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  1. #1
    DustB's Avatar
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    Default House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Scents by Yves Saint Laurent are the subject of Basenotes’s second house referendum revival thread. The first of the house referendum revival was the French niche house L’Artisan Parfumeur, and readers interested in what a house referendum thread is can read how it’s done by clicking on the L’Artisan thread (http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=183823). The point here is to have a fully developed discussion of properties and theories of properties of the house and its products. General reviews are in order, specific reviews are in order, statements of discontent with the house are in order, laments that today isn’t as good as yesteryear are in order as is the reverse, and any dang simple way you, gentle reader, want to get involved and can contribute is in highest order. So think of one thing you can contribute right now, one thing you find you don’t think is quite right by your experience as you read the posts here, and think of one thing that will help someone else reading here after you. Make the site and this thread better for your visit. Contribute.


    Here’s a list of the house’s scents for men, according to the Basenotes directory, broken into decade groups:

    YSL pour Homme 1971

    Kouros 1981
    YSL pour Homme Haute Concentration 1983
    Kouros Eau de Sport 1986
    Jazz 1988

    Jazz Prestige 1993
    Kouros Fraîcheur 1993
    Opium pour Homme 1995
    Opium pour Homme Eau de Parfum 1995
    Live Jazz 1998

    Body Kouros 2000
    Kouros Eau d’Ete 2002
    M7 2002
    Kouros Cologne Sport
    Rive Gauche pour Homme 2003
    Rive Gauche pour Homme Intense 2003
    Kouros Sport Eau d’Ete 2004
    M7 Fresh 2004
    Rive Gauche pour Homme Light 2004
    L’Homme 2006


    For men and women to share:
    Eau Libre 1975

    --Chris
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  2. #2
    DustB's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Yves Saint Laurent men’s fragrances nicely represent a range of the standard marketing strategies: Scents created straight for men; scents labeled men’s versions of the house’s big selling women’s scents; eau de parfum strength versions of scents for men; multiple derivatives of successful scents (Eau d’Ete, eau de sport, fraicheur, prestige, fresh); and also, and best of all, just plain high quality and creative scents.

    YSL scent releases reflect the growth of the market. One men’s scent release was enough for all the 1970s. Four were enough for the decade of the eighties. Five more came out in the nineties, and nine came out in the first seven years of the 2000s. All told, ten YSL scents for men were released in the twenty-seven years from 1971 to 1998, and just as many--the next ten--were released in the seven years between 2000 and 2006. That shows the mushrooming of the men’s scent market as told through one of the highest volume, quality concerned, and resource rich world mass market designer firms.

    This doesn’t include the now-discontinued shared scent of 1975, Eau Libre, or either Nu Eau de Toilette or Nu Eau de Parfum of 2001 and 2002 respectively, which are often argued to be dark and woody enough for men to wear.

    Basenotes members know that Yves Saint Laurent’s scents for men are resoundingly popular and comment worthy on this forum. There are more winners in this designer’s house than losers (or argue?), and even which are losers is up to never ending thread generation (Kouros). Longstanding Basenotes members will recognize that the house makes some sleeper scents too, fragrances that get revulsion when they’re first released, but months or a year later are resounding winners (Rive Gauche pour Homme). Basenotes members know that the house uses the names of its popular fragrances to help market different scent creations (the best selling Kouros’s name is tacked onto an unrelated scent giving us Body Kouros).

    There’s a lot to comment on in the YSL house, and none of you readers really need any of my idea help to find something. All the same, I’d very much like it if anyone who’s worn the discontinued Eau Libre could write a review of it, and if men who wear and love Nu could write reviews of it and stories of their experiences living in it.

    Have at it. This thread will come to define the concepts of how a man should smell according to this house. What kind of job are its hired perfumers doing?

    --Chris
    Last edited by DustB; 11th September 2006 at 05:46 PM.
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  3. #3
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    note: my comments are based on the mens fragrances only

    For me, this is THE star designer house - each of their offerings is comment worthy. From the versatile Live Jazz, the controversial Kouros, the slick M7 to the grand YSL pour homme, almost all the male fragrances are unique and very wearable.

    Also, unlike other big houses like Chanel, Guerlain, and Caron YSL devotes equal effort and devotion to releasing both mens and womens fragrances....you wont have to wait a decade before the next mens fragrance release, unlike the aforementioned houses.
    Last edited by zztopp; 15th August 2006 at 01:26 AM.
    -

  4. #4

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    This is definitely one of my favorite houses. Every fragrance released so far is unique and has character to it. There are no boring scents from this house and that is what I love about it. Even the variations of scents are well worth mentioning. So with that I'll dive right into it.

