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  1. #1
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Fall of Fragrance Houses

    For the past couple of months, I have been reading many articles and reviews about classic fragrance houses whose newer products arent as good as their old classics.

    Guerlain and Hermes come to mind (with their newer releases heavily criticised), while many people think YSL is way past its best too.

    Some arent too happy with the direction that Erwin Creed is taking with the new releases by Creed, but there are still many people out there who think that Himalaya and Love in White stand side by side with the best of vintage Creed....so I guess Creed is safe...for now.

    What fragrance house do you think is a pale shadow of its former great self ?
    -

  2. #2
    Joel_Cairo's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    Davidoff
    Dunhill

  3. #3

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    Just talking about the 'suitable for male' frags here:

    Guerlain - that is a wide field. I could write pages, and perhaps would be undecided in the end. :-/

    Hermes - I cannot see them falling at all. Their scents have been, still are excellent, I find. A little week, maybe. But there are customers who appreciate them particularly for such self containment. There was loud lamenting about Terre D'Hermes recently here; completely off track, I found. I think Hermes did nothing as good since Bel Ami.

    Not a fall, more a fading away seems to take place in the house of Lanvin: L'homme was alright but only a shadow of its glorious past: Monsieur Lanvin, Men, the old Lanvin Vetyver 'having had it's time' - a fatal error!

    Another one that did not 'fall' and still not make it into this century (of poor marketing): Maurer & Wirtz. Their luxurious Tabac Original, never surpassed by anything from that house, never watered down as so many others, has been dropped to the lower shelves - considered mass market because of plain old packing and modest price (the soap is excellent too).

    Versace
    - I know the scents not well enough, to be saying something definite. Their scent buisness was perhaps very much related to the personality of Gianni V.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    This seems like a good thread to ask:

    What house do you predict will go out of business first? Are there any scents that we should stock up on because they might go out of production? I'd hate to fall in love with a frag just to have it disappear.


    -ben
    Nihil Obstat Ben


    [url=http://www.basenotes.net/wardrobe/1883]My Wardrobe[/url]

  5. #5

    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    Side question.

    Is there any new houses, that at the moment are "underground", and has realeased only couple of cents, but great ones?

    What should we look in the future.

    And another question. Lets say a band called Perfume put out there deput album. Its not great, but holds a great promise. Does the same apply to fragrance houuses? Or do you have to release a cent that is great now and not just demo cent?

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    Any company in any business does not have to have a "hit" with their first product. It is a question of whether their first product was a total disaster and whether they have the resources and knowhow to produce better products.

  7. #7

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    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    I don't think Guerlain is falling at all... L'Instant is indeed a great fragrance!!

  8. #8
    aubrgene's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    The fragrances of Jean Desprez. Please, please bring back Versailles pour homme.
    "A great perfume is a work of art, it can lift our days, haunt our nights and create the milestones of our memories. Fragrance is liquid emotion. And that never goes out of fashion. " MICHAEL EDWARDS

  9. #9
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    Werent there recent reports of YSL laying off people? Also, many people think that Guerlain hasnt been the same since it was acquired.
    -

  10. #10

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    To say it in a few sentences - Guerlain is such a giant, the investment must have been huge, certainly not to let a world leader fall! The same, I believe applies to YSL on a smaller scale. Both own a treasure of customer good will, and returns will flow next to automativally from just reproducing the scents designed and established decades (centuries) ago. Most of these are still bestsellers, and the least profitable ones may in fact be dropped. They call that 'slimming'. If the new ownership just wants to keep cashing in, they can leave it to the marketers to stay up-to date with commercials a la Tom Ford, or even less than that. Chanel No.5, today, is still just aldehydes, the right model, and classical packaging in white and black (Lagerfeld helped). Another example is the turquoise- gold 4711 label, the only original cologne that survived in the world market. Ownership changes there were frequent, and any accessory labels were dropped. The original formula didn't need to be changed, it is no secret any more, and production costs are low. Marketing costs are moderate - and the cash keeps coming in!

    I wouldn't dare predictions concerning intentions/ambitions of the owners. Also, their market power would has to be looked at. Is there dominance? Little do we know! Jicky in a sealed plastic bag ? Michael has shown everybody - it's a possibility!
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    Quote Originally Posted by RCavs
    I don't think Guerlain is falling at all... L'Instant is indeed a great fragrance!!
    I absolutely agree.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    YSL and Davidoff. My goodness, Davidoff even discontinued "Davidoff" (not Zino Davidoff), one of my favourite fragrances. Relax is available in/from Germany only, if my information is not wrong, and nobody knows if it's really discontinued. Where are now new and really original fragrances from Davidoff or YSL? Rive Gauche? Body Kouros? M7? Silver Shadow? Good Life? Look around and you'll find many similar fragrances from other houses. Just commercial stuff for common taste... Yes, it brings money...

    Guerlain still on the same incredibly high quality level, without any doubt. Not my taste (I'm still not 70, maybe in the future) and I don't wear smokings :-).

    It's just my personal opinion, nothing more. :-)

  13. #13
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    I think the emergence of Bond No.9 might signal a wake up call to many of the euro fragrance houses which have been resting on their past accomplishments for so long...
    -

  14. #14

    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    Mu immediate thought was Givenchy soe some reason

  15. #15

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Russlan
    Mu immediate thought was Givenchy soe some reason
    I agree, not much since the eighties...
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    Calvin Klein that fragrance division is so hurting I feel its due to Klein sell the business and no long in touch with the concepts.

    In addition I will add Givenchy another powerhouse that is sadly failing under the direction of LVM&H

  17. #17

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp
    I think the emergence of Bond No.9 might signal a wake up call to many of the euro fragrance houses which have been resting on their past accomplishments for so long...
    Interesting observation - but so far, just a few press releases have arrived in Europe to announce 'Peace' in a conventional manner, quite boring to be honest! Prices will be juicy, it seems, and thus most producers in Europe can comfortably continue their slumber. Customers have not really been waiting impatiently as marketing has not set in yet. Let's see what the scents will smell like. 'Aus Liebe zum Duft' has carried the whole collection for a while, I noticed.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Fall of Fragrance Houses

    Quote Originally Posted by greyhueofdoubt
    This seems like a good thread to ask:

    What house do you predict will go out of business first? Are there any scents that we should stock up on because they might go out of production? I'd hate to fall in love with a frag just to have it disappear.


    -ben
    I've heard speculation about the future of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, admittedly not a major house. Apparently the illness of the master there leaves its future in doubt, so if you like their stuff, I would say, "Stock up!"

    Up and comers?

    Montale is very niche, but seems to be gaining ground.

    What will Le Labo do? Way too early to tell.

    Bond No. 9? I bought some of their stuff but now almost never wear it... It strikes me as a rather weak rip-off of Creed concepts. And prices way steeper than justified by the product!

    Prada is due to release a men's fragrance in September or October. Do they really want to branch out into fragrance? Their website doesn't even mention fragrance...

    Vertigo is also due to release a men's version in the fall; let's see what that's like. The women's Vertigo reminds me some of Costume National Scent (the original one).
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

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