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  1. #1

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    Default Foundation problem

    I used to apply foundation to cover wrinkles. It makes my skin flawless and of uniform coloration but somehow wrinkles seem even more profound. Do I do anything wrong or what´s the problem?

    Thanks for recs.

  2. #2
    musse's Avatar
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    Default Re: Foundation problem

    I have the same problem coming with age (I`m 51), especially around the eye area. I don`t really have any good advice, but for myself I`ve found out that applying only a very, very thin layer helps. Another option that works for me is to blend the foundation with some moisturizer, to use for the "wrinkled" areas.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Foundation problem

    Unfortunately, makeup, whatever the type, will sit in wrinkles. The thicker it is or the drier it is, the more likely it is to settle.

    The trick, as mentioned, is to apply it thinly. But a wrinkle is a wrinkle and isn't going to disappear completely. Applying too thickly, however, just exaggerates the problem. This is why "mature" women have some difficulty with mineral makeup. Also be careful with concealer. A thinner one is much better. The Vincent Longo one isn't too bad, but it runs light so even someone fair-skinned might select the medium shade.

    I haven't tried it, but I think I read about a product that fills in or plumps up lines. I think it was Clarins, yet I cannot seem to find it on their site.

    You might also trying something like YSL Touche Eclat (or a cheaper competitor) to reflect light away from the problem area.

    Perhaps the greatest thing for the problem is hydration, both from water intake and also from keeping the delicate eye area from drying out. I don't believe in eye-specific creams and find that certain of my regular face creams work perfectly well, but you might want to investigate one of the special eye creams. I swear by Guerlain products and can highly recommend any product in the AGUA SERUM line.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Foundation problem

    Although I agree - people tend not to need as much foundation as they use and that you need to prep your skin before applying the foundation, I would differ on the method. Here's how to get a natural, flawless look with minimal creasing.

    Prep your skin i
    Francios Nars is a leader in this area and invented the philosophy that 50% of good make-up is good skin. If you look after your skin and keep it well hydrated, your make-up will go on smoother (plus you will see a lessening in the appearance of fine lines caused by dehydration AND you will look more radient). This means in addition to watching what you eat (less caffene, more water, better nutrition, loads of sleep) you need to get into a good cleanse, tone (alcohol free please) and moisturisation regime going in the morning and at night, using the products which are right for you. Plus once - twice a week I use a face treatment mask to address any skin concerns I might have. Remember, it takes about a month for your skin to be be renewed so you have to stick with your regime but you will see results.

    Prep your skin ii
    Here's how I prep my skin to apply make-up. The aforementioned cleanse, tone, moisturise. If your skin is normal, normal - dry, or dry then use a moisturising cream (has a thicker texture), rather than a lotion. This will give you a nice healthy finish to your look. Apply eye cream to the orbital area (the bony bit you can feel under your eye) only. You don't need to put cream up to the eye lash area as your skin will pick up as much as it needs as you blink. Don't put any on your eye lid eather. A blob the size of a grain of rice is plenty for each eye. Dab this on the orbital area using your ring finger, using a a gentle tapping motion from the outside to the inside to help with drainage of toxins (to lessen the appearance of dark circles). Sweep any left over cream on to your brows to make them look nicely groomed.

    If you tend to puffyness in the eye area, keep your eye cream in the fridge. I would strongly advise against using the same creams for your eye as you use on your face. The skin is very thin and delicate under the eye and face creams are too rich and as a result you will get a bumpy appearance to the skin under the eye.

    Next, apply make-up primer to your face if you have one (or want to try one). They're worth a go if you've never tried them before as they will make your make-up last longer and these days can have additional benefits for your skin. If you do decide to buy one, I would recommend a silicone free formula as they are a little kinder to the skin. If you don't have a make-up primer then naturally, skip this bit.

    If you have a groove or fine lines extending from the side of your nose to the outer corners of your mouth (as most of us smily people do) then here's a good trick. Take your eye cream and put a blob the size of a grain of rice on each ring finger again. Dab this along said area and leave to soak in. We'll come back to this area in a minute. Next to the foundation.