    M7 - I was in Marshalls when I opened the package (we're not supposed to do that?) and sprayed it on me. I was undecided at first so I walked around a little bit. I smelt it later and decided, I must have this. I thought it smelt like a fireplace or something similar to a fireplace. I went back and got an unopened box (whoops) and proceeded to pay the $20. This scent is a comfort scent to me. If I have trouble sleeping, I spray some of this on my body and my pillow and I fall asleep. I can understand how some people cannot like this, but it will always have its place in my collection.

    M7 Fresh - The lighter brother of the bold and beautiful M7. This is just as good as the original and is expertly fine tuned to make it fresher. When I go to Europe there is no way I'm leaving without a bottle of this golden liquid.

    Body Kouros - This is a great scent and I love the smell of it. I cannot even describe this scent. All I can say is I get hit with incense and I love it. Reminds me of a stronger Bvlgari Black, but not quite so. They're different enough from eachother to justify owning both....and I do . This is a scent for a night out. This is how to draw positive attention to yourself. This will set you apart from everyother guy wearing Gucci Envy or A*Men in the clubs. This is a must have in every collection.

    Live Jazz - I do not own this scent but I have a sample. This is a great fresh scent and perhaps one of my favorites. I put it on and immediately get hit by the uplifting cirtus scent. This one last a decent amount of time on me as well. It is different from every other citrus scent I have tried on because of the cilantro. Some people say they don't like the cilantro note. I say bravo to YSL because it actually makes the scent more unique. I am planning to get a bottle of this for next spring/summer.

    Jazz - I also do not own a bottle of this but I have a sample. This is a great fromal scent in my opinion. I love the foral and leather combination. I can see how some people would see it as smelling dated, but I don't even care. If I'm 16 and can wear this with confidence, anyone here should be able to as well. I am also planning to buy a bottle of this.


    YSL fragrances I plan on getting soon:

    1. Opium PH - For this coming fall/winter
    2. Kouros Cologne Sport - For next spring/summer
    3. Rive Gauche PH - For this coming winter/fall
    4. YSL PH - For this coming spring/summer

    I also plan on testing out the legendary Kouros.

    So after reviewing my list I plan on owning almost every YSL fragrance there is for men. There's a reason for that too. It's because this house has so much to offer if you keep an open mind and an open nose. If you don't like them the first time, go back and try it again. You'll be greatly rewarded when you like the fragrances as I am positive they will grow on you.

  5. #5

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    I have one complaint about YSL. Why won't they produce M7 Fresh in the US. How frustrating.

    Another poster said it, they are the top of the line Designer fragrance line. Unique fragrances that could almost be considered niche, they do it, do it well and for a reasonable price.

  6. #6

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    I also agree about the availability of M7 Fresh in the US. It is a little ridiculous.

  7. #7
    Serpent
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Quote Originally Posted by Spiritussancti
    I also agree about the availability of M7 Fresh in the US. It is a little ridiculous.
    Okay, I'm going to have to do my Little Black Raincloud thing: There's a reason M7 Fresh is not available in America. A good reason. It was sold in the YSL boutiques in America its first season in production, and it must not have sold well. M7 itself sold so poorly it was, for a time, pulled even from the YSL boutiques in the United States (along with Rive Gauche pour Homme). It's just not a scent that sells well in America.

    Guys on this board like the M7 line. I myself like it; I own it, and I like it so much, I've given it to my dad, who loves it. But Americans as a large group of people - they don't seem to dig it. YSL had to make a financial decision to continue to import a scent over here and try to stock and sell it an indifferent market or just save their money and cut it out of the market. For the few dozen bottles their boutiques would sell each year - M7 Fresh is a seasonal offering, remember - it makes no sense, really, to carry it in a market largely unexposed to or disinclined to buy the parent fragrance. It's a financial decision for their well-being, nothing more or less.

    They made some huge, huge blunders in the launch of M7 - penis is not the way to sell cologne - and the scent itself is divisive. But, barring a wholesale relaunch of the scent, M7 is almost certainly destined to remain the obscurity it is in America, and M7 Fresh will not return from its one brief summer a few years ago.
    Last edited by Serpent; 15th August 2006 at 05:05 AM.

