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  1. #31

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Oh, and I forget one more thing to help JC Ellena being the in-house perfumer instead of Serpent furious comments! ;D

    It is very common thing in any House.
    PERFUME BRIEF.

    No perfumer makes perfumes from the blank sheet of paper. They get the brief from brand-managers, where all the qualities of future perfumes described.
    So - bad perfumes comes from bad briefs...
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  2. #32

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Ric
    Serpent, I haven't tried Terre, but going from the Jardin releases, I'd bet you've accurately summed it up. Hermes needs some new life in their men's line - I was thinking, they need something daring, a new leather, something with a warm spice, maybe a merchant loup-like nut accord, and rich resinous woods :
    If you think about it, it really is a breath of new life to the bold stuffy and stodgy visage of Hermes for men. They've definitely changed the target demographic to the twenty-something to early thirty-something crowd rather than the middle aged magnate. Their prices have kept the same though, just to keep the exclusivity beyond the affordable. I don't know what the rant is about picking up an Hermessance when someone is gladly willing to pick up a Creed for the same price. After all, Hermes was the saddler for royalty, and anything they make seemed to be out of reach for me, I never thought ANY towel was worth $200. But what can you do, their line wasn't intended for the average bloke. Be happy that a post retail bottle of thier older scents can be found on eBay for cheap. I've decided that I can wait a year so I can find a bottle at a discount website rather than spend $85.

    On the other hand, I too was wanting something bold, elegant, and different, but hey, I guess the person that wants to spend $5000+ on a bag wants to be doused with vegetable juice fortified with minerals!
    *********************



    Close your eyes, so you can see what you're smelling.

    "Press trigger twice to release the strength of wood...the wantonness of vanilla...the sentiment of floral...the passion of spice!"


    ~My reviews~

    ~My Wardrobe~



    I WANT MORE CHYPRE!

  3. #33

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    The thing is that both Jardins were very successfull. The even more successfull (and somewhat bolder) Eau des Merveilles (Edit: Yes, Serpent I know it's not from Jean Claude Ellena!) is imho also an "eau fraiche" type of fragrance.
    The perfume division of Hermès has long been a bit of a "Sleeping Beauty". With the words of CHANDLER BURR: "Jean-Louis Dumas Hermès, the chairman of the company wanted to fix a delicate problem: Hermès had an elegant perfume collection that included classic scents like Calèche and 24, Faubourg, yet they sold only modestly. Chanel, one of Hermès’s chief rivals, made ten times as much money on perfume."
    Now that Hermès found a niche in the perfume offer for people who like fresh and discreet fragrances, sales have been rising. So unless they have a flop, they are not going to change strategies for a while.




  4. #34

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by cedriceccentric
    The thing is that both Jardins were very successfull. The even more successfull (and somewhat bolder) Eau des Merveilles is imho also an "eau fraiche" type of fragrance.
    The perfume division of Hermès has long been a bit of a "Sleeping Beauty". With the words of CHANDLER BURR: "Jean-Louis Dumas Hermès, the chairman of the company wanted to fix a delicate problem: Hermès had an elegant perfume collection that included classic scents like Calèche and 24, Faubourg, yet they sold only modestly. Chanel, one of Hermès’s chief rivals, made ten times as much money on perfume."
    Now that Hermès found a niche in the perfume offer for people who like fresh and discreet fragrances, sales have been rising. So unless they have a flop, they are not going to change strategies for a while.


    Ditto! I wouldn't have found better words, Cedric!
    I only like to add that they had already bolder scents in their shelves like Bel Ami, Rocabar, Rue du Fabourg 24, and Rouge, So they needed a bit to complete the line with something fresher...

