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  1. #1
    DustB's Avatar
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    Default House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Everyone,
    This is our attempt to revive the “house referendum” thread idea. A couple years ago Paul G. started this fine idea. We did it twice, first with Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, second with Calvin Klein. In each case Paul started the house referendum thread and plenty of members contributed reviews, reactions, thoughts, experiences, doubts, triumphs, and the usual Internetesque-any-thought-that-came-to-mind and needed to be added. Paul made the thread sticky at the top of the forum. That’s exactly what we’re going to do again. After this L’Artisan thread has been sticky for a week or it looses its steam we’ll take it down and maybe a month later referendumize whatever the next house will be. (This thread here, however, isn’t the place to discuss what other houses should be done or when.)

    Some members can think of unities between the house’s scents, some can argue quality, some can argue they’re breaking nose ground, some can argue they should be buried in the ground. Some members are you. You can post your own referendum on the house here. Everyone can contribute and each part and thought will make the whole of this thread mightier. You know one of their scents? You can contribute. (Maybe you know none of their scents, but what do you think the stuff might smell like having never smelled it--only having read words about its smell?)

    Everyone can think of one little part to add to the house referendum thread. So get to it.
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  2. #2
    DustB's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    L’Artisan Parfumeur is the quintessential “niche” house. Its expense, its packaging, its unisexness, its hard-to-get-ness, its French-ness, its cutting edge-ness (really?), all set it apart as a special milestone in our contemporary scent style availability scene.

    It’s also the first non-department store perfume house I discovered. It’s probably the model every small house out there tries to follow and wishes to become. Last week I was in a scent shop talking with its owner who’s a buddy. He said Molinard had been in lately trying to get him to carry their line. “What’s their new thing?,” he asked. “Two hundred dollar Lalique bottles? That’s their new revival gimmick?” I said they’re one of my favorite low-level old house makers, and they’ve probably sat by and watched L’Artisan skyrocket, carving out a prestige corner of the market, getting all the fashionable attention, and Molinard management slapped themselves and said damn-that-should-be-us! Now they’re trying to get in the prestige brand artisanal scent corner. Nice mod, colorful, sample paper clips too. Let’s market to get some L’Artisan chic, they must be saying. “They’re too late,” said my friend the scent shop owner.

    The beauty of this house referendum is that everyone can contribute. Some can do two sentence reviews of L’Artisan stuff, and some can do twenty paragraphs on one scent. The house has a few dozen scents for sale, but has discontinued a good number in its short history. Some members can review those discontinued ones and give us a sense of what we’re missing. Or not missing. Nothing, or no post, needs to be perfect or definitive either.

    Got fragrance?
    --Chris
    Last edited by DustB; 1st July 2006 at 05:17 AM.
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  3. #3

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    L'Artisan was, also, the first 'niche house' that I found outside of Creed and Comme Des Garcons, which are department store sold. It is my favorite of all the houses and designers that make fragrance.

    I love how unique and beautiful these smells are. Beautiful may not seem like a word for describing a smell but you don't always have to see beauty to recognize its presence. This house has chosen a simple, yet lovely style of bottle and box to house thier precious juice. I like simplicity and grace. The bottles are all easy to hold. All of them are because they are all the same shape! Nice black boxes with the name of the perfume keeps the light out while adding a presence among the sea of other fragrances.

    People claim this house to produce fragrances with not enough sillage or longevity. I dissagree with this. I think they wear closer to the skin than those with sillage and take over the room. These are not obnoxious fragrances that get in other peoples faces. They are a fragrance wearers fragrance. They are to normal wearers as a great glass of wine is to the unappreciative drinker. I think that a fragrance does not need to take over the room to get the desired effect. These are made to be deeply appreciated by the wearer rather than to impress the noses of others. They have sillage but more of a two person sillage...

    I own:
    Mechant Loup
    Tea for Two
    Patchouli Patch

    My two favorite fragrances of all times are L'Artisan made. They are Tea for Two and Mechant Loup. They are both at the very top for me and have not reliquished this status ever since they got their.

    Tea for Two - It is considered a oriental by many but I would give it a very special category fit just for this one fragrance. It is not that sweet, and contains so vanilla like a typical oriental. Instead it contains honey, tea leaves, woody/inscense, and a smokey note. It is a nice year round fragrance but I find it best in the fall when this dark and mysterious scent can shine. It is very seductive, which means great for dates. It is never cloying. It is light but always there. It lasts forever on me but wears a medium closeness to the skin. It is the perfect blend of seduction, class, and beauty all in one. This is my perfect fragrance.

