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  1. #1

    Default Who Cares About The House, It's The Perfumer

    This thread might show my ignorance on the subject, but who cares if edp frederick malle produced musc ravageur and vetiver extraordinaire, it's the perfumers who shold get the credit. I was first thinking this when I read the interview with Agatha Brown. With all due respect to her, all she did was write a freaking poem for each of her scents, big whoop!!! The perfumer is the one who tried every combination and aristically put the frag together to match the mood that the producer desired in the scent.

    Go to the reveiws of some of the Creeds and look for Naed Nitram. He writes the most freaking amazing reveiws ever. With this ability he should just start writing and contacting perfumers to fulfill his creations too (I know this is a little extreme but you do get the point right?)

    I'm sorry if I offended anyone with this rant, I'm really curious to see what comments others write.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Who Cares About The House, It's The Perfumer

    Ermmm, I think the point of Edition de Parfums Frederic Malle is that he DOES give the perfumers credit?

    Ged
    Top 10 (not in order): Dunhill 1934, Dunhill Edition, Terre d'Hermes, Rive Gauche, Habit Rouge, Guerlain Vetiver, Knize Ten, Bois du Portugal, Vintage Tabarome, Green Irish Tweed

    Summer Rotation: GIT, Aventus, Erolfa, Vetiver 1948, Guerlain Vetiver, Malle VE, Terre d'Hermes, Bvlgari PH, Bvlgari Acqua, Habit Rouge EDC and Sport, ADP Colonia Assoluta, Chanel PMC, Dunhill Edition, Eau Sauvage, TF Azure Lime

  3. #3

    Default Re: Who Cares About The House, It's The Perfumer

    Yes, the perfumers to a certain degree make the scent, but they're certainly under the thumb and direction of the distributors. If Ralph Lauren makes a new fragrance, the perfumer they use might want to do one thing but if it doesn't fit with what the marketing idea, it won't fly. It's largely a combination of the two entities when you're talking about larger companies.

    Now, if you're talking about some of the more niche fragrances, that's a completely different story.
    The pursuit of philosophy is the hope that there is more to life than we realize. By philosophy, however, we come to realize that in fact there is less to life than previously imagined.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Who Cares About The House, It's The Perfumer

    Yes, perfumers get little credit for their creations. I think that independent perfumers would love to go off on their own, but the amount of capital to create their own scent with their own label and mass produce it is almost suicidal as a one time shot without direct reputation to make it sell, other than to those "in the know". Designers are the perfect vehicle to profit...their reputation for their clothes carry into their fragrances regardless and people will buy and wear it anyway just because of their label. I think it's the perfumer's way to make an easier and a better buck than to go on their own. But artistically speaking, industry awards go out to the perfumer and the perfume house, but not necessarily gain full public notariety. I guess it all depends on the perfumers ambitions on their own notariety, profitability, and artistic influence.
    *********************



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  5. #5

    Default Re: Who Cares About The House, It's The Perfumer

    Polge

  6. #6

    Default Re: Who Cares About The House, It's The Perfumer

    Isn't all about the juice? ;D

  7. #7

    Default Re: Who Cares About The House, It's The Perfumer

    I just want to recommend you to read something about perfumer world.
    Emperor of Scent by Chandler Burr describes the situation of 90-s very good.
    Perfumers were almost nobody for public. Only professionals know their names.

    And the process of buying components, making a brief, then making a samples of perfume, and so on - all from the beginning to the shelves - is shown very good.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  8. #8

    Default Re: Who Cares About The House, It's The Perfumer

    Quote Originally Posted by iMaverick
    ...but the amount of capital to create their own scent with their own label and mass produce it is almost suicidal as a one time shot without direct reputation to make it sell, other than to those "in the know". *
    Well said iMav, I think we need to acknowledge that there is art and business involved in Perfumery. Just as in other creative fields just having the 'art'/creative side develop is not enough, sufficient business knowledge needs to included to be truly viable.
    The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.
    -- Marcel Proust

  9. #9

    Default Re: Who Cares About The House, It's The Perfumer

    The perfumer playes for sure a keyrole in the making of the fragrance. He's the real engineer that concots the smell, the one able to embody a concept into a whiff. But, first of all, the concept or the idea the perfume should embody is given by the designer houses in one case and more freely chosen by noses in other cases.
    In the first case, on my opinion, things are pretty changed (in worse) in the past decade. Once also fashion houses did a new scent only every n years, and study about fragrance should be more complex, investments, also in terms of raw materials, concepts, packaging etc... were more because a new scent was not tailored following the mood of the moment, but for lasting several years like artistic things, like haute couture dresses. Now new scents are launched every season as new pret-à-porter collections are launched and all has become cheaper, made for fit just a while.
    Sometimes, when I smell things, I have the impression of entering in a good restaurant, where pasta is fresh and still hand-made; other times I feel like eating some cheap fast-food freezed spaghetti... And this phenomenon is even more noticeable for feminine fragrances.
    That's why I have great opinion of houses like Chanel that, though they have to follow fashion and trends, about perfumes they still think as perfumes like something that must "fit" for several seasons.
    Last of all accountants make perfumes: it's true that noses choose the structure of the scent, but accountants make budgets and nose requests must respect 'em. So, if a real iris is too expensive for putting it but fragrance still needs a hint of iris, they use synthetic one. No matters if results aren't exactly the same! Only experts and good noses will appreciate the difference, not the masses. And are the masses that make tons of money!

  10. #10

    Default Re: Who Cares About The House, It's The Perfumer

    I am interested in anything created by Jean-Claude Ellena

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