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  1. #1

    Default Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    I got news from WWD.com that Tom Ford will introduce, in the style of Frederic Malle, 12 (!!!) unisex fragrances next spring called Tom Ford Private Blend. They will have an original run in his soon to open stores in New York and Milan, and later in very selected points of sale. There isn't much more info about the fragrances themselves except that Tom Ford said that this particular collection was created with perfume connaisseurs in mind.

    The Tom Ford stores will also feature a service for private blending your very own scent. Now the article doesn't explain if this kind of blending is in the style of Aveda (a few essences mixed to a base in a few minutes) or in the House of Guerlain, Cartier or Jean Patou way (very expensive with interview and different "fittings" on the course of several months).

    Notice: I know it's a bit of a double posting, as I already posted about the article on the female board. I just wanted to make sure everybody had a chance to learn about this exciting news.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    Wow. This is huge! Is he really coming out with all 12 at once? When did he have the time to make 12 great new scents? There should definately be some gems in that lot. Hopefully there won't be any controversy over what Tom Ford thinks of maids.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    Quote Originally Posted by cedriceccentric
    I got news from WWD.com that Tom Ford will introduce, in the style of Frederic Malle, 12 (!!!) unisex fragrances next spring called Tom Ford Private Blend. They will have an original run in his soon to open stores in New York and Milan, and later in very selected points of sale.
    I'll try to have news about the opening of the milanese store and the launch of the frags and let you know what I discover... I really hope the whole thing will be like the Malle (with a high-tech osmotheque boutique, a stunning line of scents) and like LV for the custom scents (interviews, fittings, etc...) Something targetted to point very high! I'm so curious...

  4. #4

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    There are so many niche brands coming out almost every day. I think it wont be long before there is going to be further classification into niche-niche and niche-commercial...
    -

  5. #5

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    Something tells me I will be spending a lot on these.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    My first impression is " Another marketing ploy". Tom Ford has been finding himself since he left Gucci. His acting endeavors didn't quite pick up here in Hollywood and his sunglasses/optical line is just doing so-so. I wish Mr. Ford all the luck.

    Frederic Malle, however is a 'professional nose' and comes from a lineage of noses. Mr. Malle has pedigree, while Tom Ford again, was a media darling that attributed to his success with Gucci. Wish I could be excited, but I have reservations. I just can't compare the two. Imitation is the best form of flattery, I guess.
    "A great perfume is a work of art, it can lift our days, haunt our nights and create the milestones of our memories. Fragrance is liquid emotion. And that never goes out of fashion. " MICHAEL EDWARDS

  7. #7

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    This should be interesting. I look forward to trying these.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    I like that he (and the powers that be) gave the new EL's YouthDew scent a go but i don't like that he took all the credit for "creating" it, so props to the whole group that was involved in it! you know who you are!

  9. #9
    Serpent
    Guest

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    Tom Ford is not, and never has been, a true designer. He's more of a fashion conceptualist. Actually, he's an just opportunist who came along at the right place and time, fresh off the heels of a failed modeling career and fast-talked his way into passing off others' fashion ideas (mainly Halston and Yves Saint Laurent) as his own. He can't sew or really draw; he mainly oversaw teams of real designers who implement his ideas.

    His biggest talent was for promotion. After the austerity of the early 1990s, he knew the raw, sweaty sex he brought to Gucci would capture people's imagination. (Think of it: People were very rarely actually wearing much in the way of clothes in his "clothing" ads, a strategy other companies like Abercrombie & Fitch have since picked up on.) Again, the right place at the right time. But that wore thin after awhile, and Gucci got repetitive, especially after he turned Yves Saint Laurent into Gucci II. (Yves Saint Laurent actually closed his haute couture house rather than allow Ford to get his hands on it.) He's so limited, his final collection for Gucci was an homage to himself, a repetition of his old designs, which were, for the most part, a regurgitation of other designers' works.

    I look at the Estée Lauder counters here in town, and many still have stocks of Youth Dew Amber Nude, which many sales associates told me would be sold out "any day" back last Christmas. And it's almost August now. I suspect I could probably find someone to ghost up a bottle of Amber Nude for me if I wanted to give it as a gift next Christmas. It just didn't seem to capture the public's imagination. Just like the Azurée oil doesn't seem to be. And M7 didn't. And Rive Gauche pour Homme and the relaunched Rive Gauche didn't. And Gucci Eau de Parfum didn't. Even Cinéma hasn't taken the world by storm. Tom Ford has a wooden nose when it comes to scents for the masses. And while each of these scents has their packs of supporters here, they also have nearly as many detractors.

    I think claiming the scents are for "perfume connoisseurs" is Ford's way of saying they're for they're for "people who like my odd, thick, dusky fragrances that are proven to be uncommercial and who have too much money and too little sense to realize that almost no one's wearing the scents I made at Estée Lauder, YSL, and Gucci anyway."
    Last edited by Serpent; 30th July 2006 at 03:06 AM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    AH-MEN!
    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    Tom Ford is not, and never has been, a true designer. He's more of a fashion conceptualist. Actually, he's an just opportunist who came along at the right place and time, fresh off the heels of a failed modeling career and fast-talked his way into passing off others' fashion ideas (mainly Halston and Yves Saint Laurent) as his own. He can't sew or really draw; he mainly oversaw teams of real designers who implement his ideas.

    His biggest talent was for promotion. After the austerity of the early 1990s, he knew the raw, sweaty sex he brought to Gucci would capture people's imagination. (Think of it: People were very rarely actually wearing much in the way of clothes in his "clothing" ads, a strategy other companies like Abercrombie & Fitch have since picked up on.) Again, the right place at the right time. But that wore thin after awhile, and Gucci got repetitive, especially after he turned Yves Saint Laurent into Gucci II. (Yves Saint Laurent actually closed his haute couture house rather than allow Ford to get his hands on it.) He's so limited, his final collection for Gucci was an homage to himself, a repetition of his old designs, which were, for the most part, a regurgitation of other designers' works.

    I look at the Estée Lauder counters here in town, and many still have stocks of Youth Dew Amber Nude, which many sales associates told me would be sold out "any day" back last Christmas. And it's almost August now. I suspect I could probably find someone to ghost up a bottle of Amber Nude for me if I wanted to give it as a gift next Christmas. It just didn't seem to capture the public's imagination. Just like the Azurée oil doesn't seem to be. And M7 didn't. And Rive Gauche pour Homme and the relaunched Rive Gauche didn't. And Gucci Eau de Parfum didn't. Even Cinéma hasn't taken the world by storm. Tom Ford has a wooden nose when it comes to scents for the masses. And while each of these scents has their packs of supporters here, they also have nearly as many detractors.

    I think claiming the scents are for "perfume connoisseurs" is Ford's way of saying they're for they're for "people who like my odd, thick, dusky fragrances that are proven to be uncommercial and who have too much money and too little sense to realize that almost no one's wearing the scents I made at Estée Lauder, YSL, and Gucci anyway."
    "A great perfume is a work of art, it can lift our days, haunt our nights and create the milestones of our memories. Fragrance is liquid emotion. And that never goes out of fashion. " MICHAEL EDWARDS

  11. #11

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    So Serpent, tell us what you really think.

    Seriously, most of the fashion houses don't interest me, especially
    when they try to shock me into paying attention. Calvin Klein is one
    of the worst offenders.

    But, I have to say I love that Gucci pour Homme.
    :-)

  12. #12
    Serpent
    Guest

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    Quote Originally Posted by trumpet_guy
    So Serpent, tell us what you really think.
    Eh. I'm ambivalent.

    Seriously, most of the fashion houses don't interest me, especially
    when they try to shock me into paying attention. Calvin Klein is one
    of the worst offenders.
    Calvin Klein is really quite tame compared to the likes of Gucci in its day or Dolce & Gabbana now. (For example, in Calvin Klein's ads, unlike the iconic Gucci ad featured in Fight Club, the models actually had their underwear on.)

    But, I have to say I love that Gucci pour Homme.
    Yeah, it's doing great business... flying off the shelves of every TJ Maxx and Marshall's it's stocked in.

    The only scent from the Ford era that seems to have any consistent commercial legs is the women's Envy, which is still routinely stocked at nearly every department store. (Envy for Men and the women's Rush and Rush 2 can sometimes be found, too.) The successful Gucci Eau de Parfum II, a fix for the the largely disappointing Gucci Eau de Parfum (touted as "the next No. 5" - yeah, right), came at the end of Ford's tenure and really is the first post-Ford scent.

    * My criticism of the Ford-helmed scents is not to say the fragrances are bad aesthetically, by the way. I own and wear M7 and Rive Gauche pour Homme and actually esteem Gucci Eau de Parfum and Cinéma. But Tom Ford has yet to oversee a scent that has been a popular success, and, moreover, all of his scents tend to have the same dusky, oversexed, goin'-to-the-disco quality to them, be they male or female. Kinda like his clothes...
    Last edited by Serpent; 30th July 2006 at 05:54 AM.

  13. #13

    Question Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    12 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    what a number??? can't get it

    I mean Hermes started with 4, DH with 3, Marc Jacob 3....can't imagine what the is base concept behind them ??12 !!!!

  14. #14

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    Quote Originally Posted by cedriceccentric
    I got news from WWD.com that Tom Ford will introduce, in the style of Frederic Malle, 12 (!!!) unisex fragrances next spring called Tom Ford Private Blend. ......
    Friends! Frederick Malle is a french Editor, where genius perfumers 'publish' their own creations. That is what makes Malle so unique! I can well imagine that Tom Ford would like to copy the Malle system. Serpent's comments fit in very well here. His success will depend on the perfumers willing to cooperate. So the main question is: who are those perfumers?
    Last edited by narcus; 30th July 2006 at 08:20 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus
    Friends! Frederick Malle is a french Editor, where genius perfumers 'publish' their own creations. That is what makes Malle so unique! I can well imagine that Tom Ford would like to copy the Malle system. Serpent's comments fit in very well here. His success will depend on the perfumers willing to cooperate. So the main question is: who are those perfumers?
    Malle is just like the other niche/designer houses; the designer houses hire the industry noses to create fragrances for them. The only difference is that Malle allocates a bigger budget.
    -

