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  1. #1

    Default Quick Notes on a few Testers

    This was my second go round with ordering from Luckyscents, and this time, I picked up the last two Profumum things I wanted (Santalum and Antico Caruso), but also some L'Artisan things - Passage d'Enfer, Voleur de Roses, Dzing! and Dzongkha and Mechant Loup. I'll have some quick notes up about them (probably one or two a day), with more detailed things in the directory.

    Profumum Santalum: Dark, spicy, rich, and long lasting, Santalum is, to me, what a Sandalwood scent should be - unlike most of the Profumum lineup, there's good sillage and longevity here (I could smell this on my wrist at arm's length, and could smell it after 4-6 hours). And there's none of that big vanilla/powdery basenote as it dries down. On top of things, there's a warm spicyness that I could see as clove or cinnamon, but there's almost a medicinal edge to the sandalwood that comes out in the midnotes, which refines itself toward being almost a single-note sandalwood after about an hour.

    L'Artisan Voleur de Roses: Much has been written about this fragrance, and while I don't normally go in for scents with lots of patchouli, this pulls it off. As advertised, there's a lovely, natural rose note on top of a clean musk and some initial cola (I can usually red flag patchouli scents by this rooty/cola note). It's perfectly judged and put together - so much so that there's tension as the topnotes go away that almost creates a citrus accord underneath the rose-cola/patchouli notes. Very nice longevity and sillage - again, I could smell this at arm's length and it lasted for 4-6 hours. Very very nice.

    L'Artisan Mechant Loup: And this morning, Mechant Loup - Again, beautifully put together and natural smelling. I get a huge honeyed tone at first, and after a minute, blond tobacco and spices. As it dries, some gourmand notes come out so that this smells like almond or hazelnuts and finally shaving soap. This is a bit closer to the skin than Voleur, but I've had it on for 4 hours now, and it's still there. I love the play in this between the sweetness of the honey and the spicy tobacco notes.

    So.... Santalum is what I expected it to be, and is my favorite so far of the Profumum lineup. I had high hopes for the L'Artisan stuff, and they've both delivered. I'm very tempted to get Mechant Loup now, but I'll try it for a bit and see.

    Thanks,

    Zachary

  2. #2

    Default Re: Quick Notes on a few Testers

    Fantastic post Zachary. You've got some nose on you; I definatly know where you are coming from with that "cola" note. Keep it up!

  3. #3

    Default Thanks

    Joel,

    My background is wine, so I'm pretty good with taking notes on things and being attentive to teasing out aromas. My issue is transferring my mental dictionary of aromas in wine to the world of scent - I really admire people who can talk about benzoin and orris root with authority I've got a few more L'Artisan things to go, so it's exciting!

    Thanks,

    Zachary

  4. #4

    Default Re: Quick Notes on a few Testers

    A discerning palate for wine puts you at a distinct advantage for precision-training your nose. I'm very interested to read your observations on Dzing, because while its individual constituent notes are not too out-of-the-ordinary, they sum up to the most outlandish accords I can think of. If you want some ideas of how Basenoters have grappled to put Dzing's impression into words, you need look no further than the carnivalesque scent images catalogued in the Directory.
    Last edited by Joel_Cairo; 14th November 2006 at 06:12 PM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Quick Notes on a few Testers

    Welcome and thanks for the very interesting post. Do you know other sandalwood frags you could set this in relation to? I'm looking for my next big Sandalwood, none among Floris, Etro, MPG , Diptyque, Art of Shaving, Creed (Impériale) having surpassed the divine Villoresi. Hurwitz' Sandalo Inspiritu is my No. 2.
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  6. #6

    Default And that's the other thing...

    I really don't have the encyclopedic knowledge that's regularly displayed here in comparing one fragrance to another. I'm new to this, and I need more practice. About the only thing I can say is that this is the dark, lusty, foresty side of sandalwood (if you know wine, I can say that if sandalwood is Pinot Noir, Santalum is Nuits-St-Georges).

    Sorry I can't be of more help,

    Zachary

  7. #7

    Default Re: Quick Notes on a few Testers

    Quote Originally Posted by Joel_Cairo
    Fantastic post Zachary. You've got some nose on you; I definatly know where you are coming from with that "cola" note. Keep it up!
    This is interesting to me as I have always thought Egoiste had a cola note. I wonder if it is the rose combined with something else. Hmmmm...

  8. #8

    Default Re: Quick Notes on a few Testers

    Quote Originally Posted by Zachary
    . . .

    Profumum Santalum: . . . but there's almost a medicinal edge to the sandalwood that comes out in the midnotes . . .
    Zachary,

    Welcome to Basenotes. The medicinal edge you're picking up on here is from the myrrh.

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life
    . . .Do you know other sandalwood frags you could set this in relation to?. . .
    Perhaps I can help: Czech & Speake Frankincense & Myrrh has a sandalwood element to it that tends to be thinner than Santaluum's throughout the drydown; Frankincense & Myrrh is also a lot more aromatically complex with a fougère (lavender) element, and uniquely it has a true frankincense note you don't come across even in fragrances that list frankincense as a note. Not for everyone, but then again, that's typical of Czech & Speake fragrances. Santalum is a fine scent, though, to be sure. Thanks for the reviews Zachary.

    scentemental

    Last edited by scentemental; 14th November 2006 at 08:38 PM.

  9. #9

    Question Re: Quick Notes on a few Testers

    Zachary:

    What's your take on Antico Caruso?

    Joe

  10. #10

    Default Re: Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Zachary
    Joel,

    My background is wine, so I'm pretty good with taking notes on things and being attentive to teasing out aromas. My issue is transferring my mental dictionary of aromas in wine to the world of scent - I really admire people who can talk about benzoin and orris root with authority I've got a few more L'Artisan things to go, so it's exciting!

    Thanks,

    Zachary
    Zachary - Hello!

    I started exercising my nose through wine (and to a lesser extent gardening) and that's what led me here. I agree that it's quite a humbling experience to read the quality of some of the posts here. It also very exciting to start to learn a new vocabulary of scent. I agree with other posters that a background in appreciating the fragrance of things other than fragrance can be very helpful.

    I've talked about possibe overlaps before
    http://community.basenotes.net/showt...highlight=wine

    and the consensus seems to be that - if you can appreciate good things ...
    .
    .
    "The grand essentials of happiness are: something to do, something to love, and something to hope for", Allan Chalmers.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Quick Notes on a few Testers

    Agree with the others, Zachary, what a great post!

    I look forward to hearing your take on Passage D'enfer and Dzongkha. I really like both of these but, especially with Passage D'enfer, have never been able adequately to express what I'm getting from each whiff, even after reading what notes are in it. Also, in reading the reviews of Passage d'enfer, it seems that it is one of those fragrances that can be almost COMPLETELY different dependent on the nose of the wearer. Some people get lily, some get myrrh, some get something else altogether (I get a reminiscence of my grandmother cooking spicy sausage).

    So, please post when you've had a chance to finish trying them out.

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