  8. #8
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent

    They made some huge, huge blunders in the launch of M7 - penis is not the way to sell cologne - and the scent itself is divisive.
    I dont get it ... why show penis when promoting a mens fragrance ? A woman on top would have resulted in brisk sales though
    -

  9. #9

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    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    YSL is probably the only line for me where everything is at least a must try, but not necessarily a must buy. I don't really see a common thread in YSL frags like I do in say Dior (inventive use of flowers), but I think they make pretty interesting frags, and a few of them are wearable.
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------
    YSL Pour Homme - Lemon frag in the Eau Sauvage/Acqua di Parma vein. Duration is very good for something so refreshing. Cleaner than the Haute Concentration. ****

    YSL Pour Homme Haute Concentrate - For me, the masterpiece of the YSL line. Takes verbena and makes it dirty. Phenomenal duration. While the original I think is in this day pretty unisex, the dirtiness of the thyme in the Haute Concentrate makes it masculine. *****

    Kouros - An acquired taste. I have not experienced any of the foul notes mentioned by others on the board with this. What I do like is that it is a challenging scent to figure out. Is it vanilla-like, is it spicy, is it clean? I get the "dryer sheet" phenomenon on my skin with this.I can't say I like it and I can't say I hate it. Neutral. ***

    Kouros Fraicheur - (aside: I cannot spell Fraicheur for the life of me and by god I'm not going to put a circumflex on something.) I think this is vastly superior to Kouros. For me, Kouros is the fresh scent, and KF is the harsh one. Once sprayed it comes off quite harshly. I guess this is due to the unusual fruit notes combined with the incense. It dries down to an amber and finally a vetiver note. As much as I love it, I have to caution myself from applying too much as one time someone dissed what I was wearing as cleaning product. Still.... *****

    Jazz - Now that Tsar's formula has been changed, Jazz is better than Tsar. I think I and everyone else on the board has compared these two thousands of times. I think Tsar could actually be compared more to Ungaro I and Yatagan with its pine note. (There seem to be more comparisons between XS & Himalaya lately).
    I really cannot describe the fragrance, but there is a rose core to it. Moderate duration, but very elegant. ****

    Opium for Men - The one from the YSL line that I just don't like. What puts me off I think is the ginger note. I detect the same note in Jako, and it doesn't work for me in Lagerfeld's unusual frag, and it doesn't work for me here. It is pretty thick and spicy, yeah. This is one where I want to like it so bad, but it just fails on me. Egoiste or Dupont's Signature does the trick for me more... Refused to buy, a rarity for me. **

    Live Jazz - Has finally received some ribbing on the board after being universally praised. Although I find it delightful, it was good to see some new thought on the matter, and I guess it made me deconstruct the frag much to my dismay at first. The coriander note is definitely the strongest part of the frag and if you don't like that spice, well, you're pretty much SOL re: Live Jazz. I sprayed this liberally on me one day and sat on the sofa. The next day when I came back, I still smelled the coriander. That made me realize, jeez there's a lot of one note, and maybe that is too much... but it is the scent as a whole that I have come to enjoy and I have stopped trying to deconstruct it. It might be an analytical downward spiral for pretty much every frag; everything has too much of something.

    Anyhow, it is very very refreshing during the summer. But I find it wears best on me during the cooler months, but tends to be a little on the casual side. The coriander makes the fragrance frosty, more so than the mint component. The leather is subtle and durable... it is more like a musk than something you would find in Cuiron or Dunhill '34. I think for those who like Issey (the original one), Live Jazz would be a next step.

    Amazing, but don't think about it. It's a joie de vivre frag after all. *****

    Kouros Cologne Sport - You know, I got this frag this summer when I had to blow a gift certificate, and I still don't know what to make of it. There are some citric elements in the top notes, and I wish they were a lot more pronounced. The frag just dies on my skin pretty quickly. It is nice and etherial for the few seconds it lasts. Sorry, but the duration is the killer for me with this. Maybe it will last longer in colder weather, like Live Jazz. **

    Body Kouros - My favorite frag for a year. It is consistenly a comforting fragrance for me. It manages to straddle the boundary between being a cool frag and a warm frag (I think leaning slightly on the cool side) as well as powdery vs. spicy (I think leaning on the spicy side). Very much in the vein of Joop and Le Male but quite wearable. Jacomo de Jacomo Rouge is also along the same lines. Downside is that it is unrepentingly linear and can get boring. Don't wear it as often as I used to, but that is a good thing, as it is still *****.

    Kouros Cologne Sport Eau d'Ete (2003) - When I got this I found it to be simply Kouros Light. Probably pretty wearable for those who find Kouros too strong. I don't have that problem. Traded it away. From what I understand you can wear this one in the sun without getting marks on your skin. ***

    Mr. 7 - Paying full retail for an overhyped frag on BN was a hard lesson. I totally understand that this is a "unique" fragrance and I can see the quality and all that, but, well, I just don't care for agarwood. I don't like it in Habit Rouge EDP and I don't like it here. It is an interesting note to see in a frag, but, well it is just not me. Unfortunately since I paid so much for it I'm loathe to trade it away. Still I wear it now & then. The base once you get past the infernal sweetness of the agarwood is a subtle amber a la Azzaro Pour Homme. I like to lounge around the house and wear M7, but that is really it. **

    Rive Gauche Pour Homme (plain old version) - Heretics unite! Heaven knows why this is perceived to be the holy grail by many. I think it may be due to others getting bitten while wearing this frag. Well none have bitten me, but I'm not exactly the charismatic type. I think it is a good fragrance, but to be honest, it is utterly derivative.