    Voleur de Roses - I find it to be a wonderful blend betweend something spicey and a little fresh, like the green smell of rose stems. It seems to have a faint wood smell but overall it is very rosey and earthy smelling. I found it good even on chilly, rainy days. It is best as a spring scent IMO. I really like its uniqueness. It is a lovely fragrance that is wonderful for men, even though it is a rose scent and those are typically seen as feminine. Top 5 on my list for sure.

    There is no end to L'Artisan's perfection...

    PS ~ for those who actually read my ramblings, try to keep this L'Artisan related. It is getting off topic with Creed and annoying nature. I want this to be informative for people, not a debat about Creeds...
    Last edited by EnvYuS; 14th July 2006 at 12:24 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur


    Uncanny timing. This morning two decants arrived from Gerald in Germany, The Pour un Ete and Voleur de Roses. This will be my first L'Artisan experience. Can't wait to try em...

    ......Also.....

    .......I love the name of this house. In my opinion Perfumers, musicians, and canvas decorators, actors etc are craftspeople. Art is a concept of comodifaction. Artisans are honest working people.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

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  5. #5
    Joel_Cairo's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder
    .......I love the name of this house. In my opinion Perfumers, musicians, and canvas decorators, actors etc are craftspeople. Art is a concept of comodifaction. Artisans are honest working people.
    I really think you have hit upon something here, hirch, to which DustB initially alluded by calling L'Artisan the "quintessential niche house". L'Artisan has got to be the best-branded line of fragrances I have ever encountered. L'Artisan is, to me, one of the two most easy-access niche houses (the other being Creed). These are the two to which one is drawn when one ventures past the designers, the "pop-niche" houses if you will. Between the two of them, i think they neatly encapsulate all that we associate with perfumery: "aesthetics" and "class".

    Creed has clearly chosen the "classy" road: with their snobby price point, their formal conservatism, the quality of their "all natural" ingredients,their holier-than-advertising (save covert product placement in magazines like Forbes and Cargo) stance and endlessly-touted association with royalty (various Kings, Cary Grant, etc). Creed has based their branding upon the perception of scents as noble and dapper and refined.

    L'Artisan has positioned themselves at the other end of the spectrum, as romantic and poetical and, yes, "aesthetic conceptualisations". L'Artisan self-evidently regards perfumery as an art form, more than a ritual of gentlemanly grooming, and seems to be after a communicative kind of scent. They "tell stories", from stealing roses off a fresh grave under cover of night, to bustling among the folksy warmth of a circus crowd, to being crazy messed up on absinthe, to rapacious lupine prowling. L'Artisans are evocative in the literal sense. At the best, they are downright hallucinagenic.

    Great thread guys, I'm off to spray my L'Arts so I can contribute more in-depth to the conversation.

  6. #6

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    My introduction to L'Artisan Parfumeur was with Mechant Loup. It struck me as a being original in a quite pleasant way. Alas the rest of line didn't quite agree with me: Ambre Extreme turned out to be cloying, Dzing turned out to be synthetic on my skin, etc...

    However, the line is somewhat unorthodox, is willing to explore new areas of olfactory realm and could have satisfied my wanderlust if the rest of the line had been in par with Mechant Loup.
    "Whereof one cannot speak, one must remain silent thereof." --Wittgenstein

  7. #7
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by Joel_Cairo
    I really think you have hit upon something here, hirch, to which DustB initially alluded by calling L'Artisan the "quintessential niche house". L'Artisan has got to be the best-branded line of fragrances I have ever encountered. L'Artisan is, to me, one of the two most easy-access niche houses (the other being Creed). These are the two to which one is drawn when one ventures past the designers, the "pop-niche" houses if you will. Between the two of them, i think they neatly encapsulate all that we associate with perfumery: "aesthetics" and "class".

    Creed has clearly chosen the "classy" road: with their snobby price point, their formal conservatism, the quality of their "all natural" ingredients,their holier-than-advertising (save covert product placement in magazines like Forbes and Cargo) stance and endlessly-touted association with royalty (various Kings, Cary Grant, etc). Creed has based their branding upon the perception of scents as noble and dapper and refined.

