not building a legacy. *In trying to be like Chanel, they've become something more like Ralph Lauren. *What's next? *Terre d'Hermès Sport?

  36. #36
    Why So Serious?
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    What's next? *Terre d'Hermès Sport?
    LOL! *

    Maybe they should have made the Terre as an exclusive release, so they could worry about it less in the long run.
    Current top 5:
    1. Puredistance M
    2. Naomi Goodsir Bois d'Ascese
    3. Amouage Fate Man
    4. Creed Spice & Wood
    5. Bond 9 Harrods Oud

  37. #37
    Serpent
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    By the way, this whole rant could apply to Chanel, too. *Their last two women's releases - Allure Sensuelle and Chance Eau de Parfum - might have given me Type 2 Diabetes, the sugar shock from the tutti-frutti awfulness was so great. *And Allure Homme Sport? *How did a Tommy Hilfiger scent end up on the Chanel counter, anyway? *How the mighty have fallen. *As I've said about eight times in this thread: *A house nose isn't necessarily a good thing, and Chanel seems to realize this since they're bringing in help. *They're unraveling at chez Coco. *But, for some reason, this is the model Hermès has chosen...

  38. #38
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    I think it's a beautiful fragrance. Just because there aren't a multitude of ingredients doesn't mean it can't smell beautiful. The simplicity of the grapefruit topnotes and the earthy quality of the patchouli base really make a wonderful combination, to me anyway. Can't get enough of it. ;D

  39. #39

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Victoria over at Bois de Jasmin has new (positive) review.
    I love her writing.

    http://boisdejasmin.typepad.com/_/20...e_hermes_.html

  40. #40

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    I have not tried this one. I loved Un Jardin en Meditereanee but I hated the sur le nil. The thought of this one does not excite me but if I am ever in a situation to try it, I will. A modern leather scent by Hermes would be much appreciated. As far as chanel, I hate allure.

  41. #41

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    *Does one see Terre d'Hermès being a scent that sells well twenty years from now as Équipage and Bel Ami do? *I doubt it. *I see it lingering around in the back, a relic like Amazone, very much of-its-day. *This is not a scent of the ages. *It's not Hermès doing what it does best - being timeless - but trying to chase trends. *The house has been accused of doing the same with their bags in this year's collections, much to the chagrin of the fashion press. *It seems that Hermès, for all their talk of being above houses like Louis Vuitton and such, is ripping off pages from their marketing books, but they're not doing it very well.

    Hermès may have a temporary bump in sales, but they're not building a legacy. *In trying to be like Chanel, they've become something more like Ralph Lauren. *What's next? *Terre d'Hermès Sport?
    Serpent!
    I like your pathetic and anger!
    Well, I can see TdH that sells 20 years. I do not want it to be. Let`s see, how it will be in sales.
    I`m not so Fast & Furious in my opinions as you are.
    For me - one bad cologne release does not mean that The House is dead.
    No one House can do only bestsellers which will be a favorites of all.

    I`m not agree that Hermes is chasing after world perfumer tendencies.
    Hermes (as Guerlain) does take fashionable ideas to pollinate them by golden timeless pollen.
    Sometimes it does mean that the theme is going to its perfect end, sometimes not.
    They are not trying to innovate and to discover something super-new, but they tend to say the last word and close the perfumer discussion.

    And that`s a good sign. Maybe soon we`ll see perfumer world full of leather scents...
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  42. #42

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    It's a beautiful, elegant, refreshing fragrance and sufficiently dictinct from its outdoorsy cousins. *Elena has a good way farther to go to balance and freshen up the Hermès line and bring it into more modern territory.

    From Chandler Burr's review:

    Which is why four new masculines— Dior Homme | Dior, Terre d'Hermès | Hermès, Cannabis Santal | Fresh, and Black XS | Paco Rabanne— are so surprising. They aren't good. They're stellar. These are innovatively engineered, beautifully built, ingenious scents, and, mated with one of the great overlooked masculines, M7 Fresh | Yves Saint Laurent, these things constitute the cutting edge.
    http://www.chandlerburr.com/newsite/...meprevious.php

    From the Now Smell This review:

    while it smells nothing like Eau des Merveilles, they share a similar kind of feeling: an airy outdoorsiness, the smell of warm skin, and a kind of clean finish that happily doesn't evoke laundry soap [or dish detergent]...

