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  1. #1

    Default Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Hi all,
    Though the following fragrances have been reviewed quite a few times on the board, and some have gotten quite a lot of press lately, there are lots of new faces here lately, and I felt the need to spout off about three of my recent favorites.
    For those who have not been introduced to Frederick Malle, a little history: He opened Editions de Parfums in Paris in 2000, taking inspiration in his approach from French publishing house Gallimard, long time publishers of simple yet beautiful quality books. The idea was to allow fragrance designers to create fragrances without interference or filtering from a brand or company. They would be allowed to use the most expensive materials, and be as artistic as the wanted. This was almost a reversal of the way most fragrance companies work, employing designers to create a fragrance that reflects the personality of the brand. His idea here was to create a company that reflected the work of the personality of the designers, as accurately as possible. As a result, he has had many of the finest noses in perfumery pounding on his door.
    I have been working my way through several Malle samples over the last year and will review three below. I chose these three because they are my favorites, so far, and would be three most traditionally characterized as masculine.

    Musc Ravageur:
    This is a favorite of many, and worthy of the many accolades thrown at it since its arrival in 2000. For me, the fragrance centers around musk, vanilla, cinnamon, lavender, and the beautiful almost flowery orange peel top note (not noted in the fragrance pyramid, but I swear I smell orange.) It retains tremendous balance – it is never too sweet, never too aggressive, always present, and always subtle. It is sexy without being vulgar. It is a thoroughly modern interpretation of musk, and bears no resemblance to the bottles of musk that I remember smelling in my parent’s bathroom ( I think one really was called Sex Panther.) Created by Maurice Roucel, Musc Ravageur is a fragrance I will never be without.

    Vétiver Extraordinaire
    Let me first say that there are very few vetiver fragrances that I can enjoy. In fact, vetiver is a note that can easily ruin a fragrance for me, turning an otherwise enjoyable fragrance sour on my skin. So discovering VE was a revelation. It is reputed to contain the highest concentration of pure vetiver oil in any modern fragrance, and the effects of this indulgence are wondrous. Words commonly used to describe VE include: earthy, raw, woody, deep, oily, and spicy. It is all things, and yet it retains all of the grassy freshness that gives it air and light. Unfortunately, vetiver seems to leave my skin quickly, and I have to bathe myself in this rather generously to get any lasting power – quite impractical at this price. The general consensus, however, is that VE has quite good lasting power. It was created by Dominique Ropion.

    Noir Epices
    While the VE and MR are fragrances that focus specifically on a single chord, Noir Epices is much more abstract and symphonic. This is a fragrance that bills itself as an oriental, yet is very short on the usual sweeteners, amber, vanilla, and musk. Instead, this is a fragrance that revels in dark spices. In a way, I think this fragrance does for spices what Avignon or Kyoto did for incense, drying them out, setting these primary notes up front, letting their dry, aromatic character lead rather than softening them up with typical vanilla/tonka base. And in doing so, this may be too sharp for some. Spices include nutmeg, cinnamon, clove and various peppers, with a heavy dose of a sharp, metallic note not unlike that in L’Anarchiste, further deepening the mix. The top is quite floral, in a way that scared me off initially – notes of white rose and geranium set against a beautifully blended orange note. The drydown reveals woods (mostly santal) and patchouli, though the spices remain center stage. This is created by Michel Roudnistka

    For samples of these, Frederic Malle is notoriously generous. You can take a questionnaire online, after which they will guess at a fragrance to suite you, but I have found that the most effective way to go is just to e-mail them and request the samples you want. They sent me what I requested, along with a hand written note. This is a very classy outfit. But please, do not do this lightly. These are highly addictive fragrances, and in this case sampling inevitably leads to purchasing, and these are not cheap fragrances. You and your bank account have been warned.

    Other Malle reviews to follow…and I would love to hear comments from others...
    Thanks.
    Slim

    Haikus are easy
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Thank you for the excellent reviews. I've contacted Malle and they're sending me samples of Musc Ravageur and Noir Epices. After all the praise they receive here, I figured it was time for me to find out what they're all about.