    L'Artisan has positioned themselves at the other end of the spectrum, as romantic and poetical and, yes, "aesthetic conceptualisations". L'Artisan self-evidently regards perfumery as an art form, more than a ritual of gentlemanly grooming, and seems to be after a communicative kind of scent. They "tell stories", from stealing roses off a fresh grave under cover of night, to bustling among the folksy warmth of a circus crowd, to being crazy messed up on absinthe, to rapacious lupine prowling. L'Artisans are evocative in the literal sense. At the best, they are downright hallucinagenic.

    Great thread guys, I'm off to spray my L'Arts so I can contribute more in-depth to the conversation.
    Great observation...I agree !

  8. #8

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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I love l'Artisan, although the scents from them I like the best are not very long-lasting (Ananas Fizz for example). I can think of no other house (Serge Lutens included) who would market something as delirious as Piment Brulant: the only other house I can think of who would try that is Demeter and they would go for the obvious Pizza connection. I think they deserve major kudos for going out on that limb. Dzing? Tea for Two? Safran Troublant? Brilliant!

  9. #9
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    ...
    Last edited by pluran; 18th October 2007 at 09:02 AM.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by stuigi
    The recent "tournament" to pick a favorite frag may be a good format for finding the preferred niche house. The key to a good "seeded" tournament is to put the pre-tournament favorites in opposite brackets as #1 seeds. Maybe L'Artisan and Serge Lutens? Are there really more than twelve or so highly regarded niche houses? BTW- Creed would definitely not qualify since almost every perfume store under the sun sells their line. Exclusivity is obviously one of the criteria. Maybe:

    SL vs. L'Artisan
    Diptyque F. Malle
    MPG C. Christian
    Lorenzo Villoresi Montale
    +???
    Creed isnt that commonly found everywhere...amongst online stores, MPG/Annick Goutal can be easily found wherever Creeds are sold. There was a recent thread discussing this exact topic. Also, designer houses dont create custom perfumes...something which Creed is majorly based upon. So theres another criteria for you to consider.

  11. #11

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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Dzing! was the scent that made me want to know more about L'Artisan Parfumeur. It was love at first sniff and Dzing! is still among my L'Artisan favourites. It always makes me think of a draughty attic and cuddling with a cat, it has a warm furry smell in addition to the strange and wonderful sawdust note. Since Dzing! is very unique, innovative and evocative it was the perfect introduction to the house.

    My next L'Artisan love was Voleur de Roses that perfectly captures the smell of a charmingly unkempt garden with rose bushes and plum trees after a warm summer rainpour. The smell of warm, moist earth, that dirty patchouli note is what makes VdR what it is.

    Another wonderful example of L'Artisan trademark style is Tea for Two: it's hard to imagine a more perfect autumn/winter warmer than this gingery, spicy, honeyed tea scent!

    Like T42, Jour de Fête is also a comfort scent but better for spring/summer. It's light and lovely, soft and almondy, sweet and milky.

    When speaking of L'Artisan it's impossible to pass Passage d'Enfer which carries the name of L'Artisan street address. PdE is a Roman Catholic church in a bottle, incense and white lilies.

    Bois Farine is weird and wonderful and the most elegant and sophisticated of L'Artisan scents. I adore this unsweetened, nutty, powdery fragrance.

    It took me time to get the house bestseller, Mûre et Musc, but it finally got me. The simple combo of blackberry and musk works wonders. MeM is a great easy-to-wear and all-round scent. You can wear it anytime, anywhere on any occasion. Beacuse it also exist in EdP aka extrême form, you can easily stretch it into an evening scent after work.

    My latest L'Artisan love is Timbuktu which catapulted into my TOP 5 favourite office scents. The combination of mango, vetiver and incense is pure genius: it cheers you up and calms you down.

    Still a couple of words of the packaging: I'm sad they are changing the shape of the bottle, I love it the way it is. I've always loved their simple and effective idea of marking both the scent bottles and the black boxes with different-coloured ribbons and symbols printed in gold. Needless to add, Dzing! is my favourite...

    EDIT:
    Forgot to mention gorgeous Ambre Extrême which is one of my favourite amber scents (along with SL Ambre Sultan, MPG Ambre Précieux, Ex Voto Ambre Profond and Etro Ambra), very rich and warm, "old-fashioned" and traditional.