    Compare it to Brut and Azzaro. I can see how RG might be considered an improvement though. Brut is pretty floral on my skin. I could see how others don't care for that. RG dries down dirty while Brut dries down pretty cleanly. Azzaro is just plain old too subtle, even for me, and the top notes can be just nasty. RG's duration is pretty darn good, and the can is unique too. Nevertheless I don't find myself wearing RG, and I think that is a shame because it really is a solid perfomer.

    What drives me to Brut is that it is just a lot more fun to wear. First of all, there is the knowledge that there have to be several million BN'ers who are screaming in disgust that I am wearing Brut. This, of course, is enough to wear it in perpetuity.

    But seriously, there seems to be a straightforwardness and brusqueness of the florals in Brut which is a hell of a lot more fun and pleasurable to wear than the complexity of RG. I simply enjoy smelling Brut more than RG. Sorry to say, I'm going to hang out with Bubba at the bar with Byron at the coffee house. Nevertheless: ****.

    L'Homme - I'm reserving judgment on YSL L'Homme (or whatever it will be called). I am horribly prejudiced though. I'm not a fan of YSL's ginger note in Opium so I'm not hopeful.

    I still have yet to try M7 Fresh, Jazz Prestige or that shared one I never heard of before and will probably never see so may the schartz be with you if you find it.
    K
    In rotation: Greenbriar (new), Silver Mountain Water, Dunhill for Men (1934), Acqua di Parma Colonia, Habit Rouge EDC, Ho Hang, B*Men, Agua Brava

  10. #10

    Cool Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    I'll start with the 1st fragrance that I've choosen to my self & purchased from my own savings.

    it was JAZZ in 1988 & I was 12, the black & white chuncky bottle striked my eyes..loved the smooth plastic texture of the bottle as much as i loved my dad Kouros ultra smooth bottle, I tried it on my hands & I decided that it is for me to stand out of the crowd when the air was full of the harshness of Drakar Noir & Dior's Fahernhite.. - Rose & Carnation notes gives it a romantic touch- & I started to get my early compliments, which excited me to know more about perfumes & YSL..

    I am praying every summer to see a new limited edition of this hidden gem which needs to be re-discovered again, I get really dissapointed & fed up of seeing KOUROS every summer with same juice & different packaging.

    JAZZ PRESTIGE: two splashes of this & you'll get all the 'Prestige' of the world, I love this ultra mature, rich & luxirious juice.. the lavender notes in it are blended beautfuly... great for showing up in your tuxedo.. I love it ..love it .. love it.. I wish to see it back again.

    LIVE JAZZ: this fragrance was under Hedi Slimane when he started doing YSL Homme, it is my fav. fragrance for work place, the mint notes does refresh my brain & makes me feel clean & fresh by the end of the day..
    it is great for day & summer in a chic way without being too aqua-marine or citrusy.

    ''

    I have noted that the original JAZZ formula smells different in the new packaging.
    what I wish from YSL is to re-introduce JAZZ in its original packaging & formula which I found it more true to what YVES SAINT LAURENT is.

    JAZZ is a safe & chic fragrance for everyday use , my hopes from 'YSL Beaute' again is to give it more attention & refresh its image as they did with the king 'KOUROS'.
    Last edited by tariq; 15th August 2006 at 07:37 AM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    Okay, I'm going to have to do my Little Black Raincloud thing: There's a reason M7 Fresh is not available in America. A good reason. It was sold in the YSL boutiques in America its first season in production, and it must not have sold well. M7 itself sold so poorly it was, for a time, pulled even from the YSL boutiques in the United States (along with Rive Gauche pour Homme). It's just not a scent that sells well in America.

    Guys on this board like the M7 line. I myself like it; I own it, and I like it so much, I've given it to my dad, who loves it. But Americans as a large group of people - they don't seem to dig it. YSL had to make a financial decision to continue to import a scent over here and try to stock and sell it an indifferent market or just save their money and cut it out of the market. For the few dozen bottles their boutiques would sell each year - M7 Fresh is a seasonal offering, remember - it makes no sense, really, to carry it in a market largely unexposed to or disinclined to buy the parent fragrance. It's a financial decision for their well-being, nothing more or less.

    They made some huge, huge blunders in the launch of M7 - penis is not the way to sell cologne - and the scent itself is divisive. But, barring a wholesale relaunch of the scent, M7 is almost certainly destined to remain the obscurity it is in America, and M7 Fresh will not return from its one brief summer a few years ago.

    All so very true. I just wish an online retailer in the U.S. had it for sale or something. Ah well.

  12. #12
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Quote Originally Posted by Spiritussancti
    All so very true. I just wish an online retailer in the U.S. had it for sale or something. Ah well.
    Is it as good as people say it is? I recall a few weeks ago many basenoters were hunting for Davidoffs Relax, a scent supposedly one of the finest ever. I tried a decant, and was perplexed as to why that scent is so highly regarded here
    -

  13. #13
    Serpent
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp
    Is it as good as people say it is?
    My two scents: It didn't blow me away. It was another fresh scent - sort of grapefruit-like type, a little ozonic, that whole vibe - but with the muted agarwood M7 base at the finish. I thought it was all sort of ill-fitted myself. After all, M7 is sort of the antithesis of fresh, so M7 Fresh really is a paradox of a fragrance. I thought Rive Gauche pour Homme Fresh worked better (though still not well) than M7 Fresh. I don't know where the whole current craze on the board originates from, but I suspect its unavailability plays into a lot of it. M7 Fresh has almost reached Golden Calf status...

  14. #14

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp
    Is it as good as people say it is? I recall a few weeks ago many basenoters were hunting for Davidoffs Relax, a scent supposedly one of the finest ever. I tried a decant, and was perplexed as to why that scent is so highly regarded here

    I like the fact that it's a little different from every other fresh scent in that it has some of the original in it. I love M7 and M7 fresh has a toned down base of M7, so naturally I would like it. As Serpent said it could be the whole "wanting what you can't have". It's possible, but for me I know I just like the scent.

  15. #15

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    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    I only own Body Kouros (got it recently blindly). I have to say, I was a bit let down. It smells like something you'd rub on yourself when you have a muscle ache. Maybe my nose isn't conditioned enough for the notes in here, but I just don't think they work. The top note of eucalyptus at first smell very "hot", almost minty like that vicks stuff you put on your chest when you have a cold, but then it dries down and you still have this weird medicinal smell. I can detect the incense as some people have said, but it's fleeting and negligable. I read this fragrance is targeted more to younger men, but I still don't see myself wearing this. I don't feel comfortable wearing it, so maybe it's just my nose/body chemistry and not the scent itself.

    **
    I'm swapping this one away.

  16. #16

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    I've moved the off topic and objections posts to this thread here:

    Objections to the YSL referendum & off topic


    Please keep posts in this thread to the original brief.

    Thanks

  17. #17

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    My relationship with Parfums Yves Saint Laurent is a long one, it started when I was thirteen and got a Rive Gauche gift set (bath gel, body lotion and parfum) for Christmas. Anaïs Anaïs EdT (which I got at the same time) was my everyday scent, Rive Gauche was my "special occasion" scent. After I had used up my precious perfume years later, I bought an EdT but it just wasn't the same and I gave it away. Later the formula has been changed so I can never revisit one of my first fragrance loves again.

    Opium was my next YSL, I wore it from sixteen to eighteen, when I found Coco and never went back to Opium. Sorry, Opium!

    After Opium things were quiet for me on the YSL front. I've never liked Paris and didn't fall for Yvresse (then Champagne), either, until years after its launch when I got a mini. Enjoyed it very much as a cheerful and uplifting office scent, but never bought a full bottle...

    Live Jazz was love at first sniff and has stayed with me, I wore it exclusively for summer 1999 and still enjoy it on a hot weather.

    Nu EdP was sneaky, I wasn't really interested in it but got a sample and a little soap and when I tested it I was very impressed. Since it's one of Mr Tigs's biggest faves (he wears M7 which is a perfect match with Nu) I have gone through two bottles of EdP and one bottle of body lotion... Must add though that I can't stand the EdT version.

    Last but not least: Y. Y is YSL's oldest scent (launched in 1964), a timeless, elegant fruity Chypre, an unknown Classic. Not too "bigger-than-life" for the office, not too casual for the evening. Nicely "outdoorsy", very lovely.

    Summa summarum: though I love some YSL scents it is doesn't make it to My Favourite Houses list. My biggest loves are elsewhere...
    Last edited by tigrushka; 16th August 2006 at 06:56 PM.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  18. #18

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    YSL is an amazing house. I don't know much about the history of this house, as I am relatively new to its wonderful creations. They make unique scents I already own 2 and I'm going for more.

    Live Jazz - a powdery/fresh scent. It is a wonderful summer fragrace. It is a semi-romantic scent. It is ok for casual dating on warm summer nights. It brings me many compliments. It is one of the lesser known fresh scents so you will not have to compete with many people for originality.

    M7 - arguably the most unique scent created. It is a wonderful woody scent with the most distinct notes. I'm not sure what it is but it is lovely. Best for fall/winter climates. I would prefer it for fall because it is pretty dry. There are no warm notes in this one. It is just a great fall scent.

