I never thought Tabac Blond could be improved upon. Cuir Mauresque is a beautifully rich and smooth leather fragrance with a very subdued candied orange note. It’s sweet, muted, powerful, and very rich. Tabac Blond can be difficult to wear in many situations; it’s heavy and unrelenting, but Cuir Mauresque has a balance and user friendliness that Tabac Blond does not. This is also much in the same vein as Dzing! A sweet, almost gourmand leather fragrance.
Miel de Bois:
I am a huge honey fan. Ever since I was tiny one of my favorite treats were those plastic tubes filled with honey. I’ve got a few wonderful honey based fragrances (Chergui, Mechant Loup, etc), but nothing I have smelled ever really captured the true essence of honey, the way I know and remember it. Let me start out by saying I have never smelled a fragrance like this in my entire life. This smells exactly like fresh unprocessed honey stored in a wooden jar. The honey accord in Miel de Bois is not overwhelming, heavy, or cloying; it’s a fresh and raw honey that smells as sweet as it does alive. This honey accord is balanced with a very dry wood, which also keeps Miel de Bois from being anywhere near cloying. Miel de Bois is also very long lasting. This is the best honey fragrance I have ever smelled. It’s definitely in my top 5! Wow.
Vetiver Oriental is my favorite Vetiver interpretation. Most of the vetiver fragrances on the market are just a bit too boring. Most smell just like a vetiver essential oil with a little bit of citrus mixed in. Vetiver Oriental, on the other hand, is a deep, rich, and complex vetiver based fragrance. With hints of dry coco, this is a sensual and exotic vetiver.
Santal de Mysore:
Santal de Mysore is SO unique. It’s like no other sandalwood fragrance ever made. The sandalwood doesn’t really take center stage in this fragrance. Instead, the opening notes are dominated by a thick and heavy carmel like accord, and the drydown is very heavy in cumin. This fragrance is really a sum of all its parts. It’s rich, sweet, spicy, and woody. An amazing lutens creation that must be tried.
Sa Majeste la Rose:
Sa Majeste la Rose is the best rose fragrance I have come across. It’s a ripe and dewy rose fragrance with notes of honey to further soften it. It’s also got a very interesting green nature that makes it smell, quite literally, alive. That would usually be harsh and grating in a rose fragrance, but the honey neutralizes the green nature of the fragrance amazingly well. This can easily be worn by either gender. Highly recommended.
MKK is such a warm and dirty fragrance. It smells so alive, like it is coming off of a hot animal or person. MKK also has a very odd vegetable influence, which gives it an almost sour nature. It dries down to something that is warm, dirty, and slightly floral. This is the ULTIMATE musk fragrance. There is nothing like it, and nothing better.
Fumerie Turque is my favorite Serge Lutens fragrance. It’s a rich and smoky fragrance with hints of rose that are barely tangible through the thick and rich smoky tobacco notes. It’s not really sweet per se, but it has just enough to make it the richest and deepest oriental I’ve ever smelled. It’s all put together by a warm boozy base. This is the best Serge Luten.
Douce Amere is a very nice Oriental with the traditional Lutens touch. I always associate ‘purple’ with this fragrance. Douce Amere is a very mysterious and pretty thick. Anise and powdery coco take center stage in this blend. My only complain is that it’s a lot sweeter than it is bitter. Other than that, this is what Lolita Lempicka for men would be like if Serge Lutens re-did it.
Chergui is one of the most beautiful honey based fragrances I have come across. It’s very rich and full bodied. There are notes of hay and spices that offset the sweetness beautifully. This is a very warm and well blended fragrance. One of Lutens best
Arabie is basically the quintessential oriental. It’s a VERY thick and spicy oriental. It’s also got dry and almost candied fruit notes that make it smell like some sort of exotic dessert. It’s amazing on the coldest winter days. I will say that is unbelievably strong. Arabie is the only fragrance that can give me a horrible headache with more than two sprays. If you’re looking for the ultimate oriental, then this might be for you.
Ambre Sultan is the best Amber fragrance. Most Amber based fragrances can be pretty linear and sweet. Ambre Sultan, however, has a very spicy counterpart, which gives it many more dimensions. It’s also one of the more animalic Amber fragrances out there. This is a very elegant and seductive fragrance that is surprisingly versatile for a Lutens. A must own for any Amber lover.