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  1. #1

    Default Frederic Malle.. I want to expand

    Musc Rav. and Vetiver Extror. are 2 names in my personal top 5 of faves. I want to enjoy more treasures from the house of Malle, but I'm afraid nothing else will live up to these two.

    I have sample of:

    * Bigarade Concentree (not the earth shattering citrus I'd pine for but still quite good)
    * L'Eau d'Hiver (not a masterpiece, though quite good)
    * En Passant (distinct and moody. Strange it does not have linden in its components although it smacks of it!)
    * Une Fleur de Cassie (same as in No. 2 above)
    * Angeliques sous la Pluie (quite good but so fleeting)
    * Eau de Theresa (sp?) (I cannot trace the leather note that everybody's talking about on other scent forums! I love this one, nevertheless, and find it very long-lasting)
    * Noir Epices (a revamped Azzaro PH, which I can't stand)

    Are the others in the same league of Musc Rav. and VE?


  2. #2

    Default Re: Frederic Malle.. I want to expand

    Musc Ravageur, Vetiver Extraordinaire, Cologne Bigarade and Bigarade Concentrée are the best IMO.

    Iris Poudre, Noir Epices and Angéliques sous la pluie are also quite good.

    L'eau d'Hiver is too fleeting, Une fleur de Cassie and Lys Mediterranée are strange to me.
    En Passant, Le Parfum de Therese, Une Rose and Lipstick Rose are quite on the feminine side.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Frederic Malle.. I want to expand

    Have you tried Iris Poudre
    The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.
    -- Marcel Proust

  4. #4

    Default Re: Frederic Malle.. I want to expand

    The only Malles I've had a chance to sample are Cologne Bigarade, Bigarade Concentrée, Eau d'Hiver and En Passant. The others I don't know at all.

    Of all of the ones I've tried, Bigarade Concentrée is my favourite. It's among my top three fragrances ever, I think. (To me, it's what Eau d'Orange Verte tries and fails to be - an interesting, fresh green-and-citrus combination. No matter how hard I tried to like Eau d'Orange Verte, it strikes me as acrid, and just too weird.) I slightly prefer the Concentrée version over the Cologne Bigarade, as the dry orange note is stronger in the Concentrée version. I find it very long-lived, especially for a citrus fragrance. Bigarade Concentrée is arguably weird in a different way (Seville orange, roses, cardamom, peppercorns and hay?), but it's a weirdness that appeals to me, I guess.

    I don't find Eau d'Hiver fleeting. It lingers on me, but it feels cloyingly sweet (especially when compared to the brisk dry brightness of Bigarade Concentrée). I've decided will try anything created by Jean-Claude Ellena at least once, on the strength of my admiration for Bigarade Concentrée. Eau d'Hiver doesn't seem especially wintry to me, but it's definitely too heavy for me in the summer. I'd describe it as a gourmand fragrance that's not edible, if that's not too much an oxymoron.

    En Passant is truly a beautiful, unusual smell. I like it a lot,*and though it may not be the "girliest" entry in Malle's Editions de parfums, it's probably not everyone's idea of a unisex fragrance, either. It's definitely a sweet warm floral, but it has a faintly mineral undertone that I don't completely understand. Chandler Burr has described it as "pastry, flowers, and street, all at once" and, against all apparent likelihood, he's bang on. I think a confident man can pull this off. I also think Olivia Giacobetti likes odd, ephemeral combinations of smells. Certainly her Dzing! could be a text-book example of olfactory oddity. I mean, who gets out of bed in the morning and thinks "You know, I think today is a good day to smell like the circus!"?

    My reviews of Bigarade and En Passant are listed under those entries in the Basenotes directory, if you feel like listening to me wax rhapsodic some more.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Frederic Malle.. I want to expand

    Well, Fleur de Cassie FM is VERY GOOD fragrance!!!

    Killer, you should wait till new FM leather fragrance will be launched - they announce it this year... It will be sweet leathery frag... Don`t know its name yet...

    If you are fan of tuberose - it is launched already as Carnal Flowers of Dominique Ropion. Tuberose, coconut and camphore...
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  6. #6

    Default Re: Frederic Malle.. I want to expand

    If you are in the mood for green-floral masculine/unisex scents, give Iris Poudre a try.
    Notice: very powdery in the drydown!

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