Code of Conduct
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  1. #1

    Default The year is 1905

    1905. A protest march in St. Petersburg is put down by the armed forces, killing over 1,000 people, and leading to a chain of violence and revolt throughout Russia. In India, over 20,000 loose their life in an earthquake. Albert Einstein formulates the theory of special relativity, and states the law of mass-energy conservation. In the French town of Granville, a boy by the name of Christian Dior is born.

    It’s in this time frame, a good 100 years ago, that modernity makes its entrance in perfumery. While L.T. Piver continues to produce traditional florals like Azuréa, Rosiris and Floramya, François Coty is making a name for himself as a master of synthetic ingredients: with his use of aldehydes, vanilla, and synthesized carnation, he creates a whole new benchmark in perfumery. In 1905 he launches L’Origan, the first fragrance to contain ionone: it’s an instant success. In that same year he teams up with René Lalique, who creates a series of perfume bottles that look unlike anything else on the market: again, Coty is on a winning streak. Meanwhile, on the Champs-Elysées, Guerlain is trying to lure a new clientele with Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904), today an undisputed classic. Their feminine releases of 1905, Avril en Fleurs and Aï Loe, will barely make it into the history books. A new kid in town has just opened his doors on the Rue de la Paix: 1905 marks Caron’s release of Bel Amour and London-Paris, the latter being conceived as a tribute to the British-French alliance sealed in 1904. Caron is not a ‘household’ name among the Parisian beau monde yet, but its success is slowly coming in sight.

    100 years have gone by. I look forward to try L’Origan, as I would desperately want to know what beauty smelled like in those days. But I’m also aware, alas, that reformulations will give a distorted impression of what the original was like. Perhaps I need a trip in the Time Machine. Or simply a ticket to the Osmothèque in Versailles.

    Avenue des Champs-Elysées, around 1905
    http://www.carfree.com/postcard/post...ris-champs.jpg
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  2. #2

    Default Re: The year is 1905

    Thank you for that Marcello. I never tire of reading perfume history.

    Barry
    Fine fragrance is alive; it breathes, unfolds and unravels with each passing hour....

    Roja Dove

  3. #3
    Ladylonestar
    Guest

    Default Re: The year is 1905

    Quote Originally Posted by Marcello
    ...François Coty is making a name for himself as a master of synthetic ingredients: with his use of aldehydes, vanilla, and synthesized carnation, he creates a whole new benchmark in perfumery. In 1905 he launches L’Origan, the first fragrance to contain ionone: it’s an instant success.... Meanwhile, on the Champs-Elysées, Guerlain is trying to lure a new clientele with Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904), today an undisputed classic. Their feminine releases of 1905, Avril en Fleurs and Aï Loe, will barely make it into the history books....
    And a few years later Jacques Guerlain will offer up L'Heure Bleue, a gift to his wife and ultimately "a commercial challenge to Coty's L'Origan." (Nigel Groom, Perfume: The Ultimate Guide to The World's Finest Fragrances.)

    Marcello, several years ago I read (but now cannot find) an article that said Coty actually created L'Origan as a tribute to Coco Chanel. Have you come across this information in your research and reading? I can't recall if I read this online or in one of my perfume books.

    Thanks for the info -- it's always a joy to read. [smiley=wink.gif]


  4. #4

    Default Re: The year is 1905

    Thanks for the trip back into time Marcello.
    Scent is such a lovely, simple pleasure!

  5. #5

    Default Re: The year is 1905

    Thanks, Marcello! Loved the pic of Champs-Élysées, too. [smiley=smiley.gif]
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  6. #6

    Default Re: The year is 1905

    Loved your article! If you find your time machine can I come too?

    I will of course throw myself at Jacques and Ernest.
    DONNA

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Nashville, Tennessee
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    438

    Default Re: The year is 1905

    Great article Marcello. It would certainly be an experience to be transported back in time when these classics were making their debut. Becoming a fragrance enthusiast at a very early age, L'Origan, L'Aimant and Emeraude were among my first purchases since, by that time, they were readily available at the local drug stores. We can only imagine what beauty the orginal formulas revealed.

    JAG

  8. #8

    Default Re: The year is 1905

    Quote Originally Posted by Ladylonestar
    And a few years later Jacques Guerlain will offer up L'Heure Bleue, a gift to his wife and ultimately "a commercial challenge to Coty's L'Origan." *(Nigel Groom, Perfume: The Ultimate Guide to The World's Finest Fragrances.)
    good point. Après l'Ondée was launched in 1906, but the bigger success came indeed with l'Heure Bleue, in 1912.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ladylonestar
    several years ago I read (but now cannot find) an article that said Coty actually created L'Origan as a tribute to Coco Chanel. *Have you come across this information in your research and reading? *I can't recall if I read this online or in one of my perfume books.
    I haven't read that, but I think it's very unlikely that François Coty could have known Gabrielle Chanel as early as 1905. At that time she worked at a millinery in Moulins, in relative anonimity. In her spare time she sang at a place called La Rotonde, where her vocal renditions of "Ko Ko Ri Ko" and "Qui qu'a vu Coco?" were her main claim to fame. She moved to Paris to open her own millinery in 1910.
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  9. #9
    Ladylonestar
    Guest

    Default Re: The year is 1905

    Marcello, I noted the time frame, too. Well... the search for the article continues! [smiley=wink.gif]


  10. #10

    Default Re: The year is 1905

    Lovely, thanks Marcello:-)
    http://blogsorbeta.blox.pl: CdG Series 8 Energy
    (Oct. 3rd).

  11. #11

    Default Re: The year is 1905

    Great read ~ thank you!
    "Believe none of what you hear and half of what you see." -Benjamin Franklin

  12. #12

    Default Re: The year is 1905

    Some years later:-)

    Anais wrote that Mitsouko is delicate and fleeting. Can you believe that?:-)
    http://blogsorbeta.blox.pl: CdG Series 8 Energy
    (Oct. 3rd).

  13. #13

    Default Re: The year is 1905

    Very interesting. Thank you, Marcello.

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