  5. #35
    Serpent
    Guest

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by cedriceccentric
    The thing is that both Jardins were very successfull. The even more successfull (and somewhat bolder) Eau des Merveilles is imho also an "eau fraiche" type of fragrance.
    The perfume division of Hermès has long been a bit of a "Sleeping Beauty". With the words of CHANDLER BURR: "Jean-Louis Dumas Hermès, the chairman of the company wanted to fix a delicate problem: Hermès had an elegant perfume collection that included classic scents like Calèche and 24, Faubourg, yet they sold only modestly. Chanel, one of Hermès’s chief rivals, made ten times as much money on perfume."
    Now that Hermès found a niche in the perfume offer for people who like fresh and discreet fragrances, sales have been rising. So unless they have a flop, they are not going to change strategies for a while.
    Eau des Merveilles should not be categorized with Ellena's output because - besides being far, far superior to his Jardins and Terre d'Hermès - it's not one of his creations. *What Hermès has done with Ellena is yes, drawn some attention to their scents with some fresh output, but what one should consider is, are these scents lasting fragrances? *Does one see Terre d'Hermès being a scent that sells well twenty years from now as Équipage and Bel Ami do? *I doubt it. *I see it lingering around in the back, a relic like Amazone, very much of-its-day. *This is not a scent of the ages. *It's not Hermès doing what it does best - being timeless - but trying to chase trends. *The house has been accused of doing the same with their bags in this year's collections, much to the chagrin of the fashion press. *It seems that Hermès, for all their talk of being above houses like Louis Vuitton and such, is ripping off pages from their marketing books, but they're not doing it very well.

    Hermès may have a temporary bump in sales, but they're not building a legacy. *In trying to be like Chanel, they've become something more like Ralph Lauren. *What's next? *Terre d'Hermès Sport?

  6. #36
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    What's next? *Terre d'Hermès Sport?
    LOL! *

    Maybe they should have made the Terre as an exclusive release, so they could worry about it less in the long run.
    Current top 5:
    1. MDCI Chypre Palatin
    2. Guerlain Arsene Lupin (Dandy)

    3. Roja Dove Enigma Parfum Pour Homme
    4. Roja Dove Vetiver Extrait
    5. Guerlain Heritage (any formulation)

    Decants for swap: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/403...mples-for-Swap

  7. #37
    Serpent
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    By the way, this whole rant could apply to Chanel, too. *Their last two women's releases - Allure Sensuelle and Chance Eau de Parfum - might have given me Type 2 Diabetes, the sugar shock from the tutti-frutti awfulness was so great. *And Allure Homme Sport? *How did a Tommy Hilfiger scent end up on the Chanel counter, anyway? *How the mighty have fallen. *As I've said about eight times in this thread: *A house nose isn't necessarily a good thing, and Chanel seems to realize this since they're bringing in help. *They're unraveling at chez Coco. *But, for some reason, this is the model Hermès has chosen...

  8. #38

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    I think it's a beautiful fragrance. Just because there aren't a multitude of ingredients doesn't mean it can't smell beautiful. The simplicity of the grapefruit topnotes and the earthy quality of the patchouli base really make a wonderful combination, to me anyway. Can't get enough of it. ;D

  9. #39

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Victoria over at Bois de Jasmin has new (positive) review.
    I love her writing.

    http://boisdejasmin.typepad.com/_/20...e_hermes_.html

  10. #40

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    I have not tried this one. I loved Un Jardin en Meditereanee but I hated the sur le nil. The thought of this one does not excite me but if I am ever in a situation to try it, I will. A modern leather scent by Hermes would be much appreciated. As far as chanel, I hate allure.

  11. #41

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    *Does one see Terre d'Hermès being a scent that sells well twenty years from now as Équipage and Bel Ami do? *I doubt it. *I see it lingering around in the back, a relic like Amazone, very much of-its-day. *This is not a scent of the ages. *It's not Hermès doing what it does best - being timeless - but trying to chase trends. *The house has been accused of doing the same with their bags in this year's collections, much to the chagrin of the fashion press. *It seems that Hermès, for all their talk of being above houses like Louis Vuitton and such, is ripping off pages from their marketing books, but they're not doing it very well.

    Hermès may have a temporary bump in sales, but they're not building a legacy. *In trying to be like Chanel, they've become something more like Ralph Lauren. *What's next? *Terre d'Hermès Sport?
    Serpent!
    I like your pathetic and anger!
    Well, I can see TdH that sells 20 years. I do not want it to be. Let`s see, how it will be in sales.
    I`m not so Fast & Furious in my opinions as you are.
    For me - one bad cologne release does not mean that The House is dead.
    No one House can do only bestsellers which will be a favorites of all.

    I`m not agree that Hermes is chasing after world perfumer tendencies.
    Hermes (as Guerlain) does take fashionable ideas to pollinate them by golden timeless pollen.
    Sometimes it does mean that the theme is going to its perfect end, sometimes not.
    They are not trying to innovate and to discover something super-new, but they tend to say the last word and close the perfumer discussion.

