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  1. #1
    scenteur7's Avatar
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    Default REVIEW: Miller Harris launches 2 NEW Scents

    The world of Miller Harris is expanding. With the opening of MH boutiques in Saks Fifth Avenue shops (similar to the approach taken by Jo Malone, another clever Brit), Miller Harris also sees the launch of two new fragrances this year with CUIR D'ORANGER, a bewitching leather and orange blossom scent, and VETIVER BOURBON, a subtle, smooth, and velvety green vetiver scent. Miller Harris is also enjoying success with its range of scents exclusive to the London flagship and its bespoke service.

    I check the Miller Harris website every few months and was thrilled to find the addition of Jasmine Vert, Geranium Bourbon and Cuir d'Oranger as Nouvelle Edition scents. I was quite taken with one of the first of this line - Figue Amere - but as I think I have officially overdosed, and therfore "had it" with fig scents, I decided to pass it on.

    First, a word about Miller Harris scents in general: Love to smell them, don't find myself wearing them very often....this pretty much summarized my experience with the first 4 of Lynne Harris's scents. I have owned all 4 at one time or another in various formats - edp, edt, oil...and just never connected with any of them. Recently, I have come to understand and greatly appreciate Terre de Bois - I'm not sure what happened, but one day this scent just suddenly "clicked" for me. Then I received a bottle of Terre d'Iris, an "exclusive to the London flagship" and voila - I LOVE Miller Harris.

    Soooo, upon reading about the new Cuir d'Oranger I emailed the London store and asked about Terre d'Iris...after a couple of exchanges with Sarah, I then asked if they ever sent out samples. Within 2 weeks I received a personalized note and samples of Cuir d'Oranger, Vetiver Bourbon and Tangerine Vert. Yippee! ! ! !

    CUIR D'ORANGER

    Miller Harris writes: Cuir d'Oranger is about leather; rich and luxurious with top notes of orange oil Valencia, pettigrain Paraguay and shimmering orange flowers Tunisia, fused with jasmin Egypt and orris absolute resting on a rich base of leather with birch tar, Spanish ciste, oak moss and patchouli.

    This is the ULTIMATE Miller Harris scent and is at the top of my wishlist. If Rochas Lui was a hint of what could be done with orange blossom and patchouli, Miller Harris takes it a step further and gives us a scent a la Caron. This is Narcisse Noir without the sandalwood and replaced with a buttery leather note, woody birch and green patchouli.

    The scent opens with Tunisian orange blossoms, but "opening" is not quite accurate...the entire composition is present, sparkling and exotic. As the scent progresses, the hint of white jasmine petals can be detected, adding a radiant depth to the fragrance as it morphs from floral to leather, woods and grasses. The base is magic...and subtle....this is not primarily a leather scent, but as the name implies, a balance between leather and floral...the balance is constantly present as each of the base notes reveals itself, the watery freshness of the floral notes echo throughout. The oakmoss and birch add a nice earthy touch, calling to mind the drydown of Terre de Bois, especially when the patchouli arrives...albeit extremely subtlely.

    After about 45 minutes, the scent has softened and I'm left somewhere between Narcisse Noir and Blond Tabac, though let's face it, those are two masterpeices of perfumery, but if you could imagine their lovechild, Cuir d'Oranger is it!

    VETIVER BOURBON
    Miller Harris writes: Vetiver Bourbon is about capturing the true spirit of this extremely evocative, and powerful wood. The finest quality vetiver has been sourced from the Indian Ocean island of Réunion. Dominant top notes of vetiver set the tone, which is then gently fused with oakmoss, patchouli and amber to create a truly sensual experience.

    Quick note: I'm beginning to recognize a common theme in MH scents - patchouli and oakmoss get used quite a bit in those basenotes.

    I'm not really a vetiver fan - it's either too grassy, too green, too one-dimensional, too earthy....too, I don't know - Vetiver-ish? I have always had a fondness for Carolina Herrera's clever idea to highlight the note in her men's scent with Sensual Vetiver, and I've even worn the old war horse, Guerlain Vetiver...My current favorites are Lutens Vetiver Oriental, L'Artisan's darker, smoky Vetiver and L'Occitane Vetiver, none of which smell particularly vetiver-ish to me, though. And yes, recently, I've developed a fondness for Miller Harris Terre de Bois which is all about vetiver.

