I figured as much from the absence of comments about it. Glad to hear from you again, Serpent.
So I finally got my hands on Terre d'Hermès. Well, not a sample, because they claimed to be completely and entirely out, even though they've only had the scent for a microsecond. Uh huh. Yeah. But I put it on my skin. And all those rapturous claims that this was something truly special? Bullsh*t. Bull. Sh*t. Bullsh*t. This really should be called Un Jardin sur le Bullsh*t. That's right: It's another of the Jardins. The same lemon dishwashing detergent, just a different name and bottle.
The nerve of Hermès! To sell the almost the exact same fragrance, three times over! At least Un Jardin en Méditerranée had the fig note, and Un Jardin sur le Nil had the acerbic green papaya and incense. Terre d'Hermès is the plainest, most boring yet. Seriously, does Jean-Claude Ellena have no ideas, or is he just mad and like foisting the same bad fragrance on customers over and over? It's citrus over bland, well, nothing. (Ellena crows about how there are so few ingredients in Terre d'Hermès; when the result is so poor, that may not be something to be proud of.) The citrus reminds me faintly of the citrus aldehydes of Comme des Garçons 2, the way they have a sort of metallic ring, but they're not nearly so bright or shiny (or "clever". For a scent named for earth, this is full of Ellena's fake water. The bottom is the same vague dry woodiness of Un Jardin en Méditerranée, maybe a bit more bitter. But it's all so tired. After two Jardins, both so similar to each other, did we need a third? (I didn't even need the first.) Well, it doesn't matter asking, because we got it. Terre d'Hermès is a lazy, uninspired scent, and shame on the house of Équipage, Bel Ami, Calèche, and Doblis for releasing this mess. (Were it coming from an American designer, this scent would be pilloried on fragrance boards, which it should be.)
If anyone questions the genius of the multi-faceted Eau des Merveilles, compare that wonderfully complex, shape-shifting fragrance against the new, flat, dull Terre d'Hermès. Eau des Merveilles, the last scent created before Hermès' great folly of hitching itself full-time to Ellena, outshines Terre d'Hermes in every way. I can't imagine there aren't people in the Hermès organization who aren't secretly dissatisfied with this creation, who see Ellena for what he is: their fragrance albatross. If Hermès has any sense, they'll release Ellena from his contract tout de suite.
And if you're wondering what Ellena's first mainline women's launch for Hermès will smell like, let me spare you the suspense: It will smell almost exactly like Terre d'Hermès, which smelled almost exactly like Un Jardin sur le Nil, which smelled almost exactly like Un Jardin en Méditerranée.
R.I.P. Hermès. You once were great.
I figured as much from the absence of comments about it. Glad to hear from you again, Serpent.
thanks for your review, saved me $65 (that's what they ask for a 50ml bottle here).
I've been circling a bottle of TdH on the counter here in Moscow for a couple of weeks, sniffing it from time to time and thinking of purchasing it.
From one point of view ..err smell it had "something" mineral of interest, from another - I really couldn't find anything about it that touched me. I expected a somewhat earthy scent - it's not the case. It's light and watery character drove me to conclusion I'm just too tough to appreciate such subtle ... khm, "nose pleasures".
"One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)
I do love Hiris and Orange Vert from this house. I am actually craving these for the summer.
I am not too impressed with the Un Jardins. Both have nothing to do with earth, so why calling the one one earth?
DEATH OF A GREAT FRAGRANCE HOUSE??!!! OHH THE DRAMA OF IT ALL! LOL
I happen to love Terre , I also own un jardin, and don't get what you are talking about......
I'll have to agree with the OP. The Terre fragrance is uninspired and completely forgettable. I was at the Hermes Boutique on Rodeo Drive yesterday . I did like Poive Samarande and it left a very unique and pleasant note on my skin. I think that will be my next Hermes fragrance.
"A great perfume is a work of art, it can lift our days, haunt our nights and create the milestones of our memories. Fragrance is liquid emotion. And that never goes out of fashion. " MICHAEL EDWARDS
What a fabulous roundup of all that is incorrect and insipid about the Garden Twins and their newly budded offspring! Even in pre-release hype, I had no interest in Terre, all this due to an adventure, undertaken at the behest of a friend, to acquire a sample of Sur le Nil the day it was stocked. So locker-room cologne-ish was this to me (Jade East or Hai Karate or something liberally slapped about after a round of handball and a quick shower) that I was angry with it for making me drive for 120 miles of scented annoyance (well, the return trip anyway). The box trumped the scent, easily. The font trumped the scent. But then again, is he not the creator of the lye that is TDC Osmanthus? Why am I the only person who disliked that?
