Tauer Orris and comparable Iris based scents

[Scentsibility]

I splurged for Tauer Orris today. I've been on the fence about it for a while. In fact, I offered zztopp my sample today because I just KNEW that I would never spend that ridiculous amount of money ($95/30ml ) on it.

But then I sampled it again... I felt the hook set in my jaw, and the sense of being reeled, no, dragged in... I waited all day for the drydown, just looking for an excuse to write it off... Finding none, I scrambled for my wallet to pick up one of the last four remaining bottles on Luckyscent...

So now that I have committed to the purchase, are there other similar (cheaper!) alternatives that are comparable? I got a good six hours out of the tiny drop from my sample. I can only imagine what 3 good blasts from a full bottle might do!

This is my first full bottle Iris OR floral scent, and I wouldn't exactly call it feminine, but it is most assuredly floral - dark and sensual floral in the vein of VdR. Do any of you own and wear Iris based scents, and how do they compare? I ordered a sample of Different Company's Bois D'Iris along with the Tauer.

I have no buyer's remorse, but perhaps a twinge of buyer's guilt for not doing my homework before such an extravagant purchase. So, please tell me that it's the best thing since sliced bread, and worth every cent I paid!

Paul

[paintrman]

Paul, it is a wonderful fragrance. I was one of the very lucky and got a sample of it from Andy last year for free. I even did a review of it for Marina's blog which you can find here:

http://perfumesmellinthings.blogspot...s-by-andy.html

Andy was very helpful with the list of ingredients. It isn't my favorite Tauer but it is fantastic. If you are looking for a wonderful iris scent then look no further that Hiris by Hermes, which was created by Olivia Jacobetti.

Notes include:

Iris, neroli, carrots, coriander, hay, rose, ambrette seeds, almond wood, cedar, honey, and vanilla

[robyogi]

Honestly, I can't think of any iris-based scents that smell the same. Tauer's was decidedly more floral and darker than the others I have tested. Maybe it's the agarwood, maybe it's his use of birch tar, but something about the iris in Orris seemed more like violets than iris. When I think of iris, I think of a cold, steeley, dusty, almost otherworldly scent; or the classy, velvety effect it adds to older Carons and Guerlains, when it is blended in more deeply. In Tauer's scent, it's warm and sensual. Look at it this way, you could have spent more on Amouage, Profumum, or Clive Christian...

[ifconfig]

No one has mentioned the superb Dior Homme? Come on! :-)

[leopoldo]

Dior Homme smells radically different from Orris, where the iris is held in check by elements which soften and sweeten it - cocoa for example. Hiris is a good example of a classic iris fragrance, but the masterpiece is probably Iris Silver Mist - chilly, ethereal, root-like. The closest example (in feel at least) to Orris is probably Parfumerie Generale's Iris Taizo, but they are by no means smellalikes: Orris is more floral and rounder (almost fruity in its richness), IT much drier and earthy. My favourite iris is Divine's l'Homme de Coeur - an exceptionally subtle and sophisticated use of the note.

[shifts]

No one has mentioned the superb Dior Homme? Come on! :-)

Well, it has absolutely nothing to do with Andy Tauer's Orris, apart from sharing a basenote. I've never tried anything like it.

[narcus]

Iris Nobile
by Acqua di Parma

Innocently beautiful, more the flower than its root, a little sweeter than Orris, and my favorite Iris. It must have been because Acqua di Parma, Colonia Assoluta was on display everywhere why Iris Nobile entered the scene almost unnoticed. I find it far superior to Colonia/ Assoluta. Maybe Orris lasts longer. It may also be easier to pull for a man.

[Magnifiscent]

I've not had the chance to try any Tauer juice but I'm a great iris fan. My everytime's fav is still Hermes Hiris, close to perfection. Other good choices are for sure No. 19, L'homme de Coeur, Iris Silver Mist, Dior Homme and SMN Città di Kyoto.
I personally find Bois d'Iris to be nice, but I'd have preferred it to have less vetiver and more iris: too much wood for my taste. Also AdP Iris Nobile is nicely crafted but, mixing also violets etc. tends too much on the feminine floral bunch effect rathern than a pure iris, like iris poudre but more conservative ladylike, less aldehydic and androginous.

[Johnny_Ludlow]

Iris Nobile is very beautiful iris scent indeed, kind of similar with another italian, Santa Maria Novella's Iris. I find these to be too feminine for me to wear, I'm afraid. When it comes to - in my opinion - masculine Iris scents, L'Homme de Coeur is my absolute favourite, it might even be my favourite fragrance, period!
Dior Homme is not an iris scent in my books, the initial blast of iris is gone after few minutes, atleast on me. Hiris is very nice, but leaves me cold for some reason. Bois d'Iris has too sweet drydown for my tastes; it vaguely reminds me of Bois Farine, it's not even close as cloying, but has similar vibe to it (don't quote me on this). I can't put my finger on it.

Citta di Kyoto impressed me very much! I've only tried it two times, so I'm looking for a sample or decant, not yet ready to go for it, even though I'd love to; the bottle is that gorgeous!

[Scentsibility]

Tauer's was decidedly more floral and darker than the others I have tested....

In Tauer's scent, it's warm and sensual. Look at it this way, you could have spent more on Amouage, Profumum, or Clive Christian...

Those were my thoughts exactly - warm, dark, and sensual... So would you call it an anti-iris fragrance? That is, it uses the note, even highlights and worships it, but takes it in an opposite direction than what one would normally expect.

That sounds like Andy for sure! (That, and I have always wondered if Tauer was German for "TAR" )

The Profumum line can be had for about 35% less than Tauer Orris (on a per ml basis) since Orris is only sold in a tiny 30ml bottle. The exclusivity and rarity of a limited release like Orris appeals to me though. I won't be smelling this one on anyone else, and I do love it, so the cost is a moot point (within reason, of course).

P

[Scentsibility]

Alright, who sucked up all of the ORRIS?

Luckyscent had four bottles left when I placed my order yesterday.
Those same four bottles were in stock a week or so ago.

So I posted this thread and hyped it a bit, and now they are GONE!
That's right, completely sold out. It doesn't even show up on Andy's website anymore...

My bottle is coming so I really don't care , but how much do you want to bet that you start seeing Orris on Ebay for $5-$10 per ml in the near future?

I'll be reserving this one for special occasions, and wearing it SPARINGLY!
It's going to have to last a lifetime...

Paul

[JaimeB]

Try Hermès Hiris. It's a different take on iris; the iris in it is definitely present (probably the orris root they used was extra good), but the scent is not totally linear, and the complexity of it may give you a pleasant surprsie!

[ComDiva]

Those were my thoughts exactly - warm, dark, and sensual... So would you call it an anti-iris fragrance? That is, it uses the note, even highlights and worships it, but takes it in an opposite direction than what one would normally expect.

P

Well spoken, Paul!

I only have a tiny sample vial of Tauer's Orris, and agree that it's dark and almost anti-iris -- I certainly found it more root than flower. Still, fantastic. I'm fairly new to this whole thing, but have to say I think Andy Tauer is a master (Yes, price hikes notwithstanding).

Another great iris-based possibility not yet mentioned here is Ormande Jayne's Orris Noir, which I adore, and think would work very well on a man. On me it tends to stay close to the skin, so liberal application for higher sillage is needed. And it actually manages to get creamy (without getting sweet) on the drydown. A much softer iris scent, more focus on the blossom than the root, but one I'd recommend trying!

Notes for Orris Noir: Davana, Pink pepper, Cardamom, Iris, Coriander seed, Bergamot, Sambac absolut, Pimento berries, Bay cinnamon, Incense, Myrrh, Patchouli, Chinese Cedar, Saffron, Civet.

