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  1. #1

    Default The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    I've really been enjoying CdG's Vettiveru lately, but because it is an EDC, the lasting power is less than impressive, and so I'm hesitant to purchase a large bottle.

    After reading the reviews, I've come to the conclusion that Vettiveru is one of the "real" smelling vetivers...the others being Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire, MPG's Route du Vetiver, and Santa Maria Novella's Vetiver.

    Which of these a) lasts well and b) has the most pleasant, refreshing, and "pure" take on vetiver, a la Vettiveru?
    Other suggestions are welcome as well.

    ps. I searched the community already, and other vetiver threads are helpful but do not specifically address the above questions.

    Thanks!
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  2. #2

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    I can't say which one is the most pure of the vetiver scents. I've never
    smelled the actual plant. I will say, though, that Vetiver Extraordinaire
    does live up to its name. It has a strong earthy feel, combined with
    an ozonic accord that fits the fragrance very well. It is superb.

    Those who have smelled it claim that Route du Vetiver is the strongest,
    most straight-ahead vetiver out there. That's probably your best bet
    for pure vetiver, but don't neglect Vetiver Extraordinaire. I do also
    think that Etro Vetiver is very good, but it is in Eau de Cologne strength.

    VE lasts all day on me.

  3. #3

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    I can't comment on the others but Vetiver Extraordinare sees 8-10 hours on my skin.

  4. #4

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    It totally depends what you're looking for. If you want a fresher, more citrusy vetiver than Vetivveru is a great call. MPG Racine is another good choice for a citrusy vetiver. If you want a more earthy vetiver than the Malle can't be beat. I haven't tried RdV, but it sounds pretty intense. For some reason every Santa Maria Novella scent that I've tried (7 or 8 of them) has progressed in a dissatisfactory manner on my skin. Could be me, could be the perfumes. In any case, their Vetiver was no exception.

  5. #5

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    Based on recommendations from men I always trusted I am still trying to obtain (at least sample) Adolfo Dominguez' Vetiver Hombre (Madrid design house). According to some reviews it might be similar to Malle's VE. In his review of VH, Castorpollux' compares it with Guerlain's Vetiver (I am talking of their old and new versions which I own). That seems to justify another vetiver in ones wardrobe.

    Malle's VE lasts well on me and is my current best! Yet another one, Sel du Vetiver by TDC doesn't last long at all (it's top in other respects but I only judge from a sample)! Unfortunately, I cannot also refer to Vettiveru as I do not know it.
    Last edited by narcus; 28th February 2007 at 11:46 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  6. #6

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    Go to the health store and buy vetiver essential oil. It's relatively cheap. Then you can determine for yourself what 'pure' vetiver smells like.
    (Didn't I post this just the other day?)

    Of the three you inquire about, I'm only familiar with Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire. In that case, the lighter notes are very pronounced and the earthy tones are there but less accentuated. It's the closest of the ones I've encountered (the others being Guerlain and Le Labo, I don't count walking past A&F as really encountering Fierce).

  7. #7

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    Now would be good time to track down a bottle of L'Artisan Vetiver, as it has recently been discontinued (try calling The Perfume House in Portland, Oregon). It is another in the category you describe.

    I have L'A, VE and SMN, and I've been told by someone who may know only SMN that it smelled very much like what she remembered fresh vetiver smelling like in somewhere like Indonesia. SMN is a very austere, dry fragrance that I don't think of as being like anything else out there.

    L'A and VE are closer to each other than either is to SMN. Both smell very "natural", and I think L'A has a bit more wood also a whiff of galangal. I think of these two as more mellow and "centered" than the somewhat jarring SMN. All three have excellent longevity with an interesting tendency to wax and wane, and VE is probably the most tenacious.