Thank you for stripping bare the laundry, revealing it for the sullied pile it is.
it hadn't crossed my mind that the lack of significant reviews could be because of how poorly Terre is being received. especially considering how much excitement the launch seemed to be creating here on basenotes.Originally Posted by foetidus
i am a huge fan of Eau de Merveilles, and although not an Ellena creation, i was very intrigued and excited to read that Terre was being touted as the men's counterpart.
Terre smelled barbershop/hair tonic to my nose. a friend of mine thought it smelled very "hetero". anyhow... i don't think that would keep it from becoming a huge seller! i probably wouldn't mind it on someone else, but it's def not for me.
Exactly. No one said that EVERYONE should love this fragrance! I happen to like it.Originally Posted by musclegod007
I really like the Jardins. Whilst most of the time I go for something with a big more kick, the subtlety and lightness (and this does not equate with fleeting and undefinable, at least imo) are two things I like in summer. Either you like Ellena's transparency and minimalist aesthetic, or you don't I guess.
Funnily enough I was testing sure le Nil and en Mediterranee side by side yesterday. They're clearly cousins, but have a very different nasal impact.
calm down Serpent, drop some diazepam, and spray on some rocabar.
Having to wait so long since Rocabar for the new men's scent, I'm surprised that it doesn't have the weight that the men's scents traditionally have. Guess it's a new type of guy they want to entice, even if it smells all too familiar.
I don't think Parfums d'Hermes is necessarily dead yet, though.
Hi Serpent, I didn't try TdH yet, but I'm disappointed with Elena too after trying FM Bigarade Concentre. I expected something new or different. After heavy and fresh citrusy opening notes (which I liked) disappeared, I smelled a relative of Declaration. The biggest difference between those two is just a price. Such a disappointment...
What a crock of shit! Attempting to taint the general opinion negatively before the people can experience the thing at issue is so lame. "Death... "! heh.. Get a life.
THAT'S RIGHT! *I'm secretly an agent of Chanel, and my post has many hidden subconscious messages to make you all go buy bottles of Allure instead of purchasing this wonderful new Hermès with its amazing new freshly-washed dishes accord!Originally Posted by Killer Vavoom
So what, I'm supposed to wait until everyone has smelled it until I post my opinion? *Or is that only what people who dislike something have to do? *And how shall we monitor this? *A poll perhaps? *By that measure, the people who didn't care for B*Men would get to have their opinions vetted just about now, I'd say.
Why don't you follow some of your own advice and get a life of your own, because your logic is non-existent? *I'm just voicing my views, just like you're voicing yours, as cracked as they may be...
THAT'S RIGHT! I'm secretly an agent of Chanel, and my post has many hidden subconscious messages to make you all go buy bottles of Allure instead of purchasing this wonderful new Hermès with its amazing new freshly-washed dishes accord!Originally Posted by Serpent
So what, I'm supposed to wait until everyone has smelled it until I post my opinion? Or is that only what people who dislike something have to do? And how shall we monitor this? A poll perhaps? By that measure, the people who didn't care for B*Men would get to have their opinions vetted just about now, I'd say.
Why don't you follow some of your own advice and get a life of your own, because your logic is non-existent? I'm just voicing my views, just like you're voicing yours, as cracked as they may be...[/quote]
I suppose that the difference between a normal opinion and your rant is distinction. You obviously dislike the citrussy Jardin-range, but what on earth made you have to strike out so fiercely over the fact that Hermes is releasing yet another 'lemon dishwashing detergent'? How dare they, fire this pathetic Ellena!
You may not have any commercial benefit of taking down Hermes, but it can't be that hard to just keep your voice down to a 'I don't like it', instead of creating this unnecessary atmosphere. Even if you hate it so badly.