    People often complain about the staying power of L'Artisan scents, I guess I'd better count myself lucky because I don't have a problem with their longevity.
    Last edited by tigrushka; 1st July 2006 at 05:53 AM.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  12. #12

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    L'Artisan Perfumeur
    I have tried from this house Dzing, Mechant Loup, Passage en enfer, Patchouli Patch, Ananas Fizz, Voleur des Roses and own Tea for Two.
    What I take away from my experience with this house so far is a dedicated quixoticism. It is the ultimate branded Niche as far as I am concerned and determined to remain so. Even though widely available and accessable, this is a house very much married to an artistic outsider-ism.
    L'artisan to me is concerned mostly with an avant-garde approach to artisanal perfumery. Even when, as is the case for me with Mechant Loup, the verbal solution of the frag is far more edgy than its actual composition. I find the fragrances almost across the board to be an intellectual experience grounded in pushing boundaries and re-imagining classic formulas. The only fault I would ever find with L'artisan is an occasional self conscious oddness in contrast to the joyful wierdness of CdG.
    All of these that I have tried are undeniably of quality. The compositions inventive and the scents individual. Although they wear close to the skin I find no fault with that and indeed it seems to be a mark of nichier compositions.
    For myself I appreciate smelling these fragrances but do not find joy in wearing them. With the exceptions of TfT and VdR there is a certain lyricism and romance missing from these frags. Being a person most drawn to these elements in a frag I'm left a bit cold I admire VdR greatly but it does not make a good match with my skin. TfT however I enjoy immensely on several levels. The others for me are a bit too much an achievement of the intellect and a bit too little one of the soul.
    L'artisan for me is an important and distinguished house although not a sentimental favorite of my own.
    These are just my thoughts so far and I always reserve the right to completely change my mind.
    m
    p.s. it's threads like these that make basenotes such a wonderful place.

  13. #13

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    l'artisan is a great house my personal favorites are

    voleur de roses
    drole de rose
    bois farine
    premiere figuier extreme
    ambre extreme
    oeillet sauvage
    l'orchidee blanche my no'1
    safran troublant
    vanille
    tea for two
    dzing
    passage d'enfer

  14. #14

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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I am sorry having to perhaps shatter what was reality yesterday, but may be just another illusion now: when one of our four major department stores re-opended their perfume floor this spring, they surprised the public with a special counter where you find some niche brands side by side, L'Artisan Parfumeur amidst them.

    Switzerland is a regular test market for world players, prestige brands in particular. The multi-lingual character of this market, non-membership of the EU, and the Swiss Frank (not Euro) seem to be ideal conditions for such test operations. Maybe you will never find L'Artisan's in Department stores of your country, more likely you will however! In contrast, Comme de Garcons may sell CDG 2 via rather unselect channels, but are otherwise not available in any department store here.

    Luca Turins comments on niche houses in the Galieries Lafayette opened that door for me, and I wonder if L'Artisan have established themselves there, too. Frenchness is no niche criterion for perfume making, not as long as Villoresi and SMN are on my mind. 'Niche' does not necessarily mean 'superior' even, it simply means: far off main roads!

    Even if I do not like a particular shoe, I can recognise the superiority of its quality. And without any doubt, L'Artisans products are exquisit! My all time favorite perfume is a L'Artisan, and I recognise the same grand style also in Passage D'Enfer. PdE suffers only from a misinterpretation of its name by many non Parisians. Freed of that, it is a wonderful, totally wearable, slightly female cologne. Men who like lighter floral incense, should try it. I cannot imagine that they might incite raised eyebrows. As has been said by EnvyYous initially, L'Artisan's are for yourself and have more like a two person sillage!
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Creed and L'Artisan are tied in my wardrobe for the best represented houses, with ten each. IMO, they are both great niche houses, but I see Creed as the nichest of the niche. Don't know why; don't ask; that's just the way I see it.

    For sheer hallucinogenic power, I would have to vote for Serge Lutens or perhaps some of the ouds of Pierrre Montale.

    Mais, revenons à ces moutons... of the L'Artisan group, my faves are:

    Timbuktu (I'm very partial to woody orientals);
    Passage d'Enfer (ditto);
    Méchant Loup;
    Fou d'Absinthe;
    Voleur de Roses;
    L'Eau de l'Artisan.