    Forced to choose just one from the three I own, I would pick the L'Artisan, which really is a masterpiece. I'd say you can't go wrong with the L'Artisan or the Malle, but would definitely be wise to sample SMN or RdV before committing, as both of those seem like potential acquired tastes.
    “They aren't connected . . . they aren't mafia. Not with names like Tuner Watson” - Jim Rockford

  8. #8

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    Quote Originally Posted by trumpet_guy
    I can't say which one is the most pure of the vetiver scents. I've never
    smelled the actual plant. I will say, though, that Vetiver Extraordinaire
    does live up to its name. It has a strong earthy feel, combined with
    an ozonic accord that fits the fragrance very well. It is superb.
    Describe "ozonic". Usually when I hear this term, "synthetic" comes to mind. But I can't imagine that something of such quality would be synthetic.

    By "pure" I did not necessarily mean the one that smells the most like the plant, but the one that smells the most refreshing and, i suppose, green.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  9. #9

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    Reading this thread prompted me to do an experiment. I put some vetiver essential oil on my hand, then sprayed Erto Vetiver EDC, Lorenzo Villoresi Vetiver EDT and Roccobarocco Vetiver on my arms for comparison. I didn't bother trying my other vetivers - Guerlains, Carven, Azzaro Pure vetiver, Lanvin, Racine and Malazia Uomo - as I knew that they weren't that close to the raw form.

    After a bit of sniffing I came to the conclusion that,
    Roccobarocco Vetiver is the closest to the real thing (but I recollect someone saying it's discontinued),

    Etro Vetiver is second closest (shame it's an EDC), and

    Lorenzo Villoresi Vetiver was a little behind Etro and came third (but it has the best staying power).

    If you want something green, then Guerlain's should be considered. If you want it green and very loud (though somewhat less vetivery), then Azzaro Pure vetiver ought be considered.

    I don't know why ozonic should suggest synthetic - lightning strikes in the area is my most common way of smelling ozone - and that's pretty natural.

    I have smelled the SMN and Malle ones, but can't say that I felt compelled to get them.
    Renato

  10. #10

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    Livejazz,

    I'm not familiar with the ones you mentioned, but what about Lutens Vetiver Oriental - this is a very beautiful Vetiver scent! Radix suggested the essential oil to get an idea what the real thing is all about, but if one does that, it can easily be diluted down to maybe 1%, and it's still strong!
    There is also a very nice one called Vetyver by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz that is very natural and real.

  11. #11

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help


    Vetiver is one of the most widely modulated notes in perfumery, and especially so since it's also one of the most versatile notes in terms of blending and fixing. There is, essentially, no such thing as the elusive "real" vetiver. This is because (1) there are many different kinds of vetiver oils depending on the provenance and the ambient conditions of the harvesting of the vetiver grass from which those oils are derived and (2) because vetiver is one of the most chemically modified oils in use today given its very complex aromatic structure. Vetiver oils are never used raw; they are taken apart and some of their various aromatic properties are then isolated and modified. (There is a huge market out there of modified elements of vetiver oil from which the perfumer has a wide choice.) Aromachemists pick and choose various elements of different vetiver oils and emphasize them through chemical process that begin with the initial refinement distillation process all the way through to separating out distinct chemical element of numerous vetiver oils and refining, concentrating, chemically modifying such elements further.

    My review of Lanvin Vetyver makes the same points in a different though related manner:

    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=184684

    scentemental

    Last edited by scentemental; 28th February 2007 at 05:32 PM.

  12. #12

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    to riff on scentemental's point, if you *are* interested in obtaining vetiver EO, I wouldn't just get something that's labelled "vetiver" from the health food store. rather, seek out a EO vendor who sells a variety of vetivers and can speak as to provenance, age, variety, etc. I know naturesgift.com usually have a few in stock, and they give great service, and are true EO enthusiasts/conoisseurs.
    baald

    Buy my extra scents - mainly niche - over 50 items (tiny bottles)

  13. #13

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    Quote Originally Posted by baald
    to riff on scentemental's point, if you *are* interested in obtaining vetiver EO, I wouldn't just get something that's labelled "vetiver" from the health food store. rather, seek out a EO vendor who sells a variety of vetivers and can speak as to provenance, age, variety, etc. I know naturesgift.com usually have a few in stock, and they give great service, and are true EO enthusiasts/conoisseurs.
    Excellent suggestion baald.