    It is beautifully done. The primary reason that I am such a huge fan of Jean Claude Ellena is that he always knows when to leave well enough alone.
    http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/b...2/1788968.html

    According to Escentual, the fragrance is meant to be the masculine counterpart to Hermès Eau des Merveilles: "This is for the man who has his feet firmly on the ground, but his head is in the stars."

    It is not unexpected that this would not be for a man who does not have his feet on the ground or his imagination in the stars but seeks to drag everything he does not understand down instead to some mid-level morass.


  43. #43
    Serpent
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by sanddrift
    According to Escentual, the fragrance is meant to be the masculine counterpart to Hermès Eau des Merveilles: "This is for the man who has his feet firmly on the ground, but his head is in the stars."

    It is not unexpected that this would not be for a man who does not have his feet on the ground or his imagination in the stars but seeks to drag everything he does not understand down instead to some mid-level morass.
    Oh. *My. *God.

    It's happened. *It's finally happened. *People have bought into it. *Wholesale. *Lemmings off the cliff. *And here's the proof! *Someone is using the company's actual publicity material in defense of a fragrance. *"You're just not the super creative spaceman that Hermès made this scent for, dumba**!" *What next? *If someone dislikes M7, will it be because his chest isn't as hirsute as the hairy naked dude in that ad? *If someone doesn't jive with Égoïste, is it because he's just too damn philanthropic?

    Kudos to the people who can defend the scent from what they smell. *And I guess I should give a hand to those who can make such gloriously insane defenses from such bizarre leaps of logic as "the ad told me it's good." *You're the sort of customer every luxury goods company dreams of.

  44. #44
    DustB's Avatar
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by sanddrift
    It's a beautiful, elegant, refreshing fragrance and sufficiently dictinct from its outdoorsy cousins. *Elena has a good way farther to go to balance and freshen up the Hermès line and bring it into more modern territory.

    From Chandler Burr's review:

    Which is why four new masculines— Dior Homme | Dior, Terre d'Hermès | Hermès, Cannabis Santal | Fresh, and Black XS | Paco Rabanne— are so surprising. They aren't good. They're stellar. These are innovatively engineered, beautifully built, ingenious scents, and, mated with one of the great overlooked masculines, M7 Fresh | Yves Saint Laurent, these things constitute the cutting edge.
    http://www.chandlerburr.com/newsite/...meprevious.php

    From the Now Smell This review:

    while it smells nothing like Eau des Merveilles, they share a similar kind of feeling: an airy outdoorsiness, the smell of warm skin, and a kind of clean finish that happily doesn't evoke laundry soap [or dish detergent]...

    It is beautifully done. The primary reason that I am such a huge fan of Jean Claude Ellena is that he always knows when to leave well enough alone.
    http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/b...2/1788968.html

    According to Escentual, the fragrance is meant to be the masculine counterpart to Hermès Eau des Merveilles: "This is for the man who has his feet firmly on the ground, but his head is in the stars."

    It is not unexpected that this would not be for a man who does not have his feet on the ground or his imagination in the stars but seeks to drag everything he does not understand down instead to some mid-level morass.
    Hey! What's wrong with not liking a scent?
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  45. #45

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    [quote author=sanddrift link=1142730394/30#41 date=1142918397]
    Kudos to the people who can defend the scent from what they smell. *And I guess I should give a hand to those who can make such gloriously insane defenses from such bizarre leaps of logic as "the ad told me it's good." *You're the sort of customer every luxury goods company dreams of.
    Hey Serp ... I'm sure you're aware of it, but that's what it's all about ... marketing. Obviously though, if it's a crappy fragrance, all the marketing in the world isn't going to help a stinker. That is except for the few that will order it blind ( like many of us have ) ... then wind up "ebaying" it. Again, I haven't sampled Terre yet but all this controversy makes me want to try it even more.

    I have a lot of marketing experience in what I do ... although not to the extent of the big fragrance houses or designers. But I have noticed a change over the past 30+ years in the business. It used to be a good marketing campaign would automatically sell TONS of product ... regardless of quality or integrity. But over the years, with so much competition in today's market ... AND the advent of the Internet ... people are much more savvy about their buying habits and falling into the "marketing trap". Today, selling a product is much more challenging. You not only need a good ad campaign, but a truly GOOD product.