    Et voilà!
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

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  16. #16

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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by marczilla
    L'Artisan Perfumeur ... it's threads like these that make basenotes such a wonderful place.
    I second that
    - splendid idea
    - favorite subject
    - great posts !
    Last edited by narcus; 1st July 2006 at 12:30 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  17. #17

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I've tried only four L'Artisans... but they were all great.

    As a fan of gourmands, Dzing! has to be a new fave of mine thanks to its sawdust notes balanced out by smooth candy notes. My only wish was that it lasted longer than 4 hours.

    Tea for Two is probably the best tea scent I have worn... smooth honey and warm, smoky tea... absolutely divine. Probably the best lognevity out of all the L'Artisans, too.

    L'eau de L'Artisan is a nice mint/tea/woods scent... but the longevity here is as bad as Dzing!

    Last, but not least, I was blown away by Fou d'Absinthe. Totally different from anything else in my collection... the heat and the cold "fight" each other in this scent. The longevity is good, too... I can see myself getting a bottle of this in the future.

    (I also have a sample of Mure et Musc, but I haven't tried it yet.)
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  18. #18

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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    L'Artisan was also my first Niche love. I was a basenotes embyro--lurking. I got a sample of Mimosa pour Moi and it blew me away. I'd never smelled anything like it, and I was stunned by the idea that there might be more thrill-in-bottle scents out there. Heh, heh, and there were! I love simple florals, love transparent scents (and Serge Lutens, too.) Sometimes on basenotes I feel like the only art fan that prefers a delicate watercolor over a Rembrant or Picasso. Again crediting Luca for the metaphor, children paint watercolors but not all watercolors are painted in kindergarten. A masterwork is just that much more divine to me.

    Verte Violette is also a favorite of mine--it's so bright and green, just a perfect expression of the sort of tweak it up 'til it's totally new vibe I seem to love.

    Timbuktu--hmmmm, not my style really....but did I stop sniffing my sample over and over and over, wearing tiny bits on my wrist just for me? Nope. And a sort of panic set in when I watched my sample running lower and lower.....


    I guess I love L'Artisan for that reason. They consistantly have surprised my nose. Lutens is great and I own more SL, but L'Artisan has such originality and variety. If I had to wear one house the rest of my life, I wouldn't choose SL---I'd go L'Artisan, baby! YEAH!
    Please, spritz responsibly.

  19. #19
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    Red face Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    My first encounter with L`Artisan was a sample from Stu with Mure et Musc Extreme. Love at first sniff! Read some about this house on BN, and ordered a set with Mure et Musc, La Chasse aux Papillons, Passage D`Enfer and Premier Figuier from Lusciouscargo (which, btw, never arrived...). Also ordered samples from Ausliebezumduft (First-in-Fragrance), since I thought all L`Artisans must smell like heaven.
    I was wrong!
    I have tried Mure et Musc, MeME, Vanilia, Mimosa pour Moi, Voleur de Roses, Dzing!, Ambre Extreme, Verte Violette, Piment Brulant, Poivre Piquant, Safran Troublant, Ananas Fizz and Fou d`Absinthe, so far, and I can just say: I like Mure et Musc, LOVE MeME, the rest I barely find wearable.
    I once made a little "cocktail", in a decant, of Vanilia, Safran Troublant, Poivre Piquant and (I think) Ambre Extreme. Shaked well, and left it alone to the following day, when I sprayed on some. It didn`t exactly smell divine, but better that each scent did individually...This is not a final "judgement", since I have so many more scents from L`Artisan yet to test.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by Chicat
    Timbuktu--hmmmm, not my style really....but did I stop sniffing my sample over and over and over, wearing tiny bits on my wrist just for me? Nope. And a sort of panic set in when I watched my sample running lower and lower.....
    Same story here. With so many samples I can take it or leave it... I'll wear it once or twice and forget about it... but even with L'Artisanas that weren't my bag (Mechant Loup, PdE), I just kept coming back and resniffing. In some cases, like Bois Farine, an enchanted love would develop from a negative initial encounter (which rarely happens with me; my first impressions tend to stick) in other cases, I'd just keep reapplying and sniffing anyway! i can't explain it! The only sample vials I haven't worn to the last drop, whether or not I ended up liking them, are ones I tossed, half-full, into outgoing swaps.

