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  1. #1

    Default House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Everyone,
    This is our attempt to revive the “house referendum” thread idea. A couple years ago Paul G. started this fine idea. We did it twice, first with Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, second with Calvin Klein. In each case Paul started the house referendum thread and plenty of members contributed reviews, reactions, thoughts, experiences, doubts, triumphs, and the usual Internetesque-any-thought-that-came-to-mind and needed to be added. Paul made the thread sticky at the top of the forum. That’s exactly what we’re going to do again. After this L’Artisan thread has been sticky for a week or it looses its steam we’ll take it down and maybe a month later referendumize whatever the next house will be. (This thread here, however, isn’t the place to discuss what other houses should be done or when.)

    Some members can think of unities between the house’s scents, some can argue quality, some can argue they’re breaking nose ground, some can argue they should be buried in the ground. Some members are you. You can post your own referendum on the house here. Everyone can contribute and each part and thought will make the whole of this thread mightier. You know one of their scents? You can contribute. (Maybe you know none of their scents, but what do you think the stuff might smell like having never smelled it--only having read words about its smell?)

    Everyone can think of one little part to add to the house referendum thread. So get to it.
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  2. #2

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    L’Artisan Parfumeur is the quintessential “niche” house. Its expense, its packaging, its unisexness, its hard-to-get-ness, its French-ness, its cutting edge-ness (really?), all set it apart as a special milestone in our contemporary scent style availability scene.

    It’s also the first non-department store perfume house I discovered. It’s probably the model every small house out there tries to follow and wishes to become. Last week I was in a scent shop talking with its owner who’s a buddy. He said Molinard had been in lately trying to get him to carry their line. “What’s their new thing?,” he asked. “Two hundred dollar Lalique bottles? That’s their new revival gimmick?” I said they’re one of my favorite low-level old house makers, and they’ve probably sat by and watched L’Artisan skyrocket, carving out a prestige corner of the market, getting all the fashionable attention, and Molinard management slapped themselves and said damn-that-should-be-us! Now they’re trying to get in the prestige brand artisanal scent corner. Nice mod, colorful, sample paper clips too. Let’s market to get some L’Artisan chic, they must be saying. “They’re too late,” said my friend the scent shop owner.

    The beauty of this house referendum is that everyone can contribute. Some can do two sentence reviews of L’Artisan stuff, and some can do twenty paragraphs on one scent. The house has a few dozen scents for sale, but has discontinued a good number in its short history. Some members can review those discontinued ones and give us a sense of what we’re missing. Or not missing. Nothing, or no post, needs to be perfect or definitive either.

    Got fragrance?
    --Chris
    Last edited by DustB; 1st July 2006 at 05:17 AM.
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  3. #3

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    L'Artisan was, also, the first 'niche house' that I found outside of Creed and Comme Des Garcons, which are department store sold. It is my favorite of all the houses and designers that make fragrance.

    I love how unique and beautiful these smells are. Beautiful may not seem like a word for describing a smell but you don't always have to see beauty to recognize its presence. This house has chosen a simple, yet lovely style of bottle and box to house thier precious juice. I like simplicity and grace. The bottles are all easy to hold. All of them are because they are all the same shape! Nice black boxes with the name of the perfume keeps the light out while adding a presence among the sea of other fragrances.

    People claim this house to produce fragrances with not enough sillage or longevity. I dissagree with this. I think they wear closer to the skin than those with sillage and take over the room. These are not obnoxious fragrances that get in other peoples faces. They are a fragrance wearers fragrance. They are to normal wearers as a great glass of wine is to the unappreciative drinker. I think that a fragrance does not need to take over the room to get the desired effect. These are made to be deeply appreciated by the wearer rather than to impress the noses of others. They have sillage but more of a two person sillage...

    I own:
    Mechant Loup
    Tea for Two
    Patchouli Patch

    My two favorite fragrances of all times are L'Artisan made. They are Tea for Two and Mechant Loup. They are both at the very top for me and have not reliquished this status ever since they got their.

    Tea for Two - It is considered a oriental by many but I would give it a very special category fit just for this one fragrance. It is not that sweet, and contains so vanilla like a typical oriental. Instead it contains honey, tea leaves, woody/inscense, and a smokey note. It is a nice year round fragrance but I find it best in the fall when this dark and mysterious scent can shine. It is very seductive, which means great for dates. It is never cloying. It is light but always there. It lasts forever on me but wears a medium closeness to the skin. It is the perfect blend of seduction, class, and beauty all in one. This is my perfect fragrance.

    Voleur de Roses - I find it to be a wonderful blend betweend something spicey and a little fresh, like the green smell of rose stems. It seems to have a faint wood smell but overall it is very rosey and earthy smelling. I found it good even on chilly, rainy days. It is best as a spring scent IMO. I really like its uniqueness. It is a lovely fragrance that is wonderful for men, even though it is a rose scent and those are typically seen as feminine. Top 5 on my list for sure.

    There is no end to L'Artisan's perfection...

    PS ~ for those who actually read my ramblings, try to keep this L'Artisan related. It is getting off topic with Creed and annoying nature. I want this to be informative for people, not a debat about Creeds...
    Last edited by EnvYuS; 14th July 2006 at 12:24 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur


    Uncanny timing. This morning two decants arrived from Gerald in Germany, The Pour un Ete and Voleur de Roses. This will be my first L'Artisan experience. Can't wait to try em...

    ......Also.....

    .......I love the name of this house. In my opinion Perfumers, musicians, and canvas decorators, actors etc are craftspeople. Art is a concept of comodifaction. Artisans are honest working people.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  5. #5

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder
    .......I love the name of this house. In my opinion Perfumers, musicians, and canvas decorators, actors etc are craftspeople. Art is a concept of comodifaction. Artisans are honest working people.
    I really think you have hit upon something here, hirch, to which DustB initially alluded by calling L'Artisan the "quintessential niche house". L'Artisan has got to be the best-branded line of fragrances I have ever encountered. L'Artisan is, to me, one of the two most easy-access niche houses (the other being Creed). These are the two to which one is drawn when one ventures past the designers, the "pop-niche" houses if you will. Between the two of them, i think they neatly encapsulate all that we associate with perfumery: "aesthetics" and "class".

    Creed has clearly chosen the "classy" road: with their snobby price point, their formal conservatism, the quality of their "all natural" ingredients,their holier-than-advertising (save covert product placement in magazines like Forbes and Cargo) stance and endlessly-touted association with royalty (various Kings, Cary Grant, etc). Creed has based their branding upon the perception of scents as noble and dapper and refined.

    L'Artisan has positioned themselves at the other end of the spectrum, as romantic and poetical and, yes, "aesthetic conceptualisations". L'Artisan self-evidently regards perfumery as an art form, more than a ritual of gentlemanly grooming, and seems to be after a communicative kind of scent. They "tell stories", from stealing roses off a fresh grave under cover of night, to bustling among the folksy warmth of a circus crowd, to being crazy messed up on absinthe, to rapacious lupine prowling. L'Artisans are evocative in the literal sense. At the best, they are downright hallucinagenic.

    Great thread guys, I'm off to spray my L'Arts so I can contribute more in-depth to the conversation.

  6. #6

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    My introduction to L'Artisan Parfumeur was with Mechant Loup. It struck me as a being original in a quite pleasant way. Alas the rest of line didn't quite agree with me: Ambre Extreme turned out to be cloying, Dzing turned out to be synthetic on my skin, etc...

