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  1. #1
    Ladylonestar
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    Default Barbara Bui, Oliban and Gourmandises

    This will be fairly short and sweet. I promised Buffalo Gal I would give my impressions since she was kind enough to send me decants, which I've pretty well depleted now. :-[ I found these "reviews" difficult to write because these fragrances were very uninspiring for me. All of them very nice, but I just wasn't wowed by any of them like I thought I would be. No imagery, no music... But, here goes:

    The first sniff of Barbara Bui and I thought I smelled opoponax so I thought this would be my new love. Sadly, it's got that intensely sweet white musk on drydown that seems to over-sweeten already sweet notes and overpower others. Barbara Bui is rich with heliotrope, amber, sandalwood, cedarwood, spices, jasmine and incense -- all good things and all things that I love. And yet, the strong, sweet musk makes for a very harsh drydown on my skin. With the right chemistry, I think Barbara Bui would be a gorgeous fragrance, however.

    My first test of Oliban I scribbled down my impressions: citrus/very orange-y opening, patchouli obvious throughout, cumin undercurrent, vague rose, agarwood or heavy wood, definite incense (like Chaos/Anarchy, M7). Oliban is one of those fragrances that starts off one direction then, depending on skin and chemistry, I suppose, heads off in another direction. The opening is always the same, but sometimes the drydown is not. It always opens sweet orange-patchouli-wood-incense and becomes drier and more intensely those things as it develops. And two or three times, this is how it remained. The rose is tricky -- definitely there one second, yet definitely gone the next. Sometimes. Two or three of my tests, however, the rose was so obvious on drydown, when Oliban is a leather-cedar-rose with a hint of incense -- quite nice. I think I would name it Gentlemen's Rose. While not an exact smell-alike, Oliban still reminds me very much of Anarchy, M7 and a little Black Cashmere, though more subdued than any of them.

    My first test of Gourmandises reminded me somewhat of L'Or de Torrente -- a very cedar-y rose. However, after two more tests, it's pretty much rose petal jam with just a hint of saffron, but it is unmistakably distinctly rose. While the opening is rich and sweet (and almost peppery), I really never get the praline or caramel I've read about, nor the powdery notes or white bitter almond. Perhaps I'm looking for Givenchy Pi or Hypnotic Poison strength bitter almond, I don't know... but I don't pick up the bitter almond. Very nice, but not remarkable.

    I was testing from dab-on vials, so full-on spray testing may very well have produced different results. Thanks again, Buffalo Gal, for giving me the opportunity to test these fragrances! :-*

  2. #2
    FufuLaRue's Avatar
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    Default Re: Barbara Bui, Oliban and Gourmandises

    Thanks for the fabulous reviews, LadyL! Gourmandises sounded slightly interesting to me...would like to hear other comments re these scents, too.
    "Too much of a good thing is wonderful." -- Mae West

  3. #3
    MJH
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    Default Re: Barbara Bui, Oliban and Gourmandises

    I haven't heard of Barbara Bui until now, but I've seen lots of little bits and pieces about Oliban and Gourmandises recently, but haven't really had 'images' of them until now. ╩Thank You! ╩:-*

    Quote Originally Posted by Ladylonestar
    The rose is tricky -- definitely there one second, yet definitely gone the next. Sometimes. Two or three of my tests, however, the rose was so obvious on drydown, when Oliban is a leather-cedar-rose with a hint of incense -- quite nice. I think I would name it Gentlemen's Rose. ╩While not an exact smell-alike, Oliban still reminds me very much of Anarchy, M7 and a little Black Cashmere, though more subdued than any of them.
    Loney, can you comment on the longevity on Oliban? I've only tried two Keiko Mecheri scents so far: Bois de Santal and A Fleur de Peau, and neither were really 'me'. But there was an enormous difference in lasting power: Bois de Santal seemed to disappear on my skin within an hour, while A Fleur de Peau lasted overnight and was still hanging on the next morning. ╩I almost fell for AFdP, but not quite. ╩I find I prefer a 'hint of rose' to a full-blown rose in most cases, so Oliban sounds intriguing to me.