  3. #3
    whitebar's Avatar
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    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)




    Wonderful reviews, Thanks! I really need to try Musc Ravageur.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Thanks Slim....I just sent in my request as well.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    I loved the reviews. I've only smelled Musc Ravageur so far, and it might be the most dangerous scent I've ever smelled.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Nice reviews!
    I only want to add that topnote in MR you detected as orange peel is indeed Bergamot (that's why many at bn find a similarity with Shalimar...).

  7. #7

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Quote Originally Posted by shifts
    I loved the reviews. I've only smelled Musc Ravageur so far, and it might be the most dangerous scent I've ever smelled.
    "Shifty" what do you mean dangerous ?
    Good or bad?

  8. #8

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    rjrober22: It just smells daring to my nose. I would not know when to wear it and that musc is overwhelming on me. It says oil on the sample I got, but Frederic Malle sells atomizers... How does that work? I'm thinking I should get a sample from them just to compare and see if it smells the same as the sample I received.

    I definately think I could like this one, but right now it scares the living shit out of me with it's directness and honesty. Nothing is caerful with this one. At least it doesn't seem so to my nose. I find ti very intriguing though.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    What is their email address? I would be happy to take their poll or just request samples.

    All this chatter about Musc...I am not sure I can go on without trying it!

  10. #10

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Quote Originally Posted by shifts
    rjrober22: It just smells daring to my nose. I would not know when to wear it and that musc is overwhelming on me. It says oil on the sample I got, but Frederic Malle sells atomizers... How does that work? I'm thinking I should get a sample from them just to compare and see if it smells the same as the sample I received.

    I definately think I could like this one, but right now it scares the living shit out of me with it's directness and honesty. Nothing is caerful with this one. At least it doesn't seem so to my nose. I find ti very intriguing though.
    Yeah....I've heard the oil is a LOT SRONGER than the edp
    I can't wait to try it out.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Thanks for the great reviews! ;D I have yet to try any of Malle's fragrances but I can't wait. Better start saving up!

    Quote Originally Posted by rmiller161
    What is their email address? I would be happy to take their poll or just request samples.
    The email address is contact@editionsdeparfums.com

    You can visit http://www.editionsdeparfums.com/ for more details

    or if you live in the UK check out : http://www.lessenteurs.com/. The shop is closed for now but re-opens 3rd January 2006.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Is it me or does that website just suck :-? I can't navigate through it for the life of me. Seems like it was constructed by a kid.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Quote Originally Posted by shifts
    rjrober22: It just smells daring to my nose. I would not know when to wear it and that musc is overwhelming on me. It says oil on the sample I got, but Frederic Malle sells atomizers... How does that work? I'm thinking I should get a sample from them just to compare and see if it smells the same as the sample I received.

    I definately think I could like this one, but right now it scares the living shit out of me with it's directness and honesty. Nothing is caerful with this one. At least it doesn't seem so to my nose. I find ti very intriguing though.
    The oil comes in a bottle with a choice of spray or dropper. It's milder than the edt.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Quote Originally Posted by Noseorgy
    Is it me or does that website just suck :-? I can't navigate through it for the life of me. Seems like it was constructed by a kid.

    which website??? I've had no problems with either.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    i've just mailed them to receive some of the samples they answered soon tellin me that it should be possible to ask for 3 samples not more than that :'( :'( :'( :'(

  16. #16

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Excellent reviews!

    Whenever I wear Musc Ravageur, I always get compliments and asked what it is that I am wearing.
    Fine fragrance is alive; it breathes, unfolds and unravels with each passing hour....

