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  1. #1

    Default Guerlain's lovers: a question for you

    As everybody knows, Guerlain has opened "La Maison Guerlain" in Paris and is decided to explore its prestigious past. A few years ago, Guerlain already re-issued some fragrances as "Parfums des Champs Elysées", "Liu", "Vega" or "Djedi". Today the brand communicates on "Cachet Jaune" (1937), "Ode" (1955), "Kadine" (1911) and "Sous le Vent" (1934).

    Maybe you would have also heard of "Eau de Cologne Hegemonienne" (1890), "Sillage" (1907), "Jardin de Mon Curé" (1895), "Atuana" (1952), "Jasmiralda" (1917), "Bouquet de Faunes" (1922), "Candide Effluve" (1922), "A Travers Champs" (1898), "Coque d'Or" (1937), "Dawamesk" (1945), "Fleur de Feu" (1948) and many others.

    I'm definitely decided to learn more about these fragrances, especially about compositions. If you have any information about these wonderful perfumes, please share it! I think it could be found in old documents (ads, magazines...).

    I hope some addicts and collectors would help me

  2. #2

    Default Re: Guerlain's lovers: a question for you

    I only have information on one....Guet-Apens and here it is.....

    Attrape-Coeurs a.k.a. Guet-Apens (Guerlain)
    When the history of Guerlain post-sale-of-the-family-silver is written, the departure of Mathilde Laurent for Cartier after a brief tenure as heir apparent to Jean-Paul Guerlain will, I believe, be seen as a turning point. Consider this: she composed the three best fragrances since the comically dire Champs-Elysées: Pamplelune, Shalimar Lite and Guet-Apens. Every one of these is stylistically as it should be, steeped in the Guerlain spirit without being backward-looking. Guet-Apens (ambush), originally a short-lived (éphémère) made for Christmas 1999, is now part of Guerlain's “undeletes” line, with low-sales things like the great Derby (now with a weird citrus note on top) and Après L'Ondée (EdT, magical as always). She left early this year. When the 68 opened in June, Guet-Apens was used as the signature fragrance for the party. By this time it had changed name to Attrape-Coeurs (heart-catcher). The name change was apparently accompanied by a change of authorship (not for the first time) to Jean-Paul Guerlain: her name does not appear in the latest listing of fragrances.
    What is it like ? Hugely, hypnotically snug. It has the mulled-wine effect of Chanel's Bois des Iles, but in the Guerlain manner, i.e. based around an amber accord (De Laire's classic Ambre 83 base). Do not get the impression that this is a high-calorie perfume, though. Almost everything around and above the amber base is dry, restrained, and of heavenly quality: iris and rose notes, woods, vanilla tincture, all the things that only a Guerlain perfumer can specify and the others merely dream of. Bear in mind that this was composed before L'Instant. It simply beggars belief that Maurice Roucel's skilful but uninspiring composition was chosen over this to represent the Guerlain spirit in every shop worldwide, for Guet-Apens would have been a runaway success. The only explanation I can come up with is that the coinage in perfumery has been so far debased that, regardless of structure and composition, quality itself has come to feel passé. That, friends, is what they call decadence.


  3. #3

    Default Re: Guerlain's lovers: a question for you

    Quote Originally Posted by glorious1
    ... is now part of Guerlain's “undeletes” line, with low-sales things like the great Derby (now with a weird citrus note on top) ...
    The re-issued Derby has been altered?

    Was about to remit money order to purchase.

    Can anyone comment? Sorry, this is coming as a bit of a shock. I was about to print an envelope and stop at post office on way to work.


  4. #4

    Default Re: Guerlain's lovers: a question for you

    No real info here. Apparently Bouquet des Faunes was very animalic. And the bottle was beautiful. I'd like to add another mystery Guerlain to your list; Extase.

    In one of my books on perfume there is a picture of a Guerlain commercial with a woman dressed like a giant powder puff. She's flanked by two women dressed like perfume bottles. One of them has L'Heure Bleue written on her costume, the other has Extase. I've never heard of it before or since.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Guerlain's lovers: a question for you

    Indeed it's very strange! I've also never heard of this creation.
    Do you think it's definitely a perfume, not a cosmetic?
    But Guerlain has created more than 600 perfumes since 1828 so I think we would make many discoveries!!!

    Anyone can enlighten??

    Quote Originally Posted by Concord
    No real info here. Apparently Bouquet des Faunes was very animalic. And the bottle was beautiful. I'd like to add another mystery Guerlain to your list; Extase.

    In one of my books on perfume there is a picture of a Guerlain commercial with a woman dressed like a giant powder puff. She's flanked by two women dressed like perfume bottles. One of them has L'Heure Bleue written on her costume, the other has Extase. I've never heard of it before or since.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Guerlain's lovers: a question for you

    Quote Originally Posted by Concord

    In one of my books on perfume there is a picture of a Guerlain commercial with a woman dressed like a giant powder puff. She's flanked by two women dressed like perfume bottles. One of them has L'Heure Bleue written on her costume, the other has Extase. I've never heard of it before or since.
    I have that book. Actually the picture was taken from an old movie of 1925. Though the text says ... Extase and L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain... I'm pretty sure Extase is by a other fragrance house (maybe Lubin or something). Probably that Extase was popular in 1925.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Guerlain's lovers: a question for you

    Hm, if anyone has $400, you can try out some vintage Candide Effluve on Ebay. I have never seen this one on there before.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/rare-vintage-Gue...QQcmdZViewItem

    Unfortunately, they don't list the notes...

  8. #8

    Default Re: Guerlain's lovers: a question for you

    Quote Originally Posted by cedriceccentric
    [quote author=Concord link=1129212967/0#3 date=1129269103]

    In one of my books on perfume there is a picture of a Guerlain commercial with a woman dressed like a giant powder puff. She's flanked by two women dressed like perfume bottles. One of them has L'Heure Bleue written on her costume, the other has Extase. I've never heard of it before or since.
    I have that book. Actually the picture was taken from an old movie of 1925. Though the text says ... Extase and L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain... I'm pretty sure Extase is by a other fragrance house (maybe Lubin or something). Probably that Extase was popular in 1925.
    [/quote]

    Ah, shoot! I actually thought it might be something like that. Ah, well.

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