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  1. #1

    Default Serge Lutens Test Results

    It's been 2 weeks since my samples arrived, and I've spent a lot of time wearing them around. ╩Since many of the guys here at Basenotes have limited experience with this line of fragrances, I've tried to compare them to some more readily available fragrances that many more people may have experienced. ╩Anyway, ╩here's what I've found:

    Chene: ╩Woody, and very dry. ╩There is a definite celery-seed odor in the opening, which eventually turned into a combination of pine-needles and mothballs (?). ╩This smoothed out into a very grassy, vetiver-like drydown, but by the end of the day it was pretty weak.

    Cuir Mauresque: ╩VERY syruppy opening. ╩It was more than "heady"...more like "humid" smelling. ╩There is a lot of orange-spice coming through for the first half of the day before evening out into a comfortable, warm leather. ╩Very nice, but the drydown wasn't very original. ╩Very much like Creed's Royal English Leather at the finish.

    Fumerie Turque: ╩Perhaps my favorite of the lot. ╩This one had the best opening, complete with a spicy smokiness which lasted throughout the day. ╩The point at which this seemed most "manly-smelling" was actually near the beginning. ╩As the day wore on, this one started to resemble Amouage Gold: the same dry rose fragrance reared up out of nowhere, and was a refreshing surprise, especially since it didn't detract from the masculinity that this fragrance seemed to exude. ╩By the evening, there was a very definite resemblance to Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin.

    Arabie: ╩At first this seemed like a cross between Mechant Loup and LV Spezie. ╩Almost a gourmand fragrance, it has a very rich, spicy, plum-pudding opening. ╩It moved into potpourri for most of the day, but lightened and smoothed out to a Jaipur EDP finish. ╩Seems like a great Holiday fragrance, but not well-suited for the office.

    Ambre Sultan: Perhaps the most Amber-centered fragrance I've ever worn. ╩Luckily, it was only 16 degrees fahrenheit when I wore this because it is VERY warm. ╩So much so that I didn't even feel cold when I was outside! ╩I imagine it would be chokingly so on a warm day. ╩Pleasant, but not the most original scent.

    Vetiver Oriental: ╩Vetiver Extraordinaire has been my favorite vetiver-based fragrance for years...until now. ╩SL's version is much woodier and spicier in my opinion, and it takes that bitter edge off in such a way that even my wife (who dislikes almost every vetiver I own) actually complimented me on this one. ╩Perhaps this is because, despite this being touted as a vetiver-based fragrance, is really an oriental in green clothing! ╩Really a very pleasantly surprising fragrance, and might just be on my list of "must buy" fragrances.

    Muscs Koublai Khan: ╩How can something so strong look so much like plain tap water? ╩Upon application this one had a note that I couldn't quite identify. ╩Luckily, my wife (who used to work with fragrances for a living) hit it right on the nose: "Man-ass." ╩That said, it dropped off it's sharp edges and (if I may again refer to the Frederic Malle line) became very reminiscent of Musc Ravageur! ╩I assume that the very similar note here is what true musk smells like. ╩However, whereas Malle's Musc Ravageur seems smeared with vanilla by the end of the day, Koublai Khan replaces the vanilla with a warm sandalwood which holds up well into the next day. ╩Really a brilliant fragrance.

    La Myrrhe: ╩The only one that I didn't like at all. ╩I can't really picture a man wearing this, and although I like myrrh's bitter-sweet smokiness, this one just seemed too floral, and not in a heliotrope way. ╩This was more of a "frangipani and patchouli 'till you puke" floral. ╩Definitely not my thing.

    The bottom line is this: ╩Serge Lutens obviously skews towards more oriental fragrances, and this is where he really shines. ╩His liberal use of spices, woods, and musk are sure to make a statement wherever you wear them. ╩Being a huge Creed fan myself, I find the Serge Lutens offerings to be running an altogether different race. ╩With Creed you get "classy" and "refined." ╩With Serge Lutens you get "audacious" and "opulent." ╩These perfumers take similar pathes to vastly different destinations. ╩They both use VERY high-grade ingredients, and in the hands of true masters they really seem to communicate with the wearer. ╩

    Some of the Serge Lutens offerings definitely have a place in my arsenal, namely Fumerie Turque, Vetiver Oriental and Muscs Koublai Khan. ╩Unfortunately, Serge Lutens doesn't distribute two of these (FT and MKK) to America, and so I'm probably going to limit myself to decants of these. ╩The good news here is that I can't really see myself needing more than that as they aren't likely additions to my daily rotation anyway.