  16. #16
    Serpent
    Guest

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp
    Malle is just like the other niche/designer houses; the designer houses hire the industry noses to create fragrances for them. The only difference is that Malle allocates a bigger budget.
    It's not that Malle gives them a bigger budget. It's that Malle gives them complete creative freedom. Designers present perfumers with bizarre briefs about what scents should represent, and they have to fulfill them. Malle's perfumers just have to create whatever pleases them.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    I look at the Estée Lauder counters here in town, and many still have stocks of Youth Dew Amber Nude, which many sales associates told me would be sold out "any day" back last Christmas. And it's almost August now. I suspect I could probably find someone to ghost up a bottle of Amber Nude for me if I wanted to give it as a gift next Christmas.
    Only the Amber Nude make up collection was a limited edition. Youth Dew Amber Nude edp was created as a permanent addition to the Estée Lauder line-up. It was recently launched in all markets. AN now comes in different sizes + bath & body line.

  18. #18
    Serpent
    Guest

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    Quote Originally Posted by cedriceccentric
    Only the Amber Nude make up collection was a limited edition. Youth Dew Amber Nude edp was created as a permanent addition to the Estée Lauder line-up. It was recently launched in all markets. AN now comes in different sizes + bath & body line.
    Ah. That makes more sense. I keep wondering, Why are these bottles still hanging around? But I have noticed the two sizes recently, too, wondering why one store (Robinson's-May, I think) got two sizes while Neiman Marcus didn't.

    Of course, last Christmas season, that's not how the sales associates were selling it. "You'd better buy this now! If you don't get this bottle, you'll never ever ever ever EVER be able to buy this again!" They were totally doing that limited edition schitck with the scent, too.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    It's not that Malle gives them a bigger budget. It's that Malle gives them complete creative freedom. Designers present perfumers with bizarre briefs about what scents should represent, and they have to fulfill them. Malle's perfumers just have to create whatever pleases them.
    This really is the difference with Malle's scents, and the main reason I consider myself a fan of the house. I like what it stands for. The creative freedom makes each one a unique and authentic work. It also makes many of them polarizing - IMO a hallmark of any decent work of art. Narcus is right - the success - at least with us diehards, and not necessarily commercial success - will come down to who the noses are, and how much freedom they are given. I hope Tom Ford has the good sense to allow them to follow their creative whims. I imagine this will largely depend upon the size of his ego - how much control he is willing to accede. That I know nothing about.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    Wow....This is Really Big.....Thanks for the info Cedric...
    Gary

  21. #21
    Serpent
    Guest

    Default Re: Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

    Quote Originally Posted by robyogi
    I hope Tom Ford has the good sense to allow them to follow their creative whims.
    Well...

    I sort of have to disagree with this concept. When fragrances are tied to fashion, the scents should, ideally, represent the aesthetic and ideology of the design house. And the perfumer should subjugate his or her own whims to the house's style.

    Certain fashion houses get this concept well. Chanel scents - up until about the Allure stage, at least - perfectly embodied the Chanel aesthetic. They were as if one bottled the Chanel look in an octagonal glass flacon one could wear. No house did it better. Christian Dior, with its superb femininity that may be vampish (Poison), coquettish (Diorissimo), or ripe and fertile (Dolce Vita) but always singularly womanly, comes close. And Yves Saint Laurent's scents - male and female - always have that crisp, tailored, sang-froid quality, that characteristically Gallic aloofness that echoes the clothes so well.

    But often, scents from design houses don't match up. Gucci remade itself with pure sex, but its scents have been mostly rather chilly and thin. (When it finally released a scent with leather notes, it did so with its least sexed-up campaign.) Fashion's most notably "adult" house, Versace, releases mostly sugary scents that have a childish smell to them. For such a glam, cleavage-and-phallic-symbols house as Roberto Cavalli, one would expect releases a little less wan and prim as his eponymous scents or Serpentine. And American design houses just seem to have no desire to match their clothing aesthetic at all, using fragrance simply as padding for the bottom line.

    A perfumer working for a design house will, ideally, create something that is both creative and original and that embodies the house's fashion aesthetic. The much-esteemed line of Comme des Garçons is one of the most original in all of perfumery, and it also wonderfully compliments the unique clothing of designer Rei Kawakubo. The nouveau apothecary scents like Messe de Minuit and Shaal Nur are a wonderful compliment to the whimsical fashions of Kean Etro.

    So these twelve Ford scents should reflect the fashions. But beyond that, yes, one would hope they would be unique and original. Further, one would hope they don't smell like twelve different pastiches of other past scents, which, as nice as any of the other fragrance work at Gucci and YSL may have been, is what his previous scents felt like.
    Last edited by Serpent; 30th July 2006 at 10:11 PM.

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