    Foundation
    Most people tend to use liquid so I'll concentrate on this. First make sure you have a good colour match. If your foundation does not have a pump on it then dip a cotton bud/q-tip into the bottle and swab it onto the palm of your hand so you have a little blob there. Otherwise just dispense a pump. Next, pick a little of the colour up from your hand using the tips of your index & middle finger. Blot this colour a little on the fleshy part at the side of your hand and begin to apply whats left on your fingers onto your nose. You want to push the colour into your skin using short strokes, picking up more colour only when you have blended what you have on your fingers - it looks more natural this way. Extend the colour onto your cheeks and anywhere else you have a difference in colouration (such as on your chin). You're aiming to apply in such a way that by the time you get to the outside of your face, you're hardly applying anything at all. You need not apply the foundation everywhere on your face.

    If, but only if you're using a matt (oil free) formulation then put a little foundation on your eyelids as well (makes a good pre-base for eyeshadow). Basically what you're doing here is evening out the skin tone on your face not creating a mask, so only apply where necessary. Build up colour where required, avoiding the eyebrows.

    Concealer
    You will have bits, as we all do, that need concealer. Make sure you have one that's the right tone for you and if you have a dark under eye area one that's the right tone but a bit more yellowy looking. I tend to prefer concealers with a slightly thicker texture as these are more adaptable and can hide a multitude of sins. If you have a concealer brush (a good investment) then here's your chance to let it shine. The key to getting a good coverage with concealer is to slowly build the colour up by applying small amounts with the concealer brush or your fingers. Take a small amount of the concealer that's the right tone for you (on to your concealer brush or fingers) and begin to apply to the areas that could do with a bit more help. For most people this tends to be on the chin and around the nose. Remember that smile line we put the eye cream on? Well put a little on this too. It bounces the light and lessens the appearance of the lines we've just plumped out. Use your fingers to blend the concealer in everywhere you have just applied it - warming the product in this way will help it bind to your skin.

    Before you apply anything to your eye area let's first stop and have a look at it. As you just did with your face, think which bits actually need to be worked on - remember we are matching the tone and colour to enhance your beauty, not hide it. Most people find the skin tone on the outer corner of the underneath of their eye (the side nearest your ears, under your lashes) is already perfect but need to apply a little concealer to the inner corner of the eye (at the side of the nose & underneath the lash line) to match the colour up to that perfect outside. If, after looking at your eye, you feel that you have a little darkness to the under eye area, then use your slightly more yellowy version of the concealer in these areas to cancel the darkness out. When working on the eye area (applying or blending product) always switch to using your ring finger, the finger that has the lightest touch. When you're happy with the result sweep a little of the perfect match (non-yellowy) concealer over the lid of the eye to create a perfect base for eyeshadow and a little at the very outside edge where your upper and lower set of eyelashes meet.

    The last concealer job to do is to cover any little spots or pimples if you have any. If you do this beforehand, you could make them spread so always leave this job until last. They don't take long at all to do. Just get a little of your standard concealer and apply over & slightly to the sides of the spot/pimple area. You want to apply enough concealer for the look of redness to go. Now pat with your finger at the outside edges only to blend flawlessly into your skin. Put your concealer brush aside for cleaning or wash your hands, so's not to spread any infection. You can also use this technique to conver any little thread veins you might have.

    Powder
    So now you've greated the perfect base, you want it to last and not slip into any lines. Although the use of powder has somewhat fallen out of fashion our grandmothers did know a thing or two about the benefits of powder. Not only will powder make your skin look very soft and finely textured by lessening the appearance of your pores, powder will also set your make-up. Ever had a make-over at a counter before and not had powder used? (I'm gasping at this point if any of you say yes, lol). Before even going near that powder puff however, you need to make one last check of your face. Remember how when you applied your concealer you warmed it with your fingers to blend it on your skin? Well, since then, it will have warmed on your face even more and be starting to settle into any fine lines. Fear not - this is completly normal. When I have spoken to people that complain about make-up slipping & creasing I tend to find they skip the powder part and so leave their make-up application the point where creasing is highly probable.