    And that`s a good sign. Maybe soon we`ll see perfumer world full of leather scents...
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  12. #42

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    It's a beautiful, elegant, refreshing fragrance and sufficiently dictinct from its outdoorsy cousins. *Elena has a good way farther to go to balance and freshen up the Hermès line and bring it into more modern territory.

    From Chandler Burr's review:

    Which is why four new masculines— Dior Homme | Dior, Terre d'Hermès | Hermès, Cannabis Santal | Fresh, and Black XS | Paco Rabanne— are so surprising. They aren't good. They're stellar. These are innovatively engineered, beautifully built, ingenious scents, and, mated with one of the great overlooked masculines, M7 Fresh | Yves Saint Laurent, these things constitute the cutting edge.
    http://www.chandlerburr.com/newsite/...meprevious.php

    From the Now Smell This review:

    while it smells nothing like Eau des Merveilles, they share a similar kind of feeling: an airy outdoorsiness, the smell of warm skin, and a kind of clean finish that happily doesn't evoke laundry soap [or dish detergent]...

    It is beautifully done. The primary reason that I am such a huge fan of Jean Claude Ellena is that he always knows when to leave well enough alone.
    http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/b...2/1788968.html

    According to Escentual, the fragrance is meant to be the masculine counterpart to Hermès Eau des Merveilles: "This is for the man who has his feet firmly on the ground, but his head is in the stars."

    It is not unexpected that this would not be for a man who does not have his feet on the ground or his imagination in the stars but seeks to drag everything he does not understand down instead to some mid-level morass.


  13. #43
    Serpent
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by sanddrift
    According to Escentual, the fragrance is meant to be the masculine counterpart to Hermès Eau des Merveilles: "This is for the man who has his feet firmly on the ground, but his head is in the stars."

    It is not unexpected that this would not be for a man who does not have his feet on the ground or his imagination in the stars but seeks to drag everything he does not understand down instead to some mid-level morass.
    Oh. *My. *God.

    It's happened. *It's finally happened. *People have bought into it. *Wholesale. *Lemmings off the cliff. *And here's the proof! *Someone is using the company's actual publicity material in defense of a fragrance. *"You're just not the super creative spaceman that Hermès made this scent for, dumba**!" *What next? *If someone dislikes M7, will it be because his chest isn't as hirsute as the hairy naked dude in that ad? *If someone doesn't jive with Égoïste, is it because he's just too damn philanthropic?

    Kudos to the people who can defend the scent from what they smell. *And I guess I should give a hand to those who can make such gloriously insane defenses from such bizarre leaps of logic as "the ad told me it's good." *You're the sort of customer every luxury goods company dreams of.

  14. #44
    DustB's Avatar
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by sanddrift
    It's a beautiful, elegant, refreshing fragrance and sufficiently dictinct from its outdoorsy cousins. *Elena has a good way farther to go to balance and freshen up the Hermès line and bring it into more modern territory.

    From Chandler Burr's review:

    Which is why four new masculines— Dior Homme | Dior, Terre d'Hermès | Hermès, Cannabis Santal | Fresh, and Black XS | Paco Rabanne— are so surprising. They aren't good. They're stellar. These are innovatively engineered, beautifully built, ingenious scents, and, mated with one of the great overlooked masculines, M7 Fresh | Yves Saint Laurent, these things constitute the cutting edge.
    http://www.chandlerburr.com/newsite/...meprevious.php

    From the Now Smell This review:

    while it smells nothing like Eau des Merveilles, they share a similar kind of feeling: an airy outdoorsiness, the smell of warm skin, and a kind of clean finish that happily doesn't evoke laundry soap [or dish detergent]...

    It is beautifully done. The primary reason that I am such a huge fan of Jean Claude Ellena is that he always knows when to leave well enough alone.
    http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/b...2/1788968.html

    According to Escentual, the fragrance is meant to be the masculine counterpart to Hermès Eau des Merveilles: "This is for the man who has his feet firmly on the ground, but his head is in the stars."

    It is not unexpected that this would not be for a man who does not have his feet on the ground or his imagination in the stars but seeks to drag everything he does not understand down instead to some mid-level morass.
    Hey! What's wrong with not liking a scent?
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  15. #45

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    [quote author=sanddrift link=1142730394/30#41 date=1142918397]
    Kudos to the people who can defend the scent from what they smell. *And I guess I should give a hand to those who can make such gloriously insane defenses from such bizarre leaps of logic as "the ad told me it's good." *You're the sort of customer every luxury goods company dreams of.
    Hey Serp ... I'm sure you're aware of it, but that's what it's all about ... marketing. Obviously though, if it's a crappy fragrance, all the marketing in the world isn't going to help a stinker. That is except for the few that will order it blind ( like many of us have ) ... then wind up "ebaying" it. Again, I haven't sampled Terre yet but all this controversy makes me want to try it even more.

