Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1

    Default Fragrance and gender - Chandler Burr's ideas

    Hey all,
    Just came across this blog by Chandler Burr, and he articulates one view of the whole fragrance/gender argument very strongly. Interesting thoughts.
    He also bashes certain designer fragrances, "look at the Kenneth Cole scents or Z by Zegna: Smelling them is like smelling fresh insecticide while locked in an aluminum cell", while exhalting others.
    I don't always agree with him, of course, but I think he is provocative and articulate about some issues in fragrance that are often obscured.

    http://www.chandlerburr.com/newsite/...us.php?#newtop

    Enjoy.
    Slim

    Haikus are easy
    But do not always make sense
    Refrigerator

    ____________________________________________
    My swaps and sales are now listed here:
    http://flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic.php?t=124

    And here (just search for Slim):
    http://scentsplits.wikidot.com/current-splits

  2. #2

    Default Re: Fragrance and gender - Chandler Burr's ideas

    I especially like this in his review of the new Cannabis Santal by Fresh, "If Thai Buddhist monks smoked ganja in their ancient wooden Bangkok temples on warm tropical nights and you walked by at 2am, this is what you would smell."
    I'm not sure I want to smell like that, but I am really intrigued....
    Haikus are easy
    But do not always make sense
    Refrigerator

    ____________________________________________
    My swaps and sales are now listed here:
    http://flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic.php?t=124

    And here (just search for Slim):
    http://scentsplits.wikidot.com/current-splits

  3. #3

    Default Re: Fragrance and gender - Chandler Burr's ideas

    Interesting reviews indeed.

    I agree with his review of Happy. You don't even need to smell it before you know what this scent will be like when you see the bottle. It's nice, fresh, clean, inoffensive. Cheap too. The bottle is very simple and orange, like the scent itself. Happiness in a bottle. It doesn't claim to be anything else. As the Clinique website says. "First there was Clinique Happy. A hint of citrus, a wealth of flowers. A mix of emotions. Now, introducing Clinique Happy for Men. Cool. Crisp. A hint of citrus. Wear it and be happy." It might be mainstream but I think there's a reason it is. Can't go wrong with this one.

    I don't quite agree with Black XS though. I wonder what the marketing people were thinking of when they chose the name "Black" and a black bottle with gothic writing on it. I actually burst out in laughter when I tested this - not because it's a bad scent but because it's probably the last scent I would ever name "Black". I thought Polo Black's name was a bad joke but this is just a hilarious misuse of "Black" as marketing hype. It also strikes me as extremely feminine and I'm quite sure I've hugged girls that smelled a lot like this stuff. Haven't tried other scents marketed for men that smelled like this though.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Fragrance and gender - Chandler Burr's ideas

    I also disagree with his logic about M7 being a failure. While it may never have been a popular scent IMHO it is the best and most innovative of all the YSL scents with maybe the possible exception of Rive Gauche. I don't think commercial success should be the only barometer used to guage the success and failure of a cologne.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Fragrance and gender - Chandler Burr's ideas

    Quote Originally Posted by steveharrisonmc
    I also disagree with his logic about M7 being a failure. *While it may never have been a popular scent IMHO it is the best and most innovative of all the YSL scents with maybe the possible exception of Rive Gauche. *I don't think commercial success should be the only barometer used to guage the success and failure of a cologne. *
    Burr also doesn't seem to like M7 itself. In addition to describing it as a commericial failure, he calls it,"...the smell of a smashed Fiat engulfed in flames in the emergency lane of the A6, an alarming chemical storm of burnt rubber, charred metal, singed leather, and a touch of hot polycarbon..."

    Personally, I consider it an absolute triumph and I hope it remains just popular enough to remain in production, but no more.

    --Steve
    Just because it happened to you doesn't make it interesting.

    In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

    My sales thread: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/304...85#post2614885

    Wanted: YSL Nu EdP

  6. #6

    Default Re: Fragrance and gender - Chandler Burr's ideas

    thanks for the link, Slim!

    I agree with Chandler Burr that Dior Homme is a masterpiece. He's on a roll with these new reviews, nice to see that. As for relation between perfume and gender, I'm not impressed by what he writes here. He doesn't give any closing arguments for his views on the matter. It's just a list of empty statements.

    As a rule, to any perfume sold as a "masculine" [...] one can generally attach the words "poorly designed product inferior to its feminine counterpart in ingenuity and creativity."
    [...] only dolts swallow the gendered-perfume gimmick and obey some marketing guru's [...]
    Real adults wear whatever they want.
    The ratio of good to bad among masculines is laughable [...] and so, in general, are the masculines
    I think I see what he means, but this is no way to make a point. This is how copywriters make their perfume ads. Void statements. You can hardly base a discussion on such premises.
    [font=verdana][url=http://del.icio.us/scentedpages][b]my bookmarks on del.icio.us[/b][/url][/font]
    [font=verdana][url=http://www.nstperfume.com/perfume-books/][b]my book reviews on NST[/b][/url][/font]
    [font=verdana][url=www.scentedpages.com][b]ScentedPages.com[/b][/url][/font]

  7. #7

    Default Re: Fragrance and gender - Chandler Burr's ideas

    He seems to have a personal preference for lighter and sweeter fragrances, so naturally he criticises masculine scents a lot. He does not even seem to have a nose for leather, tabac and wood notes. M7 is only one example where his trashing is an incentive for me to get really interested.
    I appreciate him as the author of the Emperor, and as a journalist. Concerning perfumes: he may have a limited ability to write about them in women's magazines. At least he knows ladies frags better.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Fragrance and gender - Chandler Burr's ideas

    I agree on the "fresh insecticide while being locked in an aluminum cell" comment about Kenneth Cole's scents.

    I couldn't have said it any better.
    Top 5 for Fall:
    1) Straight to Heaven - By Kilian
    2) New York - Nicolai
    3) Terre d'Hermes
    4) Aventus - Creed
    5)
    Flower of Immortality - By Kilian
    My mission statement: "I am not afraid to keep on living - I am not afraid to walk this world alone."

  9. #9

    Default Re: Fragrance and gender - Chandler Burr's ideas

    Burr opened this post with a review raving and praising Dior Homme...
    and oh my god, he said it all.

    I'm a woman, and I usually don't do Iris. it's usually too heavy and powdery for me, wayyyy too formal in an old lady-ish fashion. I'm 24. I do vanilla, tuberose, and other lighter florals.
    However, one thing that I don't do is segregate frangrances by gender. It's unconstitutional. I wear light male fragrances as I do feminine scents.
    I tried Dior Homme yesterday, as I walked around the local drugstore/perfumerie. Just one whiff of the bottle made me raise my eyebrows, I was intrigued!
    It's still clinging to my cream colored turtleneck. It's gorgeous. I can imagine a woman wearing this to the office, and I can imagine a man wearing this anytime he wants to get nuzzled.
    Lovely, lovely!
    Not to mention the bottle which is, indeed, work of art.

    Fresh's Cannabis Santal, if only for the Cypress Hill quotation he put there, is a must-try now. mmmm there's something inriguing about the scent of good pot. don't ask how I know. ;D

Similar Threads

  1. Serge Lutens
    By The_love in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 48
    Last Post: 13th February 2013, 05:42 PM
  2. FAQ - READ ME
    By IPaidForThisName in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 19th November 2011, 06:29 AM
  3. A fragrance with a gender identity crisis
    By mikeperez23 in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 5th October 2007, 09:12 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •