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  1. #1

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    November 2006:

    An open letter to Mr Harf



    By Luca Turin

    "A strange thing happened recently, which you may find interesting: Lancôme released La Collection, a set of five classic fragrances restored to full glory..... "



    http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/d80bd71b-...bbe45eda2.aspx
    Last edited by narcus; 6th December 2006 at 01:26 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Thanks Narcus! Great posting. However, I doubt if Mr. Harf will be persueded by the sentence: "Coty fragrances have been crap for twenty years".
    Enough arrogance in it to chase him into the curtains, so to speak
    Never heard of honey, dear Luca?
    The bird of paradise alights only upon the hand that does not grasp
    Currently wearing: VIP Room by VIP Room

  3. #3

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Great post narcus. Let's hope Turin is listened to.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Nice post from you Narcus!
    Besides Coty, I'm not sure if at Lancôme they're happy to have been defined as "a second-rank name in fragrance"...
    However, what is true, is that Lancôme re-launch is very nice: so good to see back on stage juices like sagamore!

  5. #5

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by Eluard
    Great post narcus. Let's hope Turin is listened to.
    Well, they might. Remember the Guerlain letter campaign he initiated (boy, he should have invited us to it !) ? Guerlain were mad with him, but evidently they took the message to heart. Industry people can't afford to bear a grudge for long. And they see that LT not just laments, but shows them the way out of a crisis (their own!). I bet Turin could just go and do it for them. He does use clear language. It's the priviledge of a fearless man, and the virtue of a maitre.
    (btw - has anybody started reading his book yet?)
    Last edited by narcus; 7th November 2006 at 12:09 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus
    (btw - has anybody started reading his book yet?)
    Yes for months already!! I was bad in chemistry at school so reading this in English (not my first language as you might have noticed ), is rather, eh...difficult. But I bet you guys will love it. The pieces that are a bit easier to understand for me are great to read. That man has a wit like a razorblade.
    The bird of paradise alights only upon the hand that does not grasp
    Currently wearing: VIP Room by VIP Room

  7. #7

    Default Re: Luca Turin -- Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Exactly which five fragrances did Lancôme re-release? Were Sagamore and/or Balafre among them?

    Peggy: "Right now, we have to get to the mental institution. Something terrible has happened."
    Latrelle: "What?"
    Peggy: "Brother Boy has tried to kill himself. He jumped out of his bedroom window."
    Latrelle: "Isn't he only on the second floor?"
    Peggy: "Yes, but he hit his head on a lawn gnome."
    Fr. Sordid Lives: The Series
    *****
    "Live, live, live! Life is a banquet, and most poor suckers are starving to death."
    Auntie Mame
    [/B]

  8. #8

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by Riannon
    Yes for months already!! I was bad in chemistry at school so reading this in English (not my first language as you might have noticed ), is rather, eh...difficult. But I bet you guys will love it. The pieces that are a bit easier to understand for me are great to read. That man has a wit like a razorblade.
    Actually I thought English was your first language. You and narcus write more polished prose than many a native English speaker. There are many that you put to shame, in fact.

    My copy of the book is on the way, so I'm looking forward to it.

    On the Lancome's: I looked for them a few months ago and couldn't find them, so it's unclear if they have a wide availability outside Europe.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Luca Turin -- Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by tvlampboy
    Exactly which five fragrances did Lancôme re-release? Were Sagamore and/or Balafre among them?
    From Nowsmellthis:
    "In 2005, Lancôme began to reissue some of their classic fragrances under the line La Collection Lancôme. The initial set included Magie, Climat (1967), Sagamore (1985) and Sikkim (1971). In 2006, they added Mille et Une Rose, a reissue of 1999's 2000 et une Rose".

    Added info: look at:http://www.lancome-usa.com/_us/_en/f...collection.htm

    The Collection now sold is without Sagamore! Only:Climat, Magie, Mille & Une Roses, and Sikkim. And they only ship to US addresses.
    Last edited by Riannon; 8th November 2006 at 06:02 AM.
    The bird of paradise alights only upon the hand that does not grasp
    Currently wearing: VIP Room by VIP Room

  10. #10

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    December 2006
    His column on perfumes and the industry
    FOLIO, a monthly supplement to NZZ Zurich

    L’Artisan Parfumeur 30 years later

    Last edited by narcus; 4th December 2006 at 08:55 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Thanks for the update, narcus. I await all of his monthly installments with bated ... eyes(?).

    So, he likes Dzing!, Timbuktu and Premier Figuier (so much, he named it twice).
    De gustibus non est disputandum

  12. #12

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by ifconfig
    ... Premier Figuier (so much, he named it twice).
    I thought it was strange at first that he named it twice...but after reading his book, it sort of makes sense. His book, by the way, was definitely interesting, but unfortunately repetitive of Chandler Burr's book...so only read one of them.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Luca Turin manages to hit the nail on the head most of the time and he has the clout and audacity to initiate some of the changes that he would like to see. I thought that his letter to Mr. Harf was remarkably restrained: Coty HAS been producing "crap" - to use a polite term - for the last two decades. I remember the beauty and luxury of the best of Coty's scents: my grandmother wore the regal and opulent l'Origan while an aunt wore the sexy and daring Emeraude. My mother loved the soft and romantic L'Aimant. I was fortunate enough to have been able to sample Chypre, La Rose Jacquminot and Jasmin de Corse in the late fifties when these fragrances still retained some of their former glory. Francois Coty would be rolling in his grave if he could see what has become of his company; after all, Coty was on par with Guerlain and I remember reading that Jacques Guerlain's wife's favourite scent was Chypre. How wonderful it would be to have re-creations of all these perfumes!

  14. #14

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Does anyone have the link to the archive of his old blog? It was interesting reading and I keep wanting to refer to it or read parts of it again. I certainly don't agree with him all the time, but his writing never fails to make me think about fragrance in new ways.
    -Slim

  15. #15

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    You'll be directed to the LT typepad archive here:

    http://lucaturin.typepad.com/

    (Google recommended, in this particular case the BN search machine would have helped also).

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh
    His book, by the way, was definitely interesting, but unfortunately repetitive of Chandler Burr's book...so only read one of them.
    Welcome sofresh! I do not know which of his books you are referring to. If it's 'The Secret of Scent' I wonder if you skipped over 150 pages all too quickly. No pun intended.

    narcus
    Last edited by narcus; 5th December 2006 at 02:37 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    I just read the first 15 pages at a bookstore. I liked it, a lot. His prose is daringly funny and educational, both. I wonder what it would have been liked taking a class from him?
    De gustibus non est disputandum

  17. #17

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus
    Welcome sofresh! I do not know which of his books you are referring to. If it's 'The Secret of Scent' I wonder if you skipped over 150 pages all too quickly. No pun intended.

    narcus
    Has he written any other books?

  18. #18

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by opalsdad
    Luca Turin manages to hit the nail on the head most of the time and he has the clout and audacity to initiate some of the changes that he would like to see. I thought that his letter to Mr. Harf was remarkably restrained: Coty HAS been producing "crap" - to use a polite term - for the last two decades. I remember the beauty and luxury of the best of Coty's scents: my grandmother wore the regal and opulent l'Origan while an aunt wore the sexy and daring Emeraude. My mother loved the soft and romantic L'Aimant. I was fortunate enough to have been able to sample Chypre, La Rose Jacquminot and Jasmin de Corse in the late fifties when these fragrances still retained some of their former glory. Francois Coty would be rolling in his grave if he could see what has become of his company; after all, Coty was on par with Guerlain and I remember reading that Jacques Guerlain's wife's favourite scent was Chypre. How wonderful it would be to have re-creations of all these perfumes!

    It's information and opinion such as this that makes Basenotes a wonderful resource for our little hobby. Thank you, sir.