    However, the line is somewhat unorthodox, is willing to explore new areas of olfactory realm and could have satisfied my wanderlust if the rest of the line had been in par with Mechant Loup.
    "Whereof one cannot speak, one must remain silent thereof." --Wittgenstein

  7. #7

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by Joel_Cairo
    I really think you have hit upon something here, hirch, to which DustB initially alluded by calling L'Artisan the "quintessential niche house". L'Artisan has got to be the best-branded line of fragrances I have ever encountered. L'Artisan is, to me, one of the two most easy-access niche houses (the other being Creed). These are the two to which one is drawn when one ventures past the designers, the "pop-niche" houses if you will. Between the two of them, i think they neatly encapsulate all that we associate with perfumery: "aesthetics" and "class".

    Creed has clearly chosen the "classy" road: with their snobby price point, their formal conservatism, the quality of their "all natural" ingredients,their holier-than-advertising (save covert product placement in magazines like Forbes and Cargo) stance and endlessly-touted association with royalty (various Kings, Cary Grant, etc). Creed has based their branding upon the perception of scents as noble and dapper and refined.

    L'Artisan has positioned themselves at the other end of the spectrum, as romantic and poetical and, yes, "aesthetic conceptualisations". L'Artisan self-evidently regards perfumery as an art form, more than a ritual of gentlemanly grooming, and seems to be after a communicative kind of scent. They "tell stories", from stealing roses off a fresh grave under cover of night, to bustling among the folksy warmth of a circus crowd, to being crazy messed up on absinthe, to rapacious lupine prowling. L'Artisans are evocative in the literal sense. At the best, they are downright hallucinagenic.

    Great thread guys, I'm off to spray my L'Arts so I can contribute more in-depth to the conversation.
    Great observation...I agree !

  8. #8

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I love l'Artisan, although the scents from them I like the best are not very long-lasting (Ananas Fizz for example). I can think of no other house (Serge Lutens included) who would market something as delirious as Piment Brulant: the only other house I can think of who would try that is Demeter and they would go for the obvious Pizza connection. I think they deserve major kudos for going out on that limb. Dzing? Tea for Two? Safran Troublant? Brilliant!

  9. #9
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    ...
    Last edited by pluran; 18th October 2007 at 09:02 AM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by stuigi
    The recent "tournament" to pick a favorite frag may be a good format for finding the preferred niche house. The key to a good "seeded" tournament is to put the pre-tournament favorites in opposite brackets as #1 seeds. Maybe L'Artisan and Serge Lutens? Are there really more than twelve or so highly regarded niche houses? BTW- Creed would definitely not qualify since almost every perfume store under the sun sells their line. Exclusivity is obviously one of the criteria. Maybe:

    SL vs. L'Artisan
    Diptyque F. Malle
    MPG C. Christian
    Lorenzo Villoresi Montale
    +???
    Creed isnt that commonly found everywhere...amongst online stores, MPG/Annick Goutal can be easily found wherever Creeds are sold. There was a recent thread discussing this exact topic. Also, designer houses dont create custom perfumes...something which Creed is majorly based upon. So theres another criteria for you to consider.

  11. #11

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Dzing! was the scent that made me want to know more about L'Artisan Parfumeur. It was love at first sniff and Dzing! is still among my L'Artisan favourites. It always makes me think of a draughty attic and cuddling with a cat, it has a warm furry smell in addition to the strange and wonderful sawdust note. Since Dzing! is very unique, innovative and evocative it was the perfect introduction to the house.

    My next L'Artisan love was Voleur de Roses that perfectly captures the smell of a charmingly unkempt garden with rose bushes and plum trees after a warm summer rainpour. The smell of warm, moist earth, that dirty patchouli note is what makes VdR what it is.

    Another wonderful example of L'Artisan trademark style is Tea for Two: it's hard to imagine a more perfect autumn/winter warmer than this gingery, spicy, honeyed tea scent!

    Like T42, Jour de Fête is also a comfort scent but better for spring/summer. It's light and lovely, soft and almondy, sweet and milky.

    When speaking of L'Artisan it's impossible to pass Passage d'Enfer which carries the name of L'Artisan street address. PdE is a Roman Catholic church in a bottle, incense and white lilies.

    Bois Farine is weird and wonderful and the most elegant and sophisticated of L'Artisan scents. I adore this unsweetened, nutty, powdery fragrance.

    It took me time to get the house bestseller, Mûre et Musc, but it finally got me. The simple combo of blackberry and musk works wonders. MeM is a great easy-to-wear and all-round scent. You can wear it anytime, anywhere on any occasion. Beacuse it also exist in EdP aka extrême form, you can easily stretch it into an evening scent after work.

    My latest L'Artisan love is Timbuktu which catapulted into my TOP 5 favourite office scents. The combination of mango, vetiver and incense is pure genius: it cheers you up and calms you down.

    Still a couple of words of the packaging: I'm sad they are changing the shape of the bottle, I love it the way it is. I've always loved their simple and effective idea of marking both the scent bottles and the black boxes with different-coloured ribbons and symbols printed in gold. Needless to add, Dzing! is my favourite...

    EDIT:
    Forgot to mention gorgeous Ambre Extrême which is one of my favourite amber scents (along with SL Ambre Sultan, MPG Ambre Précieux, Ex Voto Ambre Profond and Etro Ambra), very rich and warm, "old-fashioned" and traditional.

    People often complain about the staying power of L'Artisan scents, I guess I'd better count myself lucky because I don't have a problem with their longevity.
    Last edited by tigrushka; 1st July 2006 at 05:53 AM.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  12. #12

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    L'Artisan Perfumeur
    I have tried from this house Dzing, Mechant Loup, Passage en enfer, Patchouli Patch, Ananas Fizz, Voleur des Roses and own Tea for Two.
    What I take away from my experience with this house so far is a dedicated quixoticism. It is the ultimate branded Niche as far as I am concerned and determined to remain so. Even though widely available and accessable, this is a house very much married to an artistic outsider-ism.
    L'artisan to me is concerned mostly with an avant-garde approach to artisanal perfumery. Even when, as is the case for me with Mechant Loup, the verbal solution of the frag is far more edgy than its actual composition. I find the fragrances almost across the board to be an intellectual experience grounded in pushing boundaries and re-imagining classic formulas. The only fault I would ever find with L'artisan is an occasional self conscious oddness in contrast to the joyful wierdness of CdG.
    All of these that I have tried are undeniably of quality. The compositions inventive and the scents individual. Although they wear close to the skin I find no fault with that and indeed it seems to be a mark of nichier compositions.
    For myself I appreciate smelling these fragrances but do not find joy in wearing them. With the exceptions of TfT and VdR there is a certain lyricism and romance missing from these frags. Being a person most drawn to these elements in a frag I'm left a bit cold I admire VdR greatly but it does not make a good match with my skin. TfT however I enjoy immensely on several levels. The others for me are a bit too much an achievement of the intellect and a bit too little one of the soul.
    L'artisan for me is an important and distinguished house although not a sentimental favorite of my own.
    These are just my thoughts so far and I always reserve the right to completely change my mind.
    m
    p.s. it's threads like these that make basenotes such a wonderful place.