    I have a lot of marketing experience in what I do ... although not to the extent of the big fragrance houses or designers. But I have noticed a change over the past 30+ years in the business. It used to be a good marketing campaign would automatically sell TONS of product ... regardless of quality or integrity. But over the years, with so much competition in today's market ... AND the advent of the Internet ... people are much more savvy about their buying habits and falling into the "marketing trap". Today, selling a product is much more challenging. You not only need a good ad campaign, but a truly GOOD product.

    So hey, if Hemes can lead people to their product with boring reviews and stereotypical ads ... even some of the more experienced noses on this board, I say hats off to them. They've won half the battle. But the more challenging half will be the actual "surrender of the plastic" ( or cash ).

    And in the end, that's all marketing and business is about ... cash.

  16. #46
    Ladylonestar
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by sanddrift
    It's a beautiful, elegant, refreshing fragrance and sufficiently dictinct from its outdoorsy cousins. *Elena has a good way farther to go to balance and freshen up the Hermès line and bring it into more modern territory.

    From Chandler Burr's review:

    Which is why four new masculines— Dior Homme | Dior, Terre d'Hermès | Hermès, Cannabis Santal | Fresh, and Black XS | Paco Rabanne— are so surprising. They aren't good. They're stellar. These are innovatively engineered, beautifully built, ingenious scents, and, mated with one of the great overlooked masculines, M7 Fresh | Yves Saint Laurent, these things constitute the cutting edge.
    http://www.chandlerburr.com/newsite/...meprevious.php

    From the Now Smell This review:

    while it smells nothing like Eau des Merveilles, they share a similar kind of feeling: an airy outdoorsiness, the smell of warm skin, and a kind of clean finish that happily doesn't evoke laundry soap [or dish detergent]...

    It is beautifully done. The primary reason that I am such a huge fan of Jean Claude Ellena is that he always knows when to leave well enough alone.
    http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/b...2/1788968.html

    According to Escentual, the fragrance is meant to be the masculine counterpart to Hermès Eau des Merveilles: "This is for the man who has his feet firmly on the ground, but his head is in the stars."

    It is not unexpected that this would not be for a man who does not have his feet on the ground or his imagination in the stars but seeks to drag everything he does not understand down instead to some mid-level morass.
    Good heavens. I don't believe I've ever seen a post take up so much space and yet contribute so little to the topic at hand. "It is not unexpected that this would not be for a man who does not have his feet on the ground or his imagination in the stars but seeks to drag everything he does not understand down instead to some mid-level morass." Are you talking about Serpent? This puts me in mind of a time on another fragrance board where I said that Miss Balmain was a wolf in sheep's clothing and another member said, "I wouldn't expect someone from Texas to appreciate a fragrance like Miss Balmain." Why not discuss, defend, debate the fragrance itself using your own experience with it? If 40 million people jump off a cliff, does it make it "right"? Not in my book. It just means that 40 million people jumped off a cliff. Should I follow? Maybe, but I think I'll talk to the person who didn't jump off the cliff first.

    So far Serpent has been able to defend his opinion of Terre d'Hermes as well as the House of Hermes, yet it seems that a few members who cannot argue their case for the fragrance itself have resorted to attacking Serpent personally. No member of Basenotes should have to spend their time defending themselves against snide, rude, cruel comments for any reason let alone simply because they don't like a fragrance. If anyone can do it, Serpent surely can. But why should he, or anyone, have to?

  17. #47

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    *Bullsh*t. *Bull. *Sh*t. *Bullsh*t. *This really should be called Un Jardin sur le Bullsh*t. *

    It is an impeccable review, even more impeccable than these from the same reviewer:

    Cacharel pour l'Homme is nutmeg a-go-go.
    *It's been done before. *But it's a heavily woody scent that lasts on me, and it has this musty note - like a little tinge of the recirculated air from Messe de Minuit - that gives it this far out retro vibe. *Less a souk in Morocco than a shag-carpeted split-level ranch house in the Inland Empire - somehow, that amuses me.






  18. #48
    Serpent
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by sanddrift
    [quote author=Serpent link=1142730394/0#0 date=1142730393] *Bullsh*t. *Bull. *Sh*t. *Bullsh*t. *This really should be called Un Jardin sur le Bullsh*t. *

    It is an impeccable review, even more impeccable than these from the same reviewer:

    Cacharel pour l'Homme is nutmeg a-go-go.
    *It's been done before. *But it's a heavily woody scent that lasts on me, and it has this musty note - like a little tinge of the recirculated air from Messe de Minuit - that gives it this far out retro vibe. *Less a souk in Morocco than a shag-carpeted split-level ranch house in the Inland Empire - somehow, that amuses me.
    [/quote]

    How clever, picking two tiny phrases and a small passage from the hundreds of thousands of words I've posted on these boards. *You're quite the little character assassin. *Well, at least I can write my own reviews, instead of having to have the advertisers write them for me. *Moreover, at least I actually smell the scents before I write mine, too - I'd bet my last dollar you haven't been within a hundred miles of a bottle of Terre d'Hermès - instead of just going into threads to instigate members I dislike. *Now why don't you send CecchaSF, baiesbaby, Lizzie, and some of your other personalities in to help beat me up, Sanddrift?

  19. #49

    Default Terre - Manifique

    This is just a hypnotic assortment of fruit (grapefruit), wood, wet soil after the rain, grass, pepper and something ... which smells like metal...but only an hour after you have applied it. I got a sample last night and could not wait for the Hermes boutique to open this morning so I could get the largest bottle. Wish this was an ocean I could swim into... If you liked Un Jardin sur le Nil, you will like this one even more, as with the time since the last release, they took the time to perfect the essence and make it so much more substantial and mature. Wearing the Terre feels like being in a company of a very good friend, rather than being wrapped in a blanket (Dior Homme), or lost in a cloud (Daim Blond). Love this stuff, am so happy it came out. Not to forget, quite good lasting power.

  20. #50

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    Now why don't you send CecchaSF, baiesbaby, Lizzie, and some of your other personalities in to help beat me up, Sanddrift?
    Oh dear God, don't encourage her!
    Currently wearing: Gardénia by Chanel

  21. #51

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    Quote Originally Posted by musclegod007
    DEATH OF A GREAT FRAGRANCE HOUSE??!!! *OHH THE DRAMA OF IT ALL! LOL
    I happen to love Terre , I also own un jardin, and don't get what you are talking about......
    I love it also and had to purchase it immediately after my sample arrived! I do understand serpent's relation to the sur le nil as TDH has a fruit note in the top notes. However, have some patience and this quickly fades leaveing that delicious peppery/inscense notes mixed with woods, perhaps some amber. I find it rather appealing and will enjoy this gem. I am wishing that it arrives today in the mail!

  22. #52
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    It feels SO good to write about things you don't like. It's hard to get energy when writing out of admiration. It's such a passive contemplative mood.

    "Woe to him who seeks to please rather than to appall."

  23. #53

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou




    Well, I finally got around to trying this one. I like it. The top notes are a trifle sweet but it gets better after 30 minutes, and lingers on the skin nicely. I think what makes it different is the lack of any animal notes..which is unusual for a romantic scent like this. The mineral quality has been much discussed and is something of an undercurrent in ellena's work. The soft lingering pepper and flint tip the balance to the masculine side. definitely worth a try!

    AZTEC

  24. #54
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    I love Terre d'Hermes and so does everyone I associate with - Many thanks to Buffalo Gal for the sample. Infinitely pleasant and never lacking for quality, it's the kind that makes me happy. I ordered a bottle with very little persuasion.

  25. #55

    Default Re: Terre d'Hermès: Death of a Great Fragrance Hou

    " I'm fairly notorious by now."

    Well, the thread starter accomplished his goal on this fragrance, which seems to have been not so much to review this wonderful perfume but self-promotion instead.

    This fragrance was NEVER "controversial." If you read the posts, in every thread, concerning Terre d'Hermes, you will find that the overwhelming number of reviews are either "good" to "really good."

    Now you are seeing that even people who did not like this fragrance initially are changing their opinions. That's hardly surprising given the complexity and artistry of this scent. Kudos to those who expressed how much they liked this scent at the beginning instead of falling in lockstep with the original poster's dire opinion.

    I have a bottle of this and love it. I ALSO love Equipage and Roccobar. Time marches on and fragrance has to stay current, if not ahead of the curve. To crank out another 80s fragrance would have been the real problem.

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