    At any rate, it was a very worthwhile experience, and I hope this review is useful to y'all!

    CJ

  2. #2

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    Thanks CJ for a great wrap up of these scents. FT sounds very intriguing to me! I love reading about the Arabic takes French perfumers make with these scents and hope I can smell them sometime!

    Sante.
    THE BEST OF 2009 to date Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumiere Noire Pour Homme, Cologne Pour Le Soir, Annick Goutal Mandragore Pourpre

    REDISCOVERING CLASSICS - AGAIN!:- , Guerlain Derby, L'Artisan Premier Figuier

  3. #3

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    I have a few more fragrances that you may enjoy.

    Douce Amere ÷ Since you like the oriental in Vetiver Oriental, I suggest this oriental fragrance that is one of the best. Very aromatic opening with anise and cinnamon, with clean and light flowers, and a vanilla/musk/cedar drydown. This is the oriental fragrance that many aspire to, but only few attain. Sweeter and more unisex than VO.

    Bois Sepia ÷ my favorite ŃBoisń. Opens with tobacco and cypress to create a calming and uplifting feeling. Very masculine. Gourmand base of patchouli and sandalwood.

    Daim Blond ÷ Starts off a bit sweet, and progresses to a supple, creamy, white suede. Beautiful!

    Miel de Bois ÷ I havenÔt tested this new one to be released in March, but for me, it is an absolutely must try!



  4. #4

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    Loved your description of VÄtiver Oriental: "an oriental in green clothing"! ;D Must retry it...
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darŘber muss man schreiben."

  5. #5

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    I, too, love Vetiver Oriental (and Douce Amere). It is so unlike any other vetiver fragrance I own. I think the best way to describe the difference is that it is "indoor," while all other vetiver fragrances are "outdoor." The strong, oriental, spicy, boozy notes are unlike any of it's vetiver peers. I think I'll have to wear it tomorrow.

    I also get a strange, play-doh/crayon note from VO. There is something very similar in Gucci PH.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    I've tried Vetiver Oriental and I love it, its on my want list. I own Douce Amere and Ambre Sultan and they are both great. Santal Blanc is another one I really want.
    Santal Mysore I'm dying to try.
    Oriscent, AgarAura Pure Ouds, Creed, LIDGE, Patou Pour Homme, tons of niche and rare stuff for sale!
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/253...er-100-items!!

  7. #7

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    Muscs KoublaĽ Khan=man-ass!!! ;D

    Brilliant description. A hardcore musk. I love it.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    CJ you can buy Vetiver Oriental in New York at the Aedes boutique (Barneys NY too) or online if you 're not in NYC.

    http://www.aedes.com/product.php?product_id=1362


    Muscs Koublai Khan is the most sexual scent I ever smelled, Ambre Sultan has also something very sexual but more on the feminine side.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    To my nose, the SL scents are so much of a muchness. Create a successful scent and then see how many similar variations can be made.

    My most recent sampling was Daim Blond, I have decided to change it's name to Lame Blond. It made me feel physically sick when I smelt it.

    Barry
    Fine fragrance is alive; it breathes, unfolds and unravels with each passing hour....

    Roja Dove

  10. #10

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    I've been wearing a spritz of Vetiver Oriental for about an hour now and I just do not like it at all....to me it smells jsut like Santal Noble by MPG
    :'(

  11. #11

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    Quote Originally Posted by rjrober22
    I've been wearing a spritz of Vetiver Oriental for about an hour now and I just do not like it at all....to me it smells jsut like Santal Noble by MPG
    :'(
    If it smells anything like Santal Noble it must be wonderful! ;D
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darŘber muss man schreiben."

  12. #12

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results


    HAHA!
    I guess it's to each his/her own.
    it's just too much for me.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    Whaoow !