  13. #13

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    l'artisan is a great house my personal favorites are

    voleur de roses
    drole de rose
    bois farine
    premiere figuier extreme
    ambre extreme
    oeillet sauvage
    l'orchidee blanche my no'1
    safran troublant
    vanille
    tea for two
    dzing
    passage d'enfer

  14. #14

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I am sorry having to perhaps shatter what was reality yesterday, but may be just another illusion now: when one of our four major department stores re-opended their perfume floor this spring, they surprised the public with a special counter where you find some niche brands side by side, L'Artisan Parfumeur amidst them.

    Switzerland is a regular test market for world players, prestige brands in particular. The multi-lingual character of this market, non-membership of the EU, and the Swiss Frank (not Euro) seem to be ideal conditions for such test operations. Maybe you will never find L'Artisan's in Department stores of your country, more likely you will however! In contrast, Comme de Garcons may sell CDG 2 via rather unselect channels, but are otherwise not available in any department store here.

    Luca Turins comments on niche houses in the Galieries Lafayette opened that door for me, and I wonder if L'Artisan have established themselves there, too. Frenchness is no niche criterion for perfume making, not as long as Villoresi and SMN are on my mind. 'Niche' does not necessarily mean 'superior' even, it simply means: far off main roads!

    Even if I do not like a particular shoe, I can recognise the superiority of its quality. And without any doubt, L'Artisans products are exquisit! My all time favorite perfume is a L'Artisan, and I recognise the same grand style also in Passage D'Enfer. PdE suffers only from a misinterpretation of its name by many non Parisians. Freed of that, it is a wonderful, totally wearable, slightly female cologne. Men who like lighter floral incense, should try it. I cannot imagine that they might incite raised eyebrows. As has been said by EnvyYous initially, L'Artisan's are for yourself and have more like a two person sillage!
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Creed and L'Artisan are tied in my wardrobe for the best represented houses, with ten each. IMO, they are both great niche houses, but I see Creed as the nichest of the niche. Don't know why; don't ask; that's just the way I see it.

    For sheer hallucinogenic power, I would have to vote for Serge Lutens or perhaps some of the ouds of Pierrre Montale.

    Mais, revenons à ces moutons... of the L'Artisan group, my faves are:

    Timbuktu (I'm very partial to woody orientals);
    Passage d'Enfer (ditto);
    Méchant Loup;
    Fou d'Absinthe;
    Voleur de Roses;
    L'Eau de l'Artisan.

    Et voilà!
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

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  16. #16

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by marczilla
    L'Artisan Perfumeur ... it's threads like these that make basenotes such a wonderful place.
    I second that
    - splendid idea
    - favorite subject
    - great posts !
    Last edited by narcus; 1st July 2006 at 12:30 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  17. #17

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I've tried only four L'Artisans... but they were all great.

    As a fan of gourmands, Dzing! has to be a new fave of mine thanks to its sawdust notes balanced out by smooth candy notes. My only wish was that it lasted longer than 4 hours.

    Tea for Two is probably the best tea scent I have worn... smooth honey and warm, smoky tea... absolutely divine. Probably the best lognevity out of all the L'Artisans, too.

    L'eau de L'Artisan is a nice mint/tea/woods scent... but the longevity here is as bad as Dzing!

    Last, but not least, I was blown away by Fou d'Absinthe. Totally different from anything else in my collection... the heat and the cold "fight" each other in this scent. The longevity is good, too... I can see myself getting a bottle of this in the future.

    (I also have a sample of Mure et Musc, but I haven't tried it yet.)
    Top 5 for Fall:
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  18. #18

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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    L'Artisan was also my first Niche love. I was a basenotes embyro--lurking. I got a sample of Mimosa pour Moi and it blew me away. I'd never smelled anything like it, and I was stunned by the idea that there might be more thrill-in-bottle scents out there. Heh, heh, and there were! I love simple florals, love transparent scents (and Serge Lutens, too.) Sometimes on basenotes I feel like the only art fan that prefers a delicate watercolor over a Rembrant or Picasso. Again crediting Luca for the metaphor, children paint watercolors but not all watercolors are painted in kindergarten. A masterwork is just that much more divine to me.

    Verte Violette is also a favorite of mine--it's so bright and green, just a perfect expression of the sort of tweak it up 'til it's totally new vibe I seem to love.

    Timbuktu--hmmmm, not my style really....but did I stop sniffing my sample over and over and over, wearing tiny bits on my wrist just for me? Nope. And a sort of panic set in when I watched my sample running lower and lower.....


    I guess I love L'Artisan for that reason. They consistantly have surprised my nose. Lutens is great and I own more SL, but L'Artisan has such originality and variety. If I had to wear one house the rest of my life, I wouldn't choose SL---I'd go L'Artisan, baby! YEAH!
    Please, spritz responsibly.

  19. #19

    Red face Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    My first encounter with L`Artisan was a sample from Stu with Mure et Musc Extreme. Love at first sniff! Read some about this house on BN, and ordered a set with Mure et Musc, La Chasse aux Papillons, Passage D`Enfer and Premier Figuier from Lusciouscargo (which, btw, never arrived...). Also ordered samples from Ausliebezumduft (First-in-Fragrance), since I thought all L`Artisans must smell like heaven.
    I was wrong!
    I have tried Mure et Musc, MeME, Vanilia, Mimosa pour Moi, Voleur de Roses, Dzing!, Ambre Extreme, Verte Violette, Piment Brulant, Poivre Piquant, Safran Troublant, Ananas Fizz and Fou d`Absinthe, so far, and I can just say: I like Mure et Musc, LOVE MeME, the rest I barely find wearable.
    I once made a little "cocktail", in a decant, of Vanilia, Safran Troublant, Poivre Piquant and (I think) Ambre Extreme. Shaked well, and left it alone to the following day, when I sprayed on some. It didn`t exactly smell divine, but better that each scent did individually...This is not a final "judgement", since I have so many more scents from L`Artisan yet to test.

  20. #20

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by Chicat
    Timbuktu--hmmmm, not my style really....but did I stop sniffing my sample over and over and over, wearing tiny bits on my wrist just for me? Nope. And a sort of panic set in when I watched my sample running lower and lower.....
    Same story here. With so many samples I can take it or leave it... I'll wear it once or twice and forget about it... but even with L'Artisanas that weren't my bag (Mechant Loup, PdE), I just kept coming back and resniffing. In some cases, like Bois Farine, an enchanted love would develop from a negative initial encounter (which rarely happens with me; my first impressions tend to stick) in other cases, I'd just keep reapplying and sniffing anyway! i can't explain it! The only sample vials I haven't worn to the last drop, whether or not I ended up liking them, are ones I tossed, half-full, into outgoing swaps.

  21. #21

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    If this is in this thread already, I apologize. I would like someone to do a review of Fou d'Absinthe by L'Artisan. This fragrances sounds intriguing but I would like to hear what a member has to say about it.