    So, it was with a little trepidation that I approached Vetiver Bourbon. This is a quiet scent. This is a simple scent. This is a vetiver scent. The first adjectives that came to mind were minty, green, and velvety. Somewhere between a stick of Wrigley's spearmint, and L'Artisan's Bois Farine comes VB - a minimalist composition of natural notes. It doesn't grab me the way CO grabbed me, and I'm afraid I cannot give this scent as much enthusiastic praise, because really, I am a leather and orange blossom fan. But I'll say this: It's thinner than Goutal, lighter than L'Artisan, simpler and fresher than Guerlain, mintier than L'Occitane...

    If I had a bottle, I'm not sure how often I would reach for it, but I think I will finish this sample and keep my eyes open for decants...

    Ok - after about an hour, I'm loving this - perhaps my nose was taken over by my Cuir d'Oranger experience, but the Vetiver Bourbon is smelling a lot like the L'Occitane Vetiver minus the sandalwood accents...It still has the green edge to it, but is now warmer and woodier! (is that even a word?)

    Overall, it's been a great morning for Miller Harris, higher up on the right arm shines Tangerine Vert....the gloriously citrus charged answer to typical eau de colognes, ever-so-slightly reminiscent of Eau de Guerlain and more of a reach, Cologne Mugler...With each new offering, I find myself more and more a Miller Harris devotee, some to wear, some to simply admire.

    Both Cuir d'Oranger and Vetiver Bourbon are available from Miller Harris:
    14 Needham Road
    London
    W11 2RP
    +44 (0)20 7221 1545
    www.millerharris.com
    ...and will be available stateside at Saks in 2006

  2. #2

    Default Re: REVIEW: Miller Harris launches 2 NEW Scents

    I've been rather curious about Cuir d'Orangier... I'm wondering how it will compare to Knize Ten, Pierre Cardin Centaure Cuir Fougere (in particular), and Royal English Leather.

    As for her frags in general, I was non-plussed with Terre de Bois, but Feuilles de Tabac is downright excellent. I should use up my tester!
    K
    [FONT=Book Antiqua]MisterK / Vicomte de K / K[/FONT]
    [FONT=Book Antiqua]Ephemeral Top 5: YSL PH HC, Worth PH, Equipage, Monsieur Rochas HC, Acqua di Gio[/FONT]

  3. #3

    Default Re: REVIEW: Miller Harris launches 2 NEW Scents

    Great review scenteur7, looking forward to Tangerine Vert. Would you say it is weak Eau Colongney (Eau De Guerlain ish) in strength? I was hoping something that is strong and lasts ...
    The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.
    -- Marcel Proust

  4. #4
    scenteur7's Avatar
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    Default Re: REVIEW: Miller Harris launches 2 NEW Scents

    Cuir d'Oranger is more of a leather scent along the lines of Creed's Royal English Leather - slightly sweet and slightly buttery....this is not sueded leather or dark smoky leather, and not primarily a leather scent, but more of a balance between the orange blossom and the leather while highlighting the birch and moss in the base...

    Tangerine Vert starts off well with a great blast, but for lasting power, I prefer Crown Imperial, very similar to my nose, however, in the opening of TV, there is a sweetness akin to Mugler's cologne, but that disappears as the scent settles....there is also something slightly mossy that reminded me of Eau de Guerlain (not Guerlain Imperiale), and that lingers a bit for me. After an hour, the scent leaves a close to the skin reminder of the opening, supported by a light musk note. I would say it has decent lasting power, but not great...

    marlen

  5. #5

    Default Re: REVIEW: Miller Harris launches 2 NEW Scents

    Beautiful reviews, Marlen, thanks so much.

    My only experience with this house is a decant of Feuilles de Tabac, which I find very nice but somewhat disappointing in the longetivity department.

    Thanks for the link to their site as well....looks like a few more bottles may be in the mail for me shortly! Damn you! lol!

  6. #6
    cedriceccentric's Avatar
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    Default Re: REVIEW: Miller Harris launches 2 NEW Scents

    Great reviews Scenteur7,

    Miller Harris has come a long way since the introduction of her first 3 scents. Feuilles de Tabac is still on my wish list.

    PS: Could it be possible that Lyn Harris is pregnant at the moment? I passed by the window of her Notting Hill shop 4 weeks ago. There was a pregnant lady behind the counter. I was almost sure the lady was Lyn Harris in person. Though her hair was a bit longer than in the photographes I saw of her.

  7. #7

    Default Re: REVIEW: Miller Harris launches 2 NEW Scents

    OMG! The description got me drooling already!

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