    With a delay of three years and a half I discovered these fine reviews, grace to afraafra copying them as an introduction to his current poll. He couldn't have chosen a better summary! I know all of these fragrances now, and have lived with a few for more than three years also. And of course I read many reviews since. These are among the best. You have characterized their very essence beautifully. As you are still posting from time to time, I thought I add my belated Thank You! Good to know that some senior members are still with us!

    Quote Originally Posted by CJ View Post

    January 26, 2005


    It's been 2 weeks since my samples arrived, and I've spent a lot of time wearing them around. ╩Since many of the guys here at Basenotes have limited experience with this line of fragrances, I've tried to compare them to some more readily available fragrances that many more people may have experienced. ╩Anyway, ╩here's what I've found:

    Chene: ╩Woody, and very dry. ╩There is a definite celery-seed odor in the opening, which eventually turned into a combination of pine-needles and mothballs (?). ╩This smoothed out into a very grassy, vetiver-like drydown, but by the end of the day it was pretty weak.

    Cuir Mauresque: ╩VERY syruppy opening. ╩It was more than "heady"...more like "humid" smelling. ╩There is a lot of orange-spice coming through for the first half of the day before evening out into a comfortable, warm leather. ╩Very nice, but the drydown wasn't very original. ╩Very much like Creed's Royal English Leather at the finish.

    Fumerie Turque: ╩Perhaps my favorite of the lot. ╩This one had the best opening, complete with a spicy smokiness which lasted throughout the day. ╩The point at which this seemed most "manly-smelling" was actually near the beginning. ╩As the day wore on, this one started to resemble Amouage Gold: the same dry rose fragrance reared up out of nowhere, and was a refreshing surprise, especially since it didn't detract from the masculinity that this fragrance seemed to exude. ╩By the evening, there was a very definite resemblance to Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin.

    Arabie: ╩At first this seemed like a cross between Mechant Loup and LV Spezie. ╩Almost a gourmand fragrance, it has a very rich, spicy, plum-pudding opening. ╩It moved into potpourri for most of the day, but lightened and smoothed out to a Jaipur EDP finish. ╩Seems like a great Holiday fragrance, but not well-suited for the office.

    Ambre Sultan: Perhaps the most Amber-centered fragrance I've ever worn. ╩Luckily, it was only 16 degrees fahrenheit when I wore this because it is VERY warm. ╩So much so that I didn't even feel cold when I was outside! ╩I imagine it would be chokingly so on a warm day. ╩Pleasant, but not the most original scent.

    Vetiver Oriental: ╩Vetiver Extraordinaire has been my favorite vetiver-based fragrance for years...until now. ╩SL's version is much woodier and spicier in my opinion, and it takes that bitter edge off in such a way that even my wife (who dislikes almost every vetiver I own) actually complimented me on this one. ╩Perhaps this is because, despite this being touted as a vetiver-based fragrance, is really an oriental in green clothing! ╩Really a very pleasantly surprising fragrance, and might just be on my list of "must buy" fragrances.

    Muscs Koublai Khan: ╩How can something so strong look so much like plain tap water? ╩Upon application this one had a note that I couldn't quite identify. ╩Luckily, my wife (who used to work with fragrances for a living) hit it right on the nose: "Man-ass." ╩That said, it dropped off it's sharp edges and (if I may again refer to the Frederic Malle line) became very reminiscent of Musc Ravageur! ╩I assume that the very similar note here is what true musk smells like. ╩However, whereas Malle's Musc Ravageur seems smeared with vanilla by the end of the day, Koublai Khan replaces the vanilla with a warm sandalwood which holds up well into the next day. ╩Really a brilliant fragrance.

    La Myrrhe: ╩The only one that I didn't like at all. ╩I can't really picture a man wearing this, and although I like myrrh's bitter-sweet smokiness, this one just seemed too floral, and not in a heliotrope way. ╩This was more of a "frangipani and patchouli 'till you puke" floral. ╩Definitely not my thing.