Wow, you really just don't get it, do you? *Did you miss the whole point of my post? *I'll write what I want. *Hermès has married themselves to a perfumer dead-set on cranking out the same shoddy, simplistic fragrance over and over and over. *Unless you want to pay almost $200 for a bottle of Hermessence, good luck on getting something good from them now. *Yeah, Hermès has officially gone down the drain as far as I'm concerned. *I just posted it AGAIN!Originally Posted by BrothaG
So when the opinion goes against yours, I need to "keep [my] voice down"? *That's not how it works, teacher. *This is an open forum. *My post didn't violate any of the rules. *If you don't like the "unnecessary atmosphere" of my threads, don't click on them. *I'm fairly notorious by now, so you should just know to avoid me. *Easy as that. *Sorry if I hurt your feelings by insulting your perfume, but hey, suck it up. *If you love Terre d'Hermès, great. *Go buy eight bottles. *Spend your $720. *Be happy. *Me, I think it sucks. *I've been a huge Hermès fan, and I'm more insulted by their terrible new releases than anything anyone can say about a fragrance.
I say keep up the good work. I find people with strong opinions refreshing! Believe me, there is no confusion on where you stand.
Come on guys, he spent a lot of money on a fragrance and feels totally ripped off. I think he deserves to gripe. I am strong enough not to be swayed and will probably test this when I get back to the States later in the year. However, I have seen an alarming trend with the new Elena's over the past few years. Yes, I have to admit I was a sucker and bought a full bottle of Malle's Bigarade Concentree' blind (so short lived that it's just cheaper to wear the bottle around your neck and smell it every now and then) and have seen a trend up through Declaration and the Jardins. I do think Elena is an artist but when it comes to my money...I think I will buy something with more silage and that lasts longer than an hour (or in the case of Bigarade Concentree', about 20 minutes).
Oh, no, no, no! *I didn't buy it. *But, as samples were unavailable (or the sales associates were just being tight-fisted with the plebs not carrying Birkins that morning), I doused myself in the stuff. *Damn, I felt like I had dishpan body all day long! Moreover, Hermès is a house very dear to my heart, the house that makes three of the two of the four scents I love most, Équipage and Eau d'Hermès. (I'm also wild about Eau des Merveilles, I insist on wearing Rocabar when it rains, and I've given Bel Ami as a gift several times, and it always became that guy's signature scent.) Hermès is my house, so to see it slide like this wounds me.
I agree with you, paintrman - Where is the genius who made First? *Bring back that Ellena! *He has these obsessions, it seems, like he's the hermit perfumer who wants to just make the same scent over and over, changing just... *one... * note... *Ugh! *He's dangerously close to becoming the Philip Glass of perfumery, with his five-note scents that sort of drone atonally on to nowhere. *Someone at Hermès has to see this as the emperor's new clothes. *I can't imagine sales for this will be through the roof - I really can't - and Hermès is putting some money (for them) behind promotion on this, too. *They seem to want a hit.
I totally support your right to write what you feel as long as it does not violate the rules of the forum -- your post did no such thing!
Whatever happened to free speech!
"I hold it that a little rebellion now and then is a good thing, and as necessary in the political world as storms in the physical...It is a medicine necessary for the sound health of government." - Thomas Jefferson
I love that "unnecessary atmosphere" *;D. Even more so, I love the substance in your posts.Originally Posted by Serpent
No. Please don´t!...I need to "keep [my] voice down"?
As for Hermes...I am far from familiar with the whole range. I love and adore Hiris! And, yes I am very fond of Jardin sur le Nil. (the mango-floral-incense body really charmed me, and I am generally quite bored with citrus). I have not tried Rouge and Caleche yet..they are on my mini-to-get list.
Ellena..well I´ll forgive him for anything since the moment I smelled Bois D´Iris!
I love that "unnecessary atmosphere" ;D. Even more so, I love the substance in your posts.Originally Posted by Vinterdroppe
No. Please don´t![/quote]...I need to "keep [my] voice down"?
Hear hear! I really enjoyed Serpent's post. Stimulating, interesting and colorful. Exactly the sort of thing that makes Basenotes so much fun. Keep on posting, Serpent!