  22. #22

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by Fragrant Counterpoint
    If this is in this thread already, I apologize. I would like someone to do a review of Fou d'Absinthe by L'Artisan. This fragrances sounds intriguing but I would like to hear what a member has to say about it.
    If you do a search, you'll find reviews in some recent threads, but here is mine:
    Fou d’Absinth
    Heavily louched and with a generous cube of sugar on the straining spoon, L’Artisan’s rendering of this legendary elixir is a much more approachable concoction than its spirituous namesake. Absinth’s infamous bitter anise bite has been considerably tempered in Fou d’Absinthe, yielding a result which I find to be somewhat sweet, as green fragrances go. At the top there is a very brief alcoholic note, but one which reminds me more of rich eggnog than the brittle smack of Absinth. It has a pronounced herbal body throughout which, in keeping with the house’s reputation, smells unimpeachably natural. There are traces of spices which I think my nose found in Egoiste. FdA’s much advertised hot/cold sensation, presumably a kind of homage to the burn of a good stiff swig, recalls rather the cold/hot feeling of rinsing off shaving foam and splashing on aftershave. I find something strongly reminiscent of shaving in it (there’s a certain kinship with YSL’s Rive Gauche here). That’s actually the dominant scent-image I get from this particular L’Artisan, making FdA the most masculine but also most conventional fragrance I know of from this house. Rather than seeming illicit or hallucinogenic, FdA’s cocktail of cool herbs and warm spice struck me as rather well-behaved and gentlemanly. Quite “sober” in fact. It’s closer to the image of the prodigious, aspirational petit-bourgeois Jules Cheret than to the indulgent fallen-aristocrat/gonzo bohemian persona of Toulouse-Lautrec (If it’s the seedy decadence of Moulin Rouge you’re after, see rather L’Artisan’s Dzing!).

    To be sure, FdA is an excellent fragrance - with the best projection I have found among L’Artisans- and were it released by any other house, I’d call it an unqualified triumph. It certainly is intoxicating – devastatingly handsome, remarkably refined and positively humming with quality- but just not in the way I was expecting. Given L’Artisan’s unique reputation for mind-bendingly evocative scents that play not just upon the nose but also the imagination and memory, I was hoping their interpretation of the Green Fairy would have been just a bit more psychoactive. “Crazy for Absinthe” is a bit too respectable; I wanted more visuals.

  23. #23

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by Joel_Cairo
    If you do a search, you'll find reviews in some recent threads, but here is mine:
    Fou d’Absinth
    Heavily louched and with a generous cube of sugar on the straining spoon, L’Artisan’s rendering of this legendary elixir is a much more approachable concoction than its spirituous namesake. Absinth’s infamous bitter anise bite has been considerably tempered in Fou d’Absinthe, yielding a result which I find to be somewhat sweet, as green fragrances go. At the top there is a very brief alcoholic note, but one which reminds me more of rich eggnog than the brittle smack of Absinth. It has a pronounced herbal body throughout which, in keeping with the house’s reputation, smells unimpeachably natural. There are traces of spices which I think my nose found in Egoiste. FdA’s much advertised hot/cold sensation, presumably a kind of homage to the burn of a good stiff swig, recalls rather the cold/hot feeling of rinsing off shaving foam and splashing on aftershave. I find something strongly reminiscent of shaving in it (there’s a certain kinship with YSL’s Rive Gauche here). That’s actually the dominant scent-image I get from this particular L’Artisan, making FdA the most masculine but also most conventional fragrance I know of from this house. Rather than seeming illicit or hallucinogenic, FdA’s cocktail of cool herbs and warm spice struck me as rather well-behaved and gentlemanly. Quite “sober” in fact. It’s closer to the image of the prodigious, aspirational petit-bourgeois Jules Cheret than to the indulgent fallen-aristocrat/gonzo bohemian persona of Toulouse-Lautrec (If it’s the seedy decadence of Moulin Rouge you’re after, see rather L’Artisan’s Dzing!).

    To be sure, FdA is an excellent fragrance - with the best projection I have found among L’Artisans- and were it released by any other house, I’d call it an unqualified triumph. It certainly is intoxicating – devastatingly handsome, remarkably refined and positively humming with quality- but just not in the way I was expecting. Given L’Artisan’s unique reputation for mind-bendingly evocative scents that play not just upon the nose but also the imagination and memory, I was hoping their interpretation of the Green Fairy would have been just a bit more psychoactive. “Crazy for Absinthe” is a bit too respectable; I wanted more visuals.

    Great review Joel! It sounds like something to try out for sure! Now, let me sprint to the phone and see what I can do about a sample!

  24. #24

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    L'artisan are available in department stores in the u.k. (i saw some at fenwick, brent cross)

    I tried the pour un ete this morning and was underwhelmed . I will definately try it again before I pass judgement though.
    Last edited by hirch_duckfinder; 1st July 2006 at 09:21 PM.
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  25. #25

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I was introduced to this fine house about 15 years ago by a friend that worked at a store in the Crescent Hotel in Dallas (Stanley Korshack). She raved about this fragrance house and demanded that I try one. She was known to send bottles to me and let me try them knowing full well I would keep them and then have to pay. My first bottle was called Incroyable, and had notes of plum and blond tobacco. It was heavenly but has long been discontinued. I asked about this and it turns out that ingredients for fragrances come and go and when an ingredient can't be bought, they must discontinue the fragrance. There was another L'artisan fragrance that captured my heart and I believe it was called simply Hesperides which was loaded with neroli and citrus. It smelled like clean laundry dried in the sun. There was another one called Caporal that was oak moss and talk about sillage and longevity! I believe this might be the king of all times. There was a patchouli that came out about 10 years ago that was also killer (not the watered down Patchouli Patch that is unsure if it's really patchouli or not). This one smelled like a funky hippy might have smelled in the late 60's--pure earthy goodness. L'artisan also had an orange and cinnamon (don't remember the name) and one based on celery seed (yuck). Anyway, I must also add at this point that Jean Laporte, when he sold L'artisan, created MPG (don't know the french but it's Master Perfumer and Glover in English) and recreated most of the same scents but made slight alterations therefore his old L'artisan Vetiver smells almost exactly like MPG's Racine.

    I have had almost all of their current line over the years and they still take my breath away every time I apply one. You have to give it to them for originality because they are definitely unusual. I hope they keep up the good work!

  26. #26

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Oh dear! I'm testing voleur de roses now and i'm really dissapointed. It smells of patchouli and tomato leaves to me with a hint of tea. Lots of tomato leaves and not much rose......

    not doing well with my l'artisans so far.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

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  27. #27

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder
    Oh dear! I'm testing voleur de roses now and i'm really dissapointed. It smells of patchouli and tomato leaves to me with a hint of tea. Lots of tomato leaves and not much rose......

    not doing well with my l'artisans so far.

    I too have tried around 8 L'Artisans, and dont find any of them to my liking ..Tea for Two is the only one which is a bit decent.

  28. #28

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I think that perfume houses should try to strike a balance between creativity and wearability ... a scent which smells raw (ex: crushed weeds + tylenol like smell) might be considered by some people as exploring the creative boundaries for perfumes but might be totally unsuitable for human use.

    The perfumer has to reign in his/her wild side and consider whether people will like wearing that smell or not or weather its a unique smell which people will appreciate on themselves for 6-8 hours.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp
    I think that perfume houses should try to strike a balance between creativity and wearability ... a scent which smells raw (ex: crushed weeds + tylenol like smell) might be considered by some people as exploring the creative boundaries for perfumes but might be totally unsuitable for human use.

    The perfumer has to reign in his/her wild side and consider whether people will like wearing that smell or not or weather its a unique smell which people will appreciate on themselves for 6-8 hours.

    Very well said!

  30. #30

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by paintrman
    Anyway, I must also add at this point that Jean Laporte, when he sold L'artisan, created MPG (don't know the french but it's Master Perfumer and Glover in English) and recreated most of the same scents but made slight alterations therefore his old L'artisan Vetiver smells almost exactly like MPG's Racine.
    I wonder if anyone can speak to the differences between L'Artisans before and after Laporte. Paintrman has given me a rundown of the timeline before, but how di th house change? From my exposure (only two I have from his tenure is navegar and the divine L'Eau du Navigateur), it seems his L'Artisans were more masculine and a bit less wacky (but still with a high premium placed on daring) than the current ones are...?