I got a sample by e-mailing the Ormande Jayne store in London (only place they sell, but they DO mail worldwide). Was very impressed with the packaging, too. I just got a sample, and they did it up with black grosgrain ribbon and the whole nine yards.

[robyogi]

Those were my thoughts exactly - warm, dark, and sensual... So would you call it an anti-iris fragrance? That is, it uses the note, even highlights and worships it, but takes it in an opposite direction than what one would normally expect.

That sounds like Andy for sure! (That, and I have always wondered if Tauer was German for "TAR" )

The Profumum line can be had for about 35% less than Tauer Orris (on a per ml basis) since Orris is only sold in a tiny 30ml bottle. The exclusivity and rarity of a limited release like Orris appeals to me though. I won't be smelling this one on anyone else, and I do love it, so the cost is a moot point (within reason, of course).

P

That's certainly how I would characterize his use of iris in this scent. It's sensual, and even sexy, compared to its usually cold and chilly effect. It also smells a lot like violets to me, and if I did not know this was an iris scent, I would have guessed it was a violet scent. He highlights different facets of the note than others seem to do.

With the comparison to Profumum, et al, I was thinking absolute dollar cost, but you're right, on a per mil basis, Orris is more. Still, even per mil can be deceptive; I usually think of cost as a per wearing cost, so that something that requires 5 sprays to be effective and last actually costs 5 times more per wearing than something that requires 1 spray to do the same.

Sorry for the aside...congrats on your purchase, glad to hear you got the bottle before they disappeared. BTW, that seems to happen a lot at Lucky Scent. It happened also with Tauer's L'Air; when folks here noted the bottling and price changes, the older, larger bottles disappeared in a flash. Again, congrats and enjoy!

[Scentsibility]

BTW, that seems to happen a lot at Lucky Scent. It happened also with Tauer's L'Air; when folks here noted the bottling and price changes, the older, larger bottles disappeared in a flash. Again, congrats and enjoy!

Heh, I was one of the lucky ones in that chaos as well - scored a 100ml for the old price. I guess I'm just lucky with Luckyscent! I have ordered two Tauers from them now (got my Orris sample with LDDM) and have been very pleased with them. I have noticed that they occasionally raise their prices without notice, rhyme, or reason, but I have attributed it to the falling dollar vs. the euro...

Thanks for all of the great posts. If I ever get the urge to try another iris, I have quite a list from which to choose!

Paul

[ifconfig]

As I posted in the infamous thread, I respect the technical achievement of Tauer {spit!} in as much proportion as I disrespect his business methods. If L'Air is anything to go by, his others should be quite good as well. Orris does sound pretty good, although I will most certainly not be spending my money on it.

By the way, Dior Homme's Iris lasts almost 12 hours on me.

[zztopp]

You might want to check out Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist (ISM). Much like what Vetiver Extraordinaire did for vetiver, ISM accentuates a high quality iris note and takes it through subtle transformations (sweet -> earthy/rooty -> slightly powdery).

I dont consider Dior Homme a serious iris fragrance (really, its cocoa and amber strangling an iris note to death). Dont be put off by ISM because of Serge Lutens reputation for oriental bombs; this ones by the master perfumer Maurice Roucel, not the funky duo of Lutens-Sheldrake. Unfortunately its in the "exclusive" range, and not readily available in america.

[rtamara41]

I am finally testing the sample of Tauer Orris (thank you, Paul) and would like to post some thoughts. My initial impression was that of wetness, almost a musty wetness, like being in the attic in the rain with the windows open and reading an old favorite book. You can smell the wet of the earth as the rain pounds down and feel the damp in the air. Not disagreeable, but not what I expected.

Nearly an hour later, the sillage is quite strong and has shifted to that of burning wood or incense. What comes to mind is a mild version of Norma Kamali's incense. If there are flowers in this, maybe it is violets with charred petals. Or crushed blue flowers mixed with sage that somebody set on fire.

