[red]Many, many excellent discriminations on the differences between and qualities of *Habit Rouge EDC* and EDT Vicomte de K. Your posts are always exceedingly helpful precisely because of your carefully thoughout discriminations. I always appreciate your sharing them with us.[/red]
I am going to repost my review of the *Habit Rouges* EDC, EDT, EDP, and Légère (a.k.a. *Habit Rouge Light*) for those particularly interested to know some more about the EDP and Légère versions and how they compare and contrast with the EDC and the EDT versions. The review that follows was originally posted on the interim board when Basenotes was down in April and May of this year. The review now seems lost, so I beg everyones indulgence to post it again.
[blue]*A comparative review of *Habit Rouge* EDC, EDT, EDP, and Légère (Light)*
The EDC is the original formulation which tends to emphasize the citrus spice accord more throughout the entire drydown. It's definitely the most sophisticated and the most complex of the four. The animalic/vanillic accord is present but never brazenly like the EDT. The EDT on the other hand, even more so than the EDP, emphasizes the animalic/vanillic accord from the outset. It’s bold and makes no apologies for being so. If the EDC is the Habit Rouge, then the EDT is the Habit Rouge with the tie loosened and the shirt open. There is a brief nod to the EDC version in its hesperidic opening, and there is also a far less complex and persistent interplay of the spices with the hesperidic and animalic/vanillic accord. It is, however, the most potent form of the animalic/vanillic accord and, if your nose thinks so, a beautiful and beguiling one at that.
The EDP, interestingly enough, opens with stronger, but smoother hesperidic/neroli dominated top and middle notes and paradoxically with a decidedly more muted animalic/vanillic accord; one could even say that the signature *Habit Rouge* animalic/vanillic accord is barely perceptible until well into the drydown when the agarwood makes a show and blends with it to the point where its presence is now almost liminal. One finds oneself catching whispers of it as the agarwood dominates the final drydown in a very cozy and yielding way and acts as a wonderful basenote substitute for the vanilla predominant drydown of the EDT. If you’re looking for a stronger version of the EDT—and why anyone would want one is beyond me—you won’t find it here. The EDP is its own animal, with less animal in it and not more. It is, however, EDP strength, lasting at least 24 hrs on the wearer, at least on this wearer. If you like the agarwood note in YSL *M7*, you’ll love it in *Habit Rouge EDP*; its smoother, less medicinal, and better blended.
I just got my bottle of the *Habit Rouge Light*, so I've only had a chance to wear it once so far, but I will be retesting it regularly in the next week or two. For now, I'll note that the light version has a very subdued animalic/vanillic accord throughout with a prominent but very clean hersperidic top and middle note accord underpinned by a very sophisticated neroli note. In this sense the Light version is more of a reworking of the EDP than it is of the EDT. The neroli note in both the EDP and Light versions is never sharp, prickly, and unsettling as it is in say *Rochas Lui*. This neroli note is the one which makes people say *Rochas Lui* smells like *Habit Rouge*. However, I find the neroli note in *Rochas Lui* taxing; to my nose it’s an unsuccessful use of aroma chemicals. The benchmark for a more sophisticated aroma-chemical neroli note is, of course, Thierry Mugler's *Cologne*, and now, it seems, *Habit Rouge EDP* and *Habit Rouge Light*. As noted before, throughout the drydown of the Light version, the animalic/vanillic accord is a reticent presence, barely perceptible except for those who look for it. It's there, but on a much more liminal level than the EDP or the EDC, whereas, it’s a main feature in the EDT drydown. On the whole, the Light version is a very successful modulation of the EDP, as are all the various incarnations of the *Habit Rouge* line. This is quite a remarkable feat when one thinks of it. But I must caution, it is very easy to overlook the indivduality of each one of these incarnations if one compares them rashly to what one is used to. If anyone of these were created without the others exisiting, many of us would be raving about them. It's hard to see things afresh, but all of the various *Habit Rouges* are sui generis, a tribute to the original, inimitable EDC, which, when all is said and done, remains my favorite--not that the others are very far behind. Do I feel that owning four different version of *Habit Rouge* is the definition of redundancy? No. Everytime I wear them, I am reminded that reinvention can be recreation, and I myself find much recreation in wearing these scents whenever the particular mood for one over the other finds me amenable.
I hope all this helps to some extent.
P.S. [red]Interestingly, the EDC formulation remains unchanged from its inception. I have this on good authority, the people from Guerlain themselves, or at least the Guerlain website’s customer relations person, a charming women by the name of Isabelle Rousseau, who was quite happy to talk with me at length with regard to *Habit Rouge*, and quite possibly quite amused by my passion with regard to *Habit Rouge*.[/red]