Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 30 of 30
  1. #1

    Default Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    I recently obtained this obscure, discontinued fragrance. When I first took a whiff, I immediately associated this fragrance with Monsieur Carven and Bois du Portugal plus a distinct note of celery! I put it on my skin and at first I could smell that woody, spicy and a sort of sharp bitter floral (carnation?) that I get in Monsieur Carven. The drydown is a very pleasant kind of soapy-freshness on top of a leathery wood base. I can't stop smelling my hand!

    I was wondering if anyone know the olfactory pyramid for this scent?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    I have a fetish for Phileas, which I never got around to smelling. No pyramid though! But the scent is described in my discontinued French book, which sometimes has pyramids and sometimes not. Will let you know in 8 hours.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Wedge,
    dunno exactly but all I got is some info I digged when writing a Phileas review for Tribute To Classics thread.
    Here's the excerpt on the ingredients:
    ---
    ...
    Hope you know all who Phileas Fogg is. If you do not, go read Jules Verne's novel - "Around the World in Eighty Days" (you must have done that in your juvenile years!) and have fun.
    And in some correlation with that, I heard some story behind this scent from a Russian lifestyle expert (cheers Nacht!). That is, the perfumer (don't know the man) arranged together a variety of ingredients from different continents to obtain a kind of round-the-world voyage out of it.
    Here they go:
    from Europe - cypress, cistus, celery from Provence, Balkan oakmoss, Italian lemon;
    from Africa - Reunion vetiver, basil from Comoros, Moroccan wormwood, Kenyan marigold, jasmine from Egypt;
    from Asia - Chinese cinnamon tree leaves, Indian sandalwood, patchouli from Indonesia;
    from America - curly mint, Caribbean limette, Virginia cedarwood.

    The only ingredients list found on the net (from scentdirect.com) is, as we now see, not that accurate:
    TOP NOTE: Aldehyde, Basil, Bergamot, Green Note, Juniperberry, Lemon
    HEART NOTE: Carnation, Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Jasmin, Patchouli, Pine Needle, Thyme, Vetiver
    BASE NOTE: Amber, Labdanum, Leather, Moss, Musk, Olibanum
    ...
    ---

    Like the scent very much myself.

    Regards, Odor.
    "One man's "cat piss" is another one's "masterpiece" (popular fragrance wisdom)

  4. #4

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    I love most Nina Ricci scents and have just added Signoricci to my collection. *I have never smelled Phileas.

    I can let you have some details from Scentdirect.co.uk as follows:

    Phileas-
    A leathery chypre released in 1984

    Top: aldehydes, basil oil, bergamot oil, green note, juniperberry, lemon
    Middle: Carnation, cedarwood oil, cinnamon, jasmin, patchouli, pine needle, thyme and vetiver
    Basenotes: Amber, labdanum, leather, moss, musk, oilbanum.

    Scentdirect no longer stock it Im afraid. *I have not seen it here, or anywhere for years

    Trot Beaten to it as usual! Cheers The-odor

  5. #5
    Yvan
    Guest

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Earlier this year, I got a mini of Phileas, but when I got home and tried it, I found out it had gone bad! It smelled really stale! The store was too far away to drive back to get a refund for just a mini. I should've guessed from the ragged condition of the box that it was in.

    BUT...you guys have made me decide to wear Signoricci today! I haven't worn it for several months, and I look forward to it.

  6. #6
    MJH
    Guest

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Phileas is the only Nina Ricci scent that I 'get': I've tried several other scents like Signoricci and Farouche, and they've been 'nice enough', but not that memorable (IMO). Phileas is strong and distinctive, but it reminds me so closely of Yatagan that it almost seems redundant to own both.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Thanks for the information guys! [smiley=thumbsup.gif] to The-odor and Trotsky!

  8. #8
    Dependent
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
    3,635

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    I find Phileas related but very distinct from Yatagan. Phileas has a more complex mixture of accords with a warm musk drydown that is far more refined than bold Yatagan with its pine and castoreum.

  9. #9
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    McLean, NYC, & Búzios
    Posts
    78,353

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Phileas is a wonderful scent. Lucky to have a 125ml in my collection.

  10. #10
    AromiErotici
    Guest

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    I enjoy Phileas and have always thought it was strongly associated with Yatagan, but superior to it. It is a bright, herbaceous masculine that deserves some accolades.

  11. #11
    Dependent
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
    3,635

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Also I find Phileas has a light tomato leaf effect, and a distinct soapy iris touch which most definitely distinguishes it from the nearly gourmande fresh celery seed of Yatagan. It is most definitely not redundant to own both. I prefer Yatagan since the tomato leaf and iris are not quite my cup of tea. But it does have a unique, sophisticated character. I'm holding onto my sealed bottle until I can get $1000 for it!

  12. #12
    vita odorifera
    perfaddict's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Lagos
    Posts
    7,411
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    I just got a very generous decant from the very kind easyfish and my immediate impression was "Yatagan-lite". Phileas however appears more complex.
    ointments and perfume delight the heart....

    #BBOG!

  13. #13

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    A sadly discontinued fragrance of immense beauty. Definitely complex.