  21. #21

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    If this is in this thread already, I apologize. I would like someone to do a review of Fou d'Absinthe by L'Artisan. This fragrances sounds intriguing but I would like to hear what a member has to say about it.

  22. #22
    Joel_Cairo's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by Fragrant Counterpoint
    If this is in this thread already, I apologize. I would like someone to do a review of Fou d'Absinthe by L'Artisan. This fragrances sounds intriguing but I would like to hear what a member has to say about it.
    If you do a search, you'll find reviews in some recent threads, but here is mine:
    Fou d’Absinth
    Heavily louched and with a generous cube of sugar on the straining spoon, L’Artisan’s rendering of this legendary elixir is a much more approachable concoction than its spirituous namesake. Absinth’s infamous bitter anise bite has been considerably tempered in Fou d’Absinthe, yielding a result which I find to be somewhat sweet, as green fragrances go. At the top there is a very brief alcoholic note, but one which reminds me more of rich eggnog than the brittle smack of Absinth. It has a pronounced herbal body throughout which, in keeping with the house’s reputation, smells unimpeachably natural. There are traces of spices which I think my nose found in Egoiste. FdA’s much advertised hot/cold sensation, presumably a kind of homage to the burn of a good stiff swig, recalls rather the cold/hot feeling of rinsing off shaving foam and splashing on aftershave. I find something strongly reminiscent of shaving in it (there’s a certain kinship with YSL’s Rive Gauche here). That’s actually the dominant scent-image I get from this particular L’Artisan, making FdA the most masculine but also most conventional fragrance I know of from this house. Rather than seeming illicit or hallucinogenic, FdA’s cocktail of cool herbs and warm spice struck me as rather well-behaved and gentlemanly. Quite “sober” in fact. It’s closer to the image of the prodigious, aspirational petit-bourgeois Jules Cheret than to the indulgent fallen-aristocrat/gonzo bohemian persona of Toulouse-Lautrec (If it’s the seedy decadence of Moulin Rouge you’re after, see rather L’Artisan’s Dzing!).

    To be sure, FdA is an excellent fragrance - with the best projection I have found among L’Artisans- and were it released by any other house, I’d call it an unqualified triumph. It certainly is intoxicating – devastatingly handsome, remarkably refined and positively humming with quality- but just not in the way I was expecting. Given L’Artisan’s unique reputation for mind-bendingly evocative scents that play not just upon the nose but also the imagination and memory, I was hoping their interpretation of the Green Fairy would have been just a bit more psychoactive. “Crazy for Absinthe” is a bit too respectable; I wanted more visuals.

  23. #23

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by Joel_Cairo
    If you do a search, you'll find reviews in some recent threads, but here is mine:
    Fou d’Absinth
    Heavily louched and with a generous cube of sugar on the straining spoon, L’Artisan’s rendering of this legendary elixir is a much more approachable concoction than its spirituous namesake. Absinth’s infamous bitter anise bite has been considerably tempered in Fou d’Absinthe, yielding a result which I find to be somewhat sweet, as green fragrances go. At the top there is a very brief alcoholic note, but one which reminds me more of rich eggnog than the brittle smack of Absinth. It has a pronounced herbal body throughout which, in keeping with the house’s reputation, smells unimpeachably natural. There are traces of spices which I think my nose found in Egoiste. FdA’s much advertised hot/cold sensation, presumably a kind of homage to the burn of a good stiff swig, recalls rather the cold/hot feeling of rinsing off shaving foam and splashing on aftershave. I find something strongly reminiscent of shaving in it (there’s a certain kinship with YSL’s Rive Gauche here). That’s actually the dominant scent-image I get from this particular L’Artisan, making FdA the most masculine but also most conventional fragrance I know of from this house. Rather than seeming illicit or hallucinogenic, FdA’s cocktail of cool herbs and warm spice struck me as rather well-behaved and gentlemanly. Quite “sober” in fact. It’s closer to the image of the prodigious, aspirational petit-bourgeois Jules Cheret than to the indulgent fallen-aristocrat/gonzo bohemian persona of Toulouse-Lautrec (If it’s the seedy decadence of Moulin Rouge you’re after, see rather L’Artisan’s Dzing!).

