I visited the Ormonde Jayne perfumery in London this winter and was so impressed with this line I ordered the all the samples.
I first of all fell in love with Ta'if, a wonderful spicy rose perfume accompanied with desert aromas.
I just couldn't think about this one and I must say that after receiving the samples my love for it just grows!
Here are some short and sweet reviews of the whole line.
I will be writing more detailed reviews soon - but really wanted to share these with you now when I am all excited about them.
Desert roses surrounded by dry dates and spicy saffron.
It is sensual yet subtle, captivating and refined.
The drydown is powdery-vanilla, and surprisingly reminiscent of Tocade!
It can be an interesting and refreshing alternative for Parfum Sacre in that it is a sexy, spicy-powdery rose with a sweet base.
It simply makes me feel special when I wear it - as Parfum Sacre does to me.
Harmonious and balanced, like a desert wind approaching the sea at sunset. This perfume gives a feeling of golden rays gently touching your face just before the sun goes down, with wind kissing it with dusty spices.
Top notes: Orange blossom, pink peer, saffron, dates, white peach
Heart notes: TaÔif roses, freesia, lily of the valley, jasmine
Base notes: Amber, Tonka Bean, Musk, Vanilla Absolute
The exotic, tea-like champaca notes remain true to the original throughout the composition. Accompanied by basmati rice, the champaca-basmati-tea accord is prominent throughout the fragrance evolution.
It starts off with a hint of fruity citrus freshness that is backed up strongly by the champaca and basmati notes. These are warm, enveloping and comforting (just like a bowl of whole-grain basmati rice in a beautiful and fragrant Zen-inspired restaurant).
It is a gourmand scent (the basmati and green tea notes are very apparent!), but in a sophisticated way which makes it smell actually woody. It reminds one of the beauty of mundane aromatics and pours a different light on them...
Top notes: Neroli, Pink Pepper, Bamboo
Heart notes: Champaca, Freesia absolute, Basmati Rice
Base notes: Myrrh, Green Tea, Musk
This is quite a surprise. It starts off with a foresty black hemlock note (which is also apparent in the masculine version of the scent). However, this is no usual woody scent. In fact, it is a mysterious and subtle violet scent!
The violets here are very dark, as if hidden in the shades of the forest. The final drydown is quite sweet - almost like an oriental.
An interesting and versatile fragrance that can be very individual when it finds its match!
Top notes: Cardamom, Coriander, Grass Oil
Heart notes: Black Hemlock, Violet, Jasmine Absolute
Base notes: Vetiver, Cedar Wood, Amber, Sandalwood
Rich, deep, resinous ambery scent.
Starts with an extreme dominance of Tolu (which at first may make you think there is nothing else there). To those who are not familiar with the scent - it is a dark, thick balsam that smells like a combination of vanilla, cinnamon and cloves. It is very warm and sweet, and thicker than molasses!
The tolu is accompanied by some herbal notes that are very subtle (the notes state juniper), and than transforms into a total-ambery experience, honeyed with broom at full bloom - yellow, luscious and sweet to the last breath.
It is perhaps one of the more pleasant amber perfumes I ever smelled - without being boring, overly sweet or overwhelming (=nauseous). May be a good alternative for those who find Ambre Sultan too masculine. However, I did find it a bit linear after the initial top notes have faded away. My most favourite part of it was the broom-like top notes which reminded me of a certain broom-related thorny bush that blooms in spring and intoxicates the air with itÔs heady and narcotic and slightly honeyed fragrance.
Top notes: Juniper Berry, Orange Blossom, Clary Sage, Broom
Heart notes: Orchid, Moroccan Rose, Muguet
Base: Tolu Balsam, Tonka Bean, Golden Frankincense, Amber
A light and much less creamy interpretation of the magical tropical paradise flower.
Starts with a breath of citrus and with linden blossom which quickly gives away to the green-waxy scent of the pure frangipani absolute. It does have some hints of the fresh flower - but they are quite subtle.
There are some water lilies at the heart which makes it light and modern as well as jasmine which adds some richness and depth - but it never quite gets very creamy. It is rather a light and quite heady floral - but the type of heady floral that those who are scared of heady florals will like or at least be able to tolerate (like me...).
Definitely worth a try!
I think it will be especially great for the summer - a light floral that is interesting and not cloying.
Top notes: Linden Blossom, Magnolia Flower, Lime Peel
Heart notes: White Frangipani Absolute, Jasmine, Rose absolute, Tuberose absolute,
Water Lily, Plum, Green Orchid oil
Base notes: Camber, Musk, Cedar, French Vanilla absolute
This exotic name is no more than the Philippine name for Jasmine Sambac. Here is it accompanied with lychee and grass oil top notes, which makes it sweet and almost cloying and backed up with patchouli the result is quite reminiscent of the hippie era...
This opening accord (sambac, lychee, grass oil, patchouli) is actually quite pleasant on its own and is awfully familiar - however soon a superficial water lily note interferes and makes the scent somewhat irritating for me.
Definitely an interesting scent to try - but I don't find myself reaching for the sample very often. Also, once I apply it I usually want to switch to something else pretty fast.
I love the name of that perfume - it sound romantic, exotic, mysterious and sweet.
Top notes: Lychee, Grass Oil, Bergamot, Magnolia
Heart notes: Sampaquita Absolute (Jasmine Sambac), Freesia, Muguet, Rose, Water Lily
Base notes: Musk, Vetiver, Moss, Ambrette Seed, Pathchouli
Ormonde for Men:
I haven't quite tried this for a very long period of time. It starts off coniferous - with the black hemlock as in Ormonde (for women), but than dries down to a tolu balsam base note or something similar to Dior Addict.
I didn't find it particularly interesting - but I didn't give it enough chance. I will need to come back later and review it again.
I tried it on my SO and it smelled very foresty and though pleasant it was not as original and interesting as the Ormonde for women.
Definitely the most boring and insignificant of the collection.
It is a citrus woody with hints of florals that are hard to detect. I cannot find the osmanthus notes there at all but than again it could be my body chemistry playing tricks on me.
It is very similar to the Creeds in my opinion - something metallic in there. The base is woods with light musk.
My favourite part of the perfume is the beginning ÷though I wished the Pomelo note was more true to the real fruit. I found this one quite anemic in comparison to the rest of the Ormonde Jayne line.
Top notes: Pomelo, Davana, Pimento
Heart notes: Osmanthus absolute, Water Lily, Jasmine Sambac
Base notes: Cedar Wood, Labdanum Resin, Musk, Vetiver
Generally speaking - the line is interestingly balancing modern notes with exotic and sultry notes. I think this is an original concept and an interesting way to present the modern people with something that is magical and originates in nature (most of Ormonde Jayne's inspirations seem to be derived form nature in far away lands ÷ except, perhaps, the Ormonde perfumes which can be easily associated with European or if you wish British landscapes ÷ thatÔs an interesting twist for the English violet!).
However, there are some synthetic notes in some of the perfumes that I find disturbing (especially in Sampaquita and Osmanthus).
There is something similar in many of the dry down - a subtle sweetness, ambery-sweet-powdery. I love that! It is especially apparent in Ormonde and TaÔif.
My favorite (nothing has changed since my visit to the store) is definitely Ta'if. I also like Champaca, Ormonde (for women), Frangipani and Tolu.
Frangipani may need to be revisited in the summer ÷ I think it will do better in a warm weather and maybe will capture me more by than.
Osmanthus, Sampaquita and Ormonde for Men I am ambivalent about or not quite interested in.