    ...So what you want to do before powdering is have a quick check of everywhere you put that concealer and quickly and gently smooth it out again (particularly check your under eye, the side your eye, your eye lid and in the smile crease between your nose and your mouth). If you find smoothing your under eye a bit of a nusience, look up when you fo it - this action will make the skin naturally flatten. This step only takes 30 seconds to do but if you skip it you'll set the creases, rather than the natural smooth look you've just created. So to the powder - which one loose? pressed? what colour? If it's your first powder purchase then always go for a loose powder over a pressed powder as the result will always be finer. Keep pressed powder in your handbag for midday, glamour-puss, top-ups only. Pick a matt colour that matches the same tone as your skin to begin with too - save the sparkly versions for after you've mastered the matt versions. And so to apply.

    Grab a clean powder puff, or if you've not got one, one of those disks of cotton wool that have been pressed for use on the face and pick a little product up. You only need an amount the size of a small pea to do the whole of your face so don't go crazy and knock off any excess. Apply a fine layer of powder all over your face using a pressing and rolling motion, including on the under eye area and eye lid. (you'll soon work out the right amount to pick as if you've got too much on the puff as it'll look like you're coating your face in something, a fine covering of powder will not give this effect). When you've done your whole face then take your powder brush (another good investment) and gently brush your face all over to remove any excess. Your base is now set and you're ready to add a little colour!

    Oh you beautiful thing you.


    A note on Touch Eclait. Much as I love this product I think this is best reserved to be used in addition to concealer, rather than instead of as it contains no pigment in itself really, and therefore does not give coverage, just reflects the light. Hence, if you use it on on it's own on a dark under eye area (one that says I've been up all night partying), the area will look brighter, but it will get a slightly odd white/grey palour to it too. I tend to use a concealer to correct small areas on my face (after foundation) more than anything and reserve Touch Eclait to add a subtle highlight instead. Try putting a little on the cupids bow on your lip - it will look like it's been spotlit. Also put a little bit on your cheekbones, browbones and the inner corner of the eye for a instant pick-me up. Plus, try adding a tiny dab after the concealer on that smile line between your nose and mouth, but before powder. Experiment. Have fun.

    Hope this helps. I've written this all in a bit of rush so if something doesn't make sense, apologies & just give me a shout.

  5. #5

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    Default Re: Foundation problem

    Dear bowky, thanks much for absolutely profound step-by-step description. I am going to print it and follow it next time when I apply foundation.

  6. #6

    Smile Re: Foundation problem

    Pleasure hon. Let me know how you go on...

  7. #7

    Default Re: Foundation problem

    Really good detailed description. Love my foundation (chantecaille) but have never worn powder, but I just might after reading that!
    thanks

  8. #8
    beachroses's Avatar
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    Default Re: Foundation problem

    I have very dry skin and found (using a free sample) that Estee Lauder's Hydra Complete Moisture Gel for normal/combo skin gives a very smooth and hydrating finish around my eyes to apply concealer without it caking in the lines. I use it religiously now, my results were so good. It's not an antiaging product, I just use it as an eye makeup primer. It's good if you're young and want a lightweight moisturizer, too.

  9. #9
    sameasalways's Avatar
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    Default Re: Foundation problem

    Defintely a good makeup primer like Nars or something. Go to drugstore.com and you can read reviews on them (a part of beauty.com). Also, lighter is better. If you have a heavy foundation, use a sponge, wet it, squish it out, and then use it to apply foundation. Powder has a tendency to sit in the lines and highlight them. If you HAVE to apply powder, then once again a light touch w/a very clean brush. Also, if it still looks like you have spackled it on despite all this, you can take a washcloth w/cool water, wet it, wring it out, and LIGHTLY pat the areas of your face where the powder has gone into wrinkles. Sometimes, its better to just plain avoid the whole area altogether w/foundation. Using the sponge, you can you dab foundation onto unbalanced areas of the skin (unbalanced in terms of color), and blend toward the area of dryness/wrinkles. Always using a good primer regardless.
    Always remember you are unique; just like everyone else.

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