    So hey, if Hemes can lead people to their product with boring reviews and stereotypical ads ... even some of the more experienced noses on this board, I say hats off to them. They've won half the battle. But the more challenging half will be the actual "surrender of the plastic" ( or cash ).

    And in the end, that's all marketing and business is about ... cash.

  46. #46
    Ladylonestar
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by sanddrift
    It's a beautiful, elegant, refreshing fragrance and sufficiently dictinct from its outdoorsy cousins. *Elena has a good way farther to go to balance and freshen up the Hermès line and bring it into more modern territory.

    From Chandler Burr's review:

    Which is why four new masculines— Dior Homme | Dior, Terre d'Hermès | Hermès, Cannabis Santal | Fresh, and Black XS | Paco Rabanne— are so surprising. They aren't good. They're stellar. These are innovatively engineered, beautifully built, ingenious scents, and, mated with one of the great overlooked masculines, M7 Fresh | Yves Saint Laurent, these things constitute the cutting edge.
    http://www.chandlerburr.com/newsite/...meprevious.php

    From the Now Smell This review:

    while it smells nothing like Eau des Merveilles, they share a similar kind of feeling: an airy outdoorsiness, the smell of warm skin, and a kind of clean finish that happily doesn't evoke laundry soap [or dish detergent]...

    It is beautifully done. The primary reason that I am such a huge fan of Jean Claude Ellena is that he always knows when to leave well enough alone.
    http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/b...2/1788968.html

    According to Escentual, the fragrance is meant to be the masculine counterpart to Hermès Eau des Merveilles: "This is for the man who has his feet firmly on the ground, but his head is in the stars."

    It is not unexpected that this would not be for a man who does not have his feet on the ground or his imagination in the stars but seeks to drag everything he does not understand down instead to some mid-level morass.
    Good heavens. I don't believe I've ever seen a post take up so much space and yet contribute so little to the topic at hand. "It is not unexpected that this would not be for a man who does not have his feet on the ground or his imagination in the stars but seeks to drag everything he does not understand down instead to some mid-level morass." Are you talking about Serpent? This puts me in mind of a time on another fragrance board where I said that Miss Balmain was a wolf in sheep's clothing and another member said, "I wouldn't expect someone from Texas to appreciate a fragrance like Miss Balmain." Why not discuss, defend, debate the fragrance itself using your own experience with it? If 40 million people jump off a cliff, does it make it "right"? Not in my book. It just means that 40 million people jumped off a cliff. Should I follow? Maybe, but I think I'll talk to the person who didn't jump off the cliff first.

    So far Serpent has been able to defend his opinion of Terre d'Hermes as well as the House of Hermes, yet it seems that a few members who cannot argue their case for the fragrance itself have resorted to attacking Serpent personally. No member of Basenotes should have to spend their time defending themselves against snide, rude, cruel comments for any reason let alone simply because they don't like a fragrance. If anyone can do it, Serpent surely can. But why should he, or anyone, have to?

  47. #47

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    *Bullsh*t. *Bull. *Sh*t. *Bullsh*t. *This really should be called Un Jardin sur le Bullsh*t. *

    It is an impeccable review, even more impeccable than these from the same reviewer:

    Cacharel pour l'Homme is nutmeg a-go-go.
    *It's been done before. *But it's a heavily woody scent that lasts on me, and it has this musty note - like a little tinge of the recirculated air from Messe de Minuit - that gives it this far out retro vibe. *Less a souk in Morocco than a shag-carpeted split-level ranch house in the Inland Empire - somehow, that amuses me.