    M7 Fresh - a lovely spin on M7. It is the fresh version but it is not all that fresh. It is pretty sweet on my skin. The lasting power is not as great as the other two I mentioned but it is just as good. I would compare this one to Fruity Pebbles when I first put it on. It is really good for casual wear durring warm days. It wears close and smells great.

    I really like this house because of how original everything is. I am missing some really good scents but I can't give the best reviews for them. There are so many more to mention in this house. It is right near the top in my book.

  19. #19
    Serpent
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    There are women's scent involved here, too...

    Opium starts with hard, stiff, masculine notes of citrus and spice, then yields to soft, traditional powdery feminine notes. It's as if it says, "I'm as strong as a man, but I'll still yield to him." It is the most anti-feminist fragrance of all time. It's almost offensive. That's why men found it so damn sexy in the late 1970s. It has the illusion of power for women and the hidden promise of submission for men. It's a brilliant creation. The red laquer parfum bottle is designed after a traditional Japanese inro and is one of the greatest perfume bottles of all time.

    Yvresse was originally released as Champagne until a lawsuit in France prompted the scent to be pulled from counters. It never was rereleased en masse in much of the world, though many women still have fond memories of Champagne, not knowing that Yvresse (a play on the French "ivresse," or "drunkenness") is the same scent. This is reportedly Yves Saint Laurent's favorite fragrance of his whole line. Yvresse is the smell of careless abandon. It never, ever fails to make me smile when I smell it. The bottle is based on a champagne cork, complete with wiring and metal cap, another exemplar of YSL's beautiful attention to flacon design.

    Paris is what love smells like. Enough said.

  20. #20

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    If there's one thing that can be said about YSL in general, overall- it's that they are consistent and have yet to produce anything that is unanamously despised. They are, I would say the most popular "designer" (non-niche) brand going. Not many other designer houses have produced as many widely regarded "classics" (even those from the past 7 years). The sheer number of Kouros, M7 or RG threads on this board are proof. When I think of the other highly regarded designer houses, Dior, Armani etc.. It's easy to say they have lots of classics, but they also have lots of "so-so" frags. (aramani city glam, dior higher) Basically the filler those other houses put out, just so they always have something "new and now" at the counter is what i'm talking about. You don't really see that with YSL. People even regard the spin offs- like M7 fresh or body kouros as gems. I'm not saying they're perfect, I own Opium and RG and a decant of M7 so i can't speak for all of their products, but from what i read on this board on a daily basis, I would say they are one of our most loved- if not the most loved, of the non niche, widely available designer fragrance houses.
    "...fragrance is a silent language that does not use words. One can express with fragrance things that cannot be expressed in any other way." - Jacques Polge

  21. #21

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    ......M7 Fresh. I don't know where the whole current craze on the board originates from, but I suspect its unavailability plays into a lot of it. M7 Fresh has almost reached Golden Calf status...
    LoL! I think that's very true. Here in UK it is easily available and I got some just the other day. My verdict: well, it's a reasonably nice fragrance, but not in the premier league. It's got a nice drydown.
    My Current Top 5: Terre d'Hermès | Terre de Bois by Miller Harris | Isfarkand by Ormonde Jayne | Brit for Men by Burberry | Grapefruit by Jo Malone

    Wardrobe / Reviews

  22. #22
    Serpent
    Guest

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Quote Originally Posted by dr_adamg
    They are, I would say the most popular "designer" (non-niche) brand going.
    I think two brands could easily challenge that: Chanel and Guerlain. (Outside chance, Comme des Garçons, also a designer.)

  23. #23

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Unfortunately, Sephora in San Francisco doesn't have a SINGLE YSL scent on their shelves...which is too bad, as I think they are very high quality, distinctive frags.

  24. #24

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Originally Posted by dr_adamg
    They are, I would say the most popular "designer" (non-niche) brand going.


    Quote Originally Posted by Serpent
    I think two brands could easily challenge that: Chanel and Guerlain. (Outside chance, Comme des Garçons, also a designer.)
    Where "designer" frags is concerned, then Hermès rules!

    But respect to all you who love YSL. Each to his own!
    My Current Top 5: Terre d'Hermès | Terre de Bois by Miller Harris | Isfarkand by Ormonde Jayne | Brit for Men by Burberry | Grapefruit by Jo Malone

    Wardrobe / Reviews

  25. #25
    Serpent
    Guest

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Quote Originally Posted by GenuineImitationLife
    Where "designer" frags is concerned, then Hermès rules!
    I have more Hermès than any other house. I love, love, love Hermès. I can't see how they slipped under my radar. But, viewed in totality - men's and women's - I still think Chanel and Guerlain have stronger lineups. (Chanel has fewer scents, true, but look at those scents. Damn.) Hermès' women's selection isn't quite as strong as the men's, in my opinion, though Eau des Merveilles did much to bolster their portfolio. And if they would release an eau de parfum of Doblis into the full line...

