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  1. #1

    Default The noses: 01 - JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Born in 1957 in Grasse, France, to a family of perfumers, he was initiated into the practice at 17 with hands-on experience. Teachers: Maurice Thiboud (Geneve) and Edmond Roudnistska.
    1976 - First (Van Cleef & Arpels) 1st parfum.
    Books: Un amour de fleurs gourmandes - J.C. Ellena
    Mémoires du parfum - J.C. Ellena, J Gontier


    Interview


  2. #2

    Default Re: JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    The only one I've tried here is Bois Farine. It is mostly weird to my nose. Don't really know what to make of it. I've tried L'Artisan's Amber too, but not Amber Extreme. I don't find this enough to vote in this poll

    I'm glad you stared it though! Keep up the good work!

  3. #3

    Default Re: JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Ellena made Globe? Wow, who knew? I certainly didn't. Pretty cool.

    In general his work does nothing for me. Ambre Extreme and Bois Farine are the exceptions. The rest of this material really leaves me cold. I so much prefer the original Acqua di Parma Colonia to his Colonia Assoluta, for example.

    I'm voting for Globe just to help out this great scent's reputation. In fact I think I'll wear it today.
    --Chris
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  4. #4

    Default Re: JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Because JCE has made so many excellent (IMHO) fragrances,this is the toughest poll yet for me. He is one of my favorite 'noses'.

    After thinking about it,i went with TDC Bois d'Iris with L'eau d'Hiver,Bois Farine and Ambre Narguile tied for second. And then there is Un Jardin Sur le Nil,Vetiver Tonka,Divine Bergamote......

    Jeff
    "You can ignore reality, but you can't ignore the consequences of ignoring reality." - Ayn Rand

    "I hold it that a little rebellion now and then is a good thing, and as necessary in the political world as storms in the physical...It is a medicine necessary for the sound health of government." - Thomas Jefferson

  5. #5

    Default Re: JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Voted for Bois Farine but I also love Ambre Extrême, his scents for Frédéric Malle and Bois d'Iris and Rose Poivrée for Different Company. Haven't had a chance to try his Hermès scents yet. One of of the greatest contemporary noses, IMO.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  6. #6

    Default Re: JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    How about Declaration by Cartier, another JC Ellena creation.

  7. #7

    Default Re: JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Though I won't swear to it, I believe that Globe was created by Rochas' in-house parfumeur at the time, Nicolas Mamounas, who, before he left, also came up with Macassar and Eau de Rochas Homme.

  8. #8

    Default Re: JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Jean-Claude Ellena to me Only, is an outstanding and classic designer of
    fragrances. I have tried most all that are available and like them all.
    From what I have read I have the feeling this man has a very good heart
    and a very caring person. Along with the natural creativity, passion and I
    am assuming blessed with a great sense of smell he creates these fine
    fragrances. I like the fact that he is said to look for the natural scents of our
    everyday life’s and also finding the unusual in his travels (Bois Farine/Wood Flour).
    I am sure you might be able to say this about many noses but after all we are writing
    about him and not them. Lets just say I have this sixth sense about people and
    I believe in time he will go down in perfume history as one of the greats and
    might I add... I am happy to be around to sample and own his creations.
    My vote was for Wood of Iris… Bois d'Iris


    Cg
    CG

  9. #9

    Default Re: JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Quote Originally Posted by levente
    Though I won't swear to it, I believe that Globe was created by Rochas' in-house parfumeur at the time, Nicolas Mamounas, who, before he left, also came up with Macassar and Eau de Rochas Homme.

    Levente you are correct.

    *Globe* was not created by Jean Claude-Ellena; it was created by Nicolas Mamounas, who was Rochas in-house nose, as you correctly note, when it was created in 1990. It is generally a well-known fact that Mamounas created *Globe* and it can be confirmed in a number of books on fragrances. For example, see Nigel Groom. The Perfume Handbook (London: Chapman & Hall, 1992), page 140.

    The_Love, if you are using the list of noses and their creations recently posted by one of our fellow Basenoters, that's where the error probably occurred. Jean-Claude Ellena is incorrectly listed as the creator of *Globe* in that list. I would double check that list at least against the Basenotes directory, which might not be as complete, but which has the virtue of almost always being correct.

    scentemental



    P.S. Having tried almost all of Ellena's creations (I am a huge fan of his fragrances), I voted for *Vetiver Tonka*.

  10. #10

    Default Re: JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    *Globe* was not created by Jean Claude-Ellena; it was created by Nicolas Mamounas, who was Rochas in-house nose, as you correctly note, when it was created in 1990. It is generally a well-known fact that Mamounas created *Globe* and can be confirmed in a number of books on fragrances. For example, see Nigel Groom. The Perfume Handbook (London: Chapman & Hall, 1992), page 140.
    Removed from the list
    My information is: affiches de perfums

  11. #11

    Default Re: JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    I guess this means I really don't like his stuff. Love this Globe I'm wearing today, though. Really great stuff. I wonder why I don't like this guy's stuff? He's got such a nice picture.
    --Chris
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  12. #12

    Default Re: JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Quote Originally Posted by The_love
    *Globe* was not created by Jean Claude-Ellena; it was created by Nicolas Mamounas, who was Rochas in-house nose, as you correctly note, when it was created in 1990. It is generally a well-known fact that Mamounas created *Globe* and can be confirmed in a number of books on fragrances. For example, see Nigel Groom. The Perfume Handbook (London: Chapman & Hall, 1992), page 140.
    Removed from the list
    My information is: affiches de perfums

    The_Love,

    I had also checked the affiches de parfums list and it seems that this is the source of the error for the recently submitted list by the Basenotes member mentioned above.

    BTW, great idea for a poll. Your polling efforts are much appreciated. I know such polls take time and effort. I have always thought there should be more emphasis placed on noses. I am grateful that your poll is doing that.

    Regards,

    scentemental

  13. #13

    Default Re: JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Very difficult to vote in this poll. :-?
    Colonia Assoluta -Great!

  14. #14

    Default Re: JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Quote Originally Posted by Jesus
    Very difficult to vote in this poll. :-?
    Colonia Assoluta -Great!
    Yes I agree on both!
    But I value Un Jardin en Mediterranée even higher, and if I stay the only one who loves it! I shall neither buy this, Nil, or Bigarade conc. for myself, as I find them too volatile on me or my clothes. Alas!
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  15. #15

    Default Re: JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Quote Originally Posted by DustB
    I guess this means I really don't like his stuff. *Love this Globe I'm wearing today, though. *Really great stuff. *I wonder why I don't like this guy's stuff? *He's got such a nice picture.
    --Chris

    I'm amazed Chris that none of his creations made its way to your heart! I know you like L'Artisan's perfumes and am thinking maybe you should give Bois Farine a chance. I was introduced to it by Julian, and man am I in love with it! In fact, I'm gonna wear it now.

  16. #16

    Default Re: The noses: 01 - JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    I am pretty sure that JCE did create Globe. From a Cosmetics International article on Globe, 12/15/1990:

    "A great deal of work was undertaken by the Rochas team to conceive the project: with Anne Boutigny at the head, Jean Claude Ellena of Givaudan to conceive the fragrance and Pochet to create the flacon (which was designed by Rochas). It took one year to bring all the vital elements together and when they did, they launched the fragrance without the usual Press extravaganza."

  17. #17
    MJH
    Guest

    Default Re: The noses: 01 - JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Ok, of the scents listed, I like Eau Parfumee au the verte, Angeliques sous la pluie, Cologne Bigarade, Un Jardin en Mediterranee, but the only one I love is Ambre Extreme. In fact, I remember thinking it had to be a mistake the first time I saw Ambre Extreme listed as an Ellena creation.

  18. #18

    Default Re: The noses: 01 - JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Quote Originally Posted by justcurious
    I am pretty sure that JCE did create Globe. From a Cosmetics International article on Globe, 12/15/1990:

    "A great deal of work was undertaken by the Rochas team to conceive the project: with Anne Boutigny at the head, Jean Claude Ellena of Givaudan to conceive the fragrance and Pochet to create the flacon (which was designed by Rochas). It took one year to bring all the vital elements together and when they did, they launched the fragrance without the usual Press extravaganza."


    justcurious,

    I sure would like to get my hand on that article. Can you please provide a link or the full article itself. The little bit you provide doesn't mention Globe. I would like to read the whole article. Clearly if I'm mistaken then so are a number of author's of some pretty serious books on pefumery and it's creators. I know of one other book that mentions Mamounas as the creator.

    Thanks,

    scentemental

  19. #19

    wicozani's Avatar
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    Default Re: The noses: 01 - JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Wonderful idea, the_Love! Jean-Claude Ellena has a special place in my heart, as it seems for many others. *I appreciate Colonia Assoluta perhaps the most, and own a new bottle of it. However, for shear joy, purity, and effect my vote goes to Divine Bergamote! I would love to get an enormous splash bottle of this, so I can use it like I do Puig's Agua Lavanda, another great pure, simple, joyful cologne.

    Jeff

  20. #20

    Default Re: The noses: 01 - JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Voted for Bois Farine.
    'I am not difficult, I am definite!' - Hedy Lamarr

  21. #21

    Default Re: The noses: 01 - JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Didn't vote , because although he is one of my favourite perfumers , his absolute masterpiece , the one he is also proud of , Declaration by Cartier, is not there.

    Another one to put on future lists : Lily Prune Sublime Vanilla

  22. #22

    Default Re: The noses: 01 - JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Sure, here is the whole article:

    Rochas' Brave New World

    Rochas is currently on the high road to success. Since the beginning of the autumn season, Rochas has been inundating the marketplace with new entries. First there was Energy Pure, the new skin care line, then came the relaunch of the 7 carresses of Femme bath and body range. Then on 17 October came the official opening of the Marcel Rochas for Men boutique on the Avenue George V in Paris. This shop is like no other: it concerns itself with absolutely everything for men -- not only clothes, but books, furniture and office accessories. What you find there is a total masculine identity with the image and the class of the celebrated couturier...but the main event to accompany the opening was the launch of Globe, Rochas' new fragrance for men.

    A great deal of work was undertaken by the Rochas team to conceive the project: with Anne Boutigny at the head, Jean Claude Ellena of Givaudan to conceive the fragrance and Pochet to create the flacon (which was designed by Rochas). It took one year to bring all the vital elements together and when they did, they launched the fragrance without the usual Press extravaganza.

    The Globe man, as defined by Rochas, is a warm man who loves life, is interested in everything and looks at life from a "simultaneously poetic, deep and aware point of view". To reinforce this image, the Rochas team recreated his universe by transforming one of its offices on the avenue Francois 1er into an apartment designed specifically for the Globe man. The luxurious and warm decor portrayed a warm and generous man. A mappamondi hung on the wall along with a large mural of the female shape, emphasizing its rounded curves. Everything there echoed the image of "round and global": a crystal ball, a set of petanque boules, a bowl of fruit, a globe.

    The Globe fragrance is just as original. Rochas has used new and forgotten essences to create the fragrance such as bolto, a medicinal plant, which lends a certain freshness to the top note, along with mandarin and galbanum. Absinthe and mate highlight the heart notes accompanied by basil, rose and geranium. There is a new note in the base notes too--rhubarb--which has never been used before. It is blended with amber, vetiver and incense.

    The bottle is another innovation. It is spherical and its continents and lines of longitude and latitude are etched onto the frosted glass. The word Globe does not appear on the bottle, only the name Rochas (and in very small letters). The Globe range comprises: metal & glass 100ml flacon, FF310 and glass 100ml flacon, FF155.

    The same subtle discretion is used in the advertising campaign (by the Succes Slad agency) where only a man's hand holding a flacon of Globe is shown.

    There is no doubt that the launch of Globe is a true challenge for Rochas. The company is counting on the new fragrance to take it back into a leading position in the international men's fragrance market, 20 years after the celebrated launch of Moustache in 1949. It is true that Rochas introduced Macassar in 1979, but Rochas now judges this fragrance as "too modern for its time". Currently men's fragrance only accounts for 3 per cent of Rochas' total turnover--a bias which Laurent Normand, managing director, is hoping to correct. To achieve an estimated 15 per cent turnover objective in men's fragrance, Rochas has invested more than FF20 million in Globe with a media budget of FF10 million. Globe is forecast to make FF25 million over the next two months and to achieve a 1991 total turnover statistic of FF35 million.

    Globe rolled out primarily in 1,800 outlets throughout France and Belgium. Other European market introductions will follow in 1991.