I also love Hiris... and I mourn we won't see the likes of it again as it was an Olivia Giacobetti scent. Hermès' fragrance overseers seem to feel their line lacked cohesion, but all their scents had a common thread of elegance and sobriety, no matter who their nose was. Meanwhile at Chanel, even while Jacques Polge was their steady hand, the scents have been spinning wildly away from the house aesthetic - just smell the grotesqueries coming out of that company lately. A house nose is not necessarily a good idea.Originally Posted by Vinterdroppe
Even if one loves the Jardins, does one need it three times over? I love Kingdom, but I don't need to have three ever-so-slightly different versions. One is good, then give me something completely unique.And, yes I am very fond of Jardin sur le Nil. (the mango-floral-incense body really charmed me, and I am generally quite bored with citrus).
These scents are rich, lush, unbelievably elegant - completely the opposite of what Ellena's producing, practically photo negatives of his current output (as is his first major creation, Van Cleef & Arpels' First).I have not tried Rouge and Caleche yet..they are on my mini-to-get list.
But this feeds another major beef I have with Ellena's current scents: To get anything worthwhile from him, one must pay through the nose. He only wants to put any effort into his creations, it seems, if the retail's going to be superexpensive. Only his scents for The Different Company and the Hermessences have much elaboration, and even then, not as much as your average Versace. His Malles, while pleasant, are the slightest and most spare of the line and have the poorest longevity. Not only does he strike me as lazy, but he also seems hyperélitist. In that respect, Ellena's beginning to make Olivier Creed look like a red-shirted Marxist...Ellena..well I´ll forgive him for anything since the moment I smelled Bois D´Iris!
I love strong opinions - the world needs more of them, IMO...and less diplomatic tolerance of mediocrity as well. I enjoy reading posts like this as it reminds me that this is a board built around a shared passion, and for a passion to have any substance or meaning, it must be built upon strong feelings and the right to express them.
I was really hoping this fragrance was going to be a good summertime scent. And it's not that I hated Un Jardin en Méditerranée or Un Jardin sur le Nil, I just thought they were WAY too feminine for my taste. They both seem SO much better suited for a woman.
Regardless, I'll still sample it when I get the chance ... though I'm not getting my hopes up. Hermes still has a good place in my wardrobe ... with D'Orange Verte Concentre being in my top 5 day/casual scents, and Bel Ami being in my top 5 night/formal scents.
This line was just excellent!Originally Posted by Serpent
Still haven't tried Terre d'Hermès and I still really really want too. Loved the original post as well btw.
Serpent, I haven't tried Terre, but going from the Jardin releases, I'd bet you've accurately summed it up. Hermes needs some new life in their men's line - I was thinking, they need something daring, a new leather, something with a warm spice, maybe a merchant loup-like nut accord, and rich resinous woods :
I still have to sample this and I wouldn't mind if this scent was indeed not daring or whatever.Sometimes a boring scent is ok with me. (not every scent has to contain food, leather, or nasty whalevomit to be interesting for me),but I agree with Serpent , after the two Jardins and the two citrus Frederick Malles , a bit more "balls" would have been great. I still had hoped for something like Declaration,with the smoky, earthy notes. But again, i still have to sample this.
A new leather would be fantastic. Men haven't had a really sensational leather scent in a long time. Had Hermès released Cuiron instead of Helmut Lang, it would have been an instant classic, I suspect; after all, Hermès is renowned for their leather goods. A lighter, fresh chypre would be awesome, too, like Rocabar but not so heavy, or Coriolan but not so stiff. Or - and I'm just thinking out loud here - maybe they need a new perfumer?Originally Posted by Ric
This is the first mainline, gendered (i.e., non-unisex) release since Ellena took the reigns. While there is certainly more character to the Hermessence line, the scents all still have that same sketchy quality, with three of the five - Vétiver Tonka, Rose Ikebana, and Osmanthe Yunnan - having Ellena's overfetishized wateriness to some degree (small in the vetiver scent) or another (huge in the two florals). Apparently a women's mainline scent is next up, and I imagine it will be like Un Jardin en Méditerranée with a hit of jasmine to it. Water with some flowers. The next Hermès.
But what's sad is, Hermès' scents once had weight. It's all missing now. They wanted a signature house style, but all their new stuff clashes so badly with their classics. In trying to create a unity, they've instead bred terrible disharmony in their library. Both Olivia Giacobetti's Hiris and Ralf Schweiger's (with Nathalie Feisthauer) Eau des Merveilles are modern scents that work with the Hermès style - past and present - much better than Ellena's. Either would have been a better selection as their house perfumer than would have Ellena, I think.