    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  14. #14

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    It is indeed a real loss to the world of perfumery. Phileas is deep and complex. I don't get it as a "Yatagan lite", in fact, I couldn't point any other fragrance like that.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Quote Originally Posted by lgarruda View Post
    I don't get it as a "Yatagan lite"
    neither do I even if they shares some similarities


    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  16. #16

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Sounds interesting. I like celery leaf, tomato leaf, and certainly the pine notes appeal to me. Glad to hear about this, even though it is discontinued. In "the day" I wore Signoricci, probably would find it too heavy now!
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  17. #17

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Quote Originally Posted by odysseusm View Post
    Sounds interesting. I like celery leaf, tomato leaf, and certainly the pine notes appeal to me. Glad to hear about this, even though it is discontinued. In "the day" I wore Signoricci, probably would find it too heavy now!
    If my memory serves me well you're not among the biggest fans of amber. Aren't you? Phileas has a slight (but absolutely remarkable), sort of metallic, amber note throughout.


    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  18. #18

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Phileas is an example of the house of Nina Ricci in what I consider its best era. So much has been lost in the world of perfumery.

  19. #19
    Dependent
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
    3,635

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Quote Originally Posted by odysseusm View Post
    Sounds interesting. I like celery leaf, tomato leaf, and certainly the pine notes appeal to me. Glad to hear about this, even though it is discontinued. In "the day" I wore Signoricci, probably would find it too heavy now!
    The pine is kind of an accent lending a bit of fresh crispness but not an identifiable coniferous character. In fact, I find the celery seed and later soft musk are the only really identifiable notes in this one, which in itself is quite interesting. Sophisticated, elegant, and lacking sweetness, manly but not in your face. Good longevity, subtle projection. Not surprised it was discontinued -- likely too subtle for most men, and too dry for women (no noticeable flowers besides orris root).

  20. #20

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Not that similar to yatagan to me either. This smells more.. brown with a greenish top.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Quote Originally Posted by alfarom View Post
    If my memory serves me well you're not among the biggest fans of amber. Aren't you? Phileas has a slight (but absolutely remarkable), sort of metallic, amber note throughout.
    Good call! Yes, I am not a fan of amber, but particularly the buttery-sweet kind. A metallic-dry kind... I'm open to the possibility at least.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  22. #22

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyBars View Post
    The pine is kind of an accent lending a bit of fresh crispness but not an identifiable coniferous character. In fact, I find the celery seed and later soft musk are the only really identifiable notes in this one, which in itself is quite interesting. Sophisticated, elegant, and lacking sweetness, manly but not in your face. Good longevity, subtle projection. Not surprised it was discontinued -- likely too subtle for most men, and too dry for women (no noticeable flowers besides orris root).
    What MonkeyBars has said makes it sound good to me.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  23. #23

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Quote Originally Posted by odysseusm View Post
    Good call! Yes, I am not a fan of amber, but particularly the buttery-sweet kind. A metallic-dry kind... I'm open to the possibility at least.
    So you'll probably discover a GREAT fragrance!


    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  24. #24

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    i just got it today, bought it blind on ebay for a very good price (£19 for a 50ml bottle, unused, no box), after reading all the glowing reviews (and particularly the thumbs up given by alfarom who's opinion i respect very much) and seeing how many people find similarities between phileas and yatagan i have decided to 'jump in' as i love yatagan!
    i also cannot help to mention that you can still buy a full bottle, boxed and all (various sizes) from the german ebay shop called 'duftwelt hamburg', see below:

    http://www.ebay.de/itm/30-ml-PHILEAS...item2568358cd9

    or from italian ebay shop profumpiccini, an even better price:

    http://www.ebay.it/itm/Phileas-Nina-...item27c25b1ad0

  25. #25

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    I just got hold of a small bottle but I have to say I'm a little disappointed.
    The celery note seems more of a celery flavoured gut rot sherry, nowhere near as delicate as I had hoped and overall heavy and dense.
    Maybe the bottle is a bit stale or maybe it will grow on me, there are plenty of notes mentioned in the pyramid, I live in hope that they will start to crystallize ..

  26. #26
    Dependent
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
    3,635

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Quote Originally Posted by martinijo View Post
    nowhere near as delicate as I had hoped and overall heavy and dense.
    oh man if you think Phileas is heavy and dense, you might as well stop your 80s fragrance research right there!

  27. #27

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyBars View Post
    oh man if you think Phileas is heavy and dense, you might as well stop your 80s fragrance research right there!
    Yep


    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  28. #28

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyBars View Post
    oh man if you think Phileas is heavy and dense, you might as well stop your 80s fragrance research right there!

    To be honest, most of my scents are old school 80's or 90's and i am very fond of nearly all of them. Maybe heavy and dense weren't the best words to use or maybe the bottle has gone off. Maybe it's just not the scent for me.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    I thought I had to update this thread as I have been wearing Phileas recently and have started to love it. So much character! It reminds a little of Cacharel Pour Homme, though I don't know if nutmeg is listed in the ingredients.Only problem is what I am going to do when I finish my rather tiny bottle :-(

  30. #30

    Default Re: Phileas by Nina Ricci - a rare gem.

    That's why I treat mine like a real gem

Similar Threads

  1. Nina Ricci Phileas
    By Ric in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 10th February 2012, 02:10 PM
  2. Nina Ricci - Ricci Club Haute Concentration
    By petruccijc in forum Missing Fragrances List
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 4th April 2010, 10:34 PM
  3. Nina Ricci introduces new signature scent to the US
    By Grant in forum Basenotes Articles
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 2nd October 2007, 09:30 PM
  4. More on the new Nina Ricci.
    By cedriceccentric in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 8th August 2007, 03:23 AM
  5. nina ricci: the notes
    By castorpollux in forum Missing Fragrances List
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 8th August 2006, 03:36 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •