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  1. #61
    DustB's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    L’Artisan Parfumeur Patchouli (1979)

    I bought this in Paris. The next afternoon my cousin and I were sitting at a sidewalk café and at the next table there was a guy working his cell phone hard to make real estate deals. Hand gestures all over the place as he kept his eyes vacantly on his small table and his phone pressed to an ear. “God, that guy’s had a lot to drink,” I told my cousin, “he smells like lots of booze.”

    But it turned out I was only smelling myself.

    You see, good patchouli always smells boozy to me. And that’s what I absolutely love about this Patchouli by L’Artisan. It rocks, and it has the central element of thick patchouli to it but it isn’t thick in the viscous sense of too much goo. Patchouli is often compared to rotting wood, or damp earth, or damp damn wood, or something like that, but that doesn’t end the qualities of patchouli smells for me. For me they’re really dreamy when they’re the focus—boozy, earthly, and something sharp that’s caustic in my nose. I really go for it. Patchouli is such a rich element that it is almost as if it has top, middle, and basenotes all of its own. So damned complex a single element!

    So I go for patchoulis. I go for L’Artisan’s Patchouli as the first of these equals. It is moister, boozier, and brandy-er than others I know and love, Villoresi’s for example, and Molinard’s brilliant antique and dirt offering.

    L’Artisan has discontinued this fragrance. When I got my bottle it wasn’t in US distribution anymore and old stock in Paris was the only place to find it. (I combed Argentina and Uruguay before trying to find it in Valparaiso and Quito too, but confound it, no luck. Such pretty city names too. So scouring the earth led me to old supplies in Paris only. (I’m joking, but not about the discontinuation).) When I asked for it at the L’Artisan shop the SA urged me to pick the then new Patchouli Patch fragrance instead because it was “beaucoup plus distingué.” No thanks, cherie, I like my booze straight up.

    There are patchoulis that smell old somehow, in the sense that Molinard’s smells antique, as I mention, but there’s an ever-newness to L’Artisan’s—a bold in-your-face happy here-I-am, or in my case, “Here’s Chris!” It is a perfect party scent.

    I know all the drill about the beauty of lost discontinued scents—they’re the most beautiful, the longest lasting, the most evocative, and the most touching in all the right ways. In my nose and on my skin, however, L’Artisan’s Patchouli doesn’t stick around long enough. I don’t know what’s wrong because I can usually smell most of my scents all day, especially patchoulis, but somehow L’Artisan’s escapes my nose after a few hours. Instead, I guess, it pops up on gesticulating real estate dealers who I think must be drunk, and, again when I was rushing out of my old apartment building too.

    “Are you wearing patchouli oil?” asked Wayne, who’s only love is his bulldog, as we passed each other at the door of our apartment building a couple summers ago. Far out, it must still be there, I thought. But how to explain? Why yes of course, sir! But not just any ordinary patchouli oil, mind you, wouldn’t that be a bit too “brut,” shall we say? Why, of course, for me and you sir, only the very best Paris has to offer can suffice. I’m sure you’d agree.

    Can’t say that to Wayne. He’s a jerk anyway--his dog poops inside the apartment building while Wayne keeps walking three floors down the stairs and yells for his pooping dog to follow him. “I used to wear patchouli oil,” volunteers Wayne, getting a far away meditative look in his far away eyes before adding, “I was at Woodstock!”

    Great, man, I think, pooping dog, patchouli oil, and free love memories. Life in the big city.

    It’s enough to tell Wayne, yes, it’s patchouli oil.
    --Chris
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  2. #62

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I've not had much luck with the L'Artisans. Most of the ones I've tried are just too fleeting on my skin. I like the idea of several of them, but the initial burst is lovely,the drydown follows too quickly and is soon gone. Premier Figuier is the sole exception, but I think I prefer the greener fig of Diptyque Philosykos. Dzing!, Passage d'Enfer, La Chasse and L'Eau were all just a little too ephemeral and the patchouli in Voleur overwhelmed me (not a big patch fan). The descriptions of Voleur sounded like my idea of heaven, but the reality was my personal patchouli hell. On the plus side, a couple of friends of mine adore the Passage samples I gave them. We all think it smells like pencil shavings, though.

