Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 19 of 19
  1. #1

    Default Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    I just ran across an older post from Luca Turin about Guerlain getting rid of various ingredients that are listed as allergens for a tiny segment of the population, including birch tar, coumarin, and my beloved oakmoss. Apparently there are some regulations that say newer perfumes need to either get rid of these ingredients or post warnings on the boxes.

    The post is from June, I believe. I suspect most of the regulars here heard about this when Turin first brought it to light; he says the changeover to synthetics should occur by the end of this year.

    Has anyone heard any more about this? I'm HORRIFIED.

    Here's his post:
    http://lucaturin.typepad.com/perfume...d_of_civi.html

    I wrote to Guerlain about it. Someone please tell me this isn't going to happen.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalim

    Hi, Twitchly. *Have been thinking along those same lines. Came across this:

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    [quote author=Concord link=1118073708/15#20 date=1118153113]
    What he has to say about Guerlain is really disturbing. They are going to rewrite (allready have rewritten) the formulas of all their classics, removing potentially toxic, but indispensable ingredients such as coumarin. Virtually all the classic Guerlains have coumarin in them.
    I saw that, too. *Here's hoping Guerlain tries it, realizes how poorly this works, and scraps the plan before it ever takes effect. *Of all the houses to ever screw over its own legacy, none does it as terribly as Guerlain. *I'm so glad I've never fallen desperately in love with any of their products, because this company, with the nonsense they do to their products, has no respect for their customers.

    Shameful. *Destroying their products like this is just shameful.[/quote]

    I am desperately in love with Guerlain products. The analogy I prefer is when another of my favorites, Coca Cola, reformulated. It was a disaster and *Coke 'introduced' Coca Cola Classic - the original formula.

    Are these changes being prompted by LVMH? If it ain't broke...

  3. #3

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalim

    Yes, it's true. I too read about this in Luca's blog and I wrote to Guerlain. My email bounced back because the mailbox of the recipient was full!! They must have been flooded with complaints.
    I wrote about this to Luca, who replied:

    "The reformulation is apparently going ahead, but with Edouard Fléchier in charge. Let's see what they smell like."
    So there is hope... I hope.

    Life would be too sad without the love of my life, Mitsouko, exactly the way it is, even though I am one of the unfortunate few who happen to be allergic to it.
    I wear it anyway, though rarely. This seems to keep the itchy red rash at bay.
    As a reasonable adult, I believe it is my right to make an informed decision as to whether or not I choose to put substances on my skin that may or may not irritate it.

    What a world, sigh!

  4. #4

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalim

    Oh, jeez are they doing that AGAIN? Time to stockpile the Mitsouko, just like with Vetiver.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    /bump

    Does anyone have any more info on the reformulations? I would love to know more -detail- about what has been changed.

    The reformulation of Vetiver was unabashed, and made into a quite different (and to my nose, equally good) frag. Whereas I presume the reformulations of Shalimar and Mitsouko are aimed at replicating the originals as far as possible. Well, I still adore Shalimar in all its concentrations, but so far as comparing it with old Shalimar - well, I was a good 6 or 7 years between purchases so I have only my very dim memories to go on!

  6. #6

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    As I understand it, Mitsouko contains oakmoss, a potential allergen. The regulators are giving the manufacturers the choice of listing it with a caution label on the box or replacing it with a non-allergenic, synthetic oakmoss. I think most people would continue to buy it with the caution label.
    Think of how many chypre perfumes would be refomulated. A total disaster to my favorite perfumes.

  7. #7
    Serpent
    Guest

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    I'm seeing coumarin listed in the ingredient list on the side of dozens and dozens of new fragrances coming out. Other companies don't seem to have their knickers in a knot about these items, so why does Guerlain?

  8. #8

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    A. LVMH Lawyers.

    B. LVMH Accountants.

  9. #9
    beachroses's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    2,188

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    Those are older fragrances, I am surprised. Some of the new ones contain chemicals that are dangerous or can cause severe allergic reactions that can kill someone.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    The Scented Salamander has just published a small piece about the carnage that occurred with Mitsouko's EdT. It's a must read. I bought a recent bottle of the stuff and I second everything she says. I want to cry.
    Currently wearing: Touaregh by Il Profumo

  11. #11
    Super Member xaml's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Blashyrkh
    Posts
    196

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    Quote Originally Posted by Twitchly View Post
    Apparently there are some regulations that say newer perfumes need to either get rid of these ingredients or post warnings on the boxes.
    I am sorry for resurrecting this thread but is there anyone who can explain to me why, if this choice was indeed given, a warning, that so and so is contained which could lead to so and so in some who are susceptible, could not be added to or close to the list of ingredients and instead compositions dear to not few had to be intruded? I somehow find it too convenient and easy to blame the regulatory side for bringing up something like this, which the perfume houses, with their responsibilities towards their customers skins constituted by the application of their works onto the skin or close to the skin as well as close to the respiratory system, could have anticipated a long time ago.