  14. #14

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    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz
    ... I've come to the conclusion that Vettiveru is one of the "real" smelling vetivers...
    Which of these a) lasts well and b) has the most pleasant, refreshing, and "pure" take on vetiver, a la Vettiveru? Other suggestions are welcome as well.

    Thanks!
    Not really true. Vettiveru is mixed up with quite a few other notes. I just wore this two days ago, and I find it among the most smoky of vetiver scents, in addition to its large dose of citrus. Scentemental's message above is an excellent, educational addition to this thread, as are everyone else's impressions and experiences (Thanks, Renato, for your on-the-fly comparison! I now have to track down the Rocco Vetiver).

    I would nominate the following as among the most unadorned vetiver scents (i.e., simplest, purist, etc.) available that also happen to last a good while on my skin

    L'Artisan Vetiver
    Etro Vetiver
    Floris Vetiver
    Lorenzo Villoresi Vetiver
    MPG Route du Vetiver
    Guerlain's new Vetiver Extreme
    and Malle's Vetiver Extraordindaire (which is the most blended of these)

    The list is in approximate order to my own impressions of these scents with respect to your questions. Have fun!

    Jeff

  15. #15

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    I guess there are some essential oils which don't cost a lot to acquire - vetiver seems to be one of them. I realise that scent design and flow is important, but it would be somewhat impressive to know and experience a scent which boasts of a high concentration of expensive oils like iris (Iris Silver Mist) or tuberose (Carnal Flower) just to name a few.
    -

  16. #16

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus
    Based on recommendations from men I always trusted I am still trying to obtain (at least sample) Adolfo Dominguez' Vetiver Hombre (Madrid design house). According to some reviews it might be similar to Malle's VE. In his review of VH, Castorpollux' compares it with Guerlain's Vetiver (I am talking of their old and new versions which I own). That seems to justify another vetiver in ones wardrobe.

    Malle's VE lasts well on me and is my current best! Yet another one, Sel du Vetiver by TDC doesn't last long at all (it's top in other respects but I only judge from a sample)! Unfortunately, I cannot also refer to Vettiveru as I do not know it.
    Narcus if you want to try Adolfo Dominguez' vetiver try this site www.dutyfreeperfume.co.uk i got a 120ml edt for £10 a while back i'm not sure if they have any left if not email me your address and i'll send you some to try imo it's a bit like the creed old vetiver slightly soapy rather than the bone dry villoresi style which is my favourite vetiver to date the villoresi that is.

  17. #17

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    Quote Originally Posted by wicozani
    I would nominate the following as among the most unadorned vetiver scents (i.e., simplest, purist, etc.) available that also happen to last a good while on my skin

    L'Artisan Vetiver
    Etro Vetiver
    Floris Vetiver
    Lorenzo Villoresi Vetiver
    MPG Route du Vetiver
    Guerlain's new Vetiver Extreme
    and Malle's Vetiver Extraordindaire (which is the most blended of these)
    I always thought Vetiver Extreme was like a more citrusy version of the original. Is it also more, um, vetivery?

    Overall, I'm coming to the conclusion that I just need to empty my bank account on some samples. I was hoping to narrow my to 2 or 3 vetivers, but as usual that isn't going to happen.

    By total vetiver experience is limited to Guerlain (Good but perhaps a little much nutmeg...i'm sensitive to nutmeg), CdG Vettiveru (Great, but short lasting. I think of a more refined and less citrussy Azzaro Pure Vetiver), and of course the aftermentioned Azzaro, which was good but nearly vetiverless, despite the name.

    Basically I just wanted to expand my horizons and get a better feel for the vetiver note, which I enjoy....I guess I'm going about this the wrong way! I need to try as many as possible!!
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  18. #18

    wicozani's Avatar
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    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz
    I always thought Vetiver Extreme was like a more citrusy version of the original. Is it also more, um, vetivery?
    "Always thought"? Maybe I'm the one late to the game, but as far as I know Guerlain's Vetiver Extreme was just released in the U.S. in the past few weeks. I just saw it in real life and tried it for the first time a few days ago. You can read my impressions here: http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=193188. I don't believe anyone else has reviewed this yet.

