Code of Conduct
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 31 to 48 of 48

Thread: Chypres

  1. #31
    Artisankey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Coastal Maine, USA
    Posts
    1,086

    Default Re: Chypres

    Quote Originally Posted by smitsky
    I also waer Ralph Lauren's Safari for Women. That's one incredible fragrance.
    Yes- I definitely agree. *While unfortunately not one that I can wear, I'm always surprised that Safari doesn't get a lot more press. *I think of it as a greenish Chypre. *It certainly has that outdoorsy kind of edge, yet also has an effortless elegance that makes for an all-around great scent. *Especially if you don't have time to shower and change a fragrance from day to evening.

    Does anyone here regularly wear Safari for Women?
    Scent is such a lovely, simple pleasure!

  2. #32

    Default Re: Chypres

    Flathorn,

    I am a chypre lover too (I also tend toward orientals).

    The Oriental and the Chypre families, by the way, have a lot in common:
    a) They are the oldest in history (the first perfumes in antiquity were orientals, using resins, woods and spices - it wasn't until much later that we learned how to distill the essences from flowers; chypre bases - perhaps without the bergamot - were made in the isle of Cypress - from mixture of oakmoss, labdanum and spices)
    b) Both chypres and orientals are based on a CONTRAST - in Chypre it is the contrast between the fresh-fruity notes of citrus (namely bergamot) with the earthy-mossy base of oakmoss, labdanum and patchouli.
    Oriental perfumes are usually based on a similar contrast - citrus top notes and ambery base notes (for ambery orientals).

    My favourite chypres:

    Vol de Nuit (it has also some oriental or floriental elements)
    Mitsouko (Fruity Woody Chypre)
    Miss Dior (Green Chypre)
    Femme (Fruity & Leathery Chypre)
    Private Collection (Green Floral Chypre)
    Ayalitta (Green chypre)
    Megumi (Woody floral chypre)
    Feuilles de Tabac (Leathery chypre)

    There are many others that are beautiful, of course... But these are the ones I always want to have around.
    Ayala Moriel, Perfumer
    Ayala Moriel Parfums http://www.ayalamoriel.com/
    Visit my SmellyBlog: http://www.smellyblog.com/

  3. #33
    FufuLaRue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    752

    Default Re: Chypres

    Quote Originally Posted by paloma54
    I'm a green floral and a green chypre lover too.
    [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]

    I absolutely love green chypres too, Paloma, my all time favorite being Shiseido's Inoui (which costs a king's ransom these days). Paloma Picasso, Genny, Aromatics Elixir, Parure, EL Knowing, and Coty Chypre are among my favorites, too.
    "Too much of a good thing is wonderful." -- Mae West

  4. #34
    moondeva's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Glasgow, Scotland
    Posts
    1,562
    Blog Entries
    4

    Default Re: Chypres

    Quote Originally Posted by flathorn
    Ones I think are chypres and have liked: *
    Profumo (my almost HG - this feels very me); *
    Madness- Chopard (beyond sexy into sensual; intelligent); *
    Opone (visionary); *
    Comme Une Evidence (I thought it was a floral I could wear, but discovered it's categorized as chypre); *
    Le Baiser Du Dragon (chypre? an elusive mystery); *
    Animale (grrr - a bit vanillic on startup, but I like the little sexy note in it).
    I too am a dedicated Chypre girl of long standing. I have found throughout my life that deep mossy woody perfumes are MUCH easier for me to wear and smell fantastic with my chemistry than any floral. This is a great thread / topic and it is so reassuring to see that I am not alone in the fact that light aquatic / ozonic / florals do NOT work on me. :-*

    What are the details for the Profumo? I have Profumo de Montecatini but would class that as a floral. Which do you mean?

    Also what is Opone - I have never heard of it....

    And are these all US-based boutique scents? I miss out on many of those being out here in the UK... :'(
    Favourite (Winter) Crazy Combos

    Tabu + Orange Blossom * Hermes Rouge + Bellodgia* Voleur du Roses+ Rose Ispahan * Rasa Extreme + Paris * Wood Coffee + Cafe Noir *

  5. #35

    Default Re: Chypres

    Artisankey:
    I really like Safari, and it's been a mainstay for almost a decade. I've never got tired of it, and even though I've discovered a lot of wonderful fragrances the last year and a half, nothing has filled or replaced that certain Safari slot. I think it's underrated too. I heard it's being discontinued, which is disappointing. How can a fragrance like that languish in popular opinion?