  3. #63

    Unhappy Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    OK...since we are talking about long discontinued L'Artisan's, does anyone remember Incroyable? Maybe it was L'eau de Incroyable? It had notes of plum and blond tobacco. It has been so long since I had a bottle I don't really remember what it smelled like. I had so many compliments on this fragrance that it was a sure bet. I miss it a lot. I vowed to never be without it...

  4. #64

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    That discontinued Patchouli was just perfect. Of the existing L'Artisan scents Voleur de Roses comes closest to it, Patchouli Patch has nothing to do with it.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  5. #65

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    There are always certain L'Artisans that gets all the attention; VdR, Passage D'Enfer, Mechant Loup, Patchouli Patch, Navegar, Dzing!, La Chasse aux Papillons and others...

    How about the ones that don't get a whole lot of attention; Thé pour un Eté, Mimosa pour Moi, La Haie Fleurie du Hameau, Tubéreuse, Verte Violette, Oeillet Sauvage, Drôle de Rose, Santal and Jour de Fête? I'd love to see reviews or at least comments about some of those.

    And where is L'Eau d'Ambre which almost always gets mentioned in the amber threads? I can't even remember if it has been mentioned here yet... Oh and the discontinued Extrait de Songes? I'd love to read some love notes about that one too!

    Keep it going.

  6. #66

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by shifts
    How about the ones that don't get a whole lot of attention; Thé pour un Eté, Mimosa pour Moi, La Haie Fleurie du Hameau, Tubéreuse, Verte Violette, Oeillet Sauvage, Drôle de Rose, Santal and Jour de Fête? I'd love to see reviews or at least comments about some of those.

    And where is L'Eau d'Ambre which almost always gets mentioned in the amber threads?
    Jour de Fête is lovely! Very light, sweet and gentle scent with almond and wheat notes, as soothing as a bowl of chocolate chip cookie ice cream... I love to wear it on my days off or before bedtime.

    L'Eau d'Ambre is lovely, too (but Ambre Extrême is the one I have), a light, easy-to-wear amber scent.

    Drôle de Rose is nicely "old-fashioned", very feminine rose and violet scent.

    Mimosa pour Moi, Verte Violette, Oeillet Sauvage I tried but didn't like.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  7. #67

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by shifts
    How about the ones that don't get a whole lot of attention; Thé pour un Eté, Mimosa pour Moi, La Haie Fleurie du Hameau, Tubéreuse, Verte Violette, Oeillet Sauvage, Drôle de Rose, Santal and Jour de Fête?
    Oeillet Sauvage is a bit on the edge, but I like it very much. It's a cool, not too sweet, slightly powdery fragrance which resembles of a true carnation flower. I've never found something similar in another fragrance (the most scents with carnation remind of spicey cloves).

    A true powder powerhouse is Orchidee Blanche. Starts a bit harsh, sopey, with a touch of jasmine, later there's some subtle vanilla accord and an awesome drydown. Unique, classy, slightly eccentric and like a fragrance from another time.

  8. #68

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    OK, I just read on "Now Smell This" http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/ that Dzongkha is not only for real but will be out this Fall! The scent is inspired by Bertrand Duchaufour's trip to Bhutan. He found temples there called Dzongs. The following is swiped from the above blog (which it turns out is swiped from http://www.alzd.de/2006/07/17/dzongk...rfumeur/?p=587. )

    In the top note of Dzongkha, the freshness of peonies and the pink flavor of lychees vibrate with cardamom. The heart of the fragrance is accompanied by chai notes (spicy tea with milk) that soften the strength of wood where vetiver stands out in the fumes of incense. This intensity is accentuated by cypriol (Indian papyrus) and leather notes. Iris with its powdery bottom note symbolizes both the stony aspect and the softness of the fragrance.

    Scroll down and read Stanzi's report on "Now Smell This" about the experience of trying it out!!!! I personally can't wait.

  9. #69

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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Many thanks for the scoop! I can't wait to try this, either. I love Timbuktu and Dzongkha sounds as good if not better.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  10. #70

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by shanester35
    The descriptions of Voleur sounded like my idea of heaven, but the reality was my personal patchouli hell.
    I concur. When this thread started I had just received my first L'Artisan decants. After consideration, I kind of like "the pour un ete" though it smells mostly of tea with not much else and seems to have a slightly synthetic edge to it. Voleur- I had very high hopes for thius but just smells of heavy patchouli for me. I actually dislike it!
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  11. #71

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I sampled some, and while I apreciate the artistry (sorry if I spelled that wrong) behind it, I still have to find one I'll spend money on. None of them grabbed me that much, or I'm afraid that I don't wear them on a regular base.
    I bought Mechant Loupe once but it bored me soon. Dzing and Bois Farine were fun to sample, but again I didn't feel I had to spend money on. I really want to try Fou d'Absinthe though.

  12. #72
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    It's official: I have found the first L'Artisan that I just can't stand. While Timbuktu and PdE were not for me, the artistry intrigued me and kept me sniffing. But when I applied Ambre Extreme I no-holds-barred hated it. Cloy-city. Then again, its hot and humid, so maybe if it were snowing and there were frost crystals on the window, I'd like AE's wooly embrace, but as it stands now, this sh*t is gross. Jen's reaction: "smells like bad grandma"
    Last edited by Joel_Cairo; 25th July 2006 at 01:43 PM.

  13. #73

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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Too funny! When I wore Ambre Extrême to work, a workmate fell for it like 16 tons, twisted my arm until I gave her the name and later bought herself a bottle on her next Paris trip...
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  14. #74
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Joel, you must have had a bad skin reaction, because AE seemed like a simple, overall nice smelling scent to me. Not amazing, but very pleasant and not grandma-ey at all. I agree with you too that this is definately a winter scent. Very warm and cozy. It has monster sillage and longevity in a warm cuddly almost cloying but yet kind of nice way in the vein of Musc Ravageur. Ambre Sultan takes the cake though.

  15. #75
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    Smile Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I received my first 5 L'Artisan samples from Beauty Cafe last week and have now had a chance to try all of them. Here's my impressions:

    Timbuktu: The clear favorite out of the bunch. Very dry and woody--like an oaky chardonnay. Spicy, too. Reminded me of YSL M7 in the opening, but certainly took on a life of its own. Right up my alley. I will buy this one.

    Passage D'Enfer: This is the one I was most looking forward to receiving. But it smells to similar to Burberry Touch, which is one of my all time favorites, that it totally threw me for a loop. Passage D'Enfer has more smoke and incense to my nose and never carries that "sweetness" of Touch, but there's something there that's very akin to each other even though I can't find any similar notes other than "white musk". Passage D'Enfer is clearly the more sophisticated and generally more well made of the two, but can I bring myself to buy something--especially at that price--that reminds me so much of something else? This one I'm probably going to have to sample a few more times in order to make that decision. I still love it and it runs a close second. Maybe I should ditch the Touch.

    Mechant Loup: A bit too gourmand for me. It lacked that "bite" that I was looking for in this one. I certainly didn't count on it as being so sweet. And I don't mind that in a fragrance--HM Hanae Mori is an all time fav as is Burberry Touch as I mentioned--but maybe it's the "sweet" AND the "nutty" together.

    Mure et Musc Extreme: I thought it was going to be a given that I would like this one---I was wrong. I like the blackberry idea, but there's way too much for me and not enough musk. And I'd like the musk to be a bit darker, more of an autumn-type scent. This was more summery than autumn. Does that make sense? Anyway, I was disappointed. It's still well crafted.....just not for me.

    Dzing!: Huh? What? I'm still making up my mind about this one. And these types of fragrances that kinda slap me in the face with something that's totally out there...something that I've never experienced and I'm not quite sure about...are usually the ones that I end up loving. But the jury is still out on this one. I think I like the anamalic wildness of the opening better than the drydown--which reminds me of Bvlgari Black with a bit more wet cardboard box in there. I'm still missing the "baked goods" and in this case think it could be a bit sweeter for my taste. Very, very unusual and different. I'm probably going to love it......but need to figure it out. I just put this one on tonight and it's constantly metamorphosing into something different. It's a wild ride for sure.

    So my first experiences with L'Artisan are not what I expected. I think I now have a better understanding of what makes a well-crafted fragrance. There's a greater depth.....something a bit unexpected, some kind of contradiction, a cleverness. There seems to be more of a thought process behind the fragrance. I'm certainly not disappointed....and in fact, I'm more intrigued than ever. Along with my L'Artisan samples I also received all of the Comme des Garcons Incense series, Idole de Lubin, and Satellite Padparadscha. Something is now questioning why I should hold on to my Liz Claiborne Curve Crush. But that's a topic for another discussion.

    I think I'm really going to like the house of L'Artisan as a whole. I already know my next 5 samples to pick:

    Fou d'Absinthe
    Navegar
    Pimento Bruland
    Tea for Two
    Voleur de Roses

    I feel like Alice tumbling down the Rabbit Hole.

  16. #76

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by shifts
    Those are the only full bottles I have from the company, even though there are several more I find highly intruiging. Shame on me. And even though I've tested nine other L'Artisan I bet my next purchase from them will be a blind one: Tea for Two.

    Definitely buy this. It is amazing. Probably the best fragrance I've ever smelled.

  17. #77
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Is this house referendum on L'Artisan going to stay here forever or are we going to switch houses soon?
    -

  18. #78

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by eric
    I sampled some, and while I apreciate the artistry (sorry if I spelled that wrong) behind it, I still have to find one I'll spend money on. None of them grabbed me that much, or I'm afraid that I don't wear them on a regular base.
    I bought Mechant Loupe once but it bored me soon. Dzing and Bois Farine were fun to sample, but again I didn't feel I had to spend money on. I really want to try Fou d'Absinthe though.
    I received the Fou d'Absinthe sample 3 days after I mailed them,..why are they doing this,...sigh.. They do have excelent customer service, I have to admit.
    And on top of all, I like Fou d'Absinthe. Maybe too boring (conventional)for the die hard L'Artisan fans?
    I like the masculine , piney smell and I do smell the anise note in the topnotes, but only for a few secs. Why do I think B*Men all the time? If they try too atract more men to buy their fragrances, they may succeed with this. Now they only have to do something about those prices! ..sigh..

  19. #79

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by Joel_Cairo
    But when I applied Ambre Extreme I no-holds-barred hated it. Cloy-city.
    i have a sample of it, and - it's a rare thing - I can not stand Ambre Extreme physically. For me this scent is cloying cloying... and disgusting


    Quote:
    Originally Posted by shanester35
    The descriptions of Voleur sounded like my idea of heaven, but the reality was my personal patchouli hell.


    I was compareing Voleur de Rose and F. Malle's Une Rose. Une Rose is really a wonderful rose. Voleur de rose -TOO humid, TOO patchouli.
    Last edited by DreamerII; 20th August 2006 at 12:06 AM.
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    Real beauty: 1) Frederic Malle 1-20 2) Chanel Egoiste 3) YSL Opium pour Homme edp 4) TF Noir de Noir

    Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel

  20. #80

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I am not to crazy about L'Artisan
    the only few I liked seemed to have week staying power, too bad...

  21. #81

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Must add some comments about the latest L'Artisan additions to my wardrobe.

    I got Dzongkha from hub for belated birthday present and we both love it! It's a cool, ethereal, meditative scent, calming and soothing, slightly melancholy. It has that "cold stone" impression familiar from Etro Messe de Minuit but is less dramatic, and more suitable for the office.

    Then, I finally made acquaintance with Les épices de la passion trio: Piment Brûlant, Poivre Piquant and Safran Troublant.
    I have tried them before but they didn't grab my attention then, maybe I just wasn't on the mood for them because now I'm smitten!

    Surprisingly, Poivre Piquant is my favourite, I fell for it like 16 tons, utterly and instantly. After testing the three simultaneously, this was the one that demanded to be worn on its own first, which I have done, starting yesterday... It's wonderfully comfy and cosy, easy-to-wear, milky and peppery, slightly sweet.

    Safran Troublant came close, but must wear it for a couple of days to get to know it better. I liked it a lot and it was hub's fave of the trio. It has same kind of milkiness as Poivre Piquant but is sweeter, it's also more bitter (that's the saffron note which always has that quality, think Diptyque Opôné for example).

    Piment Brûlant was the one I liked least. It sounds better than it is, I think DSH Piment et Chocolat (from Les Rouges series) is a much better interpretation of this theme. What I like about Piment Brûlant is its very realistic smell of fresh chili, but it's more of a scent interesting to sniff, not necessarily to wear... (and I rarely say this about any perfume, being a notorious weirdo-wearer! )
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  22. #82

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Finally making my comments on this thread - seeing as it has been brought back from the dead.

    I own quite a few L'artisans (11 to be exact) - and am planning on getting 2 more. Obviously I love the house and its creations. I love their light-hearted playful nature and to me they have the essential feature of what the French refer to as 'chic'. Beauty that doesn't try too hard, and has a good laugh.

    One of the things I love about this house is its musk, which is a light almost-floral white and opaque smell at the base of quite a few of their smells. Smells like doggy fur and clean clothes and berries.

    My first purchases were Mure et Musc extreme and Passage d'Enfer.

    MetM extreme is a lovely dark jammy liquid that evaporates and leaves behind the musk that I mentioned above. Sweet but not overly so and the musk is so beautiful, warm skin - long after a wash, vegetal - green, clean-clothes and with slight berry hints that remind you of the jam that opened it. Brilliant perfume that stays very close to the skin but lasts forever. 24 hours on my skin and more than 2 days on clothes. You can still smell it when you pick that shirt you were wearing on the day to put into wash a few days later.

    Passage d'Enfer is as people have mentioned - a beautiful cedar and aloeswood laced incense perfume that hints at florals that don't exist. I do believe that the florals come from the floral musk that ends this perfume. Lasts long enough - but is essentially a light smell, that floats around you like insence smoke and disappears after that. About 6 hours.

    After falling in love with those, I purchased Voleur d'Roses. I fell in love with the wet loamy smell of roses that fell into wet dark soil during a rainstorm. fells like you took rest, lying down in the base of a huge rose shrub during a rainstorm. Don't get much plum or leather here, but the rose is of a dark nature and I guess atleast some of it is because of the leathery accord. Lasting power is average at about 6 hours. Essentially a beautiful patchouli smell after the first 3.

    Mechant Loup - this one works wonderfully on my skin, being a fresh and nutty smell that is deliciously honeyed musk on my skin after the first few hours. The hazelnut that starts the fragrance is rather light. I get a great aniseed smell from this fragrance, which helps keep the fragrance fresh - which is really necessary as honey can smell like urine and musk like fur. I get the huge furry shaggy dog smell from this because of those two. The woods are lovely. When I first saw the promos and images of the forest for the Terry Gilliam movie, The Brothers' Grimm, I immediately thought of this smell. It is the smell of woods and dark nasty furry animals in there - all viewed through a fairy tale like glass. On a lot of people, this fragrance apparently turns out rather more straightforward. Not mine.

    Vetiver - Just one of the best vetivers in the market. Period. Cool and almost invisible notes of mint at the opening and then just raw green woody - almost brutally so - notes of vetiver. Not at all stylized and dressed up Guerlain - just very very natural. Almost as nature intended. One definitely for the vetiver lovers though.

    Then at a L'artisan special event, I ordered L'Eau d'Navigateur. I cannot say how much I love this smell. Deep smoky notes of coffee and spices - almost a haze of spices suspended in smoke and coffee. There is a lovely leathery note - which could be cistus labdanum or castroteum. This one again lasts over 24 hours on me. Quite a linear smell, with all the players playing together till the end, but with the coffee lasting longer than anything else. The next morning when you wake, you are left with a slight smell of latte on your shirt and skin.

    When I first "understood" Orange Blossom - neroli rather - as a smell, I needed something to satisfy my craving. I got Fleur d'oranger from L'Artisan and SL at the same time. Of these the latter I wear more, but appreciate the former more, which I wear so little of only because I am scared of running out it. This is the probably the most photorealistic impression of Orange Blossom I have ever come aross. It literally smells like a orange tree in full bloom on a cool summer night. When you smell it from afar you get the spicy cleanness of neroli. The sweet, white, dreamy, clean and yet almost filthy, unwashed smell of the flower itself is what the heart is all about. The aromatic and spiky nature of the crushed leaves is the petitgrain in it and finally it all ends on a vegetal smell, of crushed green and beeswax and honey - reminding one of orange blossom honey. If you have ever held a blooming twig of the tree with you in your hand for a few hours, marvelling at its wonder (and I have) - this perfume is exactly the way your hand smells after that. I cannot imagine how someone could have created something so exact and so perfect. Hats off to incredible quality raw materials.

    Dzing! was one I brought based on recos alone and I was not upset. While I would not go so far as to call it a masterpiece, it is one I absolutely adore. It is a shapeshifting fragrance. Every time I wear it, I get something different for a while. The ending though is the classic ethyl-maltol laced sweetness that everybody knows and is familiar with. The opening though is just the thing that takes the smell beyond the realm of the ordinary. The smell of fresh leather - new shoes in a shoe store - shiny leather, hamster cage and smoke is just brilliant. I love dirty smells and this one is right up there with the stinkers. The ending though is not my favourite. Caramel like sweetness is alright - but not one of my favourite endings. I like it - but do not adore it in eitherDior Homme or A*men. For a long time, almost half its ending, Dzing! is just that. That said, it is still a great perfume.

    Safran Troublant - this one I brought because saffron is one of my all time fave smells. Boy is the opening perfect! A blast of saffron so sharp, it is like putting your nose into a huge bag of saffron. From there it is a relatively simple, but undeniably lovely voyage through rose and sandalwood to vanilla. This perfume reminds me, and infact feels very similar to, a slightly less complex version of Chanel's Bois des Iles. Magnificent! The vanilla and sandalwood could be a bit much for people that do not care for that creamy accord so prominent in the endings of Egoiste and Bulgari Black and Bois des Iles. Since I am not one of them, I find it delightful. A perfect comfort scent.

    Timbuktu - this one I bought after huge amounts of deliberation. I went back and forth because it was so strange and dry. Unlike anything I had ever smelt before. Green and woody and incensy. This was just brilliant - though I could not see it to begin with. You know sometimes how you don't know if you like it or not - but cannot stop thinking about it? I must've gotten over 10 samples of this one from Barney's. I finally realised that if it was a smell that kept me going back to it so often, and one I could not forget, maybe I really did like it Then a full bottle was bought. Still not an easy perfume - but so utterly unique, I would not settle for anything else on days when I want the dry sensuality of baked earth and green and incense.

    Dzongkha is my latest purchase. From those that remember my initial reactions to the smell, I still stand by it. Starting with a blast of leather - similar in tone - shiny, clean, new, patent leather - to the one that starts Dzing!, this one becomes a spicy fresh smell that reminds me of freshly washed stone. In India, grinding stones used to made of rough granite. When my mum used it grind her spices, and then washed the stone clean, there was a lingering smell of spices on it. But above all was this cold smell, of stone and water. Not a smell - but more a feeling. The same smell could be had in temples of south india - built of granite again, when the steps were washed first thing in the morning. This is the smell I get at the heart of Dzongkha. While I know this is proboably just the iris and cardamom playing tricks, I cannot deny the strong association to washed stone. I guess it is an association you need to have in your head first. If not, I can see why it would appear to be a plain cold and metallic iris and nothing else. The incese in this is lovely too. Tingly and nose clearing. Love it, love it, love it.

    The next purchases for me are Jour de fete (a soft and comforting almond scent) and Orchidee Blanche (spiky gasoline opening - a divine honeyed-iris ending).

    Ones I wish were still in production are Corporal and Riviera Palace.

    Hats off to L'artisan for producing some of my all time favourite smells. Here is to a house with intelligence, character, manners, wisdom and a sense of humour. Tres chic!!
    Last edited by paranoidandroid; 6th November 2006 at 01:34 AM.

  23. #83

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I welcome this House Referendum surfacing again! Most contributions are worth going back to from time to time, or for a particular fragrance. This latest one, ParanoidAndroid, does it for me because your views on two favorites express my own thoughts and feelings almost exactly! The whole thing has been masterly composed. I feel encouraged to now take your reviews as recommendations for colognes I do not know yet.

    I wish House Referenda could be archived separately for easy access. What would it hurt to keep the latest HR 'sticky' until a new one has been started? 4'400 viewings cannot be ignored. Congratulation, Chris!
    Last edited by narcus; 7th November 2006 at 04:25 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  24. #84
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Seeing as the thread has come back, I'll add my two scents.

    The odd quirkiness of many of L'artisan's fragrances (I think Voleur de roses was my first experience) along with their richness and subtlety really connected with me immediately. Of all the one's that I've smelled, I have yet to find one I don't like.

    I currently have Mechant Loup, Navegar, L'eau Dambre, L'eau de l'artisan, Tea for Two, Mimosa Pour Moi, Passage d'enfer, Timbuktu, Patchouli Patch, and Dzongkha. Dzing was the only one I sampled and then didn't buy, because it seemed a lot like another favorite of mine, Knize Ten.

    In short, L'artisan is never one of those houses that will sell 10 million bottles of a particular fragrance, but that 1 degree of oddity/quirkiness is exactly what I was looking for. And, though pricey, it is certainly cheaper than bespoke. Not to mention that I love the simplicity of the packaging. Though brands like Bond No. 9 have really gorgeous, glitzy packaging, I like the simplicity and directness of L'artisans approach. After all, it's what's INSIDE that counts...

    John
    Last edited by rach2jlc; 24th November 2006 at 05:50 PM.

  25. #85
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    In light of the recent discussion on L'Artisans, I am resurrecting this thread so that members can add to it and take advantage of the fine comments already made in this thread.

    Perhaps its time for another referendum?
    -

  26. #86

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    This thread is done. It was long ago as well.
    Questions?
    PM me.

  27. #87
    Hoos's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    First, I want to thank everyone who posted their experiences and impressions. Very informative. It also makes me pine for some of the discontinued fragrances. L'Artisan is the first French house that I've enjoyed the fragrances of to such an extent. Their unique qualities make them very appealing.

    Part of that stems from my long break from fragrances. Honestly, many of the "new" frags remind me of fragrances from the 80s and before. PdN New York, while a great fragrance, reminds me strongly of some scent from the 80s or 90s. Ditto many of the bottles I've sniffed and samples I've tried. Terre d'Hermes' geranium note is nearly identical to some scent an aunt of mine used to wear. While the fragrance palette may be limited, it doesn't mean a house needs to recreate the best seller from 20 or 200 years ago with just a slight change.

    So, finding fragrances that are unique (at least to me), is something worth celebrating. It's a big part of the reason I like the iPdiF house, too.

    I've sampled several of their scents. Some I love, some I appreciate, some are meh. One thing I do appreciate is that they are not projection monsters, yet they maintain a vague and mysterious sillage that jumps out and surprises one from time to time. I do plan on buying Navegar today and hope to get some samples of others. Here's my brief impressions of what I've tried.

    Dzing! - straw, horses, a carnival tent, and calliope music in the background. A wonderful, fun fragrance. I just don't know when I'd wear it.

    Navegar - mint freshly picked and rinsed under water leads to a nice, luscious middle with hints of pepper and spice, hints of green banks on a river. Impressive and masculine.

    Mechant Loup - Hazelnut and honey with a breath of spice and travel. But sophisticated and artfully done. I really appreciate this and it may become bottleworthy after another sample. It's one I'm on the fence about.

    Voleur de Roses - I sprayed a sample of this on at a small boutique that had a very limited line. I didn't like the rose at all and it faded to nothing in 10 minutes. The tester bottle may have been old and I have another sample from L'Artisan at home, so I'll try it again. The lack of any artistry when I originally tried it was just very surprising - which leads me to think the tester bottle may have been old.

    I really applaud them for creativity and taking a chance with "risky" scents. They've created some amazing fragrances - all of which I'd love to sample eventually.
    Brent

    Catherine Deneuve: "You should put scent where you like to be kissed."


  28. #88

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Ah! A place where I can ask if Premier Figuer Extreme is either masculine or feminine. The directory lists it as feminine but I thought all the L'Artisan offerings were unisex?

  29. #89

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Quote Originally Posted by SirSlarty View Post
    Ah! A place where I can ask if Premier Figuer Extreme is either masculine or feminine. The directory lists it as feminine but I thought all the L'Artisan offerings were unisex?
    I sampled it and it struck me as being very unisex. The fruity fig and creamy notes of the almond milk make it seem slightly feminine in the opening, but as it settles, you get more green, earthy notes that seem to make it more masculine. With most unisex fragrances, I feel it tends to sway one way or the other (for example, i have a hard time picturing a woman pulling off Dzing! or PdE nearly was well as a man) but Premier Figuer Extreme is right down the middle. It would be delightful to smell on anyone.
    ♦Wishlist♦

    Nasomatto - Silver Musk
    Prada - Prada Man/Amber Pour Homme
    Tom Ford - Oud Wood

    A L'Artisan Cap (old or new style)

    Clothing + Goodies for sale!

  30. #90
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I think they're all wonderfully unisex. My first bottle was L'Eau de Jatamansi, which some classify as an outright feminine. I bought it mostly to experience nard, which seems to be a rarity these days, with the thought of letting my wife wear it. She thought it was too "Indian" - she said it smelled like a head shop - so I was stuck with it. But with a few wears, the spicy and strange scent of the nard grabbed me like it must have done for the ancients, and I was hooked. I wear it under my clothes (specifically under my arms), and it brings down the topnotes to a level that feels quite masculine to me.

    My samples of Safran Troublant and Fou d'Absinthe are gone. I will be buying one of them, or possibly Timbuktu or Dzing, which I have not experienced yet, but which seem to garner raves.

    Life is short. At least one bottle from L'Artisan should be part of it.

    PS - thanks for resurrecting this thread. The earlier comments were great reading.

  31. #91

    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I love the depth and oddity of the l'Artisan scents. I don't like them all, but I do love the way they strive to be different. I also really enjoy the fact that they appear to be primarily designed for your own personal pleasure, rather than as "magnets" for the opposite sex.

    That said, I own and especially love:

    Navegar - This is an extra-strong gin and tonic sipped on an old dock extending into the Atlantic from Cape Cod during those lovely "bridge" weeks between summer and autumn. This is my ideal aquatic; if only it lasted a bit longer.

    L'Eau de Navigateur - A newly tanned peice of leather that the tanner spilled a cup of milky but strong coffee on. (As this has been discontinued, I've got a bottle in reserve.) No longevity problems here: this one goes on and on.

    Dzongka - So hard to describe, and seemingly not much-loved on this thread. But after the disconcerting opening blast, the dry-down is exquisite.

    I'm on the hunt for a bottle of Timbuktu, and am still debating the merits of buying Fou d'Absinthe and Dzing! The latter is evidently being discontinued, according the Luca Turin. Unfortunately, my local store only has the 100ml bottle left, and I'm not sure I like it enough to pay 125-odd Euro for it.

  32. #92
    Renato's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- L'Artisan Parfumeur

    L'Artisan aren't my favourite house. There's nothing they sell that says "Male occupying this space".

    I've only got five of their scents, two big bottles I bought at half price, two small bottles were given to me for free as I bought the latter two, and one my wife gave back to me because she was getting a headache whenever she wore it.

    That said, there are plenty of niche houses that I like a lot less than L'Artisan.
    Renato

    P.S. Ooops, I've actually got six of their scents - I forgot about the one I paid $10 for.
    Last edited by Renato; 31st May 2008 at 09:53 AM.

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