    Roja Dove

  17. #17

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Quote Originally Posted by rednut
    [quote author=Noseorgy link=1135817066/0#11 date=1135871022]Is it me or does that website just suck :-? I can't navigate through it for the life of me. *Seems like it was constructed by a kid.

    which website??? I've had no problems with either. [/quote]
    The Malle website, it seems as though I can click on everything and the new screen comes up but I can't view the whole thing. It won't let me scroll down or anywhere. Basically when I see the frag spectrum I can only see the top part of it and it won't let me see the whole thing.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Well you guys have convinced me. I just emailed requesting four samples. Let's see if they are feeling generous. 8-)
    "Ca sent les pieds!"

  19. #19

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Website problems might be your browser - I use Safari or Mozilla and it's fine...

  20. #20

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Quote Originally Posted by Concord
    [quote author=shifts link=1135817066/0#7 date=1135863814]rjrober22: It just smells daring to my nose. I would not know when to wear it and that musc is overwhelming on me. It says oil on the sample I got, but Frederic Malle sells atomizers... How does that work? I'm thinking I should get a sample from them just to compare and see if it smells the same as the sample I received.

    I definately think I could like this one, but right now it scares the living shit out of me with it's directness and honesty. Nothing is caerful with this one. At least it doesn't seem so to my nose. I find ti very intriguing though.
    The oil comes in a bottle with a choice of spray or dropper. It's milder than the edt.
    [/quote]

    It's milder? Woaa, I wonder if the EdT is for me then... I'm still kind of curious to try it out.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    I bought the oil for my girl for Christmas. She was out of town and just opened it tonight - she was very happy. I have a decant of the edt and I think the oil is softer. The edt has a harsh quality (balsamic?) that sometimes is slow to mellow. The oil is more blended - it's like an instant drydown.

    I think this is the most sensual fragrance I know. I'm glad the girl liked it. The day I bought it I was out shopping with another female friend. When she smelled Musc Ravageur at Barneys she said, "That's naughty. That's the girl that shows up late at night wearing a mink coat and nothing underneath." She couldn't stop smelling it. The girl I'm seeing is fairly new and not knowledgeable about scents, though she's charmed by my hobby. She has a timid side to her personality, so I thought this might help get her in touch with her dark side.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Just a note: I just got the samples Malle had recommended (same as your three). They only sent two, however. Whether this was an oversight on their part or they considered the Vetiver Ex. a third-place finisher and excludable is open to debate.

    I gave the Noir Epices to an SA at Saks.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Quote Originally Posted by absynthium
    i've just mailed them to receive some of the samples they answered soon tellin me that it should be possible to ask for 3 samples not more than that :'( :'( :'( :'(
    Well they're 5 ml sprays. Isn't three of those generous enough?

  24. #24

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Let me start off by saying the oil of Musc ravageur is much softer than the scent, and while this scent is superb, I found that after a bottle I could not wear it anymore, it became too vulgar, and clung to me like a wetsuit..I've watched, and owned most scents from this company.The modern, artistic edge of Frederic Malle, has made this the best frag. company. I'm presently a big fan of L'eau d Hiver, a clean soft musc, allways pleasant to wear...But Carnal Flower has become my new fave, this tuberose scent stops me in my tracks, it's a clean, solar floral(yes it is unisex), opens with a hit of juicy fruit gum like fruitiness (maybe intentional), then evolves into an intense, but not overwhelming spiritual high..nothing weighs this down, no vanilla, or heavy oriental notes, the concentration of oil in this one is 25%, vetiver is 8%, epices noir 10%, musc is 11%...so go figure, it realy is a parfum. Well worth the journey, and the steep price..this one goes for $230 for 3.3 oz.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    I wish they'd get Jaques Polge to to do an edition for them! Any thoughts from other members on perfumers they'd like to see completely unrestricted?

  26. #26

    Default Re: Frederic Malle Reviews (Long winded)

    Quote Originally Posted by tmn15
    I wish they'd get Jaques Polge to to do an edition for them!
    I think he is under contract with Chanel.
    "You can ignore reality, but you can't ignore the consequences of ignoring reality." - Ayn Rand

    "I hold it that a little rebellion now and then is a good thing, and as necessary in the political world as storms in the physical...It is a medicine necessary for the sound health of government." - Thomas Jefferson

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