I could see using this for clearing the energy of uninvited ghosts. Or clearing my head of unwanted memories. Or clearing my attic for a remodeling project which is exactly what I will be doing today!

Am I hooked, smitten or in love? Not yet, not immediately. Could this fragrance grow on me? I suspect so. I do think however, as a shared fragrance, I would place this more on the masculine side. It makes a strong statement. It has a strong presence. Definitely worth sampling.

[rtamara41]

Paul may have sent me on a tangent of iris , who knows? But I am sampling this beauty, L'eau d'Italie's Sienne l'Hiver and find that it is a wet earthy iris intermingled with incense, giving one the impression of an outdoors church. Thought I would add it to this thread. It is simply wonderful, and has a less assertive sillage than Tauer's Orris, as well as a bit more of a soothing personality. I am adding it to my flower week lineup.
This is the description and notes from aedes. com:

"The Gothic elegance of Siena on a cold winter day is the inspiration for Sienne L'Hiver. The composition blends the scents of roasted chestnuts, incense from churches decorated for Christmas, and frost touched soil. The delicate verdancy of the top notes of violet leaf and geranium gives way to the alluring earthiness of iris. A hint of black olive and white truffle in the heart alludes to the region's edible treasures. The whispers of smoke in the woody base lend the same mystery to the composition that pervades the paintings of Sienese masters."

[zztopp]

I will just say it again - Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist is everything an iris scent can be. In my opinion, there is no better, more comprehensive and varied iris fragrance on earth. It encompasses all kinds of iris accords with subtle transparency and slick perfume notes flow. I used to be a fan of MPG Iris Bleu Gris, but I admit that Iris Silver Mist is clearly superior.

[Scentsibility]

WOW! I just tried Citta di Kyoto... Blew my mind!
It is a verrry suitable substitute for Tauer Orris (currently packed for my move), and will be my SOTD tomorrow!

Paul

[MarkDavid]

I found Tauer's Orris extremely intriguing but completely unwearable. I could sit and smell it for hours. But I wouldn't want to smell LIKE it. But thats me for ya.

Iris Silver Mist and Hiris are my absolute favorites and like ZZ, I think ISM is the perfect Iris - Hiris for me is a cold Iris that is still very warm and comforting to me which I think is rather absurd and entirely amazing and wonderful.

Dior Homme on me is a nightmare. I don't enjoy it one bit and it lasts all of 12 minutes.

[rtamara41]

Paul, BABY, and any other Iris based scent LOVERS!!! You gotta try Midnight Violet from Ava Luxe...oh dear god...iris and violets in wet earth....WONDERFUL...good sillage and good longevity...gender flexible

Notes:
Violet
Blue iris
Orris
Earth
Black hemlock
Galbanum
Pink pepper
Cinnamon
Cedar
Sandalwood
Incense
Wood balsam
Moss
Civet
Cashmere musk

[mikeperez23]

I must say that after having tried MANY other iris scents, Orris is so different and unique and really doesn't smell like anything else in this whole wide world. I am wearing it as I type this and it is making me smile...it smells so lovely.

[kess]

OMG, when I first saw the thread I did not realize it was from 2007 and thought that Orris was somehow available at Luckyscent. You should not do this to us, man! :-)

[gupts]

OMG, when I first saw the thread I did not realize it was from 2007 and thought that Orris was somehow available at Luckyscent. You should not do this to us, man! :-)

You just missed a bottle on ebay that went for US$122......

[kess]

You just missed a bottle on ebay that went for US$122......

Yes, I saw it -- but after the fact. and I don't think I'd have sprung for it as I've never sampled it -- my knowledge of it was mostly from the blogs and I knew how elusive it was and no longer available etc. But it was interesting that I tried almost all (if not all) other iris scents that were mentioned.

[Bigsly]

Well, I've tried Dior Homme and Hiris, and I still prefer FUBU Plush for men by far. For what's it's selling for at the moment, the orris lover needs to grab a bottle before they become scarce and expensive.