    But where were we? YSL?

  26. #26

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Quote Originally Posted by conehead
    Unfortunately, Sephora in San Francisco doesn't have a SINGLE YSL scent on their shelves...which is too bad, as I think they are very high quality, distinctive frags.
    Wow, the Sephora near me in White Plains, NY has Kouros, Kouros Cologne Sport, Body Kouros, and Rive Gauche. Interesting that different stores in the same chain would have such different selections.

    But this brings up another issue with YSL--their distribution seems really poor. The Macys and Bloomingdales near me only carry Kouros and the Nordstroms does not carry any of the YSL men's line. I've never seen M7 in a store (except for its brief appearance at Marshalls/TJ Maxx), and the unavailability of M7 Fresh in the US has been decried here regularly.

    On one level, I enjoy the fact that people in my area can not buy M7 or Rive Gauche on any street corner, but in terms of the health of a fragrance brand I love it is worrisome.

    --Steve
    Just because it happened to you doesn't make it interesting.

    In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

    My sales thread: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/304...85#post2614885

    Wanted: YSL Nu EdP

  27. #27

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Quote Originally Posted by SmellsLike
    .......
    I've never seen M7 in a store (except for its brief appearance at Marshalls/TJ Maxx), and the unavailability of M7 Fresh in the US has been decried here regularly.

    .......

    --Steve
    This sounds so weird to anyone here in England. M7 and M7 Fresh are very easily available. I got my M7 Fresh locally, not even in London itself but here in Croydon! £32 for 50ml.

    Why do they deny it to you guys over the pond? It does seem a bit unfair and someone somewhere at YSL has made a bad business decision if the comments on this board are anything to go by!
    My Current Top 5: Terre d'Hermès | Terre de Bois by Miller Harris | Isfarkand by Ormonde Jayne | Brit for Men by Burberry | Grapefruit by Jo Malone

    Wardrobe / Reviews

  28. #28
    DustB's Avatar
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    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    YSL reviews.

    My YSL history starts with Kouros. Starts with seeing the ads for it in GQ magazine timed to the half-year after Kouros was released. I had to sneak peeks at GQ magazine at friends’ houses, and make them short peeks because I didn’t want anyone to think I was as fascinated by them (and thus vain! Horrors!) as I was. Kouros was there, and I was in tenth-grade in high school in a northern Midwestern American city. An aloof guy who I wanted to be my friend wore it. He was a year ahead of me in school and had that damn preppy trend first time through thing down pat. I was stuck back in Polo and Z-14. He could talk about how “it’s Kouros” when I’d get to join the cool gang’s lunch table and say it with a straight face just like someone who has crossed the class and money divide and can say of course I have a Mercedes-Benz.

    I sneaked sniffs from a bottle itself as I tried to casually pass by the fragrance counter of one of the downtown department stores. Big, bold, airy, powerful—grand—and so much perfect blue sky type adventure in that white square shouldered bottle. But 15 US dollars for a large bottle? You’ve got to be kidding me—that’s outrageous! My allowance is only five dollars! I got Polo by trading my friend a sweater he wanted. Z-14 came gratis à la Mama, but Kouros? Bummer.

    Even after my Basenotes phase set in four or five years ago I didn’t pick up Kouros though. Sometimes there are scents that are so perfect and wonderful for me that they answer everything my nose would want to smell. They’re ones I know I’ll buy but I don’t, because they’re so perfect buying them would be normal and wearing them would fit into the expected routine. So I put off buying these scents and sniff all the others out there that are lesser scents because at least they give a bumpy ride. I know I’ll get the great scent for sure, but it’s dull to commit to it. Walking home with it in a shopping bag won’t feel as eventful as a scent in there that is less than perfect, that will be a novel and challenging thing to wear tomorrow.

    L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Mure et Musc is another of these perfect scents, same as Diptyque’s Philosykos. But they come long after Kouros for me. Kouros is the dog that marked all the neighborhood fire hydrants for me and set this pattern to life. I finally got it a few years ago in a large online purchase with a half dozen other bottles that were all blind buys. I think it was the most expensive of them at US$35 for 100mls from an online discount retailer.

    Kouros leaves an imprint in your mind. Twenty years after its release my brain knew what it smelled like without help from any next bottle. Ahhh, the smell of aspirant youth! Today it never fails to take me back. I’ve only worn it once or twice a year (I have a large scent collection) but I know the feeling it gives me. It’s effervescent in the sunlight and sweat, it’s magnificent in the aura around you more than on the spot where you sprayed it. It’s tenacious. Always giving sunlight and some sweetness seeping out of the wrist and neck spots of my jacket walking over the crisp white snows.