  19. #19

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh
    Has he written any other books?
    A perfume guide in the nineties. The cover of his new book refers to that, and LT also mentions it somewhere inside. It had been published in France. Early this year, some lady offered her own English translation of it in the BN forum. But there was a problem with it. She failed to obtain authorizations, or something.
    Quote Originally Posted by ifconfig
    ...I wonder what it would have been liked taking a class from him?
    I am inspired by your enthusiasm, as always! Download his flexitral.typepad.pdf if you can, it's like a perfume guide re-written, plus classes on it.
    Last edited by narcus; 5th December 2006 at 09:32 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Oh, using a word like 'crap' disrupts the texture of the discourse in a way that might not add anything other than a measure of disrespect, especially in the context of an open letter. I would have rather read "sh*t" than "crap", or else something polite.
    Last edited by supermarky; 6th December 2006 at 11:19 AM.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus
    I am inspired by your enthusiasm, as always! Download his flexitral.typepad.pdf if you can, it's like a perfume guide re-written, plus classes on it.
    One of the first things I downloaded after reading The Emperor of Scent!
    De gustibus non est disputandum

  22. #22

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Folio January 8, 2007
    'The Perfume' (German)
    Turin talking about the various perfumes from Laudamiel & Hornetz inspired by the film (big praise!). But the paper entered the wrong link to the English translation:

    http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/d80bd71b-...43d87e33f.aspx

    I think, an error occurred. That article had been released before! Here should be: 'The Perfume', English text version instead.


    Schmerz – NZZ Folio 01/07
    L’Artisan Parfumeur 30 years later
    By Luca Turin

    http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/d80bd71b-...62390bab1.aspx


    Last edited by narcus; 7th May 2007 at 07:40 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  23. #23

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    Default Re: Luca Turin -- Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by Riannon
    From Nowsmellthis:
    "In 2005, Lancôme began to reissue some of their classic fragrances under the line La Collection Lancôme. The initial set included Magie, Climat (1967), Sagamore (1985) and Sikkim (1971). In 2006, they added Mille et Une Rose, a reissue of 1999's 2000 et une Rose".

    Added info: look at:http://www.lancome-usa.com/_us/_en/f...collection.htm

    The Collection now sold is without Sagamore! Only:Climat, Magie, Mille & Une Roses, and Sikkim. And they only ship to US addresses.
    If you start from www.lancome.com, you can choose your country. The UK shop online did not have the 'La Collection' set, but the French one does:
    http://www.lancome.fr/_fr/_fr/catalog/product1.aspx?prdcode=08895c&CategoryCode=AXEFragr ance^F1_lacollection^F2_coffret&vname=name&

    I can only read French and English, so I didn't check the other sites.

  24. #24

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue


    The Perfume's Perfumes


    Luca Turin's January essay. Link now corrected:

    "I’ll start with an admission: I couldn’t finish Patrick Suskind’s book, and won’t see the movie until they show it on airplanes and I’m stuck in 44F. The sex-drugs-and-minuet thing bores me....."
    more: http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/d80bd71b-...62390bab1.aspx
    Last edited by narcus; 7th May 2007 at 07:49 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Thanks, Narcus! I liked this issue a lot. Say what you will about the good doctor, he can write!
    De gustibus non est disputandum

  26. #26

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    New in March:

    Luca Turin gets a whiff of Calvin Klein 1


    http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/21b625ad-...17817ed25.aspx
    Last edited by narcus; 7th May 2007 at 07:42 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Dottore Turin shines again. Great prose, love the metaphor (a chemical time machine which freezes time--for the wearer--eternally at 8am).
    De gustibus non est disputandum

  28. #28
    Basenotes Plus

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    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus
    New in March:

    Luca Turin gets a whiff of Calvin Klein 1


    http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/21b625ad-...17817ed25.aspx
    thank you Narcus. Much appreciated!
    Currently wearing: Opus IV by Amouage

  29. #29

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    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    Due Credit : the 'cleaned ' Mitsouko is not so bad after all!

    Luca Turin in Folio - April 2007

    http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/21b625ad-...672b2bac9.aspx
    Last edited by narcus; 7th May 2007 at 07:43 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  30. #30

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    Default Re: Luca Turin - Folio Zurich, Current Issue

    If you thought there is only one Chanel No 5....

    Luca Turin in Folio - May 2007
    Reviewer Heaven


    http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/21b625ad-...54cff6a1e.aspx
    Last edited by narcus; 7th May 2007 at 07:31 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

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