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  1. #1

    Default New: Micheal Kors Island.

    WWD Friday December 3, 2004
    Michael‚s New Kors: Launches With Lauder

    By Julie Naughton

    NEW YORK ų Michael Kors, one of America‚s most traveled designers, has come up with a fragrance concept that matches his wanderlust ų Island Michael Kors.

    It is the first scent to be launched since the Estée Lauder Cos. acquired the charismatic designer‚s fragrance license from LVMH MoĎt Hennessy Louis Vuitton in May 2003. The fragrance will be launched this spring.

    [img]
    http://www.wwd.com/images/articles/120304_1.jpg[/img]

    „And I think I‚ll do personal appearances only in places that are islands ų like Capri and Hawaii,š Kors cracked during a recent interview at his Midtown headquarters. Noting that he grew up on an island ų „Long Island, that isš ų Kors professes to have an affinity for them. „I now live in Manhattan, vacation in Capri, the Caribbean ų the connecting thread is an island theme,š he said. „An island can be a total escape, it can be glamorous, it can be suburban. There‚s something about seeing a horizon that gives you a change of perspective.š

    Kors‚ first scent, the tuberose-infused Michael Kors, was first released by LVMH in September 2000, followed by a men‚s version in September 2001. A second women‚s fragrance, Kors Michael Kors, was released by LVMH in February 2003 and is no longer being produced. But Kors obviously believes the third time‚s the charm.

    „There‚s room for more than one,š said Kors of his scent lineup. „The first fragrance was all about intense indulgence. This one‚s all about casual living ų you can wear it to the gym, or you can wear it to a black-tie event. It‚s like your astrological sign. You have your sun sign and your rising sign. This scent is my rising sign.š (For the record, Kors is a Leo with Aquarius rising.)

    The juice, developed by the Estée Lauder Cos.‚ Karyn Khoury in cooperation with International Flavors and Fragrances, opens with notes of Kauai waterfalls, oxygenated water and Chinese kiwi; relaxes into a middle accord of hydroponic honeysuckle, parrot tulip, champaca flowers, ginger lily, shimmering Bulgarian rose and stephanotis, and dries down with white bark accord, Galapagos driftwood and rice fields.

    The collection will include eaux de parfum in two sizes ų 1.7 oz. and 3.4 oz. for $60 and $75, respectively ų and a solid perfume pendant for $45.

    Four ancillaries also will be marketed, including a $45 body lotion, a $40 shower gel and a $45 body oil spray. Kors‚ personal favorite, however, is Ocean Bath Soak, a $55 bath salt that looks like beach sand but transforms water into a rich turquoise when it is added to the bath. And, as a bonus, it doesn‚t stain tubs, „which my housekeeper is very happy to hear,š Kors said. And its color even coordinates with Kors‚ latest apparel plans ų its vivid turquoise is a shade he used in abundance in his spring collection.

    The rectangular, heavy-glass fragrance bottle has a bottom resembling waves of turquoise glass, with a silver-tone plate with the Island moniker on the side. The outer box is of turquoise linen with a silver-tone plate denoting the scent name. „Packaging has to be more than just a container ų it also has to be a beautiful object,š Kors said. „What I like about this packaging is that every way you look at it, it‚s interesting.š

    To that point, even the gifts-with-purchase are what Kors calls „pragmatic luxuriesš ų reusable linen luggage tags, a turquoise jewelry roll and a drawstring bag that doubles as a jewelry pouch.

    Island Michael Kors launches in April in the U.S. and globally a few months later. It will be in selective distribution ų about 350 doors ų at its launch, including Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom and select Sephora doors. Distribution will widen gradually, with a total of 1,200 U.S. doors expected by October 2005. The rollout is designed to inaugurate a new strategy that Fabrice Weber, president of Aramis and Designer Fragrances, and Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, the division‚s senior vice president and general manager, have for the brand ų which is to whittle its U.S. distribution from its current breadth, about 1,700 doors, to a maximum of 1,200.

    National print advertising, which breaks in April fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, features actress Molly Sims on a Malibu beach ų „which doesn‚t fit the island theme, I admit, but it‚s pretty,š Kors confessed.



    While none of the executives would comment on projected sales or advertising spending, industry sources estimated that the scent could do $25 million at retail in the U.S. its first year ų with an additional $25 million expected globally ų and that about $6 million would be spent on U.S. advertising and promotion in the same time frame. Upward of 30 million scented impressions are expected to be made.

    As for a men‚s counterpart to the offering, stay tuned: „There‚s definitely room for a man on the island,š said Weber with a laugh.

  2. #2
    Serpent
    Guest

    Default Re: New: Micheal Kors Island.

    I smell a wishy-washy, fakey plastic bilgewater Kool-Aid floral. Beyond Beyond Paradise, anyone?

  3. #3

    Default Re: New: Micheal Kors Island.

    Well, I have loved all of his scents so far. Michael for Men is a great suede scent, Michael for Women is a glorious gardenia and incense scent and Kors is an unusual Port Wine scent...I wear all three. Can't wait to see what Khoury has come up with for Island.

    marlen

  4. #4

    Default Re: New: Micheal Kors Island.

    Karyn Khourys style is to use way to many ingrediants that end up smelling like nothing at all.

  5. #5
    Serpent
    Guest

    Default Re: New: Micheal Kors Island.