  31. #31

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I admire the intellectualism of L’Artisan Parfuneur. I also believe it is a genuine niche house because the products are certainly designed for individual tastes rather than mass-market appeal. Once in a while they develop a fragrance that might possibly become mass-market and I’m sure they are happy about the sales, but I don’t think that fact changes their vision very much.

    I don’t think L’Artisan expects a person to enjoy all or even most of their products—they expect that, depending on the individual wearer, some fragrances will be loved (I love Timbuktu), some will be disliked (I dislike Dzing!) and most will little effect one way or another (L’Eau de L’Artisan—ehh!).

    They offer a wide variety, catering to many tastes. The fragrances tend to stay closer to the skin rather than being sillage monsters, although there are exceptions. I also find the L’Artisans have better longevity than they are often given credit for.

    The literature that L’Artisan puts out tells that the scents are designed to provoke individual memories. I believe they have accomplished that. I find myself intimately connected to several of the perfumes.

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrushka
    When speaking of L'Artisan it's impossible to pass Passage d'Enfer which carries the name of L'Artisan street address. PdE is a Roman Catholic church in a bottle, incense and white lilies.
    Speaking of individual memories. I am fortunate to be old enough to remember the old Catholicism— Easter lilies, the overwhelming smell of the flowers in the empty church, the mystery and mysticism of the almost two thousand year old Latin mass, the visual and olfactory aura of the benediction, the incensing of the congregation, true beeswax candles: Passage d’Enfer captures these ambiances brilliantly, but its genius is that it doesn’t stop there. This fragrance presents not simply the AROMAS of the Catholic mass, it presents the TIME sequences, as well. And ‘time’ is what Passage d’Enfer is really about: it is an extremely complex and well thought-out fragrance that arrays itself in layers to trap a movement in time as it captures the aromas of space. L’Artisan’s Passage d’Enfer seems to have been specifically created to take advantage of the special nature of aromas and odors to access memory.

    The ‘passage’ may originally have been a street, but in the fragrance, it is a movement—a movement in time and memory, but I don’t think one has to have been raised Catholic (that only makes it a little easier) to either comprehend or benefit from this fragrance—this is a fragrance for all mankind—especially those who feel the unbearable beauty of the unbroken chain of humanity’s past-present-future.

    Because Passage D’Enfer uses time as an ingredient, it becomes one of those fragrances that the willing wearer can actually live in for an hour or three or six—a liberating capsule of 'evolving' within the prison of space. It is an unbelievably adaptable fragrance. It is really Catholic, it is also really catholic. It is universal. And...it is an eminently wearable fragrance.

  32. #32

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by foetidus
    They offer a wide variety, catering to many tastes. The fragrances tend to stay closer to the skin rather than being sillage monsters, although there are exceptions. I also find the L’Artisans have better longevity than they are often given credit for.
    Thank you, Foetidus. At last. 'Bout time this issue came up. I know there are L'Artisan non-fans out there. I'm sure someone here will read Foetidus's line about L'Artisan's better longevity and say "hogwash!" Let's hear from them.

    L'Artisan is VERY frequently assailed for despicable longevity. And with that Mercedes-Benz price tag. Whadda rip!

    Is this true?

    Come on you members of the loyal L'Artisan opposition, this isn't a love-fest thread. Let's hear some substantive thoughts about experience where L'Artisan scents disappointed. There must be some stories out there. The hey, what are they talking about--this is supposed to be good? type stories.
    --Chris
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  33. #33
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Longevity isn't the usually the problem. Some of them could use a more dynamic presence on the skin. It's as if they need to open up, come alive. It's like they have a thin layer of something around them inhibiting their full expression. Any time I hear "close to the skin" I become less inspired by what's to come.
    Last edited by pluran; 31st March 2012 at 02:25 AM. Reason: clarity

  34. #34

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran
    Longevity isn't the usually the problem. Some of them could use a more dynamic presence on the skin. It's as if they need to open up, come alive. It's like they have a thin layer of something around them preventing their full expression. Any time I hear "close to the skin" I become less inspired by what's to come.

    exactly, its not longevity, its projection. A L'Artisan can be an all day experience, but they tend to be personal or intimate experiences.

  35. #35

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    [Joel_Cairo] "A L'Artisan can be an all day experience, but they tend to be personal or intimate experiences."

    An excellent point and an important one to remember when comparing niches with designers. They are designed in different ways and with a different vision/purpose in mind. You can't have the same expectations from both.

    Also, thank you everyone for this very educational discussion.

    Personally, I agree that L'AP's are quality fragrances but with no "sillage" or "longevity" as we normally refer to these terms. I find that at least SOME L'A scents are a bit too literal. Almost like, "You want vanilla? We'll give you vanilla!" I think essential oils can do that. Still most L'A are more complex and more imaginative than that.
    And the memory and mood aspect, I am very senitive to scents (not in terms of allergies, thank God, but in terms of evoking moods and memories) I can get that from other fragrances and even a cup of fresh coffee at the right place and time--but that's just me. I feel lucky that I don't have to pay that sort of a price for that purpose.
    I completely respect those who love and enjoy this house. However, I find some quality designers (e.g. Chanel) satisfy my needs much better in all of the above ways. Some of those scents just blow me away. Sadly, no L'AP has done that so far.
    Of the ones I've tried, I like Mechant Loup the best. It's masculine enough and honestly wearable. I also liked Voleur de Roses (feminine to me) with very interesting development, and Safron Troublant (again feminine).
    Dzing! and Bois Farine are novel but not wearable IMHO. Tea for Two, Timbuktu (sp?), L'eau are good but it's not like you can't get those type of scents elsewhere. They're good but in the end, I thought, "So what?"
    Still, I'm less disappointed in this house than some other niches (namely Creed). But that's another thread.
    RM

  36. #36

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by Joel_Cairo
    A L'Artisan can be an all day experience, but they tend to be personal or intimate experiences.
    Well said.

    Quote Originally Posted by Renaissance_Man
    Personally, I agree that L'AP's are quality fragrances but with no "sillage" or "longevity" as we normally refer to these terms. I find that at least SOME L'A scents are a bit too literal. Almost like, "You want vanilla? We'll give you vanilla!"


    Vanilia is one of the L'Artisans I can't bear, it's a massive vanilla overdose! It reminds me of a huge vat of vanilla ice cream forgotten out in the sun to melt all over the place... But I know it's the Vanilla Holy Grail to many people. Just not for me.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  37. #37

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    In general, I find L'Artisan is an awesome fragrance house with many gems in its collection. It may be the nature of a house with sophistication as main principle (and main marketing argument) to produce fragrances that are mostly non-mainstream and therefore polarize.