    Yes, I can appreciate a targeted approach employing near-surgical precision. Sadly, that hasn't worked for me in helping me to experience scents. I love sampling everything and anything, at least once. Variety is truly the spice of life.

    Jeff
    Last edited by wicozani; 28th February 2007 at 07:31 PM.

  19. #19

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    ^ sorry, I was thinking of Vetiver Sport, which has been commented on a bit more around here. My mistake.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  20. #20

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    My nose differs a little.

    Vetiver Extraordinaire seems to be a most honest earthy vetiver. Longevity is scary good on me, I can still detect it 2 days & 2 showers later. I had the most unusual smell recollection when I first smelled VE: A childhood friend lived in a house with an indoor pool. It was always immaculately clean, never over-chlorinated, and was surrounded by potted plants. First whiff took me back---into that room with the pool...humid, fresh. Weird---I guess that's the ozonics?. Drydown for me removed some of the surrounding scents and revealed a purer vetiver.

    Route De Vetiver (my favorite so far) impresses me as a great vetiver surrounded by a perfect blend of supporting notes. It's more "vetiver plus"...still earthy, but perhaps not as heavily weighted in vetiver to me(only compared to VE.) But, boy is it ever good.

    To put this in some context, Guerlain's Vetiver is very green and "bright"----but for me, I still can't get past the sharp soapy note. I'll try again in a few months.

    TDC-Sel de Vetiver and Nicolai-Vetyver are on deck.

  21. #21

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    What about Creed Vetiver '48? I don't know exactly how "real" it is, but at least I think it's a "purer" Vetiver than Creed "Original Vetiver". The characteristic refreshing Vetiver-sharpness at the beginning, but with a wonderfully smooth drydown! Quite excellent!

  22. #22

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    I have some pure vetiver oil that I bought at a place in Los Angles for $13 called Blunda Aromatics and the closest I've smelled to it are the Annick Goutal and Etro Vetivers.

    The Goutal has a slight marine component and the Etro has a dirt/earth component, but there's no question that vetiver is dominant and obvious.

    The scent grows richer, he knows he must be near
    He finds a long passageway lit by chandelier
    Each step he takes, the perfumes change
    From familiar fragrance to flavours strange
    A magnificent chamber meets his eye

  23. #23

    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz
    . . . Basically I just wanted to expand my horizons and get a better feel for the vetiver note, which I enjoy....I guess I'm going about this the wrong way! I need to try as many as possible!!
    Yes, absolutely, and with that in mind, here's a list of vetiver fragrances I'd recommend you get around to trying when you get the chance:

    1.Adolofo Dominguez Vetiver Hombre
    2.Azzaro Pure Vetiver
    3.Carlo Corinto Vetyver
    4.Carolina Herrera Herrera for Men Sensual Vetiver
    5.Compagnia Delle Indie Vetyver
    6.Creed Original Vetiver EDP
    7.Creed Vetiver (1948)
    8.Floris Vetiver
    9.Guerlain Vetiver EDC (vintage formulation)
    10. Guerlain Vetiver EDT (vintage formulation)
    11. Hermès Hermèssence Vétiver Tonka
    12. KenzoAir
    13. Lanvin Vetyver
    14. Le Labo Vetiver 46
    15.L’Occitane Vétyver (vintage)
    16.Lolita Lempicka au Masculin
    17.Loewe Pour Homme
    18.Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Racine
    19.Mazzolari Vetiver
    20.Parfums de Nicolaï Vetyver
    21.The Different Company Sel de Vétiver

    scentemental





  24. #24
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    Default Re: The "Real" Vetivers...need some help

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp
    I guess there are some essential oils which don't cost a lot to acquire - vetiver seems to be one of them. I realise that scent design and flow is important, but it would be somewhat impressive to know and experience a scent which boasts of a high concentration of expensive oils like iris (Iris Silver Mist) or tuberose (Carnal Flower) just to name a few.
    acording to one of the fragrance makers blogs Vetiver practically distills it self compared to Iris.

    http://ayalasmellyblog.blogspot.com/...i-vetiver.html

    the link is worth looking at just to see a picture of vetiver root.

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