    Moondeva:
    Profumo is by Acqua Di Parma, and while not categorized (as far as I've found), is usually considered chypre. It boasts 300 ingredients, comes from the '30's, and is a complex, somewhat rough, smoky-floral, sexy, dry, intelligent fragrance. I think it's well constructed with no one note seeming to dominate - though it might come closest to a smokey dry floral. It's kind of it's own fragrance, not having a real equivalent I've discovered so far (but others here may have discovered similar ones).
    Opone by Diptyque, is a love it or hate it fragrance I think. It's considered a woody floral chypre, and built around the rose. What some people like (and others don't) is the spice and floral combination of saffron/rose. I really don't consider it a floral, as the notes all seem to add up to a unique sort of fragrance - earthy, musty, foenugreek-like, equatorial rose. What Voleur De Roses is for some people, I think Opone is for others - a unique rose treatment.
    Both are available online - Luscious Cargo
    http://www.lusciouscargo.com/Merchan...mv?Screen=SFNT
    has a sample program where you can try both!

  6. #36

    Default Re: Chypres

    Quote Originally Posted by FufuLaRue
    I absolutely love green chypres too, Paloma, my all time favorite being Shiseido's Inoui (which costs a king's ransom these days). Paloma Picasso, Genny, Aromatics Elixir, Parure, EL Knowing, and Coty Chypre are among my favorites, too.
    Moonfish: The way I began to understand chypres could be appropriate for anybody.
    Just try to find vintage Chypre by Coty.
    And then try to go by historic way - Mitsouko Guerlain, etc...


    (I don't know how quote two different posts at a time).

    I've wanted to try Coty's Chypre for a while, and have bid on several on ebay, but the price quickly goes through the ceiling if it comes in an original bottle - I guess some are bidding on the bottle itself. Is there any place to purchase this reasonably anymore? I've seen several dupes, but don't want to try those. I do keep my eyes open on ebay, and know eventually I'll stumble on a deal, but it's hard to wait.

  7. #37

    Default Re: Chypres

    Quote Originally Posted by Ayala
    Flathorn,
    I am a chypre lover too (I also tend toward orientals).

    My favourite chypres:
    Megumi (Woody floral chypre)
    There are many others that are beautiful, of course... But these are the ones I always want to have around.
    Thanks for the great list - however I can't find Megumi anyplace. I googled it and got into the inner sanctums of Japanese blogs, singers, and writings... interesting, but no fragrance!
    Is it a Japanese fragrance?

  8. #38

    Default Re: Chypres

    Alas, I cannot wear Mitsouko- it didn't have an awful turn, but the odour was not particularly pleasant, much too strong and not very palatable. Certainly no flowers out of it, maybe dead ones :-/

    I have no hope for other chypres if Mitsouko doesn't work. I adore my florientals (the one family that work) but it's annoying knowing I can't really wear anything else with my chemistry.

    Does anyone know what characterises a Chypre?
    Because according to Wikipedia, they should be fragrances that build on a similar base consisting of bergamot, jasmine and oakmoss. Mitsouko has all three, Azzura by Azzaro seems to be missing oakmoss but is classified as a fruity chypre same as Mitsouko. Can anyone explain?

  9. #39
    moondeva's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Glasgow, Scotland
    Posts
    1,562
    Blog Entries
    4

    Default Re: Chypres

    Dear Elysium,
    Susan Irvine describes Chypres as "...family of fragrancesis named for the original Chyptre (Cyprus) created by famous perfumer Francois Coty in 1917. Coty's classic was based on the contrast between citrussy top notes and the pungent earthy odour of oakmoss. All Chypres are variations on this theme. They often include patchouli and woods, and ambery labdanum or animal notes. The heart note is floral. The overall impression is often powdery....."

    Please don't worry about not 'appreciating' Mitsouko - she is a very elusive lady to pin down. I must admit my first impressions of her were very similar " a jar of musty long dead flowers.." to be exact. LOL.

    I adore chypres and find in my experience that they all share a very dry, mossy, powdery character which is at once very feminine, elegant and withdrawn. This is why many Chypres are perfect for professional / office wear.

    Since you already prefer floral, spicy vanillary scents here are a few suggestions for you to try as you begin to explore the misty, elusive, sexy cerebal world of Chypres:

    Revlon Charlie classic - underrated, much maligned - should be tried as it is a gentle intro to the chypre genre.
    Nina Ricci Deci Dela - fruity with warm vanillary base - but still a chypre
    Rochas Femme - a true Classic! I preferred this to Mitsouko for the chypre / peach combo, much more juicy, warm and inviting. Now I ocassionally layer the two of them.
    YSL Yvresse - very fruity and 'fizzy' but still a chypre - fruit top note, floral mid notes and oakmoss / patchouli in the base. Remains light - not dense.

    I would start with those before then trying such classics as Chanel No.19, Carven Ma Griffe, Ungaro Diva etc. Once you are comfortable with those then you could consider the big guns like EL Knowing, Chanel Cuir de Russie, Gres Cabochard, etc.