Hermès' men's scents used to have this aura of effortless luxury - it all seemed just so natural. Now, they're just trying too hard. And failing. The beauty of Hermès is, one doesn't go to them for something new and daring. One turns to them for timeless elegance. Now, we're getting trendy slapdash niche scents with poor quality and high price tags. It's as if Chanel started peddling Keiko Mecheri scents, which, with the hiring of Christopher Seldrake... yikes.
I'm scared. I'm very scared.
I have never tried the two Jardins so i could not compare the Terre with them. *I went to the boutique without knowing much about the line, and i was never a big fan of Ellena, i was disappointed in Declaration and Bigarade. *But Terre was a pleasant surprise. *I wasn't moved with the top notes at all, that strong burst of grapefruit actually turned me off, and Serpent is right, it did remind me of dish washing detergent. *Then it evolved into something that was totally amazing, the grapefruit has calmed but still apparent, the spciness of pepper rushed out of the gate in desparation, but the rush remained a mere half an hour. *At this point it really revealed its true character, i could smell the wood, the warmth of rocks, and there was something floral about it, it was as if the dessert had grown flowers out of a miracle, and the wind blew by carrying the dust and the smell of lillies, at that stage the grapefruit still lingered vividly in the background, giving the overall dryness some life. *Eventually the fragrance became softer, dryer and a skin-like warmth and sweetness that i have never experienced. *The magic of this fragrance lies in its evolution, it has a simple composition, yet it seems like a thousand elements are evolving at once and trying to dominate one another, the end result is supernova. *I've really come to appreciate this piece of art, it has done well on my skin, something in it reminds me of Passage d'Enfer, except this time we are well above ground.
Current top 5:
1. Sospiro Vivace
2. Rasasi Daarej
3. Rasasi Tobacco Blaze
4. Brioni EDT
5. FM French Lover
Well, Serpent, I read your thread as it was my first time in Basenotes!
I`m with you - and have some propositions...
1) Well, Hermes was all about elegance and sobriety. Yes, it is right now.
How it comes? You should just take into consideration that perfume world has changed - all those light, watery, non-offensive, nothing-to-say-about, fresh, cool fragrances flood it all over!!!!
And the fact classicist and elitist House of Hermes put their hand on this theme is - The very good sign!!!!
For me it means that watery airy scents are going to Letha! Watery-floral are going to past, to let us have The Brighter Stronger (Leathery) Future!
At least I hope so...
2) I`m not the fan of Jean-Claude Ellena - but I LOVE three of his non-Hermes creations. Namely Bois d`Iris TDC, Angeliques sur la Pluie and Eau d`Hiver by Editions de Parfums FM. I think it`s enough to respect him as talented perfumer.
You know - it`s like in painting. When you are not very interested by Nikolai Ge (his pictures in Russian textbooks were horrible for schoolboys!) but only one his picture of Crucifixion in Musee d`Orsay gives you powerful Insight!
So I`m not with you - to fire JC Ellena from Hermes.
3) One thought about tendence revealed by Hermes and some other Mainstream Houses (Armani, Kenzo, Dior Homme, Prada, Guerlain).
As we all know - they make a line of lux fragrances to sell worldwide in 1000s of doors - and 1 serie of elite-lux fragrances to sell in headquarter stores and boutiques - for super-extra-money.
Yes, the quality is very different.
Usual lux has mainstream character of fashionable perfumes - and elitist has something near niche quality (not always, but still).
And now is the belief.
I believe that those Houses DEFINITELY AND WITH PURPOSE trying to broaden the gap between Lux and Elite-Lux.
My opinion is all those Big Houses has lost their respectable image when sell their perfumes in malls and supermarkets (amongst spagetti, t-shirts, butter, bread, boots and detergents). They has lost their LUX quality in a race for bigger distribution and for big bucks.
Now they are trying to fly high again.
And making usual range a bit more boring by TDH and Jardins boredom - Hermes also makes Hermessences shining brighter!
I`m very serious, but my English still not native, sorry for that. Hope you get my points.
Vetiver The Great!!!