  23. #23

    Default Re: The noses: 01 - JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Quote Originally Posted by justcurious
    Sure, here is the whole article:

    Rochas' Brave New World

    Rochas is currently on the high road to success. Since the beginning of the autumn season, Rochas has been inundating the marketplace with new entries. First there was Energy Pure, the new skin care line, then came the relaunch of the 7 carresses of Femme bath and body range. Then on 17 October came the official opening of the Marcel Rochas for Men boutique on the Avenue George V in Paris. This shop is like no other: it concerns itself with absolutely everything for men -- not only clothes, but books, furniture and office accessories. What you find there is a total masculine identity with the image and the class of the celebrated couturier...but the main event to accompany the opening was the launch of Globe, Rochas' new fragrance for men.

    A great deal of work was undertaken by the Rochas team to conceive the project: with Anne Boutigny at the head, Jean Claude Ellena of Givaudan to conceive the fragrance and Pochet to create the flacon (which was designed by Rochas). It took one year to bring all the vital elements together and when they did, they launched the fragrance without the usual Press extravaganza.

    The Globe man, as defined by Rochas, is a warm man who loves life, is interested in everything and looks at life from a "simultaneously poetic, deep and aware point of view". To reinforce this image, the Rochas team recreated his universe by transforming one of its offices on the avenue Francois 1er into an apartment designed specifically for the Globe man. The luxurious and warm decor portrayed a warm and generous man. A mappamondi hung on the wall along with a large mural of the female shape, emphasizing its rounded curves. Everything there echoed the image of "round and global": a crystal ball, a set of petanque boules, a bowl of fruit, a globe.

    The Globe fragrance is just as original. Rochas has used new and forgotten essences to create the fragrance such as bolto, a medicinal plant, which lends a certain freshness to the top note, along with mandarin and galbanum. Absinthe and mate highlight the heart notes accompanied by basil, rose and geranium. There is a new note in the base notes too--rhubarb--which has never been used before. It is blended with amber, vetiver and incense.

    The bottle is another innovation. It is spherical and its continents and lines of longitude and latitude are etched onto the frosted glass. The word Globe does not appear on the bottle, only the name Rochas (and in very small letters). The Globe range comprises: metal & glass 100ml flacon, FF310 and glass 100ml flacon, FF155.

    The same subtle discretion is used in the advertising campaign (by the Succes Slad agency) where only a man's hand holding a flacon of Globe is shown.

    There is no doubt that the launch of Globe is a true challenge for Rochas. The company is counting on the new fragrance to take it back into a leading position in the international men's fragrance market, 20 years after the celebrated launch of Moustache in 1949. It is true that Rochas introduced Macassar in 1979, but Rochas now judges this fragrance as "too modern for its time". Currently men's fragrance only accounts for 3 per cent of Rochas' total turnover--a bias which Laurent Normand, managing director, is hoping to correct. To achieve an estimated 15 per cent turnover objective in men's fragrance, Rochas has invested more than FF20 million in Globe with a media budget of FF10 million. Globe is forecast to make FF25 million over the next two months and to achieve a 1991 total turnover statistic of FF35 million.

    Globe rolled out primarily in 1,800 outlets throughout France and Belgium. Other European market introductions will follow in 1991.

    It's unequivocal. It's certainly is clear from this article that Jean-Claude Ellena is the nose behind *Globe*. I obviously owe an apology to The_Love for correcting him. I did it in good faith, though, thinking that book information is a pretty authoritative source, but obviously not in this case.

    Many thanks justcurious for the correct correction and my apologies to The_Love.

    The fact that JCE is the nose behind *Globe* just makes his work even that more impressive.

    Regards,

    scentemental





  24. #24

    Default Re: The noses: 01 - JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Didn't vote , because although he is one of my favourite perfumers , his absolute masterpiece , the one he is also proud of , Declaration by Cartier, is not there.
    In the next poll, I complete the list with feminine fragances.
    Sorry [smiley=embarassed.gif]

  25. #25

    Default Re: The noses: 01 - JEAN-CLAUDE ELLENA

    Interesting, the only ones I´ve sampled are Bois Farine and Bois d´Iris, and to my beginner-nostrils they are both truly special! Bois d´Iris smelled deliscious from the beginning; very deep and warm scent with several dimensions.
    When I first put on Bois Farine and sniffed it I thought: "What is this, it smells like peanuts and paper" or something along those lines. But after an hour of repetedly sniffing my arm (people on the tram must have thought I had some kind of a tic), I was instead thinking "Wow, I smell so nice!"
    I didn´t vote, that wouldn´t be fair, but I had no idea they were created by the same nose!

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