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  1. #1

    Default News: Nautica from Unilever to Coty.


    Coty Sets Sail With Nautica License
    By Pete Born with contributions by Julie Naughton.

    NEW YORK ų Coty Inc. has acquired the global beauty license of Nautica Apparel Inc. and plans to launch a new men‚s fragrance next spring, while continuing the brand‚s three existing fragrances.

    Bernd Beetz, chief executive officer of Coty Inc., said the deal was made with the intention of further bolstering one of the three marketing pillars of Coty‚s Lancaster division‚s prestige business. The first pillar consists of celebrity fragrances, led by Jennifer Lopez and joined by Baby Phat and recently Sarah Jessica Parker. The second pillar is the designer group, consisting of Marc Jacobs, Jil Sander, Vivienne Westwood, Joop, Kenneth Cole and Nikos.

    The third pillar is composed of lifestyle brands, like Davidoff, Lancaster and Chopard, which is where Nautica will be grouped. Beetz said he was attracted to Nautica because the apparel brand „captures the consumer‚s desire for an energetic lifestyle.š

    Beetz also said he was drawn to the brand because of its global appeal as well as its outdoor profile.

    Coty is starting fresh with Nautica after the fashion house‚s former license with Unilever expired. Nautica, a division of VF Corp., had a relationship with Unilever since 1998. Three Nautica fragrance brands remain on the market: Nautica Classic for men and women, Latitude Longitude and Nautica Competition.

    Financial details were not disclosed. However, industry sources estimate Nautica‚s fragrance business at $45 million in retail sales for the U.S. and $50 million retail in total global volume. Since the license had expired, sources speculate that it cost Coty little to make the deal, except for perhaps spending several million dollars on inventory.

    Beetz noted that the Nautica fragrance business is strong in the U.S. with an „echoš in Europe and Asia.

    Denise V. Seegal, president and ceo of Nautica Enterprises Inc., said she is excited to be in partnership with a company that has such „an incredibly talented executive teamš that has exhibited such insight into the „consumer‚s needs and aspirations.š

    „Coty‚s momentum over the last couple years has been quite extraordinary,š said Seegal. „They have done a wonderful job of positioning different brands across the marketplace.š

    Despite industry speculation that Nautica‚s unique lifestyle position in fashion might allow Lancaster to create a new model that straddles distribution layers within the department store market, Seegal absolutely ruled out any flirtation with „masstigeš marketing. „The Nautica brand has been positioned across all product categories in the better status market. The positioning is in the better department store channel.š

    Seegal noted that many of her competitors have dipped into the mass market but that usually is due to „the life cycleš of the brands.

    In a statement, Seegal added, „Coty is a global leader with a stellar track record of launching and maintaining very successful branded fragrances. We feel confident that they are the right strategic partner for Nautica. As we continue to extend the Nautica lifestyle brand around the world, Coty‚s global reach and understanding of international markets is very important to the success of our own long-term global growth strategy.š

    For his part, Beetz said in a statement, „Nautica embodies many of the qualities that we seek as a company: Momentum that allows us to bring products to market faster; creativity that matches our consumers‚ desire for expressions of their own freedom, and a determination to take our ideas further and further for success.š

    Although Seegal indicated that she was drawn to Coty because of its „good fit,š Unilever implied that the brand no longer matched its interests. „We elected not to renew the Nautica license,š said Laura Klauberg, senior vice president of marketing for Unilever Cosmetics International, on Thursday. „We informed Nautica a few months ago that we had made that decision, primarily because we are looking to develop our fragrance portfolio with brands that have a broader global reach. Nautica has appeal in the North American market but it has limited appeal globally. We had a very successful 2004, so we believe that this strategy is really working.š

    Klauberg also firmly denied that Unilever is looking to divest its other prestige fragrance brands, which include Vera Wang and Calvin Klein. „We are not looking to sell any of our other brands at this time,š she said. However, the company also divested the Valentino beauty license in 2003 to Procter & Gamble.

  2. #2

    Default Re: News: Nautica from Unilever to Coty.

    Unilever is horrible with fragrance so is P&G, the quality lacks.

    Think this is a good thing for Nautica to be under the Coty/Lacaster umbrella.

    Lets see what happens. I always thought and I know I am not wrong but the original Nautica in the sale boat bottle is under the EA Fragrances (elizabeth arden). I believe French Fragrances FFI had right to this scent. ???

  3. #3

    Default Re: News: Nautica from Unilever to Coty.

    The first Nautica Woman was first under Revlon prestige fragrances.
    Then came, as you said, EA which was then a Unilever company. Later EA was sold and Unilever kept the Nautica liscence, that's when they launched Latitude. and the revamped Competion.

  4. #4

    Default Re: News: Nautica from Unilever to Coty.

    i knew something was up when unilever pulled all their stock from my store in november for no apparent reason.  sales were good for this brand with younger guys, especially with nautica competition, which made huge gains in market share over the last few years.

    unilever should bow out of the fragrance business. they are currently running calvin klein into the ground.  they just launched their fifth eternity for women fragrance with eternity moment, and have two more eternity spinoffs planned for this year.  the men's side is just as bad, with obsession night and eternity summer on the way.  there is no creativity here.  it's just a desperate attempt to cash in on the loyal customer base calvin developed in the eighties and nineties.  it's such a shame.  

  5. #5

    Default Re: News: Nautica from Unilever to Coty.

    I remember part of the Nautica line in the USA was original under Princess Borghese Cosmetics/Halson it was then bought by Paul Sebastion Inc. Sebastion was bought by FFI (french fragrances) some how this company obtain rights to names? For FFI was marketing Wings Giorgio Beverly Hills were Red & Original is sold under P&G, they also market Nautica original in the blue sail boat bottle which Latitude and Competition are sold under Unilever.

    I never understood how a company could split rights to their name... ???

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