    Do let us know what you discover and think of the chypres you do decide to try. I do hope this was of some help. Enjoy the adventure...
    Favourite (Winter) Crazy Combos

    Tabu + Orange Blossom * Hermes Rouge + Bellodgia* Voleur du Roses+ Rose Ispahan * Rasa Extreme + Paris * Wood Coffee + Cafe Noir *

  10. #40

    Default Re: Chypres

    Cheers Moondeva ;D
    That was very informative, and I'll definitely keep those scents in mind on my next frag hunt.

    If you view my wardrobe, you'll see the scents which work with my skin (collection) and the ones that don't (mostly in tested, 2* or less)
    I've never really found the same kinship with vanilla/spices the way I have with musks/amber.

  11. #41

    Default Re: Chypres

    Quote Originally Posted by elysium
    ...Azzura by Azzaro seems to be missing oakmoss but is classified as a fruity chypre same as Mitsouko. *Can anyone explain?
    Hi. Pardon my 2 cents...

    but... OzMos has Azzura listed as a Floral - Fruity

    I never thought of Azzura as a Chypre. I may be wrong.

    Best,

    ~S.

    Edit: Ok, I see, you meant Azzaro by Azzaro for Women. ozMos lists one of it's basenote ingredients as Oakmoss though.




  12. #42

    Default Re: Chypres

    Quote Originally Posted by smitsky
    [quote author=elysium link=1130529609/30#37 date=1131587692]...Azzura by Azzaro seems to be missing oakmoss but is classified as a fruity chypre same as Mitsouko. Can anyone explain?
    Hi. Pardon my 2 cents...

    but... OzMos has Azzura listed as a Floral - Fruity

    I never thought of Azzura as a Chypre. I may be wrong.

    Best,

    ~S.

    Edit: Ok, I see, you meant Azzaro by Azzaro for Women[/quote]
    Nope, I meant Azzura by Azzaro, and I also always thought it was a fruity floral according to its notes, but according to the following link, it's been placed as a chypre
    Quote Originally Posted by veronica
    http://www.leffingwell.com/h%26rfragrance/poster_genealogie_feminin.pdf

  13. #43

    Default Re: Chypres

    Whoa! That's a very interesting chart! I see what you mean. I see Azzura there. Sure enough... listed as a Fruity Chypre! Thanks for the info.

    Regards,

    ~S.


  14. #44

    Default Re: Chypres

    ooops, double post

  15. #45

    Default Re: Chypres

    yeah, I think they must've made a mistake with the chart as my sample doesn't advertise oakmoss as an ingredient, nor can I detect it on my skin.
    But does anyone with a nose for oakmoss know for sure?

  16. #46

    Default Re: Chypres

    I can't open the Leffingwell geneology, but the Michael Edwards chart also lists it as chypre - a crisp, fruity chypre.

    http://www.fragrancedirectory.info/u...leContacts.asp

    I haven't tried Azzura, but do know the fragrance lists can't be heavily relied upon when trying to tease apart a fragrance. They seem designed to mislead as much as attract.

  17. #47

    Question Re: Chypres

    Could be just me - but I think the Azzura by Azzaro is the sister of White Linen Breeze. Sometimes I think the perfume sites that sell them don't quite list the fragrances correctly. I guess it is difficult when people will smell a different note or something seems more this or that.

    For example, I love Yvresse and want to get something similar. Using the same notes 'Fruity and Chypre' as a factor, I purchased a bottle of Romeo de Gigli and I hate it!

    Has anybody else had this problem?

  18. #48

    Default Re: Chypres

    Chypres are probably my favorite category, and I find that I wear them well. However, that's not saying that all of them are attractive on me, or that I even like them.

    Favorites are Ivoire (love it, love it), K de Krizia - a bit deeper and a touch fruitier, by not sweet/fruity, and Vivre.

    I also like Cinnabar, but didn't think of it as a chypre (although others have listed it in this thread as such). To me it was more of a light oriental, but not as strong as Opium.

    Some chypres are a bit too dry for me - Knowing, Chanel No. 19 (also a bit too green). I also felt that Amazone (Hermes) was the same way, but am not sure if that's also a true chypre.

    And other chypres are simply too sweet for me. I like them a touch floral, a bit dry and powdery, but not nose-bleed dry.

Similar Threads

  1. Chypres without oakmoss
    By JaimeB in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 9th November 2007, 02:07 PM
  2. 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres
    By Twolf in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 64
    Last Post: 6th October 2007, 11:37 PM
  3. Pink Chypres / New Chypres
    By purplebird7 in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 3rd April 2007, 09:07 PM
  4. Good Chypres
    By Ailric in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 30
    Last Post: 9th December 2005, 11:26 PM
  5. Where have all the chypres gone?
    By Ladylonestar in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 21st December 2004, 08:54 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000