    Michael Kors' eponymous scents just attempt to defang and make as bland as possible two of the most controversial notes in perfumery: tuberose (not gardenia) for women and patchouli for men.  Compared to the creamy, voluptuous tuberose masterpiece that is Fracas - or even the monstrous, take-no-prisoners tuberose of Carolina Herrera - the women's Michael is a timid kitten of a tuberose scent, a bland, safe little fragrance that leaves no impression other than being "nice."  Ditto his men's scent.  His fragrances are textbook examples of the philosophy behind American perfumery, namely, to be as inoffensive and pleasant as possible - and nothing more.  They take no risks, and they leave no impression other than being, well, inoffensive and pleasant.

    I'm sure Island will succeed marvelously at being inoffensive and pleasant and absolutely nothing more.

  6. #6
    MJH
    Guest

    Default Re: New: Micheal Kors Island.??}

    Quote Originally Posted by cedriceccentric
    Karyn Khourys style is to use way to many ingrediants that end up smelling like nothing at all.
    Edit away the trifles, and you end up with something like this:
    Quote Originally Posted by cedriceccentric
    The juice, developed by the Estée Lauder Cos.‚ Karyn Khoury in cooperation with International Flavors and Fragrances, opens with notes of [s]Kauai waterfalls, oxygenated[/s] water [s]and Chinese[/s] kiwi; [s]relaxes into a middle accord of hydroponic[/s] honeysuckle, [s]parrot[/s] tulip, champaca flowers, ginger lily, [s]shimmering[/s] Bulgarian rose and stephanotis, [s]and dries down with[/s] white bark accord {??}, [s]Galapagos[/s] driftwood and rice fields {??}.
    ....which doesn't sound like much at all.... :

  7. #7
    Serpent
    Guest

    Default Re: New: Micheal Kors Island.

    Rice fields? So it smells like a paddy? Like a watery patch of manure and grass bugs and smelly farmhands have been slogging through all day? Sign me up!

  8. #8

    Default Re: New: Micheal Kors Island.??}

    Quote Originally Posted by MJH
    Edit away the trifles, and you end up with something like this:
    ....which doesn't sound like much at all.... :
    ;D

    Sounds like yet another add-slices-of-watery fruit-to-a-bowl-of-water-shake-and-sift kind of frag. :-/
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darŁber muss man schreiben."

  9. #9

    Default Re: New: Micheal Kors Island.

    I'm with Serp. Don't sound like much.

  10. #10

    Default Re: New: Micheal Kors Island.

    Wow? You guys really don't care for these scents, huh? I totally respect your opinions...but I feel a little surprised because I love all three so much.

    Michael for women is not just tuberose but a wonderful incense and vanilla blend accompanies it.

    Michael for Men reminds me a lot of Donna Karan Fuel but accentuates the patchouli and suede notes which I really like.

    And Kors is one of my favorite comfort scents with that great port wine note. I absolutely love it and the drydown is wonderful on me.

    Now, I hope I'm not making fragrance enemies, but I found all three scents to be unique among the current trends of fruit and aqua scents. They were bold and sumptuous, in my opinion.

    As for the rice notes in Island - well, here in Japan, we all have rice cookers, and when the rice is ready and the steam is seeping from the spout in the cooker a wonderful creamy sweet note is released. It's present in CSP's Rizieres and Kenzo's Rice line...

    marlen

  11. #11

    Default Re: New: Micheal Kors Island.

    Marlen, Ormonde Jayne Champaca has a delicious basmati rice note but a rice fields note does not sound very good to me. :P
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darŁber muss man schreiben."

  12. #12
    Serpent
    Guest

    Default Re: New: Micheal Kors Island.

    Tigs is dead on with the rice fields thing.  Look who's got the Kors license, kids:  Estée Lauder.  Look at the theme here: a tropical island.  And let's re-examine that rice fields thing again.  Does it remind you of anything?  Maybe, say, the Eden Project?  Maybe - I don't know? - Eden's Mist?  The smell of a rice paddy is incorporated like the smell of an ersatz biodome rainforest in Cornwall?

    Seriously, folks, Island is almost certain to be Beyond Paradise 2: Eden's Mist Strikes Back.

    And Galapagos driftwood?  Really, how does Galapagos driftwood smell all that different from, say, Hawaiian driftwood, Cayman Islands driftwood, or Icelandic driftwood?  It's driftwood!  Driftwood smells like driftwood!  It's time someone sits down and passes a law governing the overly florid and ridiculous language they use in these perfume write-ups, especially as the "driftwood" chemicals they're using probably never left the lab in Delaware or Neuilly or Yokohama.  Galapagos driftwood!  Sheesh...

  13. #13

    Default Re: New: Micheal Kors Island.

    The trend at Estee Lauder, since Pleasures, is to use "headspace" or "living-flower-technology" in everything, so much so that I feel there isn't any natural ingrediant in their compositions.

    "Rice fields", "driftwood", "waterfalls" or whatever it's all synthetic. Also when you see lily of the valley, freesia, gardenia...  listed as ingrediants it's all fake because those flowers don't give a drop essence. I'm ok with synthetics but not when used in overdose like most scents Karyn Khoury worked on lately.

    BTW: Micheal is a good scent in my opinion, I like it better to the similar (tuberose/vanilla) Gaultier Fragile.

  14. #14

    Default Re: New: Micheal Kors Island.

    Although it sounds awful to me, I think it'll be popular in my area. There's a market for everything, I suppose. Michael is pretty popular around here. Occasionally, I'll sniff Angel or Fendi on someone, but that's about as different as it gets... "Niche" scents? Fuhgeddaboudit!

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