  48. #48
    Serpent
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by sanddrift
    [quote author=Serpent link=1142730394/0#0 date=1142730393] *Bullsh*t. *Bull. *Sh*t. *Bullsh*t. *This really should be called Un Jardin sur le Bullsh*t. *

    It is an impeccable review, even more impeccable than these from the same reviewer:

    Cacharel pour l'Homme is nutmeg a-go-go.
    *It's been done before. *But it's a heavily woody scent that lasts on me, and it has this musty note - like a little tinge of the recirculated air from Messe de Minuit - that gives it this far out retro vibe. *Less a souk in Morocco than a shag-carpeted split-level ranch house in the Inland Empire - somehow, that amuses me.
    [/quote]

    How clever, picking two tiny phrases and a small passage from the hundreds of thousands of words I've posted on these boards. *You're quite the little character assassin. *Well, at least I can write my own reviews, instead of having to have the advertisers write them for me. *Moreover, at least I actually smell the scents before I write mine, too - I'd bet my last dollar you haven't been within a hundred miles of a bottle of Terre d'Hermès - instead of just going into threads to instigate members I dislike. *Now why don't you send CecchaSF, baiesbaby, Lizzie, and some of your other personalities in to help beat me up, Sanddrift?

  49. #49

    Default Terre - Manifique

    This is just a hypnotic assortment of fruit (grapefruit), wood, wet soil after the rain, grass, pepper and something ... which smells like metal...but only an hour after you have applied it. I got a sample last night and could not wait for the Hermes boutique to open this morning so I could get the largest bottle. Wish this was an ocean I could swim into... If you liked Un Jardin sur le Nil, you will like this one even more, as with the time since the last release, they took the time to perfect the essence and make it so much more substantial and mature. Wearing the Terre feels like being in a company of a very good friend, rather than being wrapped in a blanket (Dior Homme), or lost in a cloud (Daim Blond). Love this stuff, am so happy it came out. Not to forget, quite good lasting power.

  50. #50

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    Now why don't you send CecchaSF, baiesbaby, Lizzie, and some of your other personalities in to help beat me up, Sanddrift?
    Oh dear God, don't encourage her!

  51. #51

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by musclegod007
    DEATH OF A GREAT FRAGRANCE HOUSE??!!! *OHH THE DRAMA OF IT ALL! LOL
    I happen to love Terre , I also own un jardin, and don't get what you are talking about......
    I love it also and had to purchase it immediately after my sample arrived! I do understand serpent's relation to the sur le nil as TDH has a fruit note in the top notes. However, have some patience and this quickly fades leaveing that delicious peppery/inscense notes mixed with woods, perhaps some amber. I find it rather appealing and will enjoy this gem. I am wishing that it arrives today in the mail!

  52. #52
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    It feels SO good to write about things you don't like. It's hard to get energy when writing out of admiration. It's such a passive contemplative mood.

    "Woe to him who seeks to please rather than to appall."
    “Perfume is decidedly not about two things: it isn’t about memory and it isn’t about sex. Perfume is about beauty and intellect,”.........“A perfume is a message in a bottle—not a smell—and the message is written by the perfumer and read by the person who smells it.”

  53. #53

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou




    Well, I finally got around to trying this one. I like it. The top notes are a trifle sweet but it gets better after 30 minutes, and lingers on the skin nicely. I think what makes it different is the lack of any animal notes..which is unusual for a romantic scent like this. The mineral quality has been much discussed and is something of an undercurrent in ellena's work. The soft lingering pepper and flint tip the balance to the masculine side. definitely worth a try!

    AZTEC

  54. #54
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    I love Terre d'Hermes and so does everyone I associate with - Many thanks to Buffalo Gal for the sample. Infinitely pleasant and never lacking for quality, it's the kind that makes me happy. I ordered a bottle with very little persuasion.
    “Perfume is decidedly not about two things: it isn’t about memory and it isn’t about sex. Perfume is about beauty and intellect,”.........“A perfume is a message in a bottle—not a smell—and the message is written by the perfumer and read by the person who smells it.”

  55. #55

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    " I'm fairly notorious by now."

    Well, the thread starter accomplished his goal on this fragrance, which seems to have been not so much to review this wonderful perfume but self-promotion instead.

    This fragrance was NEVER "controversial." If you read the posts, in every thread, concerning Terre d'Hermes, you will find that the overwhelming number of reviews are either "good" to "really good."

    Now you are seeing that even people who did not like this fragrance initially are changing their opinions. That's hardly surprising given the complexity and artistry of this scent. Kudos to those who expressed how much they liked this scent at the beginning instead of falling in lockstep with the original poster's dire opinion.

    I have a bottle of this and love it. I ALSO love Equipage and Roccobar. Time marches on and fragrance has to stay current, if not ahead of the curve. To crank out another 80s fragrance would have been the real problem.

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