    To be sure, FdA is an excellent fragrance - with the best projection I have found among L’Artisans- and were it released by any other house, I’d call it an unqualified triumph. It certainly is intoxicating – devastatingly handsome, remarkably refined and positively humming with quality- but just not in the way I was expecting. Given L’Artisan’s unique reputation for mind-bendingly evocative scents that play not just upon the nose but also the imagination and memory, I was hoping their interpretation of the Green Fairy would have been just a bit more psychoactive. “Crazy for Absinthe” is a bit too respectable; I wanted more visuals.

    Great review Joel! It sounds like something to try out for sure! Now, let me sprint to the phone and see what I can do about a sample!

  24. #24

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    L'artisan are available in department stores in the u.k. (i saw some at fenwick, brent cross)

    I tried the pour un ete this morning and was underwhelmed . I will definately try it again before I pass judgement though.
    Last edited by hirch_duckfinder; 1st July 2006 at 09:21 PM.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

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  25. #25

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I was introduced to this fine house about 15 years ago by a friend that worked at a store in the Crescent Hotel in Dallas (Stanley Korshack). She raved about this fragrance house and demanded that I try one. She was known to send bottles to me and let me try them knowing full well I would keep them and then have to pay. My first bottle was called Incroyable, and had notes of plum and blond tobacco. It was heavenly but has long been discontinued. I asked about this and it turns out that ingredients for fragrances come and go and when an ingredient can't be bought, they must discontinue the fragrance. There was another L'artisan fragrance that captured my heart and I believe it was called simply Hesperides which was loaded with neroli and citrus. It smelled like clean laundry dried in the sun. There was another one called Caporal that was oak moss and talk about sillage and longevity! I believe this might be the king of all times. There was a patchouli that came out about 10 years ago that was also killer (not the watered down Patchouli Patch that is unsure if it's really patchouli or not). This one smelled like a funky hippy might have smelled in the late 60's--pure earthy goodness. L'artisan also had an orange and cinnamon (don't remember the name) and one based on celery seed (yuck). Anyway, I must also add at this point that Jean Laporte, when he sold L'artisan, created MPG (don't know the french but it's Master Perfumer and Glover in English) and recreated most of the same scents but made slight alterations therefore his old L'artisan Vetiver smells almost exactly like MPG's Racine.

    I have had almost all of their current line over the years and they still take my breath away every time I apply one. You have to give it to them for originality because they are definitely unusual. I hope they keep up the good work!

  26. #26

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Oh dear! I'm testing voleur de roses now and i'm really dissapointed. It smells of patchouli and tomato leaves to me with a hint of tea. Lots of tomato leaves and not much rose......

    not doing well with my l'artisans so far.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  27. #27
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder
    Oh dear! I'm testing voleur de roses now and i'm really dissapointed. It smells of patchouli and tomato leaves to me with a hint of tea. Lots of tomato leaves and not much rose......

    not doing well with my l'artisans so far.

    I too have tried around 8 L'Artisans, and dont find any of them to my liking ..Tea for Two is the only one which is a bit decent.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I think that perfume houses should try to strike a balance between creativity and wearability ... a scent which smells raw (ex: crushed weeds + tylenol like smell) might be considered by some people as exploring the creative boundaries for perfumes but might be totally unsuitable for human use.

    The perfumer has to reign in his/her wild side and consider whether people will like wearing that smell or not or weather its a unique smell which people will appreciate on themselves for 6-8 hours.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp
    I think that perfume houses should try to strike a balance between creativity and wearability ... a scent which smells raw (ex: crushed weeds + tylenol like smell) might be considered by some people as exploring the creative boundaries for perfumes but might be totally unsuitable for human use.

    The perfumer has to reign in his/her wild side and consider whether people will like wearing that smell or not or weather its a unique smell which people will appreciate on themselves for 6-8 hours.

    Very well said!

  30. #30
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by paintrman
    Anyway, I must also add at this point that Jean Laporte, when he sold L'artisan, created MPG (don't know the french but it's Master Perfumer and Glover in English) and recreated most of the same scents but made slight alterations therefore his old L'artisan Vetiver smells almost exactly like MPG's Racine.
    I wonder if anyone can speak to the differences between L'Artisans before and after Laporte. Paintrman has given me a rundown of the timeline before, but how di th house change? From my exposure (only two I have from his tenure is navegar and the divine L'Eau du Navigateur), it seems his L'Artisans were more masculine and a bit less wacky (but still with a high premium placed on daring) than the current ones are...?

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