    The bottom line is this: ╩Serge Lutens obviously skews towards more oriental fragrances, and this is where he really shines. ╩His liberal use of spices, woods, and musk are sure to make a statement wherever you wear them. ╩Being a huge Creed fan myself, I find the Serge Lutens offerings to be running an altogether different race. ╩With Creed you get "classy" and "refined." ╩With Serge Lutens you get "audacious" and "opulent." ╩These perfumers take similar pathes to vastly different destinations. ╩They both use VERY high-grade ingredients, and in the hands of true masters they really seem to communicate with the wearer. ╩

    Some of the Serge Lutens offerings definitely have a place in my arsenal, namely Fumerie Turque, Vetiver Oriental and Muscs Koublai Khan. ╩Unfortunately, Serge Lutens doesn't distribute two of these (FT and MKK) to America, and so I'm probably going to limit myself to decants of these. ╩The good news here is that I can't really see myself needing more than that as they aren't likely additions to my daily rotation anyway.

    At any rate, it was a very worthwhile experience, and I hope this review is useful to y'all!

    CJ
    Last edited by narcus; 24th July 2008 at 09:59 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi Ŕ un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    Quote Originally Posted by CJ View Post
    The bottom line is this: ╩Serge Lutens obviously skews towards more oriental fragrances, and this is where he really shines. ╩His liberal use of spices, woods, and musk are sure to make a statement wherever you wear them. ╩Being a huge Creed fan myself, I find the Serge Lutens offerings to be running an altogether different race. ╩With Creed you get "classy" and "refined." ╩With Serge Lutens you get "audacious" and "opulent." ╩These perfumers take similar pathes to vastly different destinations. ╩They both use VERY high-grade ingredients, and in the hands of true masters they really seem to communicate with the wearer.
    CJ
    Sums it up well. Ofcourse the rabid fanboys/fangirls will disagree..
    -

  15. #15

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    CJ, thanks for the reviews!!!

    You said: "Arabie: At first this seemed like a cross between Mechant Loup and LV Spezie. Almost a gourmand fragrance, it has a very rich, spicy, plum-pudding opening. It moved into potpourri for most of the day, but lightened and smoothed out to a Jaipur EDP finish. Seems like a great Holiday fragrance, but not well-suited for the office."

    This one seems interesting to me but in your review you said "...smoothed out to a Jaipur EDP finish". To me Jaipur dries down to a very powdery finish that I do not like. Was Arabie powdery?

    Thanks

  16. #16
    Morning Star

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    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    Quote Originally Posted by CJ View Post
    Vetiver Oriental: Vetiver Extraordinaire has been my favorite vetiver-based fragrance for years...until now. SL's version is much woodier and spicier in my opinion, and it takes that bitter edge off in such a way that even my wife (who dislikes almost every vetiver I own) actually complimented me on this one.
    I'm in complete agreement here. I tried Vetiver Oriental at The Scent Bar recently, fully expecting it to have the harshness of other vetiver fragrances I've tried. I was pleasantly surprised by it. Vetiver Oriental managed for me to put vetiver back on the list of notes to actively seek out.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    Vetiver Oriental is a very good fragrance. The chocolate in the top and mid notes really adds something unique to the vetiver category. I'm in the 12th hour of wearing VO and I still get a strong vetiver wafting to my nose now and then, and a soft leathery skin scent. A very well crafted fragrance.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    I want to buy vetiver oriental blind. I cant get samples here in deepest darkest cornwall.What do you think? My signature fragrance is guerlain vetiver and I've just bought Chergui which I love....

  19. #19
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    I say go for it.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    Actually I don't need much of a push! What about MKK? Too much for a girl? I'm wearing Kiehls musk but it's very tame and disappears really quick on me. I want to smell Baaad!

  21. #21
    Basenotes Junkie DNT's Avatar
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    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    I like your style SusieSusie. But buying MKK blind can be a deadly mistake for anybody.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    Ah ok. Thanks. Im intrigued by the skank! I shall seek out a decant. Have you had any luck with getting wax samples direct from SL in Paris?

  23. #23

    Default Re: Serge Lutens Test Results

    I own it and say go for it! If I was attracted to a woman and she wore this, it would literally increase my attraction 2 fold. It is one sexy fragrance.
    Wild at Heart and Weird on Top

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