    There are some L'Artisans that I love, wear on any occasion and that last quite long on me: Passage d'Enfer, Dzing, Tea for Two, Safran Troublant.
    There are others I love but that are reserved for special occasions, e.g. Bois Farine (one of the most comfortable and relaxing scent I have), Orchidee Blanche (extremely powdery, not too sweet and much more wearable for a man than you would suppose given its name), Piment Brulant (chilli powder, anyone?), Ambre Extreme (only when it's cold). Many others are wonderful, but lack of sillage and staying power, e.g. Ananas Fizz or Navegar (I would do anything for Navegar Extreme...)
    And there are Artisans that are somehow difficult for me. The pour un Ete, for example. Its topnotes are just weird on me. A bit musty, muddy, just strange. It takes some time until this one reveals its actual soft freshness to me - then it lasts quite long and is a really nice, brightening fragrance. Another odd one is Voleur de Roses. When I first smelled it, I couldn't stand it at all. It took me some time to appreciate this strange mixture of heavy, earthy patchouli and rosewood. Sometimes, I like it, but it's not for everday and I have to be in the right mood for that one (same with Mechant Loup). I don't have a final opinion about Fou d'Absinthe - I find it quite loud and the mixture of notes a bit chaotic, and the whole composition tends to be cloying in the warmer season. I'll give that one another try when it's cooler.

    After all, I appreciate L'Artisans effort to have produced many exceptional, amazing fragrances even if some of their scents aren't too innovative and others that simply aren't to my taste.

  38. #38

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I am so new to fragrances and am hopeless when it comes to describing the different notes. Having said that, I so appreciate this thread, the different descriptions, and the hose of L'artisan.

    I got a decant of PdE and couldn't stand it . Just too......I don't know; just nasty to my nose .

    Months went by as I collected new-to-me colognes and I enjoyed most. Then I blindly bought(due to someone's review?) Timbuktu . What a gloriously 'different' scent and it lasts on me. I can't stop sniffing my arm when I have it on. If relaxes me and makes me smile as it mesmerizes me .

    I got Premier Figuier next and it's nice but not a "Timbuktu" but it too was different from any of my collection of frags. In fact, I chose it for my SOTD this morning. I love figs and we have a tree in our yard and they are almost ready to be picked. It's a 'keeper'.

    Next, I ordered two L'a's; Navegar and Mure et Musc Extreme. Nav isn't in the running with the rest of my L'as. It's just too 'piney' to my nose. Now my Musc is second only to my Timbuktu. I layered it on top of my PF this afternoon and its milkyness is sweet and sensual.

    This house offers so many scents that are just not found elsewhere, similar to the Montale offerings but different and you certainly won't smell them on others.


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  39. #39

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    First time I took a look at the L'artisan site, I was impressed by the motto introducing their scents: Des eaux de toilette qui vous parlent. Actually, to tell stories you need to be adventurous and this quality beholds for sure to this house. In fact they have always been brave enough to dare using some unusual notes. How not to mention the graceful Bois farine in which iris and fennel seeds magistrally melt to the flowers of Reunion Ilsand smelling exactly like a bakery: raw leavening bread, just baked sweet cakes and fresh flour floating in the air. A coup de genie from Monsieur Ellena! Another surprising one was DZING! not just for his drydown which makes it pretty in the same line of many sweet-leathery scents, but for the hazardous topnotes of sawdust and musk which makes it pretty unique: a surprising one from Giacobetti. Not one of my favourites (it's known I don't like coffee note in scents) but for sure innovative at that time (1982) when gourmands were not yet so popular, L'Eau du navigateur takes far memories of the ancient ships loaded with spices and coffee from the Indies. In fact I far prefer letting my travel on the effluvium of Navegar, taking me on the seashore, walking among old overturned boats drenched in sun and salty water. Also Mechant Loup, aside a traditional use of woody notes like vetyver, has the power to give it an unuasual twist, loading it with dripping honeycombs and above all to let you discover a surprising heartnote in the heart of the wood: hazelnut. Simply perfect, half way between woody and gourmand! Last of all, probably the less innovative but one of the most emotional ones, Voleur de roses, which many of you have already superbly discribed: nothing to add about it.
    About the lasting power and sillage question my point of view is that the question is pretty subjective. On me most of them have good lasting power. About sillage, some scents like Mechant Loup have very good sillage while others like Voleur de roses have a closer aura.
    For sure you won't expect yourself to like all their juices but you'll find some true gem among them.

  40. #40

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I've been to their boutique a few times and have tried on most of their masculine fragrances and have to say, with the exception of Timbuktu, they were quite dilute and short lived. I love exotic, spicy scents like Timbuktu, Eau des Iles is one of my favorite scents and I find it to be even more intense and complex. I think the concepts behind Artisans fragrances are great, the packaging is cool, but they don't live up to my expectations. Maybe it's just an issue of them adding too much water or alcohol, any thoughts on this? Mechant Loup is a very simple licorice scent, Dzing smells like hay, and that's it, they don't evolve, not on my skin at least. Oh, Passage D'Enfer smells like urine on me, thankfully it's so weak!

  41. #41
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by nidulariumblossom
    I've been to their boutique a few times and have tried on most of their masculine fragrances and have to say, with the exception of Timbuktu, they were quite dilute and short lived. I love exotic, spicy scents like Timbuktu, Eau des Iles is one of my favorite scents and I find it to be even more intense and complex. I think the concepts behind Artisans fragrances are great, the packaging is cool, but they don't live up to my expectations. Maybe it's just an issue of them adding too much water or alcohol, any thoughts on this? Mechant Loup is a very simple licorice scent, Dzing smells like hay, and that's it, they don't evolve, not on my skin at least. Oh, Passage D'Enfer smells like urine on me, thankfully it's so weak!
    I understand what you're saying to an extent, but the way it's written I can't really find much common ground.

  42. #42

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I am wearing Passage d'Enfer today, and I am struck again by how beautiful it is. This scent really seems to blossom in the warmer weather, when it takes you on a lovely, meditative journey; the lily adds just the right touch to the incense.
    Many of my favorites from this house are, in fact, scents that I wear during the warmer weather; the light touch that characterizes them seems particularly appropriate then. And, although I wear very few florals in the winter, they call to me in the warmer months.
    Other favorites include:
    Fleur d'Oranger--an incredible scent, though not one many men will probably wear. Heartbreakingly beautiful!
    Orchidee Blanche: sadly discontinued, though some bottles are still available. Strange, harsh opening on me, but an absolutely lovely drydown.
    La Chasse aux Papillons
    La Haie Fleurie du Hameau
    The pour un Ete
    Safran Troublan
    Poivre Piquant
    Timbuktu
    Mechant Loup
    L'Eau de Navigateur
    Last edited by lilybp; 6th July 2006 at 04:20 PM.

  43. #43

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybp
    I am wearing Passage d'Enfer today, and I am struck again by how beautiful it is. This scent really seems to blossom in the warmer weather, when it takes you on a lovely, meditative journey; the lily adds just the right touch to the incense....
    Lillies' blossoms open now, and to me also, this is the time when the fragrance exudes an extra special charm. The strange thing is, that PdE has actually no lily (it cannot have). There is a lighter floral mix evoking the idea only. I received this info at L' Artisans last summer.

    Have a look at peaceful Passage D' Enfer, a painters favorite, which cannot but have inspired the scent creation:

    http://www.ster.kuleuven.be/~janv/PARIS_2/slides/SIMG4796.html

    If fragrances were visible - Passage d'Enfer would be white daylight in my mind! Only L'Homme Sage evokes a similar vision in me.
    Last edited by narcus; 7th July 2006 at 07:08 AM.
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  44. #44
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    ............
    Last edited by pluran; 31st March 2012 at 02:26 AM.