  4. #4
    Ladylonestar
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    Default Re: Barbara Bui, Oliban and Gourmandises

    Mark, while I wasn't blown away by Oliban, it was (or is) an absolutely fascinating fragrance! I took the time to test it about six times, I think. As I said, I was using the little dabber, though I did use a good amount. Still I'm not sure this dab method is a true indicator of longevity. I could be wrong. Of these three fragrances, the one that had the greatest longevity was Gourmandises (which has a lovely "left-over from the day before" aroma), followed by Barbara Bui, and Oliban. Now... having said that.... Oliban is plenty long-lasting in this sense: It is a slow-developer, at least on my skin. When Oliban develops to the rose stage (if it will), it is here that it occurred to me it could be called "Gentlemen's Rose". Imagine a room of men, and leather club chairs and heavy wood tables and shelves, glasses of whiskey, cigar and cigarette smoke wafting through the room, and... vases and vases of roses set about the wooden tables. That's the single imagery that Oliban evokes for me.

    I think it's safe to say you would get a hint of rose, rather than a full-blown rose scent, with Oliban. It's not as if one is wearing a rose fragrance, but more that there is rose in the background from time to time. Hope that helps somewhat.

  5. #5
    cedriceccentric's Avatar
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    Default Re: Barbara Bui, Oliban and Gourmandises

    On www.barbarabui.com there is a parfum page (in french).

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    Default Re: Barbara Bui, Oliban and Gourmandises

    Thanks lady for giving your impressions. i wish I could have sent more for a fuller testing but I passed along samples given to me. I was not at all impressed with the Gourmandises and agree its misnamed........nothing really gourmand about it.

    I think Oliban is quite masculine and it works really well on me! Lasting power is great! I loved your description.
    It still reminds me of feminite de Bois for some reason.

    Oh the Barabara Bui is so delicious on me......I just ordered a bottle. No its not a knock my socks off scent but its a scent i could wear any time and has really great sillage on me and I find incredibly comforting & soothing. The dry down on me is the softest, lovliest Mysore Sandalwood......Creamy and light like a wispy version of Serge Lutens Santal mysore....has a bit of that coconut feel on me. Wish ut had worked better for you Lady!!

    Again, wish I had more at the time to send.

    Diane

  7. #7
    Ladylonestar
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    Default Re: Barbara Bui, Oliban and Gourmandises

    You sent me plenty, Buffalo Gal. I'm sorry if I sounded ungrateful. That was pretty sloppy of me. :-[ I was trying to emphasize I was working from dab-on rather than spray-on -- sometimes it seems to make a difference though I suppose it shouldn't.

    I haven't worn Feminite du Bois in quite awhile, but I had meant to compare it. I had also meant to compare Oliban to 10 Corso Como to see if there's a similarity to that one, also. But... Oliban has that rose note... when I can coax it out.

    Again, thank you!


  8. #8

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    Default Re: Barbara Bui, Oliban and Gourmandises

    Oh, I totally agree, there's definitely a difference in spray versus dab...I think just due to mere quantity.
    Quite a large surface area is covered while spraying and only a small area is covered with the dab on technique.
    I actually prefer less area covered.......anyway. I wonder if i just poured 1/2 sample vial on my arm and sprayed the other arm with the same perfume if it would smell the same....I'll have to do a little science project tonight and test out my theory MWAHAHAHAHA

    Mad scientist at play...LOL

  9. #9
    jacona's Avatar
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    Default Re: Barbara Bui, Oliban and Gourmandises

    I have a spray tester of Gourmandises. At first I get rose petal jam with a hint of powdery sweet almond, but in the dry down I get spicy saffron and touch of bitter almond. It looses almost all sweetness and the saffron is dominant. I was quite surprised since most people from the reviews I've read don't get the saffron much. I quite like it, but don't really love it at this point. I'll have to test it more.

  10. #10
    Ladylonestar
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    Default Re: Barbara Bui, Oliban and Gourmandises

    Jacona, I did get some saffron when I tested Gourmandises. :-[ ╩I'm sure I'll be sampling it again at some point and I'll probably get the bitter almond and the praline. ╩This happens sometimes.

    Edited to say what I originally meant to say in the first darned place, and that is that I just got a spray vial of it, too!

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