  12. #12

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    22,223

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    There were some discussions in the past. I am with you that perfume companies do bear some responsibilities as well. Owners like Arnault and co don't really care about perfumes per se, so they are not willing to put their weight in pushing against regulation or risking lawsuits (which instead they do for other business situation). Without pushback from anybody, IFRA and co just keep causing havoc.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    Yes, endless discussions about Mitsouko when they banned oakmoss a simple mention on the box was all that was needed. But LVMH could not be arsed it seems.
    DONNA
    Currently wearing: Woman In Gold by By Kilian

  14. #14
    Super Member xaml's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Blashyrkh
    Posts
    196

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    I tend to agree with your notion and your placing of the emphasis in this way, Donna. At the same time though I am hesitant in this regard as I contemplate on whether it really could have been as simple as this, considering that the company reportedly has invested a lot into a replacement if they could have printed a warning sentence.


    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Without pushback from anybody, IFRA and co just keep causing havoc.

    This is not what I stated respectively meant but this may be your view and elaboration. In this commercial economy especially, reasonable and reliable regulatory instances pursuing the interests of individuals as well as the environment in my view appear to be necessary. I do not know, is it hard to imagine the neglect of informing about potential allergens, even in a small amount of individuals, in the face of a questionable maxim of sales and profit maximisation, a reported price composition which borders on bizarre, cost reductions to the detriment of later customers, overharvesting and possibly a lack of investment in plantations in the past, all of which would appear to be actual threats to this artistry?

  15. #15

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    22,223

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    Note that IFRA is not testing for serious things like cancers and the like. If a molecule had these effects, then of course it should be banned. IFRA only tests for skin allergies, which affect a minority of people. In the food industry, they have taken the much more sensible approach that you say-if a product contains peanuts, or what not, they write it on the box and consumers beware. In perfumery, the big companies don't care and let IFRA dictate behavior.

  16. #16
    Super Member xaml's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Blashyrkh
    Posts
    196

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    If industries can be divided, considering that larger corporate entities hold companies across industries. This though as a neutral observation only. I agree with you that there are warnings on other, well, products such as washing powder, pressurised and inflammable deodorant sprays, even on some perfumes, that its contents are flammable, and as you mention prepared and packaged food, so I really do not understand this situation and do not see how an allergen information would lessen their esteemed status, but I may just be inane like that.
    In regards to skin irritations being rare, I tend not to agree. If someone had sensitive skin, they would of course not aggrandise it but neither downplay it as some insignificant luxury problem but acknowledge it as something which can be challenging. I also think that it goes beyond the skin and that it may include the relatively sensitive respiratory system.

  17. #17
    Super Member xaml's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Blashyrkh
    Posts
    196

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    An interesting little tidbit that I picked up while reading about oakmoss elsewhere, which then lead me to https://folio.nzz.ch/2007/april/ehre-wem-ehre-gebuhrt, translated spontaneously:

    "(...) Oakmoss contains so called resin acids, which can irritate the skin. In very rare cases severe skin reactions can occur. (...) The absurd thing is though: just when the European Union had restricted the use of oakmoss, it turned out that the actual problematic substance was the less expensive treemoss which was used to extend oakmoss. But as it is as difficult to return toothpaste back into its tube as it is to return the ghost of a law back into a bottle, parfumeurs had to submit themselves to the new guidelines. (...)"

    If all of this is accurate, my takeaway is that the restriction which was issued on oakmoss is based on erroneous information. It would therefore not seem impossible for it to be reversed respectively amended to target the actual problem. Also, in this article at least, which was published two years after this thread, there is no mention about the possibility for the placement of an allergen information which would make it possible to avoid the restriction, but in this specific case this seems redundant since the restriction in its described state is flawed.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    Did never test newer formulations of Mitsuko, however had fairly good ones with a few recent concentrations of Shalimar-irrespective of possible or even demonstrated IFRA restricted ingredients like oakmoss and/or anything else (though not certain, not informed either way if Shalimar ever contained oakmoss initially, including in its vintage/initial formulations) still considering Shalimar as a benchmark for everything the house of Guerlain has admirably and undeniably achieved.

    Warm, sensual, complex, luxurious yet still (at least somewhat) suitable for more everyday, down to earth, versatile wear, with comparatively affordable value for money/price quality ratio while nearly unisex as well.

  19. #19
    Super Member xaml's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Blashyrkh
    Posts
    196

    Default Re: Update on reformulation of Mitsouko and Shalimar?

    Is the second paragraph a response to the topic of houses or their owners undermining their respectively this artistry? It may be my hatred for marketing but it did make me wonder.




Similar Threads

  1. No Mitsouko at Barneys?!?
    By djuna in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 29th January 2007, 05:43 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000