  45. #45

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Hello
    This is my very first post on the forum, so maybe my comments are a bit amateuristic;-). I tried 3 fragrances from L'artisan parfumeur:
    voleur de roses: quite fresh, nose of roses is quite dominating with some earthy undertone. I get the impressions it evolves to something a bit more spicy after a while. I like the smell but it is not something I would actually wear everyday, I would almost call it feminine
    fou d'absinthe: insence top notes, woody. Evolving to something green(pine). A very mature and masculine fragrance.
    bois fariné: almond milk is my very first impression, way to sweet for my taste. I do like the powdery notes, but altough the initial sweetness blows off after a while I still think it is on the sweet side.
    So from the ones I tried I would say it are all intoxicating and complex smells, but just not my cup of tea, but I am convinced I should just try their other fragrances.

    greetings from Belgium
    Last edited by Stof; 7th July 2006 at 08:46 PM.

  46. #46

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Nice pic Narcus!
    It really takes me back to my summer holidays in Paris...

  47. #47

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Stuff I own from L'Artisan:
    Navegar - Sharp, citric, green top notes, like some freshly cut pungent vegetation, then dries down to sweet wood which is the softest I've come across among any woods. There is some incense mingling around in the middles and it makes the scent even more sophisticated and unpredictable. Definitely one of the most artistic L'artisan scents.
    Voleur de Roses - Rather fresh, green and vivid rose scent with some earthiness at the base. This is the most melancholic scent I've known. When some say L'artisan scents are psychedelic I think they are talking about scents like VdR.
    Dzing! - Must be the wierdest of weird. Candy/Ice cream top notes then animal fur and rubbery leather. I don't know..if you want a truly exciting and overwhelming scent this could be it because its too strange. I wish I bought Mechant Loup or t42 instead, not that I hate it though.

    And stuff that I've tried:
    Mechant Loup - Supposedly a honey scent, I think the honey is very subtle and give it a faint animalistic feel. I don't know much about the individual notes but overall its very complex, well rounded and smooth scent, green, not too sweet and a bit peppery.
    Tea for Two - tea, honey, smoke and something balmy/minty but also much more than that.
    Poivre Piquent - I don't remember exactly how this smelled but its something really subtle and unpredictable, pepper and something sweet.
    Others that I've tried, like Passage D'enfer & Mure et Musc are more feminine than the above, imo.

    Overall I think L'artisans are great. They are my favourite niche house if I had to choose one. They can be weird but not unwearable due to the upbeat, 'not so serious' feel of their scents. For example someone on basenotes said t42 smelled like smoking dope or dzing, like moth balls but compare them to the downright offputting pungentness of some Lutens I think L'artisan scents are much more comforting to wear.

  48. #48

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Tea For Two - My favorite fragrance of all time. Dark, mysterious, smokey, an instant attention-grabber. The women will follow you around until the end of time on this one. Good for fall, winter, or intimate encounters any time of the year. Watch your bottle, or someone will certainly steal it.

    Fou d'Absinthe - An amazing scent. It smells like a dark green but it's not too much of it. Very mysterious also, and dark. Another incredible scent. Good for evenings anytime of year, and fall and winter.

    Navegar - Very subtle and smooth. At first I get aquatic and citrus, then it gets a little spicer and woody. This one is very relaxing and amazing. Good for spring and summer. Also heavy enough for evenings.

    Mure Et Musc - Very light berry scent. It smells great in my opinion and is not too feminine for us guys that ooze masculinity. Great for spring and summer. Looking forward to trying the extreme version and Cologne Mure Et Musc.

    L'eau De L'Artisan - Smells very fresh and grassy with citrus. Last a while and gives you the clean, out of the shower feel when you wear it. Smells like what a spring and summer day should. Ideal for spring and summer.

    Dzing! - Heavy stuff, but amazing. Leather, rubber, smoke, black tea. Winter and fall delight. Intimate encounters also. My second favorite L'Artisan. I get animalic scent and then baked goods. I really like this.
    Last edited by Spiritussancti; 31st July 2006 at 01:45 AM.

  49. #49

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I've waited and waited before replying to this thread, but I guess there is no need to wait anymore... And why wait? Well, I hate not having thought about important issues like this one enough and L'Artisan is for sure important.

    Voleur de Roses was my first encounter and a blind buy. I was kind of dissapointed even though I liked the fragrance. I like it more now, but I have to be in a certain mood to wear it and I can grow tired of it after a few hours. I' not sure why this happens, but I guess it has to do with how specifically moody I find it. Not very versatile in my opinion, but perfect for walks in heavy rain or just sitting in your window looking out on a rainy, crowded street.

    Dzing! was second out and all it promised to be and more. One of my most valuable fragrances in my wardrobe. Very impressive and still has that wow-feeling I got when I first tried it. I love fragrances that take me to specific places and/or shows very specific scenarios/pictures/textures. This one does it in a most vivid way as you all know.

    L'Eau de L'Artisan became my third full bottle from L'Artisan. One I loved from the moment I first sampled it. I just can't get enough of grassy notes and the ones in here are just splendid. Other than that, I guess it is not overly impressive, but nice and versatile enough to get a lot of wearings. Perfect choice for me when I have to be around people who might not appreciate scents the way I do, but still want to be able disappear somewhere (preferably to a newly mowed lawn of my own choice, situated somewhere in my childhood) by a sniff of my wrist.

    Those are the only full bottles I have from the company, even though there are several more I find highly intruiging. Shame on me. And even though I've tested nine other L'Artisan I bet my next purchase from them will be a blind one: Tea for Two.

    Hopefully I'll return to this thread with some comments on the other nine in the foreseeable future.
    Last edited by shifts; 12th July 2006 at 09:20 AM.

  50. #50

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Retired Mure et Musc and came to the conclusion that, I just dont want to smell like blueberries. It's alright but, I dont see it to my advantage to wear this fragrance. Too many other good scents out there to wear. Hopefully the Cologne Mure et Musc I requested is better.

  51. #51

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Tea for two is really beautiful, nice composed scent. I have bought this one and enjoy it very much. Even today I was wearing it although it was very hot in Vilnius.

    What would be the next mine l'artisan?

    Very exotic,nutty, warm, tropically warm, woody, powdery, very very distinctive is Bois Farine. I have a sample of it but can not imagine is it easy to wear it. It can be very cloying. Bois Farine to my mind is more interesting than Mechant Loup. Mechant loup is too slight to me.

    I have my favorite orientals, but don't have much scents which I would like for summer, for every day. Primier Figuier I think would be a good alternative. I haven't liked Edp version. Edt is more green, more natural.
    If you want the greenist one - go for Edt; then- bit sweeter- Diptyque Philosykos. I haven' t liked so much Navegar, Eau l'artisan.

    Passage d'enfer???? maybe . too psychedelic? this is a scent for a sane man??
    Last edited by DreamerII; 13th July 2006 at 04:03 PM.
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    Real beauty: 1) Frederic Malle 1-20 2) Chanel Egoiste 3) YSL Opium pour Homme edp 4) TF Noir de Noir

    Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel

  52. #52

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    This was the first niche house that I ever sampled. And it would be safe to say that its now my all time favorite house! To me the thing that puts it ahead of any other house, is the fact that they still manage to have a level of mystery in there products. I shouldnt ewen say products, more like stories.