    I sprayed a shot on my wrist to think about it for this write up. It dominates my smell. Overwhelms whatever it was I listed in the SOTD thread today, and dominates the spray of Jazz on my other wrist. It is grand and big like wishes.
    --Chris
    Last edited by DustB; 16th August 2006 at 10:59 PM.
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  29. #29

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Quote Originally Posted by DustB
    YSL reviews.

    My YSL history starts with Kouros. Starts with seeing the ads for it in GQ magazine timed to the half-year after Kouros was release. I had to sneak peeks at GQ magazine at friends’ houses, and make them short peeks because I didn’t want anyone to think I was as fascinated by them (and thus vain! Horrors!) as I was. Kouros was there, and I was in tenth-grade in high school in a northern Midwestern city. An aloof guy who I wanted to be my friend wore it. He was a year ahead of me in school and had that damn preppy trend first time through thing down pat. I was stuck back in Polo and Z-14. He could talk about how “it’s Kouros” when I’d get to join the cool gang’s lunch table and say it with a straight face just like someone who has crossed the class and money divide and can say of course I have a Mercedes-Benz.

    I sneaked sniffs from a bottle itself as I tried to casually pass by the fragrance counter of one of the downtown department stores. Big, bold, airy, powerful—grand—and so much perfect blue sky type adventure in that white square shouldered bottle. But 15 US dollars for a large bottle? You’ve got to be kidding me—that’s outrageous! My allowance is only five dollars! I got Polo by trading my friend a sweater he wanted. Z-14 came gratis à la Mama, but Kouros? Bummer.

    Even after my Basenotes phase set in four or five years ago I didn’t pick up Kouros though. Sometimes there are scents that are so perfect and wonderful for me that they answer everything my nose would want to smell. They’re ones I know I’ll buy but I don’t, because they’re so perfect buying them would be normal and wearing them would fit into the expected routine. So I put off buying these scents and sniff all the others out there that are lesser scents because at least they give a bumpy ride. I know I’ll get the great scent for sure, but it’s dull to commit to it. Walking home with it in a shopping bag won’t feel as eventful as a scent in there that is less than perfect, that will be a novel and challenging thing to wear tomorrow.

    L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Mure et Musc is another of these perfect scents, same as Diptyque’s Philosykos. But they come long after Kouros for me. Kouros is the dog that marked all the neighborhood fire hydrants for me and set this pattern to life. I finally got it a few years ago in a large online purchase with a half dozen other bottles that were all blind buys. I think it was the most expensive of them at US$35 for 100mls from an online discount retailer.

    Kouros leaves an imprint in your mind. Twenty years after its release my brain knew what it smelled like without help from any next bottle. Ahhh, the smell of aspirant youth! Today it never fails to take me back. I’ve only worn it once or twice a year (I have a large scent collection) but I know the feeling it gives me. It’s effervescent in the sunlight and sweat, it’s magnificent in the aura around you more than on the spot where you sprayed it. It’s tenacious. Always giving sunlight and some sweetness seeping out of the wrist and neck spots of my jacket walking over the crisp white snows.

    I sprayed a shot on my wrist to think about it for this write up. It dominates my smell. Overwhelms whatever it was I listed in the SOTD thread today, and dominates the spray of Jazz on my other wrist. It is grand and big like wishes.
    --Chris

    Ok now I DEFINITELY have to try Kouros. You should write for a magazine or something Chris.

  30. #30
    Serpent
    Guest

    Default Re: House Referendum -- Yves Saint Laurent

    Quote Originally Posted by GenuineImitationLife
    Why do they deny it to you guys over the pond? It does seem a bit unfair and someone somewhere at YSL has made a bad business decision if the comments on this board are anything to go by!
    YSL tried to sell it here. It was launched at Saks, Bloomingdales, Sephora, even some Macy's outlets. The majority of Americans wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole. It was punted right out of the U.S. of A. Sorry fellas, but Basenotes posters' tastes are not representative of the masses at large. Haven't you guys figured that out yet?

    I think I mentioned my recent M7 experience in another thread, but I'll recount it here: The last time I wore it to work a few weeks ago, two people, about forty-five minutes apart from each other, walked past my desk and asked, "Are they painting today?" It's just too weird, too much for most people to handle. Americans in general prize cleanliness. They want clean things. They want themselves, their bodies, to be perceived as clean. That's why American scents and scents formulated to sell primarily to the American market - like the new L'Homme - are made to be "clean." The French perfume aesthetic is entirely different; they like that little bit of animal dirtiness. They find it sexy and sophisticated. Not Americans, by and large. It's not a right thing or a wrong thing. It's just... an American thing.

    A muddied, sharp, dark brute of a scent, M7 is not a clean cologne. And that's why it was doomed to failure in the American market.

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