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  1. #1

    Default Crown Perfumery discontinued fragrances

    I sampled a set of Crown discontinued fragrances, below:

    Crown Alpine Lily - Created for Empress Sissy. A symbol of purity and abundance.
    Crown Court Bouquet - Created for Lady Astor. A divine bouquet which carries to the creator the homage of all earthly blossoms.
    Crown Esterhazy - Created for Princess Esterhazy. A very uncomplicated, but fresh and enduring citrus fragrance- almost edible in its completeness.
    Matsukita - Created for a Japanese Princess. A truly great floral / oriental warmed with a rich and spicy balance.
    Crown Heliotrope - Created for Ava Gardner. It is a rich and romantic floriental fragrance that leaves a lingering and intriguing impression.
    Crown Imperial - Created for Edward VII. A magnificent, dry, citrus fragrance with spicy undertones.
    Town & Country - Created for Winston Churchill. A fragrance of classical proportions and timeless appeal.

    I'm not sure what to think of these fragrances. Nearly all had a slight soapy undertone, which lent them a distinctive note, almost signature in that they all shared it. I know chemistry is all, so don't know if this is a reaction with my skin or not. Or if perhaps these were old degraded fragrances, which might explain that certain similarity of note.
    Crown Esterhazy, Court Bouquet, Imperial, Town & Country all shared a similar verbena (litsea cubeba-like) top note. I believe even the Alpine Lily had some verbena. That, in conjunction with the soapiness, rendered them somewhat similar. They divided into refreshing verbena with soapiness, floral verbena with soapiness, powdered soapiness, with verbena, and mossy soapiness with verbena.
    Matsukita was interesting in that it had an old-fashioned note which I couldn't for the life of me understand why I kept thinking of as 'old-fashioned'. The only thing I can come up with is it must trigger some olfactory memory from long ago, that I associate with an older relative, or an older house. I DO NOT mean an old lady scent - I dislike that term, feeling it disparages a fragrance, and don't use it. It was something more specific than that. But I can't say I liked this fragrance either. The note didn't set easily with me.
    If these fragrances weren't old/degraded, and truthfully represent themselves, I would have to say sometimes there are good reasons fragrances are discontinued, or fall out of favor. They seemed an unusual group, notable more for their curious notes and similarities than their stand-alone qualities. I believe my favorite was 'Town and Country' which was an eau de cologne type fragrance (no neroli) with an herbal drydown. In that one, a slight soapiness seems appropriate. The heliotrope wasn't bad with the slight whiff of almond in the heliotrope, but it too had a soapiness on me.
    Definitely no must-haves, but I don't regret sampling them. If anybody would like to try the set, let me know.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Crown Perfumery discontinued fragrances

    Quote Originally Posted by flathorn
    If these fragrances weren't old/degraded, and truthfully represent themselves, I would have to say sometimes there are good reasons fragrances are discontinued, or fall out of favor.
    Yes, sometimes there are good reasons fragrances are discontinued and sometimes, as in the case of the Crown fragrances, there aren't. *You should be able to read about the history of the Crown fragrances here at Basenotes with this link:

    Quoting in part: *In 2000 Crown was acquired once more. This time by English millionaire, and posh furniture maker, Clive Christian. He closed down the boutiques and slimmed down the Crown range to eight scents - four each for men and women. The range now consisted of Crown of Gold, Marechale 90, Crown Boutique and Tanglewood Bouquet and the masculine scents of: - Crown Park Royal, Marquis, Sandringham and Crown Spiced Limes.

    In 2001, Clive Christian launched his own range of perfume. Three scents, with a version each for men and for women - entitled Number One, X and 1872 (the year Crown was founded).

    Sadly in early 2002, Mr Christian chose to throw away 130 years of history and discontinue the remaining eight Crown scents. His own scents are still available (In very similar bottles to Crown), though you may find Clive's scents a little expensive for your tastes.

    I enjoyed your review and commentary on the Crown fragrances you sampled, Flathorn. *I have a number of samples myself that I still haven't gotten round to sniffing. *Thanks for sharing! *[smiley=thumbsup.gif]

  3. #3

    Default Re: Crown Perfumery discontinued fragrances

    Crown do have that old fashion english thing like Penhaligions.

    I like Crow Ess Bouquet made for Queen Victoria

    Eau de Russie for Tzar NicholasII,it is a lovely sandalwood fragrance.

    They did not deserve what Clive the kitchen maker did to them.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Crown Perfumery discontinued fragrances

    Flathorn, looking through older posts here. I really enjoyed your comments on why scents are sometimes retired as I've thought about this myself. Now this is going to sound off the wall but, if chemistry and a scents mixing with one's own odors is important, what is the effect of infrequent washing? Clothing was aired and brushed more than washed in the late 1800's and early 1900's. There must have been a strong component of one's sweat and bacteria for a perfume to fight or cover up perhaps. I wonder if people used perfumes more to disguise unpleasant odors of the times than to enjoy a smell as we do today. After all, imagine a world with horse manure in the streets, chamber pots under the bed, three layers of petticoats and corsets on a warm day and perfume takes on a whole new meaning. Face it, were are cleaner today than in yesteryear's folks. Do you think some went to their soapy retirement because we don't need that type of strong, covering smell anymore?

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