    Fou d'Absinthe: Just received a sample of this magical poetry in a bottle, and i must say, it´s stunning! (side note:There should be a fainting smiley face. Because some sents are just the kinda Oh my. Im having the vapors! ) sents. This is just what i was hoping it would be. Boozy, green and totally comforting cent. I can really see in my souls eyes when i sniffing it, an old library in a mansion in the 1800 century, fire place and wind beating the windows outside. And someone who looks like stylish Dracula (minus the fangs), is cooking up the potion. You can feel the sugar burning in the spoon. And when you take your first sip of the Green Fairy, you forget the storm outside and fell in a deep coma like space, where your soul can rest.

    And like Joel_Cairo said, it doesnt have the Crazy for Absinthe feel like the name suggest. But I myself can see the visuals that Joel said it was lacking. Tru, it doesnt tell you what they should be, but it leaves you open to your own fantasies. And to me thats the best thing about this lovely potion. It doesnt give you a story, It allows you to create them

    Bois Farine: I just love sents like these. Just like Fou d'Absinthe, it doesnt push it self to your face, but lets you in little by little...
    This has to be one of the most comforting cents out there. Smells like my moms house when shes baking bread. Just put a little sweetnes the the flour, and Voila!, you have your self a plate full of Bois Farine.

    Voleur de Roses: AH! The crypt is damp today my corpse bride. This actually smells like your making love to a beautiful zombie girl. The rose is the beauty, and wet moist is the smell of her skin, thats covered in leaves and morning dew. You feel almost bad when you wear this, because it projects a Rose unlike anything I have yeat come accross, but the part when you can smell the dying ground, it will leave a permanent mark on peoples psyche. It feels like you shouldnt wear it out on the open, its not made for casual strolling around the town. Because people wont understand it. It is better worn when it rains and you deside to take a walk on the graveyard with your special someone. Slowly you both lay on the wet ground and can feel eyes looking at your every move, but you get lost on the eyes of your lover and float with the universe. Then you take the knife and cut her open, then your self. You both corres each other as the blood mixes with the wet soil. After that you both lay there, dying. The last thing they see is when Michel Almairac stands above them and says. Vos âmes vivront pour l'éternité and kneels down...
    Last edited by Peace; 14th July 2006 at 03:26 PM.

  53. #53

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by Peace
    Voleur de Roses: AH! The crypt is damp today my corpse bride. This actually smells like your making love to a beautiful zombie girl. [...] you get lost on the eyes of your lover and float with the universe. Then you take the knife and cut her open, then your self. You both corres each other as the blood mixes with the wet soil. After that you both lay there, dying. ...
    Dude, that sure is weird--I don't get that from VdR at all.
    --Chris
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  54. #54

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Mechant Loup

    Twice since this thread went up I've put some [/Bold]Mechant Loup[Bold] on the back of a hand to check it out yet again. I've given it full wearings from other samples in the years before, but confound it--I just hate this stuff.

    It's like a sweetened and "subtlized" Gucci Pour Homme--shavings of wood that are burnt, with honey, nuts, something antiseptic, and oh my god, just too much cloying nicey-nicey. Nothing mechant about it, and no fangs of the wolf either. This is one of those scents that is so sweet and charming nice boy that you could never look mad in it. It reminds me most of the effect of that Paradox Pour Homme dreck made by Jacomo, which is bland dried suede and cotton candy. There's no mechant, and zero loupine. There's some kind of tailing incense to it too, but mostly like ash from burned incense rather than incense itself. Yukko. Not my bag, fellas.

    Worst of all it's hard to get an oomph of the essence of the scent. Even in its sillage the fun part of the kernel of the scent, its nucleus, if you will, is far away from the nose, like smelling through a tube. Most of what you get with a whiff is filler, the actual smelly scent part is just a teasing molecule far away that you can never get up your nose--your whiff can pull it toward you, but before it goes into the death star of your nostril, your whiff is already all sucked in. I hate this. Parts of it are like the sulfur of a match head when it first lights too. No thanks.

    "Big Bad Wolf"--isn't that the way I've seen "Mechant Loup" translated a few times? Well this scent is a reminder that the big bad wolf huffed and puffed three times to blow the little pigs's houses down. This product is best a reminder that the wolf surely had bad breath.

    This one's for all of you guys out there, I guess.
    --Chris
    Last edited by DustB; 14th July 2006 at 06:08 PM.
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  55. #55

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by DustB
    Dude, that sure is weird--I don't get that from VdR at all.
    --Chris
    Hmmm

    To me thats obvious that those kinda things come to mind. Its a mix between good and evil and ad a healthy dose of romance, and thats why I get that

    It might be because im not still quite shure if i like the green aura of it, it just raunchy. Thats why i get the death wibe.

  56. #56

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by DustB
    Mechant Loup
    (...)
    Nothing mechant about it, and no fangs of the wolf either. This is one of those scents that is so sweet and charming nice boy that you could never look mad in it.
    (...)
    There's no mechant, and zero loupine.
    (...)
    "Big Bad Wolf"--isn't that the way I've seen "Mechant Loup" translated a few times? Well this scent is a reminder that the big bad wolf huffed and puffed three times to blow the little pigs's houses down. This product is best a reminder that the wolf surely had bad breath.

    I guess a most appropriate translation is "Naughty Wolf" more in the sense of mischievous or artful rather than bad... Just like what can be bad in a fable or just how can be bad a guy which speaks with a seductive and tempting voice rather than the "b@st@rd" kinda guy.

  57. #57

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by DustB
    Mechant Loup

    Twice since this thread went up I've put some [Bold]Mechant Loup[/Bold] on the back of a hand to check it out yet again. I've given it full wearings from other samples in the years before, but confound it--I just hate this stuff.
    Same here, it really is not for me. It has a damp feeling to i I just hate in fragrances and I find a similar dampness in David Beckham Instinct. Not very flattering...

  58. #58

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Mechant Loup is one of the rare L'Artisans I never warmed up to. It sounds better than it smells, the notes looked good to me but the smell was disappointing: there's something dusty and stale about it.

    Patchouli Patch is another one I don't like, no patchouli, instead it reminds me of stale Cream Crackers.

    And I love all those "museum-smelling" Etro scents! ML & PP just don't appeal to me.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  59. #59

    Cool Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Well,

    I recieved a 100ml bottle of Mure et Musc in the mail. It was quite a shocker for my uninitiated nostrils. Thats some powerful musk! I am leaft wondering about the comments (on the basenotes page for the cologne), something along the lines of '.. a scent everyone appreciates. In my opinion this fragrence would at least have polarized opinions about it.
    Time to try the next L'Artisan. I can't help but feel like Ron Burgundy with this stuff on.

  60. #60

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by DustB
    "Big Bad Wolf"--isn't that the way I've seen "Mechant Loup" translated a few times? Well this scent is a reminder that the big bad wolf huffed and puffed three times to blow the little pigs's houses down. This product is best a reminder that the wolf surely had bad breath.
    LOL

    When I first tried ML I too was a huge critic.
    Why on earth would I buy this when fragrances like Azzaro PH offered an anise hit and were blatantly ferocious?
    I was so wrong.

    After a few wears it started to make sense.
    ML is a fragrance of deception - much like the fairy tale.
    ML is the fragrance you wear to hide your darker/wolfish intentions.
    It's sweet, warming and comforting - like the smell of a candy store.
    It is the fragrance to wear when breaking the resolve of the virginal princess.

    I too used to think that ML was misnamed.
    When you think about the fairy tale you realise that it is perfectly named.
    ML will not make you a wolf - if anything it may soften your wolfish desires.
    BUT, if you provide the wolf, ML will do it's part to provide the disguise... until you're ready to reveal your true intentions and eat...

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