Wading through recently received perfumes here. These are just first impressions and I know a good perfume deserves lots of time.

Asprey, Purple Water. Classic cologne tradition, light fresh citrus opening, then it actually smells purple. The Jacaranda? Would put off many as too feminine and perhaps old-fashioned, but I love it.

CSP L'Eau de Governeur: fantastic stuff, loved the sample, love the perfume, in my top 5 right now. Everything I like in a perfect combination: wood, spices, green. I praised this elsewhere already.

Helmut Lang Cuiron: Like it. The plum works really well against the leather. Very masculine. Ich bin ein Ledergott! Now I feel like looking at Helmut Newton nudes

Caron, Parfum Sacré: The bug has got me, I'm buying stuff I won't wear. The reviews were so enticing I couldn't resist it for 10 Euros. And it is a wonderful old-fashioned rose, powder, and lots-more-to-discover fragrance indeed.

d by Dunhill. It's well made but conventional, nearly boring. Dunhill's attempt to join the young&fresh bandwagon in the late 90s?

Etro Mahogany. How much wood could a woodchuck chuck...This is so dry and lumbery without any proper spice or anything to support. Scratchy and I don't much like the drydown either. Willing to invest some time on this, though, since I normally love dry wood. Meanwhile, hand me my Bois du Portugal, please.

Bois de Filao: Not bad, but kind of empty. Violets, a bit of wood, but it fades so fast. Much weaker, in every respect, than Gouverneur.

Tsar: Plain boring. Exactly the kind of scent that used to make me think "why do some people make such a fuss about fragrance?" It's not outright bad though, so I'll give it a chance to grow on me.

Not good:

Montana Green. Shower gel scent. I hate this kind of stuff. Utterly superfluous. This is going back where it came from: ebay.

I'm looking forward to Crabtree & Evelyn's Sienna and Bogart's Silver Scent now